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Thread: Looking for some guidance

  1. #26
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    Relative to a lot of people in this forum, I'm a novice, but I've done a couple track days, lots of autoX, and various other driving/track events. I'm a big fan of safety and reliability, which is why I'm doing the rollbar and things like the oil pan baffle. A lot of the mods in the first post were done when I bought the car. Most of the work I'm doing now seems to be fixing leaks!

    I agree, its a "minor" leak as in it isn't shooting coolant and overheating, but it does need to be addressed. I probably won't track the car until its fixed- don't really want to have to replace the head (or engine!).

  2. #27
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    That's a nice little list you've got there.

    Depending on class or series you might want to take the car into, you could look at swapping in a ZHP or e46 330 steering rack. Might faster steering gearing which could be nice, but maybe not necessary on the track. It's a direct bolt in on the e36 and I'd recommend you replace the steering coupler while you've got it all apart.
    Andrew Elmore

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by VaTechE36 View Post
    That's a nice little list you've got there.

    Depending on class or series you might want to take the car into, you could look at swapping in a ZHP or e46 330 steering rack. Might faster steering gearing which could be nice, but maybe not necessary on the track. It's a direct bolt in on the e36 and I'd recommend you replace the steering coupler while you've got it all apart.
    I was looking at a Z3 rack which seems to provide the same benefit. Looking at Rack Doctor, I can get a rebuilt E36 rack for under $200 but a Z3 would be $350 or so (unless the core deposit can work with a different rack). Not sure the improvement justifies the cost. I'll look into the ZHP/330 racks. Good call on the coupler, I'll add that to the list. Should probably do my power steering cooler as well, mine seems to be somewhat crushed somehow.

  4. #29
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    Yeah, I would do the entire PS system as they are prone to leaking. From what I remember about Rack Doctor, which makes sense, is that they don't take in a 325 rack in exchange for a Z3 rack. It's got to be like for like.

    Do some digging on a purple tag e46 rack which came on most of the 330s I think. Almost the same as the ZHP/Z3 rack. I picked one up form ebay for around $200 and so far, no issues. Again, not totally sure it's value on a track car but it makes the car drive around much better.
    Andrew Elmore

  5. #30
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    mslevin is offline Have you checked RealOEM? BMW CCA Member
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    Sweet, thanks for the help. I'll start looking for one.

    To your comment about what class I'll run in- this car is basically just for fun. I think the various mods would make it too difficult to be classed properly. Honestly, I haven't looked into it too much, but for now the car will be a HPDE champ.

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    Since you are looking for engine reliability and being in CA where it's warm, if you are doing the oil filter housing gasket anyway I would consider swapping the housing from an S54 to make it easier to add an oil cooler.

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    ^^^^^^^ What he said+1
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  8. #33
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    Didn't want to start a new thread for this so I'll just ask here: Does anyone know anything about mounting a different mirror, maybe to the stock location?

    Basically because I'm so tall, the rearview mirror gets in the way of my line of sight. I'd really like for the top of the mirror to sit flush against the headliner (as high as possible).

    I ordered a cheap universal mirror from amazon, but I'm worried about getting the stock mounting tab off without breaking the windshield.

    I'm thinking about making some kind of bracket to mount to the roof (or sunshade mounts) that could hold a mirror designed to fit onto a rollbar. Any ideas?

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    I have Longacre part number 22534-22537, that doesn't come with brackets. I just used some aluminum strip material about an inch wide attached to the roof and then the mounting points on the mirror. No problems at all with vibration at speed. Just leave the little tab from the factory mirror on the glass.

  10. #35
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    How did you attach it to the roof? Seems like that'd be a pretty good option.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mslevin View Post
    How did you attach it to the roof? Seems like that'd be a pretty good option.
    Sorry forgot to take a photo today, and now it's back up on the lift and I'm traveling till next weekend. If you have a headliner it will not work. What I have is bent aluminum strips riveted at the roof, following the windshield contour, with right angle tabs riveted to those pieces for the mirror brackets. Also I have a rubber bumper from one bracket tight against the glass to stop vibrations. Photo would be better.... I'll try to remember next week.

  12. #37
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    Quick update:

    • Installed bolt-in 4 point from Ben in CT
    • Installing Sparco Sprint L and Profi II 6H
    • Currently doing oil pan gasket, OPN, VAC baffle, new steering rack, PS lines and reservoir, and OFHG
    • Getting subframe reinforcements and RTAB reinforcements installed next week
    • Also getting all new subframe/diff/rear trailing arm bushings (AKG poly 75D) at the same time
    • Have most of the parts together to do the head gasket
    • Ordered a new roundel for the front, because its not worth going fast if you don't look good doing it


    Thankfully I have a Jeep to drive while this is all happening. Unfortunately I took it offroading on saturday and now it doesn't drive straight.


    Quote Originally Posted by JPJ View Post
    Sorry forgot to take a photo today, and now it's back up on the lift and I'm traveling till next weekend. If you have a headliner it will not work. What I have is bent aluminum strips riveted at the roof, following the windshield contour, with right angle tabs riveted to those pieces for the mirror brackets. Also I have a rubber bumper from one bracket tight against the glass to stop vibrations. Photo would be better.... I'll try to remember next week.
    I have my headliner in and don't see myself removing it. I think I'm going to try to get the new cheap mirror to fit, might just glue the new mounting tab over the old one.
    Last edited by mslevin; 03-13-2017 at 01:37 PM.

  13. #38
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    Another update:

    Cage, seat, and harness are all working great. Went down to San Luis Obispo this past weekend for a meet and the car went great.



    Finished up everything from the last post apart from the head gasket. Decided to get that started and delay the subframe reinforcements. Not really looking forward to this job. Got the whole cooling system pulled out last night, and ordered ARP head studs.

    I should probably just start a build thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brake_L8 View Post
    Good fabricators can weld in a "half cage" in the rear of the car and add to it later to make a full cage. No need to scrap the rear part.

    Safety - no reclining seats, no 4-points. Fixed-back and 6-point only. Make sure you do the same on the passenger side, as your instructor must have equivalent safety to what you have.
    +1 to this. Safety first. If you're just doing hot laps, what matters more, shaving off a few 10ths with some stiffer bushings, or being able to walk after a rollover?

    I have a Mad Hamster half-cage and am a satisfied customer. Very reasonable price and high quality workmanship. Don't mess around with a bolt in. In a bad rollover, they can rip right through where they are mounted. Also, Mad Hamster can built the cage such that they can add the front half later on.l, which is what they did for me. If I ever decide to go W2W they'll be the ones upgrading it. Some of their cages were tested last year in serious high speed rollover and drivers walked away without injury.

    Also, for what it's worth, the cage and proper safety equipment will make a huge difference in lap times. In addition to the confidence boost, proper seats and harnesses keep you strapped in so you can focus on driving rather than staying in your seat. I literally cut a few seconds off my lap time the first day after Mad Hamster delivered my car with cage, seats, and harnesses.

    Edit: I didn't see the rest of this thread for some reason. Good choice going with safety gear. Recommendation for MH still stands if you ever decide to upgrade to a weld-in.
    Last edited by wintershade; 03-31-2017 at 03:14 AM.

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    Well, if he's leaking coolant from his valve cover...he's got more than a minor problem! Check the heater return fitting on the back of the block before ripping the head off. Sometimes a leak there can make it appear it's coming from the head gasket.
    Also, with your HP, any ebay lightweight fly/clutch combo would be fine. I'd pick up a set of M3 cams and valve springs. Cheap, easy HP.

    Perfect spring selection imho....that's my favorite.

    Don

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcvee View Post
    Well, if he's leaking coolant from his valve cover...he's got more than a minor problem! Check the heater return fitting on the back of the block before ripping the head off. Sometimes a leak there can make it appear it's coming from the head gasket.
    Also, with your HP, any ebay lightweight fly/clutch combo would be fine. I'd pick up a set of M3 cams and valve springs. Cheap, easy HP.

    Perfect spring selection imho....that's my favorite.

    Don
    Had a closer look at the rear heater return fitting- I'm 99% sure its from the head. At this point, its coming off anyway! Just need an E8 socket and it'll be off.

    Thanks for the clutch recommendation. Thinking about giving that replacement a shot myself in a month or so. I wanted to get S52 cams but I can't find any for a reasonable price, and I'd like to get the car back together soon. That being said, if some come up in the future I'll go for it. Replacing the head gasket seems to be similar to doing the oil pan gasket, it seems like a huge job at first but now I feel like I could do it again in half the time.

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