Oil Change procedure

[tvjake2]

So, I changed my oil in the '89 635CSi and found it an interesting experience. I've changed oil in many cars before but this was a bit different. I tried to do some research on this forum and online before I started but none of the info was all in one place. So I thought I'd post something for reference for others. This is the way I did it. Jump in if you want to add to it. I wrote this as a beginner explanation, those of you with even a little experience will find it over explanatory.

What you'll need:

• 17mm box end wrench, 17mm socket and driver
• new oil filter with gasket and crush washers.

oil filter.jpg

• oil catch pan, preferably with screen

oil drain pan.jpg

• jack stand(s)
• jack (of your choice)

Procedure

1. Open the hood (or bonnet).
2. Jack up the car on the right side high enough so you can slide under the air dam on the right front side. After you jack it up use a jack stand for safety. Unscrew the side cover on the oil catch pan and slide the pan, on it's side, under the oil pan bolt located on the right side of the engine oil pan. Position the pan so the it is pretty much centered under the oil pan bolt. Unscrew the bolt using the 17mm socket driver, loosen the last few turns by hand and let the bolt drop onto the screen.
3. While the oil is draining move to the top of the engine and locate the filter canister on the left side of the engine. oil cannister.jpg
4. Place a drip pan to catch dripping oil from the canister and housing. Unscrew the canister retaining bolt using the box end wrench while holding onto the canister. Once the canister is free from the bolt it is pretty difficult to pull out through the top (It is impossible in my '89) so I gently lowered the canister to the ground and reached under the car and pulled it out. It's full of oil so be careful.
5. Under the car replace the oil drain pan bolt using the new crush washer from the filter box. The bolt should be made tight but not too tight.
6. Remove the oil catch pan and pour the oil from the canister housing into the pan. I placed the filter on the screen to drain.
7. Install new filter into the canister housing and replace the canister using the reverse of #3. This is a bit fiddly to get the bolt started. Make sure the retaining bolt is pulling the canister up into the housing. Tighten enough so that you see no rubber gasket in between the canister and the mounting housing.
8. Fill the engine with about 6 quarts of oil through the valve cover oil cap on the left rear of the valve cover.
9. Start engine and make sure the oil light goes out after about 10 seconds, check for leaks at the oil pan bolt and around the oil canister. Run engine for a few minutes.
10. Turn off engine and check oil level.
11. Recycle oil at a local auto parts store. O'reilly and Autozone have this service.

Time for a beer.

[88m53453]

on the 88/89 you can partially fill the canister with oil after inserting the filter to aid in faster oil pressure after changing the oil filter. Every little bit helps

[wjtesquire]

Revised instruction #4!

4. Place a drip pan to catch dripping oil from the canister and housing. Unscrew the canister retaining bolt using the box end wrench while holding onto the canister. Be shocked at how quickly the dirty oil runs down your arm and all the way to your armpit. Verify no children are within earshot and cuss until you feel better. Throw canister into nearest garbage can and order a spin on oil filter adapter from Bert Poliakoff.

[Bert Poliakoff]

Get a spin oil filter adapter. What is shown here is one of 3 differednt styles of canister. One bolts from the top and two bolt from the bottom. One of the canisters that bolt from the bottom has a 4" diameter. The other two canisters have a 3.5" diameter. The filter head itself is different on all three.

[tvjake2]

Nice addition to the procedure, if you are under the car. Having long arms helps set the cannister on the ground before it falls over and sends oil in many places it should never go.

[dm635]

I set something under the car to set the canister on after unbolting from the top. Then grab the canister from the bottom. I have yet to spill the canister yet, it is barely balanced and could fall over easily and make a big mess. On reinstall I set the canister back up on what ever I used and lift it up from the top. And as listed above I also add oil to the canister/filter and roll it so the filter soaks up some oil and doesn't start up dry. Do not add too much oil where it gets inside the threads. You'll hydro lock the canister and crack it if not careful.

[n2bimmer]

Thanks for the instructions.

[88m53453]

If you have an old style filter, the housing would be metal as vs aluminum for the new ones. The old filter was a PM2106, the new was a PM2433...at least that was the numbers from 20 plus years ago . The metal housings were also used on the e12 530. They were a pain due to the spring and washer plate inside. The older style can be swapped for the newer easier to change newer style as long as you have the complete assembly