Install the 5/8. Bleed all 4 (rr/lr/fr/fl). Get your car to stop stalling. Report back.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I'd try and find a local performance shop who can do a smoke leak test for you. It sounds to me like a vac leak. Is there a way to scan OBD1 cars for codes? I try my best to never deal with them so I am not sure. I'd try swapping out the master, they can be had for cheap on eBay.
update. fixed problem with stalling. Cps and Tps were bad.
Great. Can you lock up the tires with just the stock normal brakes if you just stab them? If not, you may want to try a more aggressive rear pad. When I had an inline hydro, I used a DTC-70 Hawk rear pad that worked really well cold or hot. You may want to try a more aggressive material if there's no air in the system and you still can't lock them.
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Not white knighting, just trying to help out others trying to drift their BMWs. Literally all of your greentext was wrong. He knew it was 3/4, he knew about the ABS relay being pulled, and some E36s have 3 channel ABS, explaining the lack of a T in the picture. He provided plenty of information. No need to get salty. I'm tired of all the "wow just search noob" responses. Shit gets old.
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
OK fine scrub, you've caught me in a charitable mood. Go to the following website and input your respective brake info
http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/in...culators.shtml
For the sake of everyones' convenience, I have used some generic numbers as an example
As one can see, switching to the 5/8" master will only make estimated braking torque marginally better. The reality is that unless you are quite good at shifting weight towards the front of the car before pulling the ebrake, you'll need a pair of wilwood calipers to easily lock the rears up
I believe Massivebrakes sells a pair of brackets that will allow you to install a second set of calipers onto your car. If you don't wanna lose the OE handbrake, you could always fab up a pair of brackets to replace the OE calipers with wilwood units. Simply install a proportioning valve in front of your inline master and you can retain your current brake bias
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Dude, you've been around long enough to identify this kind of thread for what it is. 9/10 times when we get threads like this, it's always some dude looking for easy answers who will show zero gratitude after knowledgeable guys like us spend time out of our busy days trying to play mechanic from thousands of miles away. And when their issues are solved, they disappear and make no notable contributions to the community at all. Why go through the hassle of helping people like this out?
IMO if someone can't formulate a coherent post and accurately describe what their problem is, the community will quite frankly probably be better off without them
Last edited by jalopi; 02-13-2017 at 10:32 PM.
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Are the e36 rear brakes that different from the 46? I lock mine up with an inline with pretty minimal effort.....
that part where i fucked up was getting a 3/4. i was unaware the size of the master was that important. I'm going to keep it, just make a long fucking extension handle for more leverage. started and am close. i test fit it but need to reinforce it. will have pictures up tomorrow. i will swap my pads when i get around to the annoying wheel bearings. 20 y/o saving up to move out with some buds, I'm using what i have and fixing the key components for it to run. thanks for the help. -g
- - - Updated - - -
im not familier w/ the e46. what size MC do you have?
- - - Updated - - -
i might use the secondary pads down the road. i took the parking brake out bc only 1 side would work and could sit weird. not sure if the cable snapped in the cable tunnel or if it was loose, never got to it before i stripped interior with the exception of carpet.
- - - Updated - - -
"So I'm pretty sure that it is my camshaft pos. sensor that was making the car stall out, not the actual handbrake. I bled the front tires today (all tires bled) but it still doesn't lock the rears up. It is a generic 3/4(.75) cyl handbrake. My tires don't even want to lock up from the foot brake, although the foot brake stops my car well, unless i hammer the brakes which i have only done like 1 or 2 times. I have the ABS relays out. Should i try new pads/rotors? Im giving the handbrake all i have when i pull it. I also thought about making a longer handle for it, although I'm not sure if this would work either." -post#5
I guess I'm used to dealing with helping people all the time who have zero clue, or far less of a clue than people on this forum do by selling parts on Ebay. It doesn't take me much effort to type out a short response and help someone out, so I do so. I have the freedom of being able to do that throughout the day as my job is selling car parts, so I try to help those who might need help. The OP in this case provided a fair amount of information, and although some stuff seemed noobish, it was by far from the worst thread we see around here. Some don't even dignify a response, but in this case, typing out a short and helpful response is far quicker than going through all the trolling back and forth responses of "well why didn't you just search, etc." Sometimes I find it easier to just be helpful. I may or may not get anything back from it. Not every piece of advice has to have a price tag. I hear you about not wanting to waste your time. It would take even less of your time to just not respond to the thread if you feel you are a bit too busy.
Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 02-14-2017 at 01:07 AM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
I did not even look at the pictures, but saying switching cylinder to a 0.625 only make it marginally better is bullshit.
A 0.75 has ~42% more piston area then the 0.625, that is not what I call marginally.
People have been using hydraulic handbrake with stock calipers for ages without problems.
Btw if you switch to a wilwood 4 piston, you will need a 0.75 cyl.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
This is a literal example of why I shitpost in response to dumb questions/threads/replies on this forum. Despite spending time providing irrefutable evidence (in this case, hard numbers) as to how I arrive at the conclusions I come to, people will inevitably disregard my posts either because they are too dumb to understand what I wrote, too lazy to read my posts, or are too conceited to even consider that their current conceptions of how things work could possibly be wrong
Mocking these people until they either leave or learn is the only way to remove the cancer. Holding their hands / calmly telling them that they're always right is how we wind up with generation snowflake demanding safe spaces, ect
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
20170214_144204.jpg sorry to start all this. but it locks the rears now .
Hehe. Real life experience always beat numbers, and the fact that a 0.75 cylinder takes 40% + more force to make the same brake pressure. Makes me me wonder how you can say:
"As one can see, switching to the 5/8" master will only make estimated braking torque marginally better."
Obviously something is wrong in your calculations.
And calling people dumb does not make you right.
Do you realize that the guy who is disagreeing with you is not the OP who asked the questions? I suggest you get one or two and de-stress a little bit. You seem wound kind of tight lately. Be my valentine?
- - - Updated - - -
What made the difference?
My guess is the 8 foot long lever. The old one was probably 6 inches. You can't have any fun with just 6 inches.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
yeah. the one it came with was short. ill post another picture of the other one here soon.
Screenshot_20170215-103824.jpg old photo but this was how it sat
My hair is longer than that handle.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
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