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Thread: PSA: Replace Your Timing Chain Tensioner

  1. #1
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    PSA: Replace Your Timing Chain Tensioner

    Replaced mine on my 01 540i/6 because occasionally, I would hear a cold start rattle. It only has 119k on the clock and I thought this would be a good start before I replace the guides and vanos rebuild in the future.

    Easy enough job.


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  2. #2
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    Nice, but I would be wary that the extra tensioning powa would put more strain on the already aged guides. Hopefully you do not find that this speeds up the guide failure process.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by WBAD530i View Post
    Nice, but I would be wary that the extra tensioning powa would put more strain on the already aged guides. Hopefully you do not find that this speeds up the guide failure process.
    Tensioners do basically nothing after oil pressure is up. Here you basically have an extra buffer zone, and that helps when dealing with the VANOS drain valve.

    The guides are going to fail regardless, so let's hope he gets another 100k out of them.
    Last edited by XAlt; 02-22-2017 at 08:32 AM.

  4. #4
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    Nice! Looks like you had the older version with the shorter spring so well worth it to upgrade.


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  5. #5
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    I did mine on my i6 but only replaced the spring. Is there any additional benefit to replacing the piston as well?

  6. #6
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    The extra spring length is to lessen the chain slack upon cold startup. Cold startups do the most damage to the guides so the updated tensioner design should theoretically help to preserve the guides. However, my experience shows that it's mostly a crapshoot. My 2003 540i/6 had the guides go out at 194k with the original chain tensioner, and I'm working on a 2001 740i where the guides went out at 160k miles with the updated tensioner design.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    The extra spring length is to lessen the chain slack upon cold startup. Cold startups do the most damage to the guides so the updated tensioner design should theoretically help to preserve the guides. However, my experience shows that it's mostly a crapshoot. My 2003 540i/6 had the guides go out at 194k with the original chain tensioner, and I'm working on a 2001 740i where the guides went out at 160k miles with the updated tensioner design.
    It's just good insurance. That's all.


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5XTu View Post
    Replaced mine on my 01 540i/6 because occasionally, I would hear a cold start rattle. It only has 119k on the clock and I thought this would be a good start before I replace the guides and vanos rebuild in the future.

    Easy enough job.


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    Do you have the part number, and where did you order it?

    Many thanks

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5XTu View Post
    It's just good insurance. That's all.
    Yep, and it's pretty cheap too— $40-50 for the INA-branded OEM tensioner.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by LASwede View Post
    Do you have the part number, and where did you order it?

    Many thanks
    It's 11317531813 and you can buy it from any BMW parts store— FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, AutohausAZ, etc. Shop around and see who has the best price.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  10. #10
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    Don't forget to order the new o-ring and keep the crush washer on the new part when installing the new tentioner.

  11. #11
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    I replaced mine and it was the exact same as the one I took out.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jicaino View Post
    I replaced mine and it was the exact same as the one I took out.
    That's what I feared, so I got the febi.

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    I cleaned and polished up my 160,000 mile tensioner and reused it when I did the guides. Totally silent all the time, even on cold fire up

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    That's what I feared, so I got the febi.
    I got the Febi too. I keep forgetting that back in 2008/7 when the engine was replaced the car got a ton of new parts.

    FWIW the Febi I took out was really snug and tight after almost 10 years and 80k miles after it was replaced. The compression and lenght of the spring was exactly the same as the new one. I measured them with a spring gage averaging readings in extension/compression and they were 1 gram appart.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plattus1000 View Post
    Don't forget to order the new o-ring and keep the crush washer on the new part when installing the new tentioner.
    Shit,I replaced mine a couple of weekend ago's and I did not see, nor replace the o-ring...do you think it may have been "stuck" inside the engine?
    Last edited by lamaker; 02-23-2017 at 10:26 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamaker View Post
    Shit,I replaced mine a couple of weekend ago's and I did not see, nor replace the o-ring...do you think it may have been "stuck" inside the engine?
    There's no o-ring in the chain tensioner assembly— there is an o-ring in the place that supplies oil to the chain tensioner but that can only be accessed with the upper timing cover removed. As long as you replaced the crush washer on the chain tensioner you have nothing to worry about.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    There's no o-ring in the chain tensioner assembly— there is an o-ring in the place that supplies oil to the chain tensioner but that can only be accessed with the upper timing cover removed. As long as you replaced the crush washer on the chain tensioner you have nothing to worry about.
    I didn't replace any crush washer...I did not see one when I removed the old tensioner and did not see one come with the new tensioner...I just ordered the correct washer and will add it in...

  18. #18
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    I don't recall the tensioner having a crush washer. I think it's a tapered seal plug.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I mean, not tapered threads, but the shoulder of the plug has a tapered seat that seals against the timing cover.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  19. #19
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    The plug that screws in with the chain tensioner always has a crush washer...

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2264

    It's #20 in that diagram.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    The plug that screws in with the chain tensioner always has a crush washer...

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2264

    It's #20 in that diagram.
    shoot... I didn't replace it.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jicaino View Post
    shoot... I didn't replace it.
    If it's not leaking where the tensioner meets the side of the engine, I wouldn't worry to much about it.
    Just replace it when it's convenient for you.
    My $.02.
    <== Steptronic Sealbeach740
    2000 740i sport: 74k Green/Tan chrome MPars, clear corners, quad brake lights, AIC hi-beams, Hoen fogs, 16x9 screen, MKIV, TFT LCD screen in back, license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, iPod audio/video (CDC/iPod audio switching, iPod video on 16x9 screen), Basslink, gauge rings, ///M pedals, switched steptronic +/- shifting mode, E46 paddle shifter steering wheel, Dinan engine & tranny software upgrade, DDEs controlled via Euro fog light switch, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, windows up/sunroof close via remote.

    2003 540i sport: 81k, Sterling grey/grey, MKIV Nav, PDC & CWP - Added license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, paddle shift steering wheel, windows up/sunroof close via remote, Akebono's, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, quad brake lights, iPod audio via AUX mode/video via 16x9 screen, BMW TV tuner, ///M pedals & gauge rings.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sealbeach740 View Post
    If it's not leaking where the tensioner meets the side of the engine, I wouldn't worry to much about it.
    Just replace it when it's convenient for you.
    My $.02.
    I *think* it's not leaking... of course now I will dream of major oil leaks from that spot.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  23. #23
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    E39s can read your mind and are more intelligent than 95% of the drivers on the road.

    Stop worrying and they won't break.

  24. #24
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    Mine was stuck to the head and pried it off. Cleaned the surface and put new tensioner and washer.


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