Stuck Jesus Bolt

**SergeBMW** · 02-19-2017, 02:32 PM

This thing is stuck and I mean I bent a 4 foot steel cheater bar stuck. I am using the BMW crank holder and nothing.
I've triple checked, clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen correct? M62 non vanos.

Im about to bring it to my Indy because I'm left without options. I removed it before and put a new bolt in and torqued to spec as stated in the bmw tis

Should I be worried about snapping the key that holds the hub to the crank? Forgot the name, F something

**cazal740i** · 02-19-2017, 04:46 PM

Use two ppl on the cheater bar plus put a thick blanket on the driver`s fender to prevent a dent when Loose

**setconstr** · 02-19-2017, 05:39 PM

I Have seen my Indie Mechanic use this coordless impact on the Jesus bolt with no problem Ingersoll Rand W7150-K12 20v 1/2" Impact Wrench

**NordmanMg** · 02-19-2017, 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by cazal740i

Use two ppl on the cheater bar plus put a thick blanket on the driver`s fender to prevent a dent when Loose

Impact gun is way to go, did two TCG jobs and both times used impact gun, 15 seconds and HB is off

- - - Updated - - -

Buy the way, I haven't conter-held crankshaft eight

**toomann** · 02-20-2017, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by SergeBMW

This thing is stuck and I mean I bent a 4 foot steel cheater bar stuck. I am using the BMW crank holder and nothing.
I've triple checked, clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen correct? M62 non vanos.

Im about to bring it to my Indy because I'm left without options. I removed it before and put a new bolt in and torqued to spec as stated in the bmw tis

Should I be worried about snapping the key that holds the hub to the crank? Forgot the name, F something

Unless I'm mistaken that bolt is a reversed thread - loosening is clockwise and tightening is counter.

Perhaps not. After reading a few posts it appears it's a standard bolt. I couldn't remember. It's been a few years since I did mine. I used a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 4ft iron pipe over it. Mine came loose fairly easy. Good luck with yours.

**PiotrC70** · 02-20-2017, 09:23 AM

No, it's a standard bolt. The only ones that are reverse thread are the cam gear bolts. That being said, I heated up the bolt a bit and surrounding areas just to break free whatever is holding it, sprayed penetrating lube and let it sit overnight. The next day I just used the HF Earthquake 1/2" impact and got it off relatively easily. Ironically, the standard 90psi setting on the impact didn't help and actually bumped up my regulator to like 120 and was able to back the bolt out nice and slow.... only took about 30s-1m with the impact.

**SergeBMW** · 02-20-2017, 03:49 PM

I am truly afraid of shearing off that wooddruff key that aligns the hub to the crankshaft. Ive already bent one pipe myself... lol

I will try an impact gun, I may have to get the Harbor Freight since my craftsman for some reason cannot even remove the wheel lugs. Not sure if its the gun or my compressor/airline even with correct airline inner diameter and fittings plus tank.

Did you all have to remove the radiator to get an impact in there? Should that be enough or am I looking at removing the A/C condenser as well?

**PiotrC70** · 02-20-2017, 05:59 PM

Radiator has to be removed for just about everything short thermostat & throttle body.

**dannyzabolotny** · 02-20-2017, 06:34 PM

It's weird that you're having so much trouble with yours... I've gotten 8 of these crank bolts loose on a variety of vehicles (540i/740i/740il/Range Rover/X5) with no problems at all. My method has always been the same: PB Blaster on the bolt the night before, and then I use a crank holding tool along with a 3/4" drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight with a 6-foot long pipe over it. Every single crank bolt removal has been easy for me, with almost all taking about 5-10 minutes.

**kouks** · 02-20-2017, 07:16 PM

Impact Gun is the way to go. Mine took up to 1 minute of constant hammering, then I used a 4-5 foot bar, then more hammering, then the bar again and it came off. Heat may work, but the bolt is softer steel and may go plastic on you. Soaking some Liquid Wrench may help too.

**absolutezero273** · 02-20-2017, 07:53 PM

I couldn't fit my impact gun between the core support and the bolt. I soaked it with a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid and a Craftsman 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 6 ft piece of black pipe over it.

**Sleepyhead97** · 02-20-2017, 09:31 PM

I have never had to use an impact **flexes** but my friends swear by one. Harbor freight has the "Earthquake" apparently blows the doors off snap-on.

**Nrphlly1** · 02-21-2017, 06:30 AM

I've done this every time, put a high torque breaker bar or ratchet on it, wedged against the ground, DISCONNECT ALL COILS for no spark and bump the starter. Jesus will loosen it for you lol.

**toomann** · 02-21-2017, 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny

It's weird that you're having so much trouble with yours... I've gotten 8 of these crank bolts loose on a variety of vehicles (540i/740i/740il/Range Rover/X5) with no problems at all. My method has always been the same: PB Blaster on the bolt the night before, and then I use a crank holding tool along with a 3/4" drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight with a 6-foot long pipe over it. Every single crank bolt removal has been easy for me, with almost all taking about 5-10 minutes.

Mine was easy as well. 5 minute job - I was expecting the worst though!

**clumsy** · 02-22-2017, 10:48 PM

I tried 3 different impact wrenches, 1 electric (dewalt) 2 ingersol rand air powered and couldn't get it to budge. spray it with PB blaster, let it soak for a couple of hours. Then I used a 6ft extension and a 3/4 breaker bar and bolt came out easy with very little force. Just for reference, I did it by myself and I only weigh 145 lbs.

**dannyzabolotny** · 02-23-2017, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by clumsy

Just for reference, I did it by myself and I only weigh 145 lbs.

I guess maybe that's why all of mine came out so easily... I'm 6'0" and weigh 200 lbs, so I exert a greater force without even trying.

**Aitch** · 02-23-2017, 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny

I guess maybe that's why all of mine came out so easily... I'm 6'0" and weigh 200 lbs, so I exert a greater force without even trying.

*looks at JB with breaker bar in hand*

*JB backs itself out and falls on the ground in surrender*

**SergeBMW** · 03-04-2017, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by Aitch

*looks at JB with breaker bar in hand*

*JB backs itself out and falls on the ground in surrender*

Soo I decided to try again afte letting it soak with PB with my 1/2 breaker bar. I snapped my new tool

I put nearly all my weight into it and im 220lbs thinking just giving it my all may loosen it. THat shit is not a Jesus bolt but a fucking SATAN Bolt

My impact gun and a borrowed impact gun can barely remove tight wheel lugs without me first loosening it with my breaker bar. I may be wrong but in my case I doubt an impact will work. Trying to avoid having to add tranny fluid from anything lost by removing the radiator.

**dannyzabolotny** · 03-04-2017, 02:36 PM

A 1/2" breaker bar is too wimpy for the Jesus bolt. I recommend getting a 3/4" breaker bar and a 3/4" socket. I ended up buying my breaker bar at a Harbor Freight and I had to buy the socket at a tractor supply store because no hardware stores carried 3/4" drive sockets.

**SergeBMW** · 03-04-2017, 04:05 PM

Dam and I thought 1/2 inch was more than enough.

Just purchased a 3/4 breaker bar and impact socket from Amazon. Thinking of maybe getting the 300ftlb torque wrench from Amazon too, $130 though :\ I could just do it the old 75NM then 60 60 30 way with what I have.

Anyone know the cost of the Satan bolt from the dealership itself? They are online for $23 for BMW one but id rather not pay the shipping.

**mooll** · 03-04-2017, 04:19 PM

still struggling ? i saw some weak guy use a 1/2 " breaker bar slipped inside a floor jack handle (used as a larger breaker bar ) and the bolt popped right out.

**SergeBMW** · 03-04-2017, 04:23 PM

Im telling you man, something isnt right with this one. It is frozen in there. I hope I can get it out with my newly ordered tools

Originally Posted by mooll

still struggling ? i saw some weak guy use a 1/2 " breaker bar slipped inside a floor jack handle (used as a larger breaker bar ) and the bolt popped right out.

**dannyzabolotny** · 03-05-2017, 01:28 AM

You don't need a crazy torque wrench, it's a torque to yield bolt that relies on an initial torque + the angle to work properly.

**SergeBMW** · 03-05-2017, 01:58 AM

Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny

You don't need a crazy torque wrench, it's a torque to yield bolt that relies on an initial torque + the angle to work properly.

You are right but it seems some updated copies of the TIS manual will show a simple "torque to" instead of the original torque plus angle. Ill just stick to the original way, its just that this is how I got into this mess after I torqued it with the 75NM then the angles.

**Trasportador** · 03-05-2017, 05:16 AM

Get a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and needed adapter. Harbor freight sells a good one withva slim handle that can fit inside a jack handle. This is the setup you need. Sustained hard pulls will break the bolt loose. You may need to get a 220 lb or so buddy to help