Just rebuilt VANOS - replaced almost everything but still getting VANOS code D4

[Musicisair]

I installed new Beisan Systems seals and rattle repair kit, a brand new OE solenoid switch, OE oil line, and OE VANOS Solenoid Control Piston.

I'm still getting code 16 - D4 which my PEAKE tool says is "VANOS mechanically stuck".

What else do I need to replace‽ What could I have missed?

p.s., I also just installed new OE gaskets for the VANOS, NEW OE valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, new spark plug boots, new upper chain guide, and a new upper chain tensioner.

[Braymond141]

It's installed wrong. Redo the install with the cams and sprockets in their correct positions. Do NOT mechanically set the exhaust sprocket like all the guides say. You need use the air pressure method to run the vanos back and forth and then lock the exhaust side down. Manually doing it with the lolipop tool leaves too much room for error.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=angrrw9TaRc

You want to lock the exhaust side down when power is OFF on the solenoid. Run it on/off several times before locking the exhaust down. If you are not seeing the proper travel, install the vanos again, it was wrong. The cam chain tensioner must be released and not pinned down during this.

[Musicisair]

It's installed wrong. Redo the install with the cams and sprockets in their correct positions. Do NOT mechanically set the exhaust sprocket like all the guides say. You need use the air pressure method to run the vanos back and forth and then lock the exhaust side down. Manually doing it with the lolipop tool leaves too much room for error.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=angrrw9TaRc

You want to lock the exhaust side down when power is OFF on the solenoid. Run it on/off several times before locking the exhaust down. If you are not seeing the proper travel, install the vanos again, it was wrong. The cam chain tensioner must be released and not pinned down during this.

Ah, bummer. Thanks for the advice. Is there a foolproof way to set it without an air compressor?

[Musicisair]

I dug in and re-did the VANOS install this weekend, paying extra attention to the VANOS step - even taking video of the install to watch in slow-mo to be sure the first tooth engaged. I spend about 30 minutes installing, uninstalling, then reinstalling to get super familiar with how an improperly installed VANOS looks and feels during installation vs a properly installed VANOS.

It seems to have worked!

However, I now get a flickering low-oil-pressure indicator light on the dash at idle after warm up. I just ordered a new oil-pressure switch... hopefully that's the problem.

[jakermac]

I dug in and re-did the VANOS install this weekend, paying extra attention to the VANOS step - even taking video of the install to watch in slow-mo to be sure the first tooth engaged. I spend about 30 minutes installing, uninstalling, then reinstalling to get super familiar with how an improperly installed VANOS looks and feels during installation vs a properly installed VANOS.

It seems to have worked!

However, I now get a flickering low-oil-pressure indicator light on the dash at idle after warm up. I just ordered a new oil-pressure switch... hopefully that's the problem.

Congrats on sorting the Vanos. The low oil pressure is a known issue with these engines. I'd be surprised if its an issue with the pressure sensor. What weight oil are you running? I run 15/40 synthetic and my engine has many mods for oiling so I rarely see less than about 17-18psi at idle (Autometer gauge). I think the sensor is supposed to trigger at 7psi. Many people live with the flickering light, knowing that as soon as they're off idle, the pressure is high enough to adequately protect the engine. There are many things that could cause the low pressure. A little high on the bearing clearance, a tired oil pump, a leaky pump/pickup tube joint, a cracked oil pickup tube, forgetting to install the piston oil spray nozzles, etc... Some internet lore alleges that the M3 owners manual states that some flickering is normal.

[Musicisair]

Congrats on sorting the Vanos. The low oil pressure is a known issue with these engines. I'd be surprised if its an issue with the pressure sensor. What weight oil are you running? I run 15/40 synthetic and my engine has many mods for oiling so I rarely see less than about 17-18psi at idle (Autometer gauge). I think the sensor is supposed to trigger at 7psi. Many people live with the flickering light, knowing that as soon as they're off idle, the pressure is high enough to adequately protect the engine. There are many things that could cause the low pressure. A little high on the bearing clearance, a tired oil pump, a leaky pump/pickup tube joint, a cracked oil pickup tube, forgetting to install the piston oil spray nozzles, etc... Some internet lore alleges that the M3 owners manual states that some flickering is normal.

I read on the forums that it can often just be the oil pressure switch and to start there.

I'm running BMW 5w30 right now, recommended by the dealer... which may just be too light for Florida (it's a bit warm today). The switch is easier and cheaper than an oil change (I've only got 15 miles on the oil), so I'll try it first.

The car didn't have this oil light flicker problem before I changed the oil (no clue what was in there previously) and fixed the VANOS.

[Musicisair]

Well... I spoke too soon. The code is back. I would have bet my title that I timed the VANOS properly! (And I still think that I did install the VANOS on to the intake sprocket perfectly.)

However, after reviewing a bunch of pictures I took I am thinking that the exhaust's primary timing chain sprocket is not in the correct position. See photo:

IMG_20170219_170317.jpg

The crank is at TDC and the camshaft locking blocks are installed and flush when this picture was taken.

Could this be the cause of my VANOS mechanically stuck issue? If so, how? How does improper alignment of the primary exhaust sprocket effect timing?

[Braymond141]

Well... I spoke too soon. The code is back. I would have bet my title that I timed the VANOS properly! (And I still think that I did install the VANOS on to the intake sprocket perfectly.)

However, after reviewing a bunch of pictures I took I am thinking that the exhaust's primary timing chain sprocket is not in the correct position. See photo:

IMG_20170219_170317.jpg

The crank is at TDC and the camshaft locking blocks are installed and flush when this picture was taken.

Could this be the cause of my VANOS mechanically stuck issue? If so, how? How does improper alignment of the primary exhaust sprocket effect timing?

Follow the Dr Vanos Stage II instructions. It's all common sense, just take note that when they show the exhaust sprocket arrows they are parrallel to the head... and your motor is titled in the bay.

Do not lock the exhaust sprocket down (leave the 4 e-torx bolts threaded in but loose) until you have used the air and solenoid activation method to run the VANOS back and forth. Lock it down only after completing several cycles and finishing with air pressure applied, solenoid power OFF.

[bkl89]

I had this same dreadful code and it drove me nuts. I had to reset the cam timing to make it go away. I must have done this at least 6 times and the code still kept coning back on. The instructions posted by Bramon141 make no sense to me. I bought Dr vanos stage II and talked with them on the phone a few times when I had this code, they said you don't need air pressure to cycle the vanos. You can do it by hand just as easily. All that you need to do is verify the piston moves in and out without binding and verify its fully bottomed out before inserting. I have never heard of your air pressure cycling method before torqing the bolts and I read every cam timing instruction available online and watched all videos on youtube. They said also don't use the dummy tensioner tool. I will tell you what worked for me. My primary timing was off, not the vanos timing.This will also cause the vanos timing to be off and throw the code. I believe the "dummy" chain tensioner tool (that the manual says I have to use because the hydraulic tensioner doesn't apply enough tension to set the primary timing) wasn't applying enough tension with the factory recommended 7 inch lb to set the primary timing. So I set the timing (by torquing the EX torx bolts with the cam blocks locked down and the crank pinned at tdc) with the hydraulic tensioner installed instead of dummy tensioner. The spring in the hydraulic tensioner has enough pressure to properly set the timing. When installing the vanos make sure to rotate the gear far as possible with the lollipop tool.. Also make sure the vanos gear is pushed ALL the way in while you are installing and trying to catch the first closest tooth.

Also your oil light is on because 5w30 is WAY too thin for a S52. They run best with 5w40 or 10w40. Many people including myself swear by Rotella T6 5w40 in their e36 M. All M engines are designed to run thicker oils then the standard engines. The E46 S54 even uses 10w60.

[gingerELITE]

I'll also add that you need to make sure the slotted holes on both the exhaust and intake cam gears are aligned with one another. Meaning when one is centred the other should be too, and they max out at either end of the slots together.

[Braymond141]

I had this same dreadful code and it drove me nuts. I had to reset the cam timing to make it go away. I must have done this at least 6 times and the code still kept coning back on. The instructions posted by Bramon141 make no sense to me. I bought Dr vanos stage II and talked with them on the phone a few times when I had this code, they said you don't need air pressure to cycle the vanos. You can do it by hand just as easily. All that you need to do is verify the piston moves in and out without binding and verify its fully bottomed out before inserting. I have never heard of your air pressure cycling method before torqing the bolts and I read every cam timing instruction available online and watched all videos on youtube. They said also don't use the dummy tensioner tool. I will tell you what worked for me. My primary timing was off, not the vanos timing.This will also cause the vanos timing to be off and throw the code. I believe the "dummy" chain tensioner tool (that the manual says I have to use because the hydraulic tensioner doesn't apply enough tension to set the primary timing) wasn't applying enough tension with the factory recommended 7 inch lb to set the primary timing. So I set the timing (by torquing the EX torx bolts with the cam blocks locked down and the crank pinned at tdc) with the hydraulic tensioner installed instead of dummy tensioner. The spring in the hydraulic tensioner has enough pressure to properly set the timing. When installing the vanos make sure to rotate the gear far as possible with the lollipop tool.. Also make sure the vanos gear is pushed ALL the way in while you are installing and trying to catch the first closest tooth.

Also your oil light is on because 5w30 is WAY too thin for a S52. They run best with 5w40 or 10w40. Many people including myself swear by Rotella T6 5w40 in their e36 M. All M engines are designed to run thicker oils then the standard engines. The E46 S54 even uses 10w60.

Yet you had to do it 6 times for it to be right... Don't you think I went through all the hand install nonsense too? I didn't say it was impossible, it just isn't repeatable like using air is. Not once have I ever put a vanos back together and had a problem using the air method. I've done quite a few.

5w30 is factory fill for the S52 and perfectly fine. His oil light is likely the issue of poor idle due to the incorrectly installed VANOS. Original spec for the S54 was 5w30. 10w60 was used in an attempt to resolve rod bearing issues.

[Musicisair]

Yet you had to do it 6 times for it to be right... Don't you think I went through all the hand install nonsense too? I didn't say it was impossible, it just isn't repeatable like using air is. Not once have I ever put a vanos back together and had a problem using the air method. I've done quite a few.

5w30 is factory fill for the S52 and perfectly fine. His oil light is likely the issue of poor idle due to the incorrectly installed VANOS. Original spec for the S54 was 5w30. 10w60 was used in an attempt to resolve rod bearing issues.

I was hoping you had a suggestion that would accomplish the same thing as the air compressor method, as I don't have one. I'll ask around to see if I can borrow from someone.

Are you saying that using the air compressor method my VANOS movement would have been out of range (< 8.5mm) because of the incorrectly installed primary exhaust sprocket? I'm just trying to understand how it all works.

About the oil, https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...tion-questions actually says the '98s used 15W-40 Mineral Based oil from the factory. According to my car's manual it says I should use 5W-30 only in ambient air temps up to 50 °F. For ambient air temps -14 °F and higher I should use 15W-40. I'm in Florida... so I should probably use a thicker oil. Right?

[Musicisair]

I had this same dreadful code and it drove me nuts. I had to reset the cam timing to make it go away. I must have done this at least 6 times and the code still kept coning back on. The instructions posted by Bramon141 make no sense to me. I bought Dr vanos stage II and talked with them on the phone a few times when I had this code, they said you don't need air pressure to cycle the vanos. You can do it by hand just as easily. All that you need to do is verify the piston moves in and out without binding and verify its fully bottomed out before inserting. I have never heard of your air pressure cycling method before torqing the bolts and I read every cam timing instruction available online and watched all videos on youtube. They said also don't use the dummy tensioner tool. I will tell you what worked for me. My primary timing was off, not the vanos timing.This will also cause the vanos timing to be off and throw the code. I believe the "dummy" chain tensioner tool (that the manual says I have to use because the hydraulic tensioner doesn't apply enough tension to set the primary timing) wasn't applying enough tension with the factory recommended 7 inch lb to set the primary timing. So I set the timing (by torquing the EX torx bolts with the cam blocks locked down and the crank pinned at tdc) with the hydraulic tensioner installed instead of dummy tensioner. The spring in the hydraulic tensioner has enough pressure to properly set the timing. When installing the vanos make sure to rotate the gear far as possible with the lollipop tool.. Also make sure the vanos gear is pushed ALL the way in while you are installing and trying to catch the first closest tooth.

Also your oil light is on because 5w30 is WAY too thin for a S52. They run best with 5w40 or 10w40. Many people including myself swear by Rotella T6 5w40 in their e36 M. All M engines are designed to run thicker oils then the standard engines. The E46 S54 even uses 10w60.

I have the Bentley manual and it says to do the air compressor method to verify correct timing. Bramon141's instructions are pretty much spot on for what the manual says.

I'm still confident that the VANOS was installed correctly (on the first available tooth) this time and that something else is causing the VANOS code.

I think that you are right about the lower chain tensioner exerting enough pressure on it's own, as I tried to push the chain tighter by hand while the lower chain tensioner was still installed and it wouldn't budget in the slightest. My tensioner only has 15 miles on it though, so maybe it is a bit stiffer than most and wouldn't usually supply enough tension after 10s of thousand of miles.

[Braymond141]

Air compressor method is used to confirm proper travel... but the primary reason I'm telling you to do it is so you lock the exhaust sprocket down with the VANOS in the correct position. For whatever reason, using the lolipop tool to move that exhaust sprocket back (by back I mean rotated towards the exhaust) isn't consistent. Dr Vanos' guide is correct up until he says to lock it down with the lolipop tool.

Just remember to have the air on constantly and power the solenoid ON OFF ON OFF ON and then OFF never losing air pressure. That last off position is when you want to bolt the exhaust sprocket down (the 4 etorx).

In a week or two I will be doing a VANOS overhaul on a newly acquired M3. I will record my procedure.

[Musicisair]

Air compressor method is used to confirm proper travel... but the primary reason I'm telling you to do it is so you lock the exhaust sprocket down with the VANOS in the correct position. For whatever reason, using the lolipop tool to move that exhaust sprocket back (by back I mean rotated towards the exhaust) isn't consistent. Dr Vanos' guide is correct up until he says to lock it down with the lolipop tool.

Just remember to have the air on constantly and power the solenoid ON OFF ON OFF ON and then OFF never losing air pressure. That last off position is when you want to bolt the exhaust sprocket down (the 4 etorx).

In a week or two I will be doing a VANOS overhaul on a newly acquired M3. I will record my procedure.

Will do. Interestingly, my check engine light turned off today. I think even if it stays off I'll redo the timing soon anyway, once I get an air compressor and the proper fittings.

[ben4bama]

OPS trips at 17psi

[Musicisair]

OPS trips at 17psi

I thought it was 7psi.

[jakermac]

I thought it was 7psi.

OPS trips at 17psi

Its definitely not 17psi.

[Braymond141]

I thought it was 7psi.

Correct. I still feel it is related to poor idle due to the incorrect install. Don't stress the oil pressure right now. Fix the known issue.

[Musicisair]

Correct. I still feel it is related to poor idle due to the incorrect install. Don't stress the oil pressure right now. Fix the known issue.

Sadly, the oil pressure switch I ordered ended up being a knockoff coolant temp sensor for a VW/Audi (in a sealed bag with a BMW part number... shame on them!). :-/

IMG_20170223_203752302.jpg

[bkl89]

The oil pressure issue is related to your oil being too thin. There are tons of posts on this forum about oil, you will see everyone with a E36 M runs oil thicker than 5w30. Also when you get the air fittings to cycle your vanos (I used a cut a old vanos hose in half and used a 5/16 hose barb to make one) make sure you apply 12V to the vanos solenoid with the correct polarity. I accidently reversed the polarity and burned up my solenoid.

[Braymond141]

The oil pressure issue is related to your oil being too thin. There are tons of posts on this forum about oil, you will see everyone with a E36 M runs oil thicker than 5w30. Also when you get the air fittings to cycle your vanos (I used a cut a old vanos hose in half and used a 5/16 hose barb to make one) make sure you apply 12V to the vanos solenoid with the correct polarity. I accidently reversed the polarity and burned up my solenoid.

Again 5w30 is just fine. Many of us have run it for many many years. He has a known engine running issue. Fixing that will get the oil pressure back to where it was.