1998, S52. I've got a whining noise coming from the front of the engine. I deleted the fan and added an electic aftermarket fan. This noise happens whether or not fans are on. Belts are new. Water pump has been changed to metal impeller before I owned the car. Power steering fluid is right. No leaks. I've heard idler pulleys go bad, which is like a squeaky pulsing or rhythmic sound. This is not quite like that. It's more of a constant whining or whirring noise. So, it could be just a different noise that a bad idler bearing would make, or could it be from the alternator, A/C, water pump, power steering pump?? Any thoughts are welcome and appreciated. thanks
It's most likely one of the idler pulleys. A bad tensioner or pulley bearing can make all sorts of noises which I'm sure thousands have tried to mimic. You've already done half the job by removing the mechanical fan and fan clutch, the rest is very simple. I replaced everything in the video below with my car up on ramps in approximately 30 mins.
Well, I'll change out the 3 pulleys and hope that fixes it, unless someone chimes in with "on these cars ........". Thanks.
The idler/tensioner pulleys have varied lifespans, but aren't prohibitively expensive, nor difficult to change.
If you want to do a little detective work, remove the a/c belt and start the engine and listen if you still hear the noise, and is it the same or different?
Going a little deeper, remove the main drive belt, only this time, listen fast, as you only want to run the engine 30-40 seconds__at idle__any longer at your own peril.
While the main belt is off, but NOT with the engine running, rotate/spin each of the drive accessories (alt., w/pump & pwr-str/pump) for feel. You can snap a good spin on the alternator, but the water and power steering pumps while offering some resistance, should still feel smooth.
I can tell you I had a whirring noise in one of my pulleys, until the idler pulley blew apart as I came away from a stop sign at normal speed. It happened a few weeks after I had a new flex disc installed. It was a sound I'll never forget. The pulley bounced off the street hitting the underside of my car, and I could see it in the street in my rear view mirror. The car coasted to a stop, and I thought "oh crap" my flex disc came off. But turned out to be the idler pulley. I'm no expert mechanic, but if I heard the same whirring sound again, I'd consider replacing that pulley. The "event" caused damage to the belt and I had to get a new tensioner.
I lost a tensioner on my M3 at highway speeds. Luckily was able to cruise off the highway and exit into a shopping center. When I tried to make a sharp right turn I realized I had no power steering. I got it towed back home and ordered a new tensioner and pulley. Pulley was making noise when I inspected it during the failure; when I spun the pulley you could hear the bearings. While taking off the A/C belt that tensioner failed. I would say order both tensioners and pulleys if you're high mileage. I recently changed the pulley on the main belt when I did the cooling system overhaul in November, in my coupe. It was also making that bearing sound when I took off the belts. At first I thought it was the alternator, thank god it was only the pulley. Common wear item on s5x motors.
db
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
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'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
I had a similar whirring noise in my S52 as well. I noticed it was speeding up and got louder as my revs went up and initially i thought it was my alternator going bad. But it turns out one my pulleys were going bad. It was a relatively cheap to fix that vs an alternator. I would definitely suggest looking into those first.
You can also try a mechanical stethoscope on the various suspect components, the bad one will let you know (in comparison to the other 'good' ones).
'Sweetness Tres' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '97 Boston Green 66K Smiles Mine
'Sweetness Too' M52, 2.5L Z3 5-Speed Roadster, '00 Jet Black 165K Smiles 2022 Gone Ins Co Total in Jan 2022- Right Front Collision - Paid $8850 !!
'Ol' Black Betty' S52, 3.2L ///M3 5-Speed Vert '98 Cosmos Black 265K Smiles Wifeys
M50, 2.5L 525i E34 Tragi-matic '95 Sedan Alpine White III 238K Smiles Was Daughters Mine Again
'Gretchen' M30, 3.5L 535i E34 Tragi-matic '90 Sedan Glacier Blue/Indigo 144K Smiles 2018 Gone & I miss her
'Sweetness' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '96 Boston Green 264K Smiles Was Mine Ins Co Total in Jan 2013- Rear End Collision - Paid $4800 !!
I had a customer's Tundra lose its steel tensioner during a test drive. I thought it had something roll in the truck bed, but I saw the tensioner bounce down the road behind me....
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
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'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
I think it's the timing chain tensioner. I just ordered one. I replaced all 3 pulleys and both tensioners = no change. (It was still good to do that: all 3 pulleys spun freely, and one had a barely perceptible movement, so they were old.) I had not had car with a timing chain in 30 years, so I just wasn't thinking in those terms. We'll see .........
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Yes, that's what I've been reading, and that's what it sounds like. I hope that fixes it, because I've also been reading that sound could be the Vanos, which seems expensive and a lot of work to replace. thanks for responding, Brad
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
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'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Do you any experience with that? I'm trying to educate myself by reading. It seems that I'd buy Dr Vanos for about $275 or parts from Besian for about $60. The labor doesn't seem like much, especially after all the work to get the Vanos out of the car. I wonder 2 things: first: is the DrVanos unit better? They make some claims about it. I might call them and ask. Second, are there pitfalls in rebuilding it myself that aren't on the videos? .........
Well, it's not the timing chain tensioner. I borrowed the one in my Z3 today. The M tensioner (compared to the Z3 tensioner), had a weak spring and a notchy piston movement, so I was sure I found the culprit. But nope: there was no difference in noise. Again, it was something that needed changing anyway, so that's good. ..... I'm now going after the Vanos. I did call Dr Vanos. Chris was very helpful. While I can see why some would buy the Dr Vanos unit, I will opt to rebuild mine. (I'm retired, so I have more time than money.) I also learned here how to make a camshaft tool: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Vanos-install . I'll get the Besian seals and anti-rattle kits and $5 socket. I'm going to replace the upper chain tensioner also, because of a story I read here from a guy who took his apart again to replace it. Even with gaskets, I'll get it done for under $300. ..... If anyone reading has any advice, I appreciate it. I hate those moments when a friend says "what you should have done is ............." ...... P.S. Does anyone know the diameter of the pin to stick in the engine to hold it in place?
Last edited by zellamay; 02-16-2017 at 07:26 PM.
I have a rebuild kit sitting and waiting for me to tackle on my M3, I just haven't had the time to rebuild all that it wrong with my M3 atm. I'm also teetering back and forth about doing an s54 swap on it, so I haven't been dumping money into her recently. I have not rebuilt any vanos' in the past either but from what I gather it's pretty straight forward. My mechanic talked me through the steps when my car was in to remove a stuck wheel lock (I was trying unsuccessfully for the better part of a year, I even had a rim specialist damage my rim trying to remove it before my mechanic was able to get it off first try). If you can take off the vanos from the car, you should be more that able to rebuild the vanos. Make sure you have a bench vice, as you'll need it to hold the vanos.
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Rebuilding it isn't bad. I only did seals, though.
Here is the guide I'll probably end up using to do the actual anti-rattle kit.
Reminds me of my Harley days: 1970's. We said there is no dipstick on a Harley because you don't need one. You know it's out of oil when it stops leaking.
Zellamay, how’d you make out? I’m weighing my options doing it myself vs taking it in. I found the skinny 32mm wrench. Can anyone link the other tool they show in the video? I don’t know what it’s called and I can’t find it. Grrrr, idk, I have a fear of spinning things and tight belts since I ripped my finger off in a cooling tower a few years ago. Grrrr
Well, it's been a while, and my memory is not as good as most people's. It went well. Not the most difficult job for a home-mechanic, but you need some mechanical savvy, especially when doing the rebuild itself. I did rent the camshaft holding tool because I read of mistakes with the home-made one. After doing the job, I'd say that the homemade one would be fine. I have a bench vice, as post 17 recommends. I just used a 10 mm open-end wrench to hold the water pump when removing the fan. (you have to let the pulley rotate until it's resting on the arm of the wrench to avoid loosening the bolt) It's doable, but I want to make a homemade tool for the future. It's far quieter than before.
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