Hey all, I know this has been beaten to death but I've read nearly every thread on the subject to no avail. I want to take off the fan and shroud to access my thermostat for a coolant flush and t-stat replacement. I can't loosen this damn nut though. I went out and bought the $30 32mm wrench (you can bet I'm returning that the second this job is over). I've hit the wrench with a hammer, jammed the bolts in the pump with a screwdriver (favorite screwdriver, ruined), pretty much all except for buying the tool, which isn't really an option as I A. Can't find it online B. Am in patient. When I first started trying the nut was difficult to turn and made a squeaking noise. I hadn't read up on this too much and put wd40 on it (mistake?), now it turns easily and quietly. I don't know what to do, I've given up for the night. Not sure if there are any tricks I'm missing, any help is great.
-Alex
P.S. I know you can take the thermostat housing off with the fan attached, but to flush it I want to remove the t-stat put the housing on. Going through that four times with the fan on would suck, but I will if I have to.
P.P.S. I know it's a reverse thread
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by Bairdogg; 02-25-2017 at 10:51 PM.
The nut could be cross threaded - so spinning it out could be tough.
You could make water-pump tool by taking a flat iron bar, drilling a hole to fit over the water pump pulley nut and dremel-ing a c - notch in the bottom (so to fit snuggly around the fan nut) and hold the water pump pulley easier than the 2 screw drivers.. You can use it as leverage.
I bent mine to make it a bit easier to snug over the fan nut and on to fit around one of the water pump nuts.
fan tool.jpg
Have a shop knock it loose
If they were cross-threaded, what would that mean? A new nut, water pump, fan clutch... what? As long as I can get the fan out I don't mind leaving it out for a few days while parts come in. I'll try to fashion one of those later today, but the nut and waterpump as so tight together I'm not sure I'll be able to keep the tool from rotating with the pump.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last time a had a "small-job" for my local specialty shop (2 helicoils, one short gas line replaced and a simple bushing and a few other things) it ended up taking nine weeks, $2,500 and not all of the things I asked for were done. Yes I need to find a shop, no, now is not the time for me to be looking. I'm on somewhat of a time constraint.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by Bairdogg; 03-17-2017 at 12:29 PM.
You could try using a punch on the corner of the nut, to break it loose with impact force.
I've never tried this, but my old fan clutch had marks on it from someone doing it
The tool gives you leverage, so the waterpump cannot rotate - The tool goes across the waterpump from the left side (being held in your left hand turning counterclockwise) locked onto the waterpump nut and bolt - On the right side you hold the wrench you bought on the 32mm nut and tighten (turn clockwise) - the dual force will break the nut - as you have leverage. Screwdrivers are not strong enough.
If the nut is stripped - you will find out once it is off - loosening the nut will not cause any more damage (if it is stripped).
Also - just to be clear - when you say "the nut and water pump are so tight together" - the c notch in the tool goes over the back side of the fan nut - This is the key part of making the tool - make it so you can lever over the fan nut and onto the pulley. Remember the drilled hole fits over the water pump pulley nut. The lever comes from the C- notch and the fact that it is attached to the nut on the pulley.
The bar stock should be thick enough to be sturdy and not easily bendable by hand - but not thick enough to block putting the 32mm wrench on the fan nut.
Clockwise on a reverse-threaded nut in this case means toward the driver-side fender. I've had good luck with an M42 and M54 fan clutch nut. With the first M20 water pump I changed, the nut was on so tight I had to remove the water pump, put it a vice, block the impeller from moving, and finally was able to break the fan clutch nut free (impeller shaft snapped in the process).
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
Realized there was a roughly 100% chance I would mess up measuring the homemade tool, but found out my coworker has a generic fan clutch tool, which he's letting me borrow. (He made sure to rub it in that HE'S never had to use it) We'll see how much of a miracle worker it really is. I'll update hopefully tonight if I get a chance to try it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A suggestion: Cut the fan off the water pump and replace the water pump. If it's that welded on, you're going to need to replace those parts anyway. IIRC, a sawzall should work. It's been some years since i had to do that, but you're burning money and time trying to take apart ruined parts anyway.
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
If this tool doesn't work I'll try to take off the water pump and fan together. If that's too difficult I'll just hack it off. I hadn't thought of that as an option before, thanks.
I ordered a new all metal water pump this morning. If it wasn't messed up before, it is now after being struck by a hammer 50+ times. That means this job has gone from a thermostat replacement to almost an entire cooling refresh. Talk about a slippery slope.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by Bairdogg; 02-27-2017 at 09:41 AM.
When was the timing belt last replaced? If you're pulling the WP, might as well do the TB and tensioner if they're due (or unknown).
^ If the OP has an M42 he has a timing chain instead of a belt.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
I was referring to a timing belt; I just lost the fact that it was an M42 in the process of reading through the thread. D'oh.
Well, haven't gotten a chance to try out the tool and I'm heading to Florida tomorrow, so the car's saying disassembled until I get back. Hopefully parts will be waiting for me when I'm back.
Well, borrowed one of these belt holder tools from a friend, hasn't helped much. It stops the belt but I still can't break the nut loose. I for sure need torque in the opposite direction with one of those belt holders. On a side note, is the fan supposed to stick out this much from the shroud? The blades are sitting about a 1/4 inch outside of the shroud, and I can't remember if they were always like this or I'm slowly breaking something.
Belt holder tool
Photo of fan blade protrusion/source of paranoia
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pretty sure.
Anyway, the tool you want is a sawzall. :p
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
Hah, yes. I'm right there with the rallyx ix with the brakes. I'm not even trying to disassemble those rusted connections. Cut everything and replace with new from the ABS pump. It's just not worth the time screwing around with it.
Bair, have you tried making a fan clutch tool like 95BMW suggested? You can find metal stock at Home Depot. You just need a flat long piece. Or just buy the tool off Amazon. $20. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VLLQ6M?psc=1
Last edited by Kershaw; 03-15-2017 at 09:35 AM.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
OP said he already has the 32mm wrench, he needs the tool to stop the hub from rotating.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Last edited by Bairdogg; 03-15-2017 at 07:12 PM.
It says m4, I'm willing to bet that's a typo for m42. And if it's not, it's something you can easily modify with a drill or an angle grinder.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Ended up ordering the same tool but manufactured by AlphaMoto. It's a few bucks more but everyone was complaining of the soft steel not holding up on the other one, and if it breaks for them it'll surely break for me. We'll see when it arrives on Sunday
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NUZ50I..._R4aZyb0HPPWDH
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bookmarks