Last edited by chikinhed; 03-06-2019 at 02:51 AM.
Going top mount just exchanges these issues for those issues imho, but your right then I could use both.
Can you take a picture of the oil pump chain tensioner and explain the mod and the part source — Euro S52?
What ATI damper is that? Tensioner looks different too
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
What rpm are you spinning in this?
-sold...replaced by turbo e36
7200 rpm....... for now.
The goal has been longevity so far.
I gave my car head tonight.
And some new exhaust studs.
I’m using the 11 mm ARP L19 head studs again but I’m going with 85 lbft instead of the 105 lbft that I did last time. All the head studs are torqued and I’ll recheck them all tomorrow.
I like that I’m slowly regaining space back in my garage as the parts go back on.
Last edited by chikinhed; 03-30-2019 at 02:30 AM.
Always found it easier to set cams while engine was outside the car. Any reason why you waited after block was back in?
It’s just easier to get the block in.
The initial setting of the cams will be with the blocks. I’ll heat cycle it, then take the cams back out to retorque the head and then degree the cams to my favorite settings.
Great progress! Are you the one who changed from a turbosmart EWG to a Tial because the turbo smarts are inadequate on the steeds? Just wondering because im rebuilding everything also.
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96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
I did switch from the Turbosmart to the Tial. You need to notch the Tial valve seat bottom or trim the divider on the Steed. I notched the valve seat bottom and haven’t had any issues.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
I just found a great article on how to set up the Turbosmart IWG75 that explains the set up procedure way better than the instructions that came with it. I had been experimenting trying to troubleshoot my boost control issues and since I still have access to the IWG75 (barely) I think I’ll finally resolve the issues.
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/how-t...in-turbo-duty/
Anymore info on the water injection pre compressor. Is that mounted to the silicon coupling?
The WI nozzle holder just sits in the coupler up against the turbo.
I’ve dressed the two supports so that they are symmetrical airfoil in shape, chamfered the the nozzle hole on the spray side for clearance to the spray cone pattern and TIG welded four raised bumps around the outer circumference to help stabilize it in the coupler. The turbo inlet tube has a short piece of 1/4” tubing welded though the side of the bend at an angle that the WI 4 mm nylon tubing passes through to prevent chafing and provide a easy way to seal up the potential unfiltered air leak.
Last night I got the turbo intake, driveshaft, down pipe and exhaust all installed. I also installed the cams and trays but the cams still need to be timed.
I’m going to see if I can make a tool that will allow me to torque the head studs with the cams and trays installed. Fingers crossed.
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