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Thread: 2013 BMW 750Li xDrive

  1. #1
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    2013 BMW 750Li xDrive

    2013 BMW 750Li xDrive

    I have always changed my own oil in every car I have owned. This is a new beast. Anyone have a link on how to for this car? Also do you guys run Royal Purple in your BMW's?

  2. #2
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    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    I could not find info for you on the DIY oil change, but I would not recommend Royal Purple for BMWs - I had this discussion the other day with our in-house master tech because I was using Castrol, as my car was tuned with it; and he suggested only Motul, Mobil 1, or the factory BMW oil...just my 2 cents.


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  3. #3
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    WHat filters do you recommend? Mahle or OEM BMW?

  4. #4
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    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    The OEM one is fine or the Mann filter also works well - basically whichever one you get, make sure it looks like the one that you're replacing.


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  5. #5
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    Is this the correct oil filter wrench for a N63T engine? https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Wrench...eywords=119240

    Also, can I upload PDF's as I found a how to guide on a 550 which is very similar and thing others would find useful. found it on the 01-19-15, 01:17PM post at http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=820816

    - - - Updated - - -

    You Tube video on the 550 again very similar to the N63
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krwTtlDC4Zg

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adfundum View Post
    Is this the correct oil filter wrench for a N63T engine?
    The wrench is an 86mm with 16 flutes. Looks like the one you are looking at will work, but the half inch drive is overkill - so don't over-tighten.

    I bought this one off of Amazon: CTA Tools 2489 86-Millimeter Heavy-Duty Cap-Type Oil Filter Wrench
    Same price, but same day free shipping if you have Prime. Works just fine.

    I didn't look at your videos, but I'll put a quick run down with needed tools (for an N63) here for people in the future.
    - Parking brake on, chock rear wheels, securely raise the car in whatever fashion you see fit. (I use two 3-ton jacks with hockey pucks under the front pads on each side.) Best if the engine is cold, but just not hot for the sake of not damaging the aluminum pan when installing the plug. Plus boiling hot oil on your hands is not pleasant.
    - You'll need an 8mm socket to remove the retaining screws from the round access panels of the oil drain plug and oil filter. The covers are held on mainly friction against the under-cladding. There are finger holes to rotate them counterclockwise until the "wing" tabs are free. (You'll understand when you see it.)
    - The oil drain requires a hex/allen key... might be an 8mm (but can't recall). If you don't have a hex socket set - time to go to Harbor Freight with that 20% off coupon. There is a copper washer with the plug. It will come off with the plug most likely. Just make sure it's not stuck to the bottom of the pan.
    - NOTE: It is a big oil plug... when you open it, the oil is going to come out VERY quickly... 9-10 liters, so have a good oil pan ready and make sure the pan breather is open, or you will have a mess.
    - There is also a 5mm hex screw in the bottom of the oil filter housing. It's not necessary to remove it, but again you're less likely to make a mess if you let it drain before removing the housing.
    - OPTIONAL: I lower the car at this point, so the engine is level to allow as much old oil out as possible. You can also pop the hood at this time and loosen the oil cap to aid in clearing out the old oil. (You can do this at the beginning too.)
    - While the oil is draining, clean your drain plugs and replace the copper washer and rubber o-ring with the ones supplied with the filter. Make sure to lubricate the o-rings with a little oil before installing.
    - Raise the car again, and clean around both drain plug holes. The re-install both plugs. I don't recall torque values, but wrench-hand-tight works for me. (I think this is about 20-25nm.) Don't over-tighten!
    - Get your filter housing wrench, and reposition you oil pan. (In some cases you can actually take the filter housing/cap off by hand.) Remove the filter housing.
    - IMPORTANT: The filter will come out with the housing cap. Notice the orientation and compare it to your new filter. The center cavity on one end is more shallow. This end will point downward into the cap when installed. When you pull the old filter there MIGHT be a smaller round retainer with a check valve (?) of sorts attached to the bottom. If it does, just use a common head screw driver or similar to gently pry it out of the filter. Press this piece into your new filter on the corresponding end. If it stays in the filter cap - nothing to do here.
    - Remember to replace and lubricate the o-ring on the filter housing cap.
    - Insert your filter in the cap as it was before. It should lock/click/seat into the cap fairly securely - not loose.
    - OPTIONAL: Add oil to the filter once seated into the housing cap... let it soak into the filter element. If you fill it to the brim it might be a little messy re-installing. I do this step because it will take a second for the oil pump to saturate and push through the filter on the first start. This helps to reduce any temporary oil starvation.
    - Re-install the housing cap with new filter. Get ready for a little spillage if you pre-soaked the filter. I think the torque rating is on the cap, but I generally go hand-tight and might bump it with the wrench a little for good measure. Do NOT over-tighten.
    - Clean up, and re-install the round covers. Pay attention to the slight angle on the "wings" of the covers and where the clip nut is oriented to correctly align it with the holes for the retaining screws. (It helps to be directly under it so you can see the silver clip nut through the screw hole.) Replace 8mm retaining screws.
    - Lower the car.
    - I believe the new advice is to add 9.5 to 10 liters of oil to the car. I usually add only 9. (There is some residual old oil in all the nooks and crannies and coating parts.) With 9 liters my oil "gauge" says the car is full. Of course, you'll need to check it once the car warms up during the first drive. Add oil if necessary.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by SGs54MC; 03-21-2017 at 04:54 AM.

  7. #7
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    The oil filter drain is a 6 mm, not 5. And only the early N63 engines have a drain on the oil filter. They're pretty much useless anyway because much of the oil remains and will always spill no matter what. If your engine has the gray cover on top, you have an oil filter drain. Black cover, no drain.


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  8. #8
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    I consider to get 7 series, I 'm the owner of 2013 BMW 5 series.

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