1994 E34 525i Trans Program Message

[whiskychaser]

The pin numbers are usually stamped in the TCM socket. Worth remembering that you will be looking at a mirror image as you will be testing at the holes in the plug.

[vinceinIL]

Whiskey, thanks for conforming that!

That was a good opportunity to try testing it, though.

Today was a better day, more time and nicer weather. It's pretty easy to figure out which hole is what number. For the smaller pins, I used a small paperclip that fit into the hole better than my probe. The larger holes for the flat pins, I was able to access them with no problem.

Problem is, I was not able to get any readings when testing at the plug, negative black probe at Pin 54 (ground), red positive probe used for the other pins. I had the key out of the ignition, was I supposed to have it on? Did I do something wrong?

Thanks again,

Vince

[whiskychaser]

You don't need the key in the ignition. The TCM socket usually has 55 flat pins on the A4S310R. IIRC, they are numbered 1-19,20-37 and 38-55. Maybe check and confirm the module number?

BTW. For reference, you can find the connector details and TCM pin outs in the diagram for your car here:

http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

[vinceinIL]

Whiskey, as always, thank you for the continued assistance. The connector I've been testIMG_7122.JPGIMG_7123.JPGing is the one in the front of the box (which may not be obvious from the picture). Hopefully the pictures I'm trying to attach will come through. The one that has been taken off is the connector in front. The flat pins are very easy to differentiate. Could I be testing the wrong connector? Somewhere I read or saw something that made me use this connector.

Vince

[whiskychaser]

From the position and the fact that it has 88 pins, I'd suggest that is the DME, not the TCM. The other module is probably the ABS. They have the part number on the side of each module and you can usually read it without removing the module.

If it is not in the e-box, the other location they fitted the TCM is behind the right hand floor speaker. You remove the panel with the speaker in it, remove the insulation behind it and it is tucked up behind the inner and outer skin. It is held in place by 3 bolts but you only need to slacken them off a bit as the holes are key hole shaped. Lift the TCM up and in and it will then come out of the hole at the bottom. Yes, it is a PITA to get at but preferable and more accurate than taking readings at the trans end

[shogun]

On the transmission module outside should be written EGS or AGS. Based on the 1993 ETM component location views the EGS / AGS page 7100.0-00 the AGS or EGS are A8500 or A8600, and is located in the e-box in engine bay right side, from windshield there are
A6000 = DME>>A8500/A8600 = AGS/EGS>>>>A7/A52 = ABS/ABS/ASC module
see here http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/e34_94.pdf
from page 8500.0 are the drawings are there showing for each module or plug the pinout numbers
This ETM is for 525, 530 produced from 9/93 to 6/94 and 540 2/93 to 6/94, if that is wrong, select another ETM here http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/

[vinceinIL]

Thanks again for all the additional info. Late yesterday I removed the right side speaker and cover. Ignition off, no key in car. I did not remove the component I assumed to be the ETM, but did unplug the connector and tested the pins. This component has all flat pins, not the smaller ones like the other component in the front (closest to the front)engine bay e-box.

I took the attached picture of the component, which shows the marked pins of 55 (top), 37 (middle), and 19 (bottom, being the one out of line), and tested the pins that corresponded to those in the connector. (I am assuming that pin 54 is next to pin 55). I also tried testing the pins in the mirror opposite position. Either way, I did not get any readings other than 0 or 1, making me wonder if I'm still doing something wrong or testing the wrong component. Comments welcome!

Vince

Pins 3.jpg

[shogun]

In case that is the transmission you have installed, this shows the pinout and more details: Technical Service Information BMW - A4S (THM 4L30-E)
Adapted from BMW’s Service Bulletin 24 06 94 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 40 (Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit)
Complaint:
BMW’s A4S transmission is otherwise known as the 4L30-E. This transmission is found in BMW’s 3 and 5 series models. In 3 series vehicles the transmission is referred to as the A4S/270R and the 5 series as the A4S/310R indicating torque capacity. Some model vehicles have been producing intermittent pressure control solenoid code 40. If the vehicle is equipped with an AGS version controller E34 the “Trans Program” may be displayed in the matrix (Driver Information Center). If it is equipped with the E36 version controller the transmission fault indicator may be illuminated. Cycling of the ignition switch many times restores the operation back to normal condition.

Cause:
Possible Causes:
1. A bad ground or power supply to the TCM.
2. A faulty electrical circuit for the pressure control solenoid to the TCM.
3. The parameters engineered into the PROM for the TCM are too sensitive.

Correction:
Step 1. Locate the TCM:
a. 1992 to 1995 318i & 325i vehicles, the unit can be found in the passenger side engine compartment behind a cover plate as seen in Figure 1.
b. 1991 to 1993 525i vehicles, the unit is behind the passenger side kick panel.
c. 1994 to 1995 525i vehicles, it is the middle unit located in an electrical box in the engine compartment front of passenger side firewall.

Ground Check:
Once the TCM is located, unplug the 55 pin connector and identify pin locations using Figure 2. With the ignition OFF and a DVOM set to ohms, check the ground circuit for continuity from terminal 19 in the vehicle harness connector to ground. If continuity is not observed, provide a permanent ground for wire 19. To ensure that a good ground exists, plug the harness back into the TCM. Start up the vehicle and turn on as many electrical loads as possible. Switching your DVOM to DC volts, place the negative lead to ground and probe wire 19 with the positive lead. Less than 0.3 volts should be observed. Repair ground wire as necessary. Once the ground wire check is acceptable and code 40 persists, perform the following excessive voltage check procedure.

Excessive Voltage Check:
If an alternator is malfunctioning such as intermittent spikes, a code 40 could be produced. With most vehicles, a quick method in checking for this possibility would be to erase the code and run the vehicle with the alternator disconnected. If a chronic solenoid code problem is resolved with a disconnected alternator, the problem area has been located. Another alternative would be to use a DVOM equipped with a “MIN/MAX” option. With the meter attached to the charging system the min/max setting can present any spikes that may occur.
Another quick check that should be employed is to see the amount of AC voltage riding on top of the DC signal produced by the alternator. In other words, check the charging system for excessive "ripple". Simply observe the amount of AC voltage that is in the charging system with your DVOM set to AC volts. Most BMW vehicles utilize a Bosch alternator and depending on factors such as model type and the amount of electrical load being placed on the system, an approximate acceptable level of AC voltage would be between 0.3 to 0.6 volts. In a perfect world 0 volts should be observed. Since this is not the case, the most you should allow would be approximately 0.7 to 0.8 AC volts. Anything more is a definite concern. Caution: With all BMW’s, the best way to erase codes is with a scanner. The problem here is that most generic scan tools are not capable of attaching to and erasing codes from BMW computer systems. Disconnecting the battery to erase the codes may seem to be an option,

TCM Voltage Supply:
Once the alternator passes examination, switch the meter to DC volts and check TCM terminal 37 for system voltage. If voltage is not observed, a wiring problem via the ignition switch, and through a fuse will need to be corrected. Once corrected, clear code and drive the vehicle. If code 40 returns, conyinue on to step two.
Step 2. Checking solenoid resistance:
Turn ignition to the OFF position. Using a DVOM set to ohms, check the pressure control solenoid circuit between terminals 40 and 41 at the TCM. Solenoid resistance should be 2 to 6 ohms. If solenoid resistance is out of range, unplug the transmission case connector (See Figure 3), and recheck the pressure control solenoid resistance between terminals 1 and 3 (See Figure 4). If the resistance is still out of range, an inspection of the internal harness and solenoid will need to be performed and repaired. If the resistance is within range from the case connector but does not check correctly at the TCM, wires 40 and 41 at the TCM to the transmission will need to be individually inspected and repaired. If code 40 persists after all previous checks and necessary repairs have been made, continue on to step 3.
Step 3. Replace the EPROM:
It is now time to replace the EPROM inside the TCM. These new EPROM’s are very inexpensive and they have been re-calibrated. The EPROM inside the TCM is year, make and model sensitive. Refer the chart in Figure 5 for the proper EPROM Replacement Part Number. but be prepared to encounter new problems afterwards such as a loss of radio or memorized stations and/or, a loss of memorized seat and mirror positions. But most importantly, you could lose memorized engine control parameters producing a poor running vehicle. Disconnecting the battery is not recommended. Obviously the best choice would be to use an appropriate scanner.
SERVICE INFORMATION:
Modell 525i E34
production range.......EPROM p/n
09/91.....................01 00 1 469 126
10/91 - 9/92............01 00 1 469 127
10/92 - 9/93............01 00 1 469 128
10/1993..................01 00 1 469 129

Pressure Control Solenoid (All Models) .................................................. .................... 24 35 1 421 602

download 6 pages http://www.europeantransmissions.com....BMW/01-31.pdf

[DrJBM]

The stomp test can only tell you "transmission programm error". There should be detailed TCM codes you can pull with a code reader or software like inpa or carsoft. There are more than 20 codes for the transmission alone. Those should tell you exactly what could be wrong.

[whiskychaser]

As per Shogun's post above, the TCM should be located in the e-box on a '94 car. Did you confirm that the modules in there were the DME and ABS? I think you have now located the TCM but the easy way to confirm it is to remove it and read the label on the side. Just slacken the bolts, lift and push. It will come out through the hole at the bottom. The post also confirms what resistance you should get at the holes in the plug opposite pins 40 and 41. If you are using an analogue meter, low ohms values may be difficult to read

[vinceinIL]

Guys, thanks for all the additional great info! The car has a build date of 10/93. I checked the fuses the other day and all were good. I am using a digital meter set to the 2000 ohms scale as shown in the photo. Is that too high? vom 1.jpgI hope to have some time to work on the car tomorrow, and if I do, I'll check what I think is the TCM box behind the speaker and see what the label says. Of the two modules in the e-box, the front one had both small pins and flat pins, so that probably wasn't the TCM box. I'll try to check the other one if time permits.

Oddly enough, I drove the car for about 80 miles yesterday, and though it was not shifting into the higher gear, the Trans Program warning never came on.

Vince

[whiskychaser]

Can see how you might be confused as it says 'ohms' above the 10amp socket. Put the black lead in the 'com' socket and switch the ohms range to 200 ohms. Link to the manual for your meter if you have not got one:

http://c.sears.com/assets/own/03482141e.pdf

[DrJBM]

hope to have some time to work on the car tomorrow, and if I do, I'll check what I think is the TCM box behind the speaker and see what the label says. Of the two modules in the e-box, the front one had both small pins and flat pins, so that probably wasn't the TCM box. I'll try to check the other one if time permits.

If you have a module behind the speaker panel, then that's the tcm. If you have three modules in your ecu box behind the right shock tower, then the tcm is one of them. There won't be one behind the kick panel. If you have only two modules, one is for the dme and the other is the abs control unit.

[RandyE34]

I'm trying to locate the EPROM (01 00 1 469 128) for my 1993 525i. BMW stopped selling it. I've had the Transmission Program problem for many years. Does anyone know where I can locate this EPROM?

Thank you

[whiskychaser]

I'm trying to locate the EPROM (01 00 1 469 128) for my 1993 525i. BMW stopped selling it. I've had the Transmission Program problem for many years. Does anyone know where I can locate this EPROM?

Thank you

I'd suggest that if you are certain the chip is to blame, get another TCM. The tuning guys also do chip upgrades so they may be able to help. But you may be better off starting another thread. Don't forget to include where you are and what trans it is. The E34 525i could have one of three.

Edit: Something rings a bell about this. I'm guessing you have an A4S310R with code 40 and have read the TSB 24 06 94. Maybe include that

[vinceinIL]

And finally I have some numbers!

I have posted a picture of the TCM module that is in the right side footwell (or what I think of as the footwell) of the car.

Engine cold, ignition off, outside temp 50 degrees F. Numbers I could get are:
48 17.6
45 10.5
43 17.5
41 no reading
40 no reading
38 17.5
22 no reading
17 no reading

The readings that I did get are where the meter stopped at. On the pins that I did not get a reading that changed the meter, I moved the probe around to make sure I didn't have a poor connection.

With the readings for the shift and lock-up solenoids good and the band reading also good, am I correct to be suspicious of the lack of readings for the pressure reg. and temp sensor? I made an extra effort to see if I could get a reading from them, and even tried the previous pins that gave readings to make sure I had a good connection. TCM Box.JPG

Should I make an effort to test the the pressure reg. and temp sensor next, or should I suspect/test something in the TCM? I would like to be thrilled if it's something as simple as a pressure regulator (if it's fairly cheap and easy) or temp sensor, but don't want to start replacing parts until I know they are not functioning correctly.

As always, thanks again for all the really good and useful info!

Vince

[whiskychaser]

That is the TCM - 'Gebtriebesteurung' means just that. Your readings for the solenoids are within spec and even better, they are all the same. It's not an infallible test but if one was way out compared to the other two, you would know something was wrong. So don't think you are wasting your time because you are not. Band looks fine too.

It is well worth doing the others as they can make crazy stuff happen too. But just so we are clear, you don't test them with pin 54. You put the meter leads on pins 41 & 40 to check the pressure regulator and 22 &17 for the temp sensor.

PS. While you are in there, check the speed sensor too. That is between pins 14 and 20. I know the ohms for a ZF trans but can't remember the reading for the GM. Make a note and we can confirm it. FWIW, when I have found duff speed sensors, the meter tended not to settle but the reading just kept going up and up

HTH

[vinceinIL]

Ahh, so that is what I missed, pins 40 and 41 and 22 and 17 instead of 54. But I am very happy to hear that the consistent solenoid reading are good. I figured there was still time to run out and wrestle with that TCM plug yet again. This time I get a reading of 4.3 between 40 and 41 for the pressure regulators, but I cannot get any reading for 22 and 17, the Temperature Sensor. Might I have finally, just maybe, found the likely culprit?

[whiskychaser]

Entirely possible. Did you change your meter to a higher ohms scale to check the temp sensor ? If not, you might be getting a false reading. Worth testing the speed sensor while you are there but don't forget to knock the meter down to the 200ohm scale again for that

[vinceinIL]

Okay, I might be finally getting the hang of testing for ohms....

Today I tested the Temp Sensor again using the 20k scale and got a steady reading of 8.55. Is this low? Then I pushed my luck even further and tested the Speed Sensor on the 200 scale and got a reading there of 3.23.

Car continues to drive well, but when cold the first to second shift doesn't happen until it winds out a bit past 3k rpms close to 40 mph. Then it shifts normally, but still does not even think about going into anything higher even at 55 mph. I've found that by keeping the speed near 50 mph, I won't see the Trans Program warning. If I let it go faster, it seems that I get the warning.

Thanks for all the interesting comments and info!

Vince

[whiskychaser]

The temp sensor is supposed to be 25k at 75 deg F. IIRC, the voltage fed back to the TCM goes down with temp so 8.55k when it is cold is plausible. 3.23 ohms for the speed sensor looks very low though - I think the spec is more like 3000 (3K) ohms. Maybe double check using the 200k ohms range for the temp sensor and 20k ohms for the speed sensor? According to the meter manual, it will put the decimal point in the correct place then.

[vinceinIL]

Okay, here we go again with more numbers...

Outside temp about 50 degrees F, car fully warmed up after being driven for 20 miles...

Speed sensor; on the 200 Ohms scale, originally read 3.23. On the 20k scale today, read 3.51, and on the 200 scale, read 3.5.

Temp sensor, on the 20k scale, originally read 8.55. On the 200k scale today, read 2.9.

I think we are on to something with these two sensors and their numbers. Maybe I should try them again tomorrow? At what scales should I try?

Vince

[whiskychaser]

At first glance, you may think the readings are way out. But the numbers are affected by the scale you select:

Speed sensor is not 3.51 ohms. It is on the 20k scale so that is 3.51k ohms. The spec is about 3K

Temp sensor is not 2.9 ohms. It is on the 200k ohms scale so that is 29k ohms. The spec is about 30K at 55 deg F

The temp sensor resistance will be different as the car is fully warmed up. If the weather forecast for your area is to be believed, the temp will be about 55F tomorrow so you can check it before starting the car
The speed sensor reading looks high so maybe double check that too. If it were totally shot, you would probably get 'trans prog' before you hit 10mph so I am not convinced it is faulty either.

Your next step may well be having the fault codes read. But remember that it is only current faults which count.

[vinceinIL]

Okay, more numbers from this morning...

About 50-55 degrees F this morning during testing before starting the car. Speed Sensor is interesting as a possibility as the "trans prog" message will come on about 55 mph, and does not seem temperature or rpm-related. Of course, the car does not shift as expected into the higher gear.

-- means I could not get a reading no matter how I moved the probes in the connector.

Speed Sensor
Pins 14 and 20
200k - 2.8
20k - 2.85
2000 - --
200 - --

Temp sensor
Pins 22 and 17
200k - 36.7
20k - --
2000 - --
200 - --

Finding a shop that can read the fault codes is easier said than done, and might well cost more than a sensor or two, especially with my time and gas cost to get there considered. I doubt they will be willing to plug in and get the codes as fast as they can and as cheaply as they can.

[whiskychaser]

The spec for the speed sensor is 3K ohms. I am looking at an actual test result and that is 2.78k. So at 2.8 yours is virtually the same. The resistance on the temp sensor also varies with temperature so that would appear to be OK too. The speed sensor is easy enough to access but the temp sensor is not. And I would not recommend testing by substitution anyway. Your car is probably set up to be in 3rd by 55mph so transprog is the TCMs way of saying 'hey, we are in the wrong gear!' Rather than go to a garage, may consider getting a diagnostic set up like DIS or INPA yourself? That will enable you to check not only the TCM but read codes on all the other modules on the car too.