I hit a curb a couple weeks back in my 1998 e36 m3 vert. If i shifted into drive it wouldn't go but the engine sounded perfectly fine. I know i bent my rear trailing arm and my right side outer cv joint is shot the bearings literally fell out, my wheels and
tires on the right are done what else am i looking at? And is it worth repairs. Also when i put it in park it would move unless i put the parking brake on
20161227_125857.jpgIMG_20161226_123636.jpg
Last edited by Vrhomero; 02-24-2017 at 09:20 AM.
So you're still trying to move the car with the rear suspension all jacked up?
I bought a car in a similar situation. I replaced the rear trailing arm, half shaft, and rear lower control arm. No real issues and the repair was straight forward. If you messed up the trailing arm pocket that is going to be a much bigger issue and if you bent or damaged anything on the subframe you're going to run into even more issues.
I'd replace all of the ball joints on the new replacement trailing arm while you have it out as well as the bushings. I've got a set of poly RTAB bushings if you're interested. No issues with them, and I threw them in my when I was fixing my rear suspension as well.
I wouldn't continue to try to move the car in the current condition that it is in.
It sounds like an auto vert, which commands the lowest sales price of all e36 M3 offerings--difficult for me to imagine it's not totaled.
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
While it might be totaled, depending on the damage done, the cost to repair is not that bad if you can do the work yourself and can rummage up some of those big parts from people parting out other cars. Just make sure you get trailing arms from a 96+ M3 as I think they changed the half shaft diameters somewhere so they aren't interchangeable. If I'm remembering correctly...
I'd like to see pics.
1995 BMW M3/2/5 - Alpine White - Vaders - Stage II Maxsil Pistons, Chipped, 24# Injectors, MagnaFlow Exhaust, and heated door locks!
I'm sure when he said he bent the rear trailing arm, he actually meant the rear lower control arm which is designed to give way when the driver finds a curb If you bent the rear trailing arm, the entire car is definitely totaled because that thing is a brick house. She's mighty mighty.
1997 M3 (SOLD) :o 2000 528i Sport (SOLD)
I guess the OP was letting it all hang out? To continue the brickhouse theme lol.
Hopefully he is only talking about the rear lower control arm. I think on the car I had actually had the arm bent also, or something on it snapped off...either way, I replaced the trailing arm, control arm, and half shaft.
i meant to say the rear lower control arm, if i had bent the rear trailing arm that would be mental.
- - - Updated - - -
no i tried to move it when i had first hit the curb, i also realized the end link on my front sway bar is done and the bushing is all torn up. what else should i be looking for?
pics are up
- - - Updated - - -
^^^^
Ouch.
I'd scrutinize everything on the rear end all the way into and including the diff. Is the rear subframe bent at all?
It also sounds like you have some sort of transmission/driveline issue if the car rolls while in park. Is the driveshaft still attached to the diff and transmission, and are both CV joints still attached to the hubs?
Even best case this is going to be a ton of work. You're going to want/need to basically drop everything from the bottom of the car for inspection so you can figure out what's damaged.
Last edited by TostitoBandito; 02-24-2017 at 12:53 PM.
Bookmarks