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Thread: 2003 BMW 325xi Long cranking then start

  1. #1
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    2003 BMW 325xi Long cranking then start

    Hi. My car starts perfectly sometimes and then sometimes it cranks 4 or 5 times and then starts. Either way, once it starts it runs great! I don't have any error codes at all. I have read up on fuel filter/regulator or fuel pump. It seems to me that people with those issues have stalling or hesitation issues, which I do not. Won't a failing filter/regulator or pump give error codes? I also read up on fuel injectors, but again, I have no error codes. Thank-you in advance!

  2. #2
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    This could be kind of anything. Vacuum leak, camshaft sensor, MAF...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fx323i View Post
    This could be kind of anything. Vacuum leak, camshaft sensor, MAF...
    Hi Martin! Thanks for the reply! I will get checking all of those things, but wouldn't they throw a code?

  4. #4
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    I have checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the MAF. I am getting no codes, so I believe the camshaft sensor is OK but I may be wrong.
    My thinking is that if the spark plugs, fuel filter or pump were going bad, wouldn't I have other symptoms like hesitation, rough idle, poor fuel mileage, etc?
    I have none of those. I have been reading posts that say maybe it is clogged injectors and some people use a fuel cleaner like Techron. Is Techron safe for my vehicle?

  5. #5
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    Have you tried removing and inspecting the sparkplugs? They can be a window to individual cylinder efficiency, and provide a clue.
    Mileage, age? Proper plug, gap? NGK BKR6EQUP - Gap 0.032

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Have you tried removing and inspecting the sparkplugs? They can be a window to individual cylinder efficiency, and provide a clue.
    Mileage, age? Proper plug, gap? NGK BKR6EQUP - Gap 0.032
    I will check the spark plugs next. Thanks!

  7. #7
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    Techron is okay to use but read the label about dosage.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  8. #8
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    There are no faults for a fuel pump failure which is amazing considering all the fault codes you could have, but get this you could have a fault code for low gas/misfire, funny.

  9. #9
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    ^ Easy to explain: CEL are thrown for emissions related crap, so if you have a misfire it will be triggered. Who cares that you have a failing fuel pump, you'll know it sooner than later.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Have you tried removing and inspecting the sparkplugs? They can be a window to individual cylinder efficiency, and provide a clue.
    Mileage, age? Proper plug, gap? NGK BKR6EQUP - Gap 0.032
    I went to check/replace spark plugs but the person that last changed them for the previous owner has tightened them so hard that I can't undo them. My spark plug remover tool's handle even twisted
    when I attempted the removals, so I stopped as I don't want them to break! Guess it has to go to a mechanic. Once I remove the fuel pump from the car, is there a way to test it with a volt meter to
    see if it is faulty?
    Last edited by CynthiaK; 02-28-2017 at 09:58 AM.

  11. #11
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    If you feel up to attempting sparkplug removal on your own, use a breaker bar instead of your flimsy spark plug removal tool.
    Be careful, as they may be frozen in place, and break loose suddenly, depending on how much force is required unlock them.
    I don't suspect fuel pump, as there are presently no lean codes being displayed. If you have a fuel pressure gauge handy,
    you can hook it up to the fuel rail and take readings at startup and at varying rpms.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    If you feel up to attempting sparkplug removal on your own, use a breaker bar instead of your flimsy spark plug removal tool.
    Be careful, as they may be frozen in place, and break loose suddenly, depending on how much force is required unlock them.
    I don't suspect fuel pump, as there are presently no lean codes being displayed. If you have a fuel pressure gauge handy,
    you can hook it up to the fuel rail and take readings at startup and at varying rpms.
    Thanks for the reply! My car is still running fine, when she starts. No hesitation, no rough idle, no problems. I have long cranking and then it suddenly starts.
    Now this morning, at the grocery store, there wasn't even a crank and I thought I was stranded, so I kept trying and suddenly it cranked normally and the car started!
    I have read that a fuel pump going bad will make a whirring sound, so I listened in the back seat while my daughter tried to start the car and there was no sound like that at all.
    I hope you are right and the fuel pump is OK. As for the spark plugs, I am too worried that I may break a spark plug off and then have even bigger problems!!!!
    Also, you are correct, I have no lean codes or codes of any kind. Would a bad fuel filter or fuel filter regulator give codes?
    I will go and get a fuel pressure gauge and test. Also, I have been reading posts about clogged fuel injectors. After I test with the gauge,
    I am going to put a bottle of Techron in the tank and fill it up, hopefully that helps if the injectors are clogged.
    I also was thinking it could be the starter. I just replaced a starter in a 530i, but with it, there was a whirring sound each time I tried to start the car, which eventaully got worse. I
    don't get anything like that with this car. Just a long cranking and then it starts or no sound at all with no start or normal crank and start.
    Last edited by CynthiaK; 02-28-2017 at 03:18 PM.

  13. #13
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    Let's start with the basics first-#1. Make sure all battery connections are clean and snug.#2. Check voltage at battery terminals, before startup-at startup-at idle.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Let's start with the basics first-#1. Make sure all battery connections are clean and snug.#2. Check voltage at battery terminals, before startup-at startup-at idle.
    Already did that, all is good.
    Please feel free to comment on the other things I have researched:
    1. bad spark plugs - probably not because when the car does start, the start, idle and driving are all smooth.
    2. bad fuel relay - probably not because it does eventually start so the engine is obviously getting fuel.
    3. failing ignition switch - I am going to test voltage tomorrow.
    4. failing fuel pump - possibly.
    5. bad fuel filter and regulator - possibly.
    The above two could be ruled out using a fuel pressure gauge to test.
    6. clogged injectors - possibly. Added Techron today.
    7. starter - no common signs, such as clicking or metal clanking but will test voltage.
    Last edited by CynthiaK; 03-01-2017 at 10:12 AM.

  15. #15
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    Great, you've been pretty thorough.
    With the symptoms you've described I would suspect leaking injectors over clogged injectors. Signs of a leaking injector, leading to difficult starting issues:

    A wet spark plug.
    Oil smells like gas.
    Fuel pressure at rail bleeds off immediately after shutting engine off.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Great, you've been pretty thorough.
    With the symptoms you've described I would suspect leaking injectors over clogged injectors. Signs of a leaking injector, leading to difficult starting issues:

    A wet spark plug.
    Oil smells like gas.
    Fuel pressure at rail bleeds off immediately after shutting engine off.
    Thank-you for the reply.

    Turns out it was a bad fuel pressure regulator on the fuel filter. Changed the filter and my car is back to starting properly.

  17. #17
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    Did fuel pressure readings from a FPG lead you to the faulty filter/regulator?

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