Planning on buying an e30 325e soon...

[QuestMCoupe]

as a daily driver, is there anything I should look for when purchasing one? What should I expect to pay? I've seen many nice ones for around $3000, is that a good deal. Thanks in advance for any help.

-Joe

[Ben Carufel]

Buy mine Joe...its for sale!

You can expect to pay $2200/OBO ...

[QuestMCoupe]

LOL, thanks Ben but Im looking for a white or black one. I found a white one with a rebuilt motor that has 1500 miles on it for $3750...too much? I'm going to go look at a couple this Wednesday.

[MR 325]

WAYYYYYYYYY too expensive for an e

Don't pay over about 2000 for a m20b27 powered car... Any price over that, it better be a 325i or 325is

[wludavid]

LOL, thanks Ben but Im looking for a white or black one. I found a white one with a rebuilt motor that has 1500 miles on it for $3750...too much? I'm going to go look at a couple this Wednesday.

The eta motor is the most bulletproof thing on that car. Be wary of rebuilt motors on eta's - often it means that it was done following a timing belt break, and people who don't change timing belts probably don't do the other maintainance either. Look for something with nice paint and no rust. Check the feel of the brakes, look for interesting electrical glitches and warning lights - not that it means there's necessarily a huge problem, but it's something to be aware of. Check out this thread over at pelican parts for a quick rundown of warning light troubles.

No doubt the eta is a fun around-town driver that is fairly economical for a 6-cyl. But don't go into it thinking it will be totally trouble-free. (Unless you happen to find a real cherry.) I love mine, but I'm glad it's car #2 in the stable. There have been too many days when it wasn't quite ready to get me to work.

[QuestMCoupe]

Thanks guys. The 325 with the rebuilt motor was actually a 1991 325I. I'll keep looking around.

[QuestMCoupe]

Can someone tell me what the difference is between 325e, 325I, 325is in the e30s? Thanks.

[wludavid]

Can someone tell me what the difference is between 325e, 325I, 325is in the e30s? Thanks.

Read this short article.

http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/differences.html

If the car is in good shape, $3750 for a 1991 325i is a reasonable price.

[Ben Carufel]

No doubt the eta is a fun around-town driver that is fairly economical for a 6-cyl. But don't go into it thinking it will be totally trouble-free. (Unless you happen to find a real cherry.) I love mine, but I'm glad it's car #2 in the stable. There have been too many days when it wasn't quite ready to get me to work.

I disagree. I think E30's with problems are the minority.

I drove my first car, a 1989 325i with 197,000 miles when I bought her, for 11 months and 20,000 miles with not one single failiure. Sure, I replaced wear parts (brakes, rotors, LCA bushings), but I was never left stranded by her.

My current E30, a 1985 325e, was purchased with 198,000 miles on her several months after I sold my first E30. She also has never let me down -- though I've again replaced normal wear items. There has never been one serious or semi-serious breakdown.

My point is that E30 reliability - or lack thereof - is a myth in my book.

Just my .02 (knocking on wood).

Oh, and it does help that both cars were purchased from owners who kept meticulous mechanical maintainace specs.

[wludavid]

I should clarify - in all but one case, the lack of readiness of the car was caused by me working on the car and not having enough time to finish it up before I had to go somewhere. In that one case, it was a clutch failure that I didn't recognize the early warning signs - then my mechanic took a month (!!) to fix it. What I was trying to get across is that a ~15 year old car is going to need more attention than a newer car. Replacing and fixing normal wear-and-tear parts is going to happen more often than a newer honda or toyota for example. I wouldn't recommend my car to my sister, for example. You have to like thinking about the car as well as working on it and driving it to really get utility out of it.

Yeah, and the PO of my car liked to think he took good care of it. I believed him too. Too bad I've spent the last 6 months and ~$1000 doing "retroactive maintainance." I got a good deal on it, and the paint is new, so I guess I shouldn't complain, but when he said, "The brakes work, you just gotta push down real hard" it should have clued me in.

[sprucas]

check all normal things - suspension, bushes, panels, lights on dash etc

but i would also definately check brake discs and pads - i just replaced mine and cost AU$600

also check the injectors and make sure no leaks - easy to tell if you get fuel smell in car when you are driving along - and leaky injector is not very healthy for economy or for engine if it sparks and lights up

[QuestMCoupe]

Thanks guys. I'm still looking for a good one.

[bimmerkid86]

I've got a 1988 325 and Im looking to sell for about $1500. Its in great condition! The front lower right control arm needs to be replaced but other than that its great. I have a B&M short shifter on it and an aftermarket air intake. Getting ready to redo the exhuast. I had it straight piped for a while but Im getting tired of all the noise. The engine has 37K miles on it, we had it re-built because during a flood, water got in the tail pipe and caused the engine to throw a rod...let me know if you have any questions.

[QuestMCoupe]

PM sent.

[bimmerkid86]

Here are some pics...they aren't great, but you get the idea!