oem import direct
My engine is an s50 bored to 86.5 with je pistons and eagle rods. I bought a rebuilt head and notice that the valve springs are of the straight kind compared to what the OE head where the springs were tapered at the top. I used the original lifters and trays from the s50 head on this new rebuilt head. I'm have lifter ticking, and seems like it's coming from the lifters on 5 of 6 cylinder. I did take all lifters apart to clean them where they were all smooth when pressing them with my fingers then I loaded them to where they got stiff. My question is, do I need to use different lifters for that type of valve spring or do the s50 lifter be ok?.. I was told to drive the car and hopefully the lifter will adjust.
96 M3, GT4094R, Arrow Rods, CP Pistons, Elring HG, cutring 87mm, 10 mm ARP studs,MS3pro, EMC Intercooler, n54 6 speed with Motiv twin disk, ZT-2 wideband, Zionsville Radiator, X-brace, H&R springs with bilstien shocks, QTP electronic cutout, Line Locks, stock exhaust 455rwtq, 453rwhp at 14 psi 91 octane.......684rwtq, 681rwhp at 24 psi running flex fuel E60 at time of dyno tune.
u owe my mule an apology
Did you just put the motor together now? It sometimes takes 10-15 minutes of driving to get all the air out of the lifters. If you have straight single valve springs then its most likely a vanos M50 head.
86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30
oem import direct
yes it is a m50 head. I just want to make sure my original cam trays and lifters from the s50 head can be used on the m50 head with non tapered valve springs. Ihaven't driven the car, i did the 3000 rpms for two minutes a few times.Originally Posted by someguy2800
96 M3, GT4094R, Arrow Rods, CP Pistons, Elring HG, cutring 87mm, 10 mm ARP studs,MS3pro, EMC Intercooler, n54 6 speed with Motiv twin disk, ZT-2 wideband, Zionsville Radiator, X-brace, H&R springs with bilstien shocks, QTP electronic cutout, Line Locks, stock exhaust 455rwtq, 453rwhp at 14 psi 91 octane.......684rwtq, 681rwhp at 24 psi running flex fuel E60 at time of dyno tune.
Member
sometimes you need to drive it to fully bleed the lifers. I had an S50 that sat for years, i couldn't get the lifters bleed until i drove it. You can always try the old "Italian tune up"
"**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."
oem import direct
Yeah thats what im going to do. Just waiting for my wideband to arrive.
96 M3, GT4094R, Arrow Rods, CP Pistons, Elring HG, cutring 87mm, 10 mm ARP studs,MS3pro, EMC Intercooler, n54 6 speed with Motiv twin disk, ZT-2 wideband, Zionsville Radiator, X-brace, H&R springs with bilstien shocks, QTP electronic cutout, Line Locks, stock exhaust 455rwtq, 453rwhp at 14 psi 91 octane.......684rwtq, 681rwhp at 24 psi running flex fuel E60 at time of dyno tune.
Member
What oil are you using?
In my case I had to drive it a few hundred miles on the old oil (not sure what it had, possibly some cheap stuff for break in) after my headgasket failure (poossibly due to overheating). I had the head machined so it got dissasembled and built back up. At first I thought the lifters may have been misplaced or damaged during the overheat. No wanting to mess wiith the cut ring headgasket and itching to drive I decided to hold off on pulling the cams or head back off.
I changed oil to Total 10w-40, and noise improved significantly (I inspected the filter and oil filter housing for debris). A few hundred miles later it was quiet except on cold start, where it was still loud enough for people to look at me strange when I drove by pedestrians. My commute is about 1/4 mile out of my sub and into the starbucks parking lot, then about 5 miles of 50 mph to work. By the time I get to work the noise is almost gone.Then I switched to Castrol 60 oil and the noise is gone, even on cold start. I can hear my VANOS rumble upon cold start again, which is my "normal" lol. I have not checked lifter clearances to cam lobe since the first time, though.For awhile there I was looking into replacing all my lifters.
Last edited by jlb85; 02-10-2017 at 07:08 AM. Reason: clarification
Member
I always find that as soon as my oil level gets below the top mark on the dipstick, I start to get lifter tick. I then add 1/2 a quart to overfill slightly and the tick vanishes, until the level drops back down again.
Member
Castrol TWS 10W-60 definitely solved my lifter tick problems.
I have also noticed this, the tick is basically my warning that the oil is level is getting low.
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Ring Master
I don't know if id jump to 60w oil unless i knew my bearing clearances...
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Member
Been like that for a year and a half already. Maybe I'm lucky but the way I drive, if it was going to create a problem for me it would have done it by now. I bought the car with 140K and it's at 168K now.
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