So my shift knob had frayed wires and my gauge/dash lights would not work (burned out headlight switch). I did the bypass on the headlight switch and it worked!!! I went back inside after turning the car off and I re-soldered new wires onto my knob just to give it a try and connected the shift knob and turned the lights on and..... nothing (it didn't make a noise and I didn't see it short out but the lights again won't work)... I tried to re-solder the headlight switch just in case I had a bad connection, and it's not the problem...
Do you guys think the next step would be to buy a new headlight switch?
Oh and I checked the fuses and none were burnt out... unfortunately the previous owner had replaced some 5 Amp ones with 10, 15 Amp fuses so I'm going to have to go and make sure those are all correct, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.
I'm at a loss at what to do other than replace the headlight switch. Any ideas? Anyone else encounter this? I was so pumped to have the lights working but it was only for a minute.
If you burned out headlight switch you need to buy a new one. Make sure wires to illuminated shift knob are ok before that.
That's what I figured - but I didn't know if having done the bypass would be enough. Crossing my finger's it's just the headlight switch. I will post back here with what I learn!
Unless you find where the gray/red-stripe wire is grounding out, you'll blow the resistor in every new headlight switch you install!
Jumping across the resistor is all you needed to do, and would serve you well, UNLESS you keep the gauge lights at some value less than full brightness (I don't, I like them bright). Even if you elect to replace the switch, I recommend you keep the jumped out one in place until you find, AND ISOLATE where it is shorting to ground (use a volt-ohm meter to determine once you've cleared the fault).
Definitely read the fuse schedule and put the correct value fuses on the circuits, or you're going to have melted insulation to contend with, and that has ther potential to create lots of collateral damage.
Or, don't take my word for it...
Well I'm guessing it was the shift knob. The wires were frayed and essentially twisted together when I got the car. But like you said I will try to make sure that is the case before replacing the switch.
This is a new (to me) car so I'm not sure what brightness it was kept on.
I'll admit to being an electrical newbie so I'm not sure where all to check? Where should I start?
Any help on what/how to test would be greatly appreciated!
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