FelPro gaskets, thanks Wagons Ho..The surgery has started

[f355spider]

Jimlev, good plan! Repinning the Bosch connectors in 90s to early 2000 era Ferraris is a common exercise to fix phantom or unexplained Check Engine lights. It can also resolve poor running and rough idle issues. Kits are sold with all the various pins (upgraded with greater tension and gold plating) along with replacement silicone boots (better withstanding engine heat) and the tools to depin the connectors, as well as the double crimp tool. (It helps to clean the new, stripped wire with contact cleaner spray and a small wire brush to enhance the connection before crimping.) The female end of Bosch junior timer connectors do not have a very high cycle life. IIRC Bosch claims only 12 to 15 cycles before the female side can start to loose clamping/contact pressure on the male pin.

Took me several nights to do my previous F355 spider...including the Motronic connector. Took lots of pictures and wrote down wire colors to ensure I assembled each connector back correctly. Started on the first try.

[JimLev]

I've purchased all of the parts from BMW and have the correct AMP crimp tool. Thanks for the info about using a cleaner.
I've directly connected a PWM supply to the TB motor which shows it works fine, the pedal pot has been replaced so everything points to wiring.

[E39540V8]

Jimlev, good plan! Repinning the Bosch connectors in 90s to early 2000 era Ferraris is a common exercise to fix phantom or unexplained Check Engine lights. It can also resolve poor running and rough idle issues. Kits are sold with all the various pins (upgraded with greater tension and gold plating) along with replacement silicone boots (better withstanding engine heat) and the tools to depin the connectors, as well as the double crimp tool. (It helps to clean the new, stripped wire with contact cleaner spray and a small wire brush to enhance the connection before crimping.) The female end of Bosch junior timer connectors do not have a very high cycle life. IIRC Bosch claims only 12 to 15 cycles before the female side can start to loose clamping/contact pressure on the male pin.

Took me several nights to do my previous F355 spider...including the Motronic connector. Took lots of pictures and wrote down wire colors to ensure I assembled each connector back correctly. Started on the first try.

Any links to these kits, also do you replace the protective sleeve' for the harness, mine are hard plastic

Nice work as always Jim

[JimLev]

It wasn't a kit, I just purchased all the individual parts.

[f355spider]

Any links to these kits, also do you replace the protective sleeve' for the harness, mine are hard plastic

Nice work as always Jim

Scuderia Rampante.com The kits are designed for Ferraris and priced accordingly. But they may sell you the pins and boots separately if you wanted them..they are a top notch product. Their kits include pins and boots for every connector...even the O2 sensors. http://scuderiarampante.com/sri-gold-connector-kit/ Kits includes all parts, tools and instructions...but again, ask, they may sell individual parts to handle your needs.

[E30NJ]

I've got new connectors, pins, and wire so I'm fine on replacing them.

Thats the right way to do it!

[peter540]

I realize you keep all components in great shape, so the following question is likely to have "no" as the answer, but could the oil be coming from either the CCV or the pipe from the CCV to the OSV?

[JimLev]

No, those parts were OK. I did have an oil catch can connected between the OSV and the CCV, didn't have any oil leaks there. I did seem to have more oil around the intake manifold gaskets than I've ever seen before. They could have been leaking oil that is inside the manifold. I'll be checking the crankcase vacuum level when I get in back together.
I removed the catch can and all of the extra hoses that connected it.

[tptrsn]

They could have been leaking oil that is inside the manifold.

Are you referring to PCV style oil in the intake manifold here Jim? Very interesting if that could be true with an additional catch can in the system...

[JimLev]

If the CCV vacuum level is way to high it could be pulling in too much oil vapors. I replaced the OSV in 2014 when I did the guides.

[Plattus1000]

Even "dirty", looks so good.

[JimLev]

Mechanically it's mostly back together. Started working on the wiring today, hope to finish that part tomorrow.
The sleeving on the TB, MAF, and Dual temp sensor cables are brittle and broken in many places.
Looks terrible so that is also getting replaced.

OilLeak8.JPG

OilLeak9.JPG

[philly98540]

So clean Jim! I need to leave my car at your house for some much needed tidying up.

So your plan is to drive a bit and look for oil?

[JimLev]

So clean Jim! I need to leave my car at your house for some much needed tidying up.

So your plan is to drive a bit and look for oil?

Right, will pull the intake off as soon as I see some oil.

Just leave your car here after you get a new clutch put in it and with a good set of rear meats......some good twisties around here with no houses for miles.
Headed back into the garage after dinner, the wiring is done.
Need to put the DME back in, air ducts, cabin air filters, and clean some oil off the bottom side of the engine.

[philly98540]

Just bought a new clutch. Gulp.

[JimLev]

What clutch did you get? My stock clutch is still holding, got about 50K on it now. I did do a small mod to the pressure plate so it would clamp with a little bit more pressure.

Finished putting my car back together and cleaned up all of the oil that was on the under side.
Gave it a wash and shammy dry then took it for a 40 mile cruise, no sign of oil leaking out the top side yet.
If I get another Failsafe Engine Program I'm probably going to buy a new ($$$) pedal potentiometer.

Just realized my car had a b-day 2 weeks ago, 17 yrs old.

[philly98540]

I got the UUC twin disk on presidents sale. I'm hoping for the best. My clutch was good until hwy pulls this winter. The cold ups the power. I saw the tach rising faster than speedo.

I hope your oil seepage is easy to find and fix. Also be interesting to know if your rewiring solves the DBW faults. Lots of TU guys seem to get that issue. How much is the pedal pot assy?

[JimLev]

Twin disc should hold up to your insane power levels.
The DME does too much checking between the throttle pot and TB, compares the pot voltages on both parts, the current the TB motor uses, and how fast the TB responds.
So far the best deal on a new OE Bosch pedal pot is $300.
There's a Tech Session at Sandia BMW tomorrow night, I'll see what they want.

- - - Updated - - -

Just finished checking my crankcase vacuum.
It's always been around 3.4" water column, today it was 5", still within spec which is 3-6".
Don't know if the headers had anything to do with the increase, didn't have them the last time I checked it.

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum Joan.
Which process/replacement are you asking about?

[ross1]

Did you ever determine where the leak was?

[JimLev]

No I didn’t, after I put it all back together it‘s been fine.
I should have done what you mentioned in your deleted post, LOL.

One positive thing is that my constant Engine Failsafe Program has been gone since I rewired the throttle body. Also did the MAF and dual temp sensor at the same time.

[ross1]

No I didn’t, after I put it all back together it‘s been fine.
I should have done what you mentioned in your deleted post, LOL.

One positive thing is that my constant Engine Failsafe Program has been gone since I rewired the throttle body. Also did the MAF and dual temp sensor at the same time.

It looked like a lady had joined the thread so in a rare moment of discretion...

[JimLev]

It looked like a lady had joined the thread so in a rare moment of discretion...

Good move Ross.