Replacement speakers that fit

[ArkansasTed]

I decided to upgrade my stereo system in my Roadster. I ended up with a JVC KD-988BTS head unit and used a set of Rockford Fosgate Prime R14X2 4" speakers behind the seats. I also got a pair of Sound Ordinance P-52CB component speakers for the kick panels. But here's the strange thing....Crutchfield website states that the Sound Ordinance speakers are the ONLY speakers that fit the Z3 Roadster. But, they do not fit. They fit, but the mounting tabs don't line up with the screw holes. The only way to make them work is to drill new holes in the metal...which really isn't that big of a deal....but....they are not a direct fit. The factory kick panel speakers are 2 ohm and the Sound Ordinance replacements are 4 ohm.

Now, Crutchfield states that the Rockford Fosgate speakers "Do Not Fit" the Roadster.....BUT they fit perfectly. And sound great I might add (for a 4" speaker), better than the factory speakers for sure. Plus...the factory speakers are 4 ohm...as are the Rockford Fosgate.

The kick panel speakers use "tabs" to connect to the speakers...but the small speakers behind the seats are hard wired (soldered). This is the easiest way I found to hold the speaker in place as I soldered the wires onto the speaker terminals. I inserted one of the screws thru the speaker tab and screwed it to the mounting hole to hold the speaker in place while wiring it up.

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Got to finish wiring up the harness and install the head unit tomorrow.

[z3forlife]

I went with MB Quart pro 5.25 components first that fit the hole pattern perfectly and the tweeter is the size of the stock midrange. Fit in the door pod perfectly. Unfortunately one of the kick panel speakers had a defect and I replaced them with alpine. They also matched the stock pattern. When you finally replace the stock amp you'll realize the true value of your upgrade.

[dancingbear]

I went with MB Quart pro 5.25 components first that fit the hole pattern perfectly and the tweeter is the size of the stock midrange. Fit in the door pod perfectly. Unfortunately one of the kick panel speakers had a defect and I replaced them with alpine. They also matched the stock pattern. When you finally replace the stock amp you'll realize the true value of your upgrade.

A bit off topic here, but anyone who has a Rick Griffin scarab avatar probably knows where I am coming from. I currently have a 2002 M Coupe. The stereo is horrible. I tracked down some old threads, stating to try and negate the 'skipping' of the cd you can add some Styrofoam under it. Anyhow I plan on enjoying the car for years, and as I have young kids, the car is my most frequent chance to listen to some great tunes, so I would like to improve this audio 'situation'. While doing so however, I would like to preserve the cars authenticity, and not do any major 'visible' or at least 'non-reversible' changes to the stereo (ie only do things a collector would not mind). Any ideas to upgrade the sound, and not have it skip would be great.

[z3forlife]

Yes Jimi live at Winterland �� One of my favorites. I'm very demanding of my stereo and again like you the car is really the only place I can enjoy it without someone complaining. I have a roadster so my options for sub replacement maintaining a stock-ish appearance are a little larger. I have seen a few options on this forum but don't know if they're available or not still. I had my new front set for over a year waiting to find a sub option that didn't require any space in the trunk. Once I sourced my 5 channel alpine amp I dug into it and completed the swap over the weekend. Some brands of aftermarket evidently don't line up with the stock mounting points but the two major brands I used all lined up. You may be able to find adapter plugs to keep from cutting the stock harness but for me it wasn't a issue as I plan on keeping the car for a long time. There are very few coupes around here and I've never had a good look at there setup. The new head unit I'm using has MP3 input so no skipping.

[LannVouivre]

I felt cutting the stock harness is a non-issue, so long as you make professional splices. I have seen quite a few wires simply twisted and taped in used cars.

I made speaker adapter plates from cheap cutting boards from Target to fit my lower speakers.

I still need the inspect my oem amp and find the specs for it.

[z3forlife]

I'll save you some time. They suck. Distortion measured in full percentages. That's usually the last thing people change but really makes the most difference after sub/speaker replacement. The stock head unit is fine if it does what you want but the odd impedance of the stock amp makes improvement limited

[ArkansasTed]

I have to say....the difference is incredible to me...and I own a recording studio and have for over 30 years. All I changed was the head unit and the 4" speakers behind the seats. Everything else is stock. Now mind you, it doesn't compare with a full blown replacement system pushing mega watts...but for no more than I changed out...the difference in sound is amazing. Crutchfield supplies a factory wiring harness that you wire up to the new head unit harness which makes it plug and play. Of course I soldered all the connections, so they are nice and solid. Nothing was cut or damaged, so it can go back to stock if needed. Even the little "sub" speakers sound so much better than they did with the factory head unit.

[ArkansasTed]

I mounted my bluetooth mic on the steering column, kind of wedged between the steering column and the dash...and it works perfect. I didn't even have to use the sticky tape to mount it with. It stays in place fine without it. I placed a call, and the person on the other end said that the phone sounded great. It's nice having hands free calling in a 2000 Z3 .

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[LannVouivre]

I'll save you some time. They suck. Distortion measured in full percentages. That's usually the last thing people change but really makes the most difference after sub/speaker replacement. The stock head unit is fine if it does what you want but the odd impedance of the stock amp makes improvement limited

Alright, lol; guess I'll dig the old Pioneer GM-D004 I have somewhere. It's not the best amp, but it looks like it can run the Rockford R14X2 and R1525X2 without fuss. I am using the Continental TR7412UB-OR head unit since the the volume knob on the original was a bit spotty and temperamental. Also I hate CDs.

Anyway, my setup is pretty cheap since I mainly needed functional audio components. The amp is a leftover from an in-dash setup I made for my last car.

[dancingbear]

Hey Z3forlife, and Arkansas Ted, thanks for the replies. I will do some more digging to find something satisfactory, and report back if I do.

[moto5977]

I'm planning a complete overhaul of my audio system in my 97 1.9. Glad to hear that those Rockford R14X2 speakers fit since those were the ones I was thinking of using. Here is my plan: Polk Audio DB5252 component speakers in the kick panels and tweeters in the doors. Head Unit will be a Pioneer DEH-8800HS, The 4" Rockfords in back and also a Rockford R400-4D Amp. My car has the rear storage compartment so I don't have a sub. I'll be doing all of this in a couple months since the car is in storage for the winter. Arkansas Ted, have you listen to the speaker with the roof off?

[LannVouivre]

The trim around the speakers in back will probably rattle or crack when you install them, so be ready to do something to negate that.

Also, I replaced the amp with my cheapo GM1004 and everything sounds better, except now I have interference since I haven't yet bothered to properly mount it.

[Schreier]

I also got the Crutchfield Sound Ordinance P-52CB 5-1/4", 4-ohm speaker package. It was just a bit too small for the kick panels, so I had to cut the mounting tabs with a rotary cutter. The speakers are still very secure even when you cut the tabs like this.

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There was quite a bit of hardware in the box, including two of these devices. They're for splitting the signal so you can operate (included) tweeters even when your head unit or amp doesn't have separate channels for tweeters and woofers. But I don't think we need these, because even the stock sound system separated the signal into woofers and tweeters, right? I have a Sony Xplod MEX-BT3700U right now and I'm pretty sure everything already is split accordingly.

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Anyway, I'm not an audio expert by any means, but these sound much nicer than the paper cones the Z3 came with. However they sound quieter than the stock speakers (2 ohms stock rather than 4 ohms in the S/O speakers?), and the overall sound still is a bit muddy. I'm going to try those Rockford Fosgate Prime R14X2 4" behind the seats, as that seems like it would make for an even more dramatic improvement. You could tinker with the sound in these cars forever, I think.

For anyone who really knows how to read a speaker spec sheet (I sure as hell don't), here's some info on the P-52CBs and similar speakers:

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[z3forlife]

You will definitely want to use the crossovers with those speakers. The stock amp has a built in crossover to match the stock speakers. It will work with aftermarket but still won't sound very good. If you use a aftermarket amp you will need to use the crossovers since most amps have a full range output. The crossovers will prevent sending bass signals to your tweeter and highs to your woofers. Unless your amp has built in crossovers so that tweeters are on one channel and woofer on the other you will need the crossovers.

[Schreier]

Unless your amp has built in crossovers so that tweeters are on one channel and woofer on the other you will need the crossovers.

My head unit is aftermarket, but I'm pretty sure the amp and everything else is stock. My Z3 has the factory sub between the two seats. But it's not the factory HK system. Where should I connect and mount the crossovers?

[z3forlife]

You will need to replace the stock amp first. All wiring from the head unit goes to the amp in the trunk. If you keep the stock amp it's outputs are already balanced for the stock speaker impedance (ohms)and frequency range. When you have replaced the amp w aftermarket then the new crossovers will mount near the amp. All speaker wires terminate at the amp and are more than adequate for the wattage your speakers are rated for. Look for a 5 channel output amp (front l/r rear l/r and sub) I'm not familiar with the Sony you have so it may already be suitable. The crossovers go between the amp output and wiring to the front speakers.there are several wiring diagrams on the forum but can vary from yr/model a bit. If you can get hold of a ohm meter you can test the circuits and determine which pairs go to which speakers. It's not too difficult but to do it right can be time consuming. Solder and tape/heat shrink all splices. HK was an option so not all z's came that way. The trouble with reusing the stock sub box is finding a true subwoofer that will fit it. Many here have switched to a aftermarket 8" sub box. Good luck

[Schreier]

Thanks! Good to know.

[ArkansasTed]

No...have my hardtop on right now. But the system as a whole sounds so much better with just the 4" rears and new head unit. Anxious to see how it sounds with the top off.

That was supposed to have quoated Moto....not sure why it didn't