Ruskie Has Joined HO8

[NordmanMg]

Roger, That's looks new

[auaq]

I saw something kinda nice in a post here but I can't remember where right now where the member with his car on the lift tented or hung a tarp loosely under the car with bungees. The tarp slanted to the rear or maybe out of the door - that way he could spray the undercarriage down and then wash, even pressure wash with the drainage directed to the door or where ever. I could definitely do this at my garage to was the undercarriage.

But I like clean as well....




Found the tenting.....

Hmm ... this gives me an idea. Brb. Need to talk to Redshift to borrow his lift.

[RuskiE39]

Update: Waited for the car to cool down and went for a drive... idles smooth as butter, no more shaking roughness or surging/dying.

However, this got me researching the intake manifold gaskets and doing the valley pan and associates gaskets while in there... found a kit for $275 (OEM/OE parts) so I think that is going to be up next on my list.

[dannyzabolotny]

Update: Waited for the car to cool down and went for a drive... idles smooth as butter, no more shaking roughness or surging/dying.

However, this got me researching the intake manifold gaskets and doing the valley pan and associates gaskets while in there... found a kit for $275 (OEM/OE parts) so I think that is going to be up next on my list.

While you have the intake manifold off it's a good idea to check on the CCV and the heater hoses by the firewall— it's a heck of a lot easier to access them with the manifold off.

[JPO805]

I'd have to agree with Danny . When I had the manifold off I swapped the torx bolts on the CCV to hex to make it easier to remove in the future when it needs to be replaced. I had to do the heater hose that goes from the water accumulator to the auxiliary water pump and it was a pain with the manifold on. I can't image the heater hoses and that hose being too expensive so I'd recommend replacing those with the manifold off.

[RuskiE39]

The kit comes with EVERYTHING. literally every Gasket, o-ring, is going to be replaced and every bolt cleaned... everything that is accessible with the intake manifold will be taken care of.



Feel free to let me know if you can think of anything that is missing. I still have my 530 so if I end up needing more parts there's no rush for me to order them.

[Mannyf540]

The kit comes with EVERYTHING. literally every Gasket, o-ring, is going to be replaced and every bolt cleaned... everything that is accessible with the intake manifold will be taken care of.

Feel free to let me know if you can think of anything that is missing. I still have my 530 so if I end up needing more parts there's no rush for me to order them.

Might as well do the water pump since you'll be in there.

[JPO805]

The kit comes with EVERYTHING. literally every Gasket, o-ring, is going to be replaced and every bolt cleaned... everything that is accessible with the intake manifold will be taken care of.

Feel free to let me know if you can think of anything that is missing. I still have my 530 so if I end up needing more parts there's no rush for me to order them.

I'd recommend all of the heater hoses. Here are the part numbers from RealOEM - 64218391005, 64218391017, 64218367929, and 64218367929.

These are all the hoses from the heater core to the water accumulator at the rear of the engine, and the hoses from the auxiliary water pump to the water accumulator and heater core. It's all aged rubber that could go at anytime, and is a pain to do with the intake manifold in the way.

Here's a photo of the hoses for reference. You can't see the auxiliary water pump in this photo but you can see the heater hoses.

[Mannyf540]

I'd recommend all of the heater hoses. Here are the part numbers from RealOEM - 64218391005, 64218391017, 64218367929, and 64218367929.

These are all the hoses from the heater core to the water accumulator at the rear of the engine, and the hoses from the auxiliary water pump to the water accumulator and heater core. It's all aged rubber that could go at anytime, and is a pain to do with the intake manifold in the way.

Here's a photo of the hoses for reference. You can't see the auxiliary water pump in this photo but you can see the heater hoses.

+1
You.might consider the water accumulator gasket additionally.

[cnsorial]

These "while you're in there" suggestions can get ya in trouble sometimes haha. Just pull the motor and do a full rebuild lol.


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[RuskiE39]

Happened again today... disconnected the battery to make some adjustments to the steering wheel alignment, and after putting everything back together and turning the car on it almost immediately died on me and therefore after was hard to keep running unless gas was given. Ran test no. 9 to check voltage and it was at 13.6 V. Any ideas?

[NordmanMg]

Check throttle body connector, probably soaked in oil,
...
you might have a dying O2's too

[Flounderasu]

What is the overnight v on the battery? What is the Voltage running? What is the voltage at the terminals under hood when running? What is the voltage overnight, at the terminals? I think you see where I'm going with this...

As for your list - rear accumulator gasket and also rear hoses. Check the SJP hose too (preformed kinked hose that runs from CCV to brake booster). .....I would also do the coolant hoses out of the rear accumulator.

I'm not sure what method you are going to do for the VP job - I lifted the injectors out of the intake - if you do that have new o-rings for the injectors....I also left my waterpump in place and took out the return pipes via rear accumulator.

*edit* Oh and I would replace the CCV cover with some hex bolts. The TB ones aren't so bad and you can leave those be if you want or you can just swap all of it out if you ever swap everything over for with the M60 manifold (which I honestly do not like - I live in the lower RPM range since my daily commute is like 2 miles and it really thrives above 3-3200).

Might as well put in the mechanical 88C t-stat too - grab it from amazon uk for a little less than another board member was selling them for on here - didn't want to bust his bubble but they are available on amazon-uk. I grabbed an actual BMW one when my order kept getting delayed via Amazon uk and grabbed the BMW one from Brian; paid a bit more but whatever.

[geargrinder]

These "while you're in there" suggestions can get ya in trouble sometimes haha. Just pull the motor and do a full rebuild lol.

Ha ha this.

+1
You.might consider the water accumulator gasket additionally.

Yeah I'm mixed on that. Lotta guys say don't touch it if it's not a problem and it'll often last 250k.

Happened again today... disconnected the battery to make some adjustments to the steering wheel alignment, and after putting everything back together and turning the car on it almost immediately died on me and therefore after was hard to keep running unless gas was given. Ran test no. 9 to check voltage and it was at 13.6 V. Any ideas?

Codes codes codes - what do they tell you...

But we are still guessing vac leak I think as first option.

[dannyzabolotny]

I wouldn't touch the rear accumulator gaskets... they're quite difficult to maneuver into place. If they're not leaking I would leave them alone, I've never really seen them fail even on super high mileage cars.

[RuskiE39]

Ha ha this.



Yeah I'm mixed on that. Lotta guys say don't touch it if it's not a problem and it'll often last 250k.



Codes codes codes - what do they tell you...

But we are still guessing vac leak I think as first option.

Scanned it right after, no codes or pending codes. Drives fine otherwise, now that the battery has "adjusted".

[nikatkimber]

Mine is acting very similar. Anytime the battery is disconnected long enough to reset the computer, it won't idle for a while after reconnecting and starting.

I know I have an intake vacuum leak; I can hear the hissing if I jab the throttle. I have all the gaskets, just haven't had the time to install. I plan on installing them this weekend. I'll let you know if that helps my situation.

[RuskiE39]

Mine is acting very similar. Anytime the battery is disconnected long enough to reset the computer, it won't idle for a while after reconnecting and starting.

I know I have an intake vacuum leak; I can hear the hissing if I jab the throttle. I have all the gaskets, just haven't had the time to install. I plan on installing them this weekend. I'll let you know if that helps my situation.

Awesome, definitely let me know.

[RuskiE39]

Going to be a fun weekend.

[Mannyf540]

The self car washes around here have a button for 'engine wash', I like the idea of doing it from underneath, sort of like a reach around, lol.

Wow Jim, just wow. You and GG Have been naughty!!

[Mannyf540]

Going to be a fun weekend.

Oh and commorad, I leave this here for you!!

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-and-reservoir

Worked for me, simple and nice write up. In case or eventually at this vintage you'll have to do them eventually

[RuskiE39]

She's up and running nice and smooth! Hopefully no more oil leaks in my garage and driveway Here are some fun pics along the way:





the old Gasket was so hard I could snap it in half like a twig.

[philly98540]

Nice work Ruskie! Hopefully leak free now. It seems that the bulk of time used on these repairs is cleaning everything.

[auaq]

The inside of the engine looks clean.

[Mannyf540]

She's up and running nice and smooth! Hopefully no more oil leaks in my garage and driveway Here are some fun pics along the way:

the old Gasket was so hard I could snap it in half like a twig.

How long was the job start to finish. I've been contemplating doing mine....