I have a quick question. I am trying to get better vocals and mid/hi sound from the two front doors. I am thinking of getting some speakers from Parts Express. Please don't recommend BSW I am not in a budget to drop that much money on sound I am trying to get a better sound from the stock amp and not be so bad on my wallet.
1998 BMW M3 Sedan (C33/Non HK) I already have an AMP/Sub for lows which is connected to the rear speakers for signal (has a hi pass converter).
I have these mids in mind but I am not sure if they are the correct ones and what the impedance and the RMS watts of the stock ones are. Please let me know if the following options are good. I don't mind grinding them down to fit I have a Dremel.
MIDS:
(Highly recommended for HK Systems E36 and E46) Tymphany NE65W-04 2" ( 4ohms / 20 RMS watts / 40 Max watts) http://www.parts-express.com/peerles...ofer--264-1046
Peerless by Tymphany TC6FC00-04 2" ( 4 ohms / 20 RMS watts / 40 Max watts) http://www.parts-express.com/peerles...-ohm--264-1124
Dayton Audio RS52AN-8 2" ( 8ohms / 60 RMS watts / 120 Max watts) http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...range--285-020
Tang Band W2-748SG 2" ( 8ohms / 10 RMS watts / 20 Max watts) http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...river--264-861
Fountek FR58EX 2" (8ohms / 15 RMS watts / 30 Max Watts) http://www.parts-express.com/fountek...river--296-725
AuraSound NS2-326-8AT Whisper 2" ( 8ohms/ 15 RMS / 60 Max watts) http://www.parts-express.com/aurasou...8-ohm--296-252
TWEETER:
I read somewhere that the polk db1? is good but it was on a hk car too so I am not sure if people are using that on non-hk.
I was getting mix information about the impedance so if anyone can enlighten me with the specs for the car. I looked for 4 ohms and 8 ohms speakers.
Current
-1997 BMW M3 4Door Artic Silver w/ Black Interior Daily
Past
-2001 BMW 325i
-1999 BMW M3 Vert White
-1981 VW Rabbit Pickup (Caddy) 2.0 ABA
"I don't care if the door gaps are straight. When the driver steps on the gas, I want him to shit his pants." - Enzo Ferrari
any opinions?
Current
-1997 BMW M3 4Door Artic Silver w/ Black Interior Daily
Past
-2001 BMW 325i
-1999 BMW M3 Vert White
-1981 VW Rabbit Pickup (Caddy) 2.0 ABA
"I don't care if the door gaps are straight. When the driver steps on the gas, I want him to shit his pants." - Enzo Ferrari
Have you looked at any MB Quart speakers? I had a buddy with an E36 M3 with some and the sound was incredible.
-Dmitry
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Hi,
As you've limited your requirement to using the oem amp, there's very little aftermarket choices that correctly work with the impedences the oem BMW setup uses. The BSW's are engineered to make the best of the OEM amp and are what you need for a simple, quick, easy and great sounding upgrade. However, you've mentioned you don't want those, so you'll need to look around to see what other E36 owners have tried and are using which seem to provide the same as the BSW's that are also cheaper and crucially, still available to purchase new. You'll perhaps find references to such components and you'll need to look for those. Have a look on this forum and the E36 section for such threads and look for any products suggested. As an example, for the E39, BSW also do an upgrade, however many owners wanting to keep the oem amp found Boston Acoustics did a component set that worked really well with the OEM amp and plenty went for them as an alternative. Unfortunately, Boston Acoustics pulled out of the Car Audio market and those particular items were discontinued prior to that and were hard to find. Over the last few years, mention of them has faded alot.
Check solutions from MB Quart as referenced above from Pelican Parts, Rainbow and the Polks you've found.
I know you've mentioned non HK, so it 'might' be that aftermarket speakers can work directly with your setup. I just did a quick search and found this although it does reference with HK - https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/hk_speaker_upgrade
Lastly, one 'easy' way to remove all the faff and messing around finding specific drivers is to use a Sound Processor. This unit takes all the outputs from the oem amp and clever makes the signal much 'cleaner' by removing the factory set Equalization curve, boosting the voltage output and ensuring no matter how much you drive the low RMS power weedy oem amp into distortion, the output signal remains free from that distortion. That 'clean' signal is then fed into your choice of amplifier(s) and then it means you can choose any aftermarket speakers that you like. It is more expensive of a route, but in addition to 'simplicity' you get a much better audio quality from the entire setup.
Cheers, Dennis!
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