That chart you posted makes no logical sense on a turbo charged motor. It makes no reference to displacement or air density as to how they came up with those numbers. The only thing of importance when sizing piping between the turbo and the motor is the air velocity through the piping, which is determined by the displacement, rpm, and volumetric efficiency. When you pressurize the intake none of those variables change, you just increase the air density. So if the size is correct for an NA motor it will also be correct for 25 lbs or 50 lbs of boost.
Brad,
Is that the TB that you got from me? If so I fussed with it for a couple weeks when I 1st installed it, and got it working 100% perfectly. I'm not sure where the problem could be coming from. Could the bolts attaching it to the IM be unevenly torqued and twisting the TB at all? I played with the throttle stop screw fairly extensively, and when 1st installed, took it off once or twice to "adjust" the butterfly as well as creating a "Honda" like seal between the butterfly and the bore (thin coat of paint between the butterfly edge and the TB bore that then gets "broken" by opening the butterfly).
If that's not my old TB, ignore all of the above.
Yours was an OBD1, I traded it for an OBD2 version.
Maybe with the gutted shaft there is not enough strength so there is some movement with boost pressure. If you think that is a possibility, could you swap in a full shaft?
It could be a shaft issue. The VAC 70 mm is not to be used for FI, it doesn’t even have a shaft.
Last edited by chikinhed; 04-27-2019 at 06:54 PM.
I have developed an exhaust tick at the back of the engine. I just confirmed that it’s at #6 exhaust port so the turbo and manifold have to come back off
Use the thicker OBD1 gaskets.
I begrudgingly removed the turbo, down pipe and Steed to to fix the exhaust leak at #6 exhaust port. Once the Steed was off I could clearly see what the issue was. The Steed flange had warped. I had the surface machined and the machinist had to remove 0.085” to get it flat again. There was no chance of the gasket sealing with it like that. I will now do a pre installation inspection of the turbo manifold flange before installing each time...... I’ve learnt my lesson, I’m not looking forward to re installing everything again.
Last edited by chikinhed; 05-05-2019 at 11:21 AM.
Looks awesome! Whats the reason for the half moon cut out? The factory speed sensor will go in that?
Last edited by 3literheater; 05-05-2019 at 11:17 PM.
Yup, the e46 M3 cover doesn’t have a fill plug or a speed sensor.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
I picked up some OBD1 exhaust gaskets. They may be slightly thicker but the port size is quite a bit smaller. The gasket would be exposed and unsupported on the manifold side which I’d be concerned about it being burnt and bits going through the turbo. The OBD2 exhaust gaskets have big enough ports so that the fire ring is compressed from both sides. In the pic below, the top is OBD1. The bottom pic shows the OBD2 on top of the OBD1.
Last edited by chikinhed; 05-08-2019 at 07:35 PM.
What do those gaskets look like on the cylinder head and exhaust manifold?
The ports on the head are about the size of the OBD1 gaskets and the ports on the Steed manifold are about the size of the OBD2 gaskets.
I'm running the OBD1 gaskets with the Steed. They are slightly bigger than my ported M54 exhaust ports.
I've had what most would consider to be obscene EGTs running high EBP and nitrous....and the gaskets haven't shown any signs of fatigue.
I'd be leery of not having the compression ring compressed in a sandwich.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
I know that you are measuring EGT very close to the port but #6 runner is not very long. What turbo was that high EGT with?
Max EGT (TIT) for the EFR is 1742°F.
Last edited by chikinhed; 05-10-2019 at 09:16 PM.
If Adam was running a smaller turbo at the time and nos, the egt may be higher.
Well, I got some stuff done....
—Removed down pipe, turbo & exhaust manifold, fixed warped manifold flange and reinstalled everything
—Routed stainless steel hard line from turbo to muffler valve
—Replaced transmission shifter seal
—Removed Dynomax 3.5” in/out muffler, swapped in modified Magnaflow muffler with valve, 3.5” in/dual 2.5” out, looks stock, valve opens at 7 psi boost
—Removed Driveshaft Shop one pice driveshaft, installed modified stock driveshaft with new guibo and bolts
—Tighten power steering lines
—Hooked up oil cooler and changed oil filter
—Installed Zeitronix ECA-2 and connected to ZT-2 and display
—Replaced drivers door striker/switch
All that took many hours, I can’t wait to drive it.
#5 and #1 were the hottest. #6 would be up there too if I had an accurate reading...however, I had a placement problem with it that I thought was a sensor fault.....but then found on tear-down that the tip wasn't in the exhaust runner at all. (I set the height of the sensors from the exterior of the manifold, without consideration for the bend that #6 has in the port)
GTX3076R on 1.06 twin scroll
I always wished I had gone with the GTX3576R.....
Nothin’ like taking the car off jack stands and immediately doing a 400 km road trip through the mountains. The muffler and driveshaft swap are awesome. At highway speeds I had 75-80 dB (iPhone app) in the cabin, no drone
and no driveshaft buzz.
I put another 400 km on it again today all on twisties. So much fun!
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