E36 Supercharger PCV Setup

[jskicet]

I just went with the size hose that would fit the fittings that came with it. If i remember correctly you made need pick up a hose or two that steps down (Tapered ) from the size coming from the V/c then also back up to the intake. I just went to Oreilly's and looked at what they had on the wall and cut it to fit. You can also get larger fittings for the can. Maybe at home depot or something. I'm sure the ideal way is to have the same size hose the whole way. It's been a while since I added it. I can look tomorrow if needed.

[maharaj1]

Yea the fittings that came with the can are 1/2" and according to an earlier post from cpalella the ID of the valve cover port is around 7/8". Going to get a hose or fitting that will fit tightly over the valve cover and then try and get corresponding fittings for the catch can. Would like to plumb it with a single size hose if possible. I'm hoping that my nearby hydraulic supply company can get me some fittings in black, the red and blue fittings look nice on certain applications but I don't think they'd mesh well under my hood.

[maharaj1]

Went to my local hydraulic supply this morning. They are going to make me a -10AN fitting that goes into the valve cover then I am probably going to go with a 5/8" hose to plumb it. I feel like 1/2" might be a little to small and want to make sure that I have no restrictions.

[jskicet]

Bigger the better

[maharaj1]

Ended up going with the 1/2" primarily due to clearance and fitment issues. Got most of it buttoned up this evening. Might need to get a slightly longer length of hose for the catch can to the supercharger inlet and I want to ensure that the silicone I put on the valve cover fitting is fully cured.

Update: Got the catch can put in but I am still having a small problem with oil bubbling up from the dipstick tube. If I remove the oil filler cap it is perfectly fine. Once I put the cap back on and seal it oil starts to bubble. If I pull the dipstick out of the tube oil starts coming up the tube. Any ideas on what could be causing this.

[jskicet]

In the first thread you said that you have a check valve in the vacuum line going to the supercharger. Did you remove the check valve when you installed the catch can?

- - - Updated - - -

Also are you still running a factory oil separator? I don't recall what year of car/engine you are running is why I ask.

[maharaj1]

I misspoke when I said it was a check valve. It was basically a reducer similar to what was used on the stock intake elbow, not the ICV hose but the breather hose that routes back to the valve cover on M/S50 engines. To answer your question yes I removed it. Straight shot from the valve cover to the catch can then straight shot from the catch can to the supercharger inlet.

To answer your second question no I am not running a factory oil separator. I am running an OBDI converted M52 with the M50 intake manifold and throttle body. Before I was FI all I had in place was the factory breather valve pictured in my initial post and the reducer that attached between that hose and the intake elbow.

I spent most of my evening with this car yesterday, reading other peoples FI threads etc. I disconnected the charge pipe, the breather hose from the valve cover, and the MAF so the car would run. Started it up and put my finger over the valve cover breather and I still had the oil bubbling from the dipstick tube. I know there is going to be some crankcase pressure regardless but I don't think it is supposed to be this much. I don't recall this being an issue before I went FI nor do I think I have excessively worn rings or damaged cylinder linings because the engine was rebuilt several thousand miles ago and runs extremely well. After taking a break from it and re-approaching it with a fresh mind I think I may need to up the size of my breather hoses for the catch can as they are not sufficiently venting and causing excess pressure to build in the crankcase. I plan on doing a leak-down test tomorrow just for peace of mind.

On a slightly unrelated note I read about some people running a check valve on the vacuum line that goes to the charcoal canister and FPR. Some say they vent the canister to atmosphere but I'm not sure I want to do that. My canister is in the trunk and my FOR is on the under-body of the car, so what lines are they talking about? I am not sure about how this affects my setup. I didn't read anything about this in the directions I got from ESS but again I want to make sure that I am taking all the necessary precautions to prevent any damage.

[jskicet]

I still have my charcoal canister hooked up. Helps with the raw fuel smell when your tank is venting. You definitely want a check valve in the line going from the switch to the tank, you don't want to pressurize the tank. That system is set up to vent the tank when under vacuum when needed. I have my canister up front being its a 93. I would prefer it in the rear as I still get occasional fuel smell. Now, as for your dipstick tube. I had to use a little over sized oring on my tube for it to seal. I had leakage when using an original new factory oring when boosting. Since bigger oring, no leak. My buddy had the same issue on his FI M3 and the larger oring solved his leak problem too. I'm running the half inch lines to the can with no issues. This car has seen many days on track at Daytona, VIR, Road Atlanta. At Daytona we had 40 minute sessions at full boost. Never skipped a beat nor any leaks.

[maharaj1]

Well a rebuild is in my future. Did a leakdown and compression test yesterday evening and found three cylinder that deviated from the other three cylinders in terms of leakage with cylinder 5 having the highest pressure loss. I did want to build an engine for this car at some point so this is going to be a great opportunity to do so. Looking at doing an M52 stroker engine with M54B30 rotating assembly with the S52 head I already have on this engine. Not sure if I want to deviate from the stock pistons and rods that come on the M54. I do not plan on boosting above 10psi on this setup. Will definitely be doing new rings & bearings. Will also be sending the head off to the machine shop to have it checked while I have it off. Wondering what I should go with in terms of headgasket? I know there are a couple different options when it comes to choosing a headgasket on an FI M/S50/52 engines and was wondering what the consensus is on headgasket and head studs. Also going to go with the 42lb injectors and Porsche MAF so when I put it back together I will be ready for my new tune. Probably going to send the supercharger off to Vortech while everything is off and have them rebuild it as well.

While I have it out I am also going to go with a stronger clutch setup and change up my exhaust as well. Also going to give me a chance to clean up the engine bay. That stupid coating the BMW put on at the factory looks like its melting and it makes me cringe whenever I pop the hood. Not exactly pleased that I have to rebuild it but it does give me a chance to take care of some things that I have been meaning to get done and have planned on doing. Car is still running well, not as well as it should be since I am having the blowby issue but I'm going to take it back off the road after this weekend and hopefully start building the bottom end sometime next week. With the exception of having the head pressure tested and decked I will be doing most of the work myself. I've rebuilt the engine powering this car before but focused more on the top end with things like the valve job, cams, lifters, springs, and things of that nature. I am looking forward to rebuilding it again and learning more about preparing an engine for forced induction. Will probably start another thread for engine build but hopefully this thread will serve as a good reference for someone else who is experiencing similar issues.

Back to my question I was asking before. Where in the system did you install the check valve for the charcoal canister. I was looking at putting it on the hose that goes from the throttle body to the purge valve as opposed to that blue hard line that comes after the purge valve and runs to the canister.

[jskicet]

Wow. I have exactly what your building. 2.8 with M54 bottom end (which is an S52 crank). Bosch 803 with 42b injectors and S52 cams. I run about 9.5 lbs of boost. All parts are OE stock. I worked with BMW for 15 years so I had access to parts cheap. I have over 45k on this motor. Its been boosted from the start. It has a lot of track days on it ( 75 or more) and has never let me down. Stock pistons, head gasket, bolts etc. I did add Raceland Euro headers with Supersprint resonated mid pipe and muffler. 6 speed with a 3.46 diff. Full A/C, cruise and I can easily run with the Pcars at HPDE's. I instruct so we push them hard. You do need some type of cooler to lower the air temps. Been down that road. Even run the stock MZ coupe s54 rad as well but with the stewart w/p. Clutch is from Clutchnet.com. I've had good luck with them. Its a great daily driver. 375 at the wheel is perfect for this car. People always want more but I like reliability so I'm content.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh yea, I'll look tomorrow on the check valve. It's been a few years since I installed it so I don't remember the placement off hand. Oh yea, oil cooler lowers oil temps by over 30 degrees in traffic or on track which keeps your water temps from spiking when you come off track or in Hotlanta traffic. I recommend one.

[maharaj1]

I will certainly be sending you some private messages in the near future. I already have a M52 engine that I am in the process of tearing down. Car was in a collision and the head and accessories are no good but the block looks to be in good shape. Hoping to get it done over the course of the next several weeks.