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Thread: Glue for door panels?

  1. #1
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    Glue for door panels?

    I have my door panels apart. Many of the clips have come un-glued, and I peeled off the foam insulation. What is a good glue for putting those clips back on? And what should I use for the foam backing? I need something that's good for -40 to +40 Celsius.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    The contoured black plastic bits around the edge that retain the clips? Some say Gorilla glue, I like epoxy which sets faster and is less mess.
    The center insert has thin foam padding that disintegrates over time so I'm guessing that is what you mean. I have used a cotton(?) batting, I think it's called that, I purchased at a fabric and crafts store. It's about the same thickness as the foam, gives a slight cushion and won't disintegrate in my lifetime. Contact cement for re-attaching the covering.

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  3. #3
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    I have had great success using gorilla glue.

  4. #4
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    I've had great success redoing previously gorilla glued ones with epoxy.

  5. #5
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    What epoxy?

  6. #6
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    I didn't think Gorilla Glue would be OK for temperature extremes like that - they don't mention anything on their website about it. Will it be OK? I only want to do this once...

  7. #7
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    I use 3M's window weld fast drying urethane adhesive. It sets quickly and has excellent properties against temperature extremes.

    I haven't had a door panel repair come back when used in conjunction with new door panel clips.

  8. #8
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    I tried epoxy and the first time I pulled the panel back off, most of the plugs stayed in the door. Next time I will try Gorilla glue.

  9. #9
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    Epoxy for the clip holders. The longer set time, generally the stronger hold. I have used 30 min. With great success. However, for best results, let the reattached parts sit overnight at room temperature.

    Glue for covers: Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive. It's got excellent heat resistance.

    Padding: batting, as already noted, would be excellent. I would think it could shift and bunch up if not well attached on both sides (trim material and card backing).

  10. #10
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    I used liquid nails. It's held up great.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by struka View Post
    What epoxy?
    I use a thing like this, but it's super expensive. The 5 minute epoxy that you mix together with a stick is just about as good. The brand name is not particularly relevant.


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layne View Post

    I use a thing like this, but it's super expensive. The 5 minute epoxy that you mix together with a stick is just about as good. The brand name is not particularly relevant.
    I have the same thing. It's a 3m gun @ $60 but it's a one time purchase. The cartridges are relatively cheap though and it self mixes. I've used it for just about everything other than concrete anchors (I have a Simpson strong tie gun for that).

  13. #13
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    we use epoxy at our job. I could order them for free
    2016 640i Coupe'
    1990 Bmw 535i Turbo 600whp

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  14. #14
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    for the foam backed leatherette I have switched to HH-66 Vinyl cement with good results.
    hh66-vinyl-cement-4-oz.jpg

    Technical Data:
    Base: Thermoplasticelastomer
    Color: Clear
    Solvent: MEK-Toluene-Acetone Blend
    Viscosity:Medium, 1100-1300 cps.
    Application:Brush or Roller
    Solids: 15% ħ 1% (Approximately)
    Net Weight:8 Lbs. (Approximately)
    Temperature Range: -30° to 180°F.
    Tack Life: 2 – 5 minutes
    Shelf Life:18 months or longer
    Flash Point: 22° F.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShapeShifter View Post
    I have had great success using gorilla glue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Layne View Post
    I've had great success redoing previously gorilla glued ones with epoxy.
    2016 640i Coupe'
    1990 Bmw 535i Turbo 600whp

    1999 740iL: Sold
    1997 740i: Crashed and Parted
    1988 535i: Crashed and Parted
    1988 528e: Crashed and parted
    IG- @Rogetta_Stone

  16. #16
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    Having something that has a little give to it is probably a good idea as well seeing as you will get a fair share of movement and shock when opening and closing the door. Also be sure to do good prep work and follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions for application of the adhesive. I have seen a bunch of adhesive failures on brand new cars when I worked in automotive. Failures from the manufacturer which were then resolved by proper application of the materials used. All food for thought.
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  17. #17
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    use thin head screws and put them through the card board AND the door. Those will hold the weight of the actually panel. Then use whatever glue everyone has recommended. I've used 3M adhesive only for it to all come apart in a Florida summer. 3/10 would not recommend.

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  18. #18
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    I redid all the clips and reattached some of the vinyl materials as well. Both were done with Gorilla glue and have worked perfectly. I have even taken off the panels since and all of the plastic parts stay attached as they should.

  19. #19
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    Just saw this today at local fabric store: Performance Products High Temp Adhesive https://www.wsusol.com/p-46-adhesive...-can-each.aspx

    Shop owner says he has lots of happy automotive and commercial applications customers.

    Also, for padding of door cards the shop sells Flex-Form. It looks perfect for this application, and if I were embarking on the project myself, this is what I would use. If you can't find it call Fabrics Unlimited in Charlottesville, VA 434-973-5641. Ask for Andy. He sells the spray adhesive, too.

  20. #20
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    I guess I used Gorilla Glue better than some, since I used that about three years ago in my ex M5 and the panels are still real solid, through -20 to +35 C.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
    use thin head screws and put them through the card board AND the door. Those will hold the weight of the actually panel. Then use whatever glue everyone has recommended. I've used 3M adhesive only for it to all come apart in a Florida summer. 3/10 would not recommend.
    Ahem, we're owed build thread updates, Sean. WHAT'S NEW!?
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    Quote Originally Posted by danespann View Post
    Every E34 needs the same things in the end.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BleedsBlue View Post
    I guess I used Gorilla Glue better than some, since I used that about three years ago in my ex M5 and the panels are still real solid, through -20 to +35 C.



    Ahem, we're owed build thread updates, Sean. WHAT'S NEW!?
    Yeah, it's a whole thing. Shorted out my MS not paying attention, sent the unit to be repaired. Going to be messing with it tonight. Fingers crosses.

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  22. #22
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    I ended up using JB-Weld brand "Plastic Weld" for the clips. I just glued them to the original glue, which was still there. I guess in a few years I'll know how good it was!

    For holding the foam pieces to the door, I bought a roll of butyl rubber tape. Haven't used it yet.

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