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Thread: Restoring a 2001 750iL that sat for 3 years

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    But yea, flush it hard with tap water. It doesn't work with antifreeze at all until it's sealed.
    At this point I will give it a try. Will see what happen.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    At this point I will give it a try. Will see what happen.
    Yep. Hopefully it'll buy enough time for you to decide to keep working on this project or sell it cheap.

    If it fails, go ahead and try Bar's Leaks. We're at the throw everything at the wall and hope it sticks stage.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-13-2017 at 09:07 PM.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Yep. Hopefully it'll buy enough time for you to decide to keep working on this project or sell it cheap.

    If it fails, go ahead and try Bar's Leaks. We're at the throw everything at the wall and hope it sticks stage.
    Am thinking of just getting a used engine. Cost to rebuild this one maybe more then used engine.

    What do you guys think, rebuild or get used engine?
    Last edited by masu3701; 03-14-2017 at 08:57 AM.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Am thinking of just getting a used engine. Cost to rebuild this one maybe more then used engine.
    Definitely will cost more, HG is a pretty intensive job. For now, try the sealant and see how long it lasts you. Could be a month, could be 10 years.

    If you get a new engine, salve the ignition bits, alternator, rotors and the MAFs from the current.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-14-2017 at 08:51 AM.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Definitely will cost more, HG is a pretty intensive job. For now, try the sealant and see how long it lasts you. Could be a month, could be 10 years.

    If you get a new engine, salve the ignition bits, alternator, rotors and the MAFs from the current.
    That sealant stuff didnt work.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    That sealant stuff didnt work.
    What were you using? Try a couple more times with some other products, just to get it driveable on 12 for a bit.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-14-2017 at 09:56 AM.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    What were you using? Try a couple more times with some other products, just to get it driveable on 12 for a bit.
    I used Bar's. I really don't need to drive it. I have 2 other cars. Dont want that stuff to clog others things.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    I used Bar's. I really don't need to drive it. I have 2 other cars. Dont want that stuff to clog others things.
    Alright. I think somebody's selling an M73N out of a 2000 for $850 on here. Dunno if he got rid of it yet.

    Yea, can't find that. I guess the Silver car will have to do.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-14-2017 at 10:22 AM.

  9. #209
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    How difficult will the swap be? I mean pulling the engine

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    How difficult will the swap be? I mean pulling the engine
    Pulling won't be too hard, might have to remove the AC equipment.

  11. #211
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    I have an M73N from a 2000... in Kansas.
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  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by psjr View Post
    I have an M73N from a 2000... in Kansas.
    Whats the different between the M73TU and M73N?

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Whats the different between the M73TU and M73N?
    TU means "technical update"... since the technology of the motor itself wasn't updated, only the accessories, the 99-01 V12 is actually called M73N (I assume for something like "new") rather than M73TU.
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  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by psjr View Post

    TU means "technical update"... since the technology of the motor itself wasn't updated, only the accessories, the 99-01 V12 is actually called M73N (I assume for something like "new") rather than M73TU.
    Oh ok..though they were different engines.

  15. #215
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    Got quoted $2200 for labor to rebuild the engine. Plus the cost of the new gaskets and seals

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Got quoted $2200 for labor to rebuild the engine. Plus the cost of the new gaskets and seals
    Yea, that sounds about right so around 3k all in more or less. I'd find another engine.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Yea, that sounds about right so around 3k all in more or less. I'd find another engine.
    I did find en engine with 110k for $800, 30 miles away but who knows how reliable those engine will be or if it wasn't overheated

  18. #218
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    HG failure when overheated is fairly rare, especially compared to say the M54 I6.

    I'd take the risk. Reseal the intake manifold, new WP, and do the ignition components. Does it come with a transmission as well?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    HG failure when overheated is fairly rare, especially compared to say the M54 I6.

    I'd take the risk. Reseal the intake manifold, new WP, and do the ignition components. Does it come with a transmission as well?
    no transmission.

    the intake gasket are expensive

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    no transmission.

    the intake gasket are expensive
    That's why you use a sealant (renzosil) instead.

    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/V1...ughIdleFix.htm
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-15-2017 at 10:49 AM.

  21. #221
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    Weird! So today I decided to put the car on ramps and top off coolant, and replace the extension tank cap and made sure i dont close it too tight. Filled up until coolant start to come out of the bleeder screw.
    After few bubbles out, i started the car and opened the screw at different interval. I was getting less and less bubbles until it was all coolant coming out.

    Took it for a ride and coolant temp stay between 108-110. Mostly 108 if i I keep constant acceleration. Its got to 111 couple times while at a red light but if I put it in neutral and rav to about 2500-3000 rpm it then goes down to 107. it goes to 110 When accelerating to take off or when I accelerate hard, then it goes back to 108 when cruising.
    Was afraid to take it on the high way.

    Now am confused with the blue combustion test I did 2 days ago. Either the test was wrong or the Bar's stuff is working.

  22. #222
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    Probably due to the earlier contamination of the coolant, but was there the same amount of bubbling in the new test-after the Bar's?

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Probably due to the earlier contamination of the coolant, but was there the same amount of bubbling in the new test-after the Bar's?
    No..less bubbles..and when bleeding i got to a point it was mostly coolant coming out of bleeder screw...
    Was over tightning the extension tank cap until after reading not to tight it too much. So replaced cap and tight it just a bit
    Also i dont hear water circulating inside while driving.

  24. #224
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    You were actually hearing the turbulence in the coolant, caused by the air!

  25. #225
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    Less bubbles is a good sign, it means the Bar's working.

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