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Thread: Restoring a 2001 750iL that sat for 3 years

  1. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Thermostat is electronically controlled. As long as it gets up to temp fairly fast, it's doing its job.

    Yes it does get up to temp OK.
    I am somehow concern about the 110 coolant temp while its cold season right now. Am thinking It will go higher when the weather get warmer

  2. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Yes it does get up to temp OK.
    I am somehow concern about the 110 coolant temp while its cold season right now. Am thinking It will go higher when the weather get warmer
    As long as the fan clutch is doing it's job, and you get a new aux fan you'll be good.

  3. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    As long as the fan clutch is doing it's job, and you get a new aux fan you'll be good.
    When does the aux fan suppose to kick in? Does it turn on while driving? or only in traffic or while the ac on?

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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    When does the aux fan suppose to kick in? Does it turn on while driving? or only in traffic or while the ac on?
    -AC on above 45F
    -Past a certain temp (I think 105C)

  5. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    -AC on above 45F
    -Past a certain temp (I think 105C)
    That could be a reason to why the coolant temp going high. The aux fan doesnt turn at all

  6. #181
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    Haven't completely sorted the issue with my cooling system. Now am having major misfiring codes.

    Getting these codes:

    P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)

    P0307 (Cylinder 7)
    P0308 (Cylinder 8)
    P0309 (Cylinder 9)
    P0310 (Cylinder 10)
    P0311 (Cylinder 11)
    P0312 (Cylinder 12)

    P1270

    P1456 ( I know its heated Cats)
    P0141 ( Oxygen sensor bank 1 and 2)
    P0161 (oxygen sensor)
    P0136 (oxygen sensor)



    Where to start. Please help

    NOTE: All the cylinders are on the same side of the block
    Last edited by masu3701; 03-12-2017 at 06:39 PM.

  7. #182
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    Since the cat was gutted, I assume it was just running extra rich and not misfiring until now, get the DUDMD tune once you've solved this. Both O2s should in theory still be functional. Don't worry about the 110C for now.


    Coils, spark plugs dist cap and rotors are the first part, then the plugs. It's fairly a ancient setup and dates back to the M20 era. After that, fuel supply would be the next culprit.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-12-2017 at 07:42 PM.

  8. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Since the cat was gutted, I assume it was just running extra rich and not misfiring until now, get the DUDMD tune once you've solved this. Both O2s should in theory still be functional. Don't worry about the 110C for now.


    Coils, spark plugs dist cap and rotors are the first part, then the plugs. It's fairly a ancient setup and dates back to the M20 era. After that, fuel supply would be the next culprit.

    Well I can't do much when the coolant temp gets up there. now its getting to 111-115. have to always turn engine off to let it cool off or it will go to red.

    When it comes to the misfiring, I remember opening the oil cap and pulling oil dip stick when engine was running. Thinking that that may have turn the CEL. Deleted code. will see if they come back.

    Can someone help me out straightened up the cooling system. Am not bleeding it right. Can hear the water circulating while driving. e

  9. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Well I can't do much when the coolant temp gets up there. now its getting to 111-115. have to always turn engine off to let it cool off or it will go to red.

    When it comes to the misfiring, I remember opening the oil cap and pulling oil dip stick when engine was running. Thinking that that may have turn the CEL. Deleted code. will see if they come back.

    Can someone help me out straightened up the cooling system. Am not bleeding it right. Can hear the water circulating while driving. e
    Yeah, that might be it. I'd start suspecting the fan clutch and water pump at this point.

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Yeah, that might be it. I'd start suspecting the fan clutch and water pump at this point.
    How can I test both the fan clutch and water pump?
    When am driving with slow acceleration the temp seem to stay around 108-111.
    Once I start giving it more gas that's when the temp start rising higher. Or I should say sometime the temp is fine , and then will just go up and up
    Last edited by masu3701; 03-12-2017 at 08:30 PM.

  11. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Been trying to trace a coolant leak but cant find it. I would top it off, drive for a bit, then coolant would be low next time I check it.
    Did compression test, losing pressure very slowly but cant find any leaks. Any suggestions?
    Perform a cylinder leakdown test on misfiring cylinder bank.

  12. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Haven't completely sorted the issue with my cooling system. Now am having major misfiring codes.

    Getting these codes:

    P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)

    P0307 (Cylinder 7)
    P0308 (Cylinder 8)
    P0309 (Cylinder 9)
    P0310 (Cylinder 10)
    P0311 (Cylinder 11)
    P0312 (Cylinder 12)

    P1270

    P1456 ( I know its heated Cats)
    P0141 ( Oxygen sensor bank 1 and 2)
    P0161 (oxygen sensor)
    P0136 (oxygen sensor)



    Where to start. Please help

    NOTE: All the cylinders are on the same side of the block
    Don't quote me on this, but I think the P1456 could just be the ekat module under the passenger seat. I had the P1459 and it was taken care of by replacing the module. In your case though, you could probably just get the DUDMD tune to code that module out of the system in order to run after market cats.

  13. #188
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    Replace oxygen sensors if you haven't done yet, only the front/primary o2 sensors affect engine running, the rear o2s just check for cats and don't affect anything else.
    You could also have a bad distributor, coil pack, maf, or a huge vacuum leak on that bank. So get a smoke test done for both banks to rule out any vacuum leaks, as those are common on the v12 and are hard to find without the use of a smoke machine.
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  14. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDMD View Post
    Replace oxygen sensors if you haven't done yet, only the front/primary o2 sensors affect engine running, the rear o2s just check for cats and don't affect anything else.
    You could also have a bad distributor, coil pack, maf, or a huge vacuum leak on that bank. So get a smoke test done for both banks to rule out any vacuum leaks, as those are common on the v12 and are hard to find without the use of a smoke machine.
    I belive code P1270 is related to the maf sensor.
    I did try to find a vac leak using carb cleaner but no luck. Will try smoke test

  15. #190
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    sent u an email masu with pics of that 5hp30 lmk if u got it and if ur interested.

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post

    Perform a cylinder leakdown test on misfiring cylinder bank.
    Did the head leak test.. turned yellow



    ForumRunner_20170313_131751.png



    ForumRunner_20170313_131744.png

  17. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post

    Did the head leak test.. turned yellow

    <img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=595283"/>

    <img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=595282"/>
    How accurate are these tests? Mine turned yellow right away, even before engine start getting worm.

    What would my options be if it got bad head gaskets?

  18. #193
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    If it turned from blue to yellow right away, that indicates that combustion gases are entering the cooling system.
    The symptoms of a failed headgasket. Seems like you had a lot of bubbling too.

  19. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    If it turned from blue to yellow right away, that indicates that combustion gases are entering the cooling system.
    The symptoms of a failed headgasket. Seems like you had a lot of bubbling too.
    Yes it was bubbling

  20. #195
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    I'm afraid your headgasket has failed. To bring this engine back from the dead, you are going to have to ask someone who is more familiar with a v12.
    I think this is a project you should pass on, but if you have the guts, knowledge and $$$-Good Luck!

  21. #196
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    Head gasket parts are expensive, especially if you replace the intake manifold gaskets too.
    That's about all there is to say on the subject.
    See my E38 parts for sale on eBay: click here!
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  22. #197
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    If you choose to part out, put in some HG snake sealant, drive it until the wheels fall off and even then you can probably recoup your losses without the ekat.

    board75596 did the job on his car and is around sometimes. But honestly I don't think it's worth it unless you're really planning on keeping it and it looks like it was overheated for a fairly long period of time. The other option would be to get the M73 out of the silver car, refresh the cooling\igniton components and replace it, which is probably more feasible.


    Bucks20Engine20Teardown20100.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by psjr View Post
    Head gasket parts are expensive, especially if you replace the intake manifold gaskets too.
    That's about all there is to say on the subject.
    You can also do it like the M70 guys, speyshul sealant and call it a day.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-13-2017 at 06:57 PM.

  23. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    If you choose to part out, put in some HG snake sealant, drive it until the wheels fall off and even then you can probably recoup your losses without the ekat.

    board75596 did the job on his car and is around sometimes. But honestly I don't think it's worth it unless you're really planning on keeping it and it looks like it was overheated for a fairly long period of time. The other option would be to get the M73 out of the silver car, refresh the cooling\igniton components and replace it, which is probably more feasible.

    <img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=595313"/>

    You can also do it like the M70 guys, speyshul sealant and call it a day.
    Does that sealant stuff work?

  24. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by masu3701 View Post
    Does that sealant stuff work?
    In theory, yes. It's not optimal and can take collateral, flush the crap out of the water after compression has been been restored. How long it lasts may vary but there's nothing to lose at this point.

    Some guy on E46fanatics used Moroso 35500 on a built S50 and raced a car for about a year on it, so I'd use that.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-13-2017 at 07:35 PM.

  25. #200
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    But yea, flush it hard with tap water. It doesn't work with antifreeze at all until it's sealed.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-13-2017 at 07:42 PM.

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