Restoring a 2001 750iL that sat for 3 years

[XAlt]

Rad support is done for, one fender, the hood and probably half the front suspension. You have a perfect donor car to fix that Cali car. Shock towers don't look mangled from here.

Doesn't look too bad to fix if you get it cheap, and you won't have to worry about the HG.

[tjpike]

Anything right now is just experimentation, I didn't think that Bar's stuff would fix this engine, and I still dont want to accept that the HG is the issue even though it is.
CEL came on with misfires on cylinders 7 to 12.

Right now my options are:

1- to attempt tiring the engine down myself see what I get. ( Will be a fun learning toy)
2- Pay my bmw buddy (who hasnt done one of this engine in years) close to $3k to pull it apart.
3- Get a used engine and swap. Used are around $1k. But who know whts wrong with them.

My 4th option: ( I like this one)

I came across this 01 750 with a salvage title. California car with 130k
Need minor body work in the front. I just like california cars due to no rust.

Now what will it take to get a reconstructed title and put the car on the road?

Here are some pics.

Attachment 595658 Attachment 595659 Attachment 595660

The 4th option is an 01 750 sport, looks like a black on black too. They are kinda hard to come by. It's a plus that it's a cali car. How much are they asking?

[masu3701]

The 4th option is an 01 750 sport, looks like a black on black too. They are kinda hard to come by. It's a plus that it's a cali car. How much are they asking?

Its being auctioned.. last week one went for $1000.. delivery cost to me is $600.
So will see next week

[masu3701]

So I decided I will start taking the engine apart and see how far I can go. Nothing to lose at this point.
If it turns out bad I will use it as a practice/learning play ground.

Side note: Even with a bad head gasket, this engine drives incredibly smooth. Cant even tell it has issues, which makes me think the head is not the issue, but how else would
combustion gas enter the cooling system ??? And the oil dip stick is clean, not milky at all.

[MIKYZZ4]

It's the head if it failed the combustion gas test. The reason for no oil contamination?, possibly due to only a coolant passage being affected near the area of gasket failure, and not an oil passage. You'll notice this once you examine the head and block decks.

[XAlt]

So I decided I will start taking the engine apart and see how far I can go. Nothing to lose at this point.
If it turns out bad I will use it as a practice/learning play ground.

Side note: Even with a bad head gasket, this engine drives incredibly smooth. Cant even tell it has issues, which makes me think the head is not the issue, but how else would
combustion gas enter the cooling system ??? And the oil dip stick is clean, not milky at all.

Yep, you can take it easy.

[masu3701]

It's the head if it failed the combustion gas test. The reason for no oil contamination?, possibly due to only a coolant passage being affected near the area of gasket failure, and not an oil passage. You'll notice this once you examine the head and block decks.

And through the head gasket is only way combustion gas can enter?

[XAlt]

And through the head gasket is only way combustion gas can enter?

Pretty much.

[MIKYZZ4]

Yes, and the combustion gas bubbles you've observed confirms it.
A real leakdown test can absolutely confirm gasket failure and path of combustion gas escape.

[KSEADUB]

So I decided I will start taking the engine apart and see how far I can go. Nothing to lose at this point.
If it turns out bad I will use it as a practice/learning play ground.

Side note: Even with a bad head gasket, this engine drives incredibly smooth. Cant even tell it has issues, which makes me think the head is not the issue, but how else would
combustion gas enter the cooling system ??? And the oil dip stick is clean, not milky at all.

Awesome! Glad to see you going this route. As you say, nothing to really loose at this point. Especially if its not currently your DD. You can even spread the cost of the expensive parts out over time if thats the case.

In the end, you'll learn a lot and have a freshly re-built v12!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[masu3701]

Awesome! Glad to see you going this route. As you say, nothing to really loose at this point. Especially if its not currently your DD. You can even spread the cost of the expensive parts out over time if thats the case.

In the end, you'll learn a lot and have a freshly re-built v12!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sir...started pulling things out.. not bad so far. Learning a lot actually. Taking a lot pictures as i go.
Here are some picts. Alot of the plastic are hard and do brake. The injectors plastic peaces are dry hard.. one broke.



ForumRunner_20170318_183614.png



ForumRunner_20170318_183641.png



ForumRunner_20170318_183652.png

[MKIVJZA80]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E38-from...1SCMmO&vxp=mtr

[masu3701]

Yesterday it was nice outside, so I went on and did a lil more pulling. Was struggling removing the intake bottom bolts by using a U joint, but then quickly realized that if I took off the injector sound proof out ( 3 bolts), I could
then insert a long extension and go straight down to the bolt. Doing it that way took about 5 minutes per side. At the back of the intakes are the oil separators, one side broke.

So far I have both intakes and valve cover out. It will be cold for the next couple of days, so will see continue when we get a warmer day.

Here are some pictures.

002.jpg

014.jpg 013.jpg 015.jpg 017.jpg

[XAlt]

They look fairly nice, save for all the water and sludge pockets at the front. I'm glad you're saving this from the crusher.

When you get to the pistons, be very careful with not touching the walls. Degreaser and/or sanding will eat the dull grey paste.

[MIKYZZ4]

Glad you're able to view this as a valuable learning experience, and at your own pace and leisure. Must be nice, lol.
Hands-on experience truly upgrades the knowledge level vs knowledge gained from research alone,
good luck and happy wrenching!

[masu3701]

Glad you're able to view this as a valuable learning experience, and at your own pace and leisure. Must be nice, lol.
Hands-on experience truly upgrades the knowledge level vs knowledge gained from research alone,
good luck and happy wrenching!

Yes it is a great experience so far. Taking a lot of pictures, labeling everything, nothing a lot visual notes.

I will need help with the timing as I don't want to mess it up.

[masu3701]

Yesterday it was nice outside, so I went on and did a lil more pulling. Was struggling removing the intake bottom bolts by using a U joint, but then quickly realized that if I took off the injector sound proof out ( 3 bolts), I could
then insert a long extension and go straight down to the bolt. Doing it that way took about 5 minutes per side. At the back of the intakes are the oil separators, one side broke.

So far I have both intakes and valve cover out. It will be cold for the next couple of days, so will see continue when we get a warmer day.

Here are some pictures.

002.jpg

014.jpg 013.jpg 015.jpg 017.jpg

Attachment 596030 Attachment 596031 Attachment 596031 Attachment 596033 Attachment 596034

[masu3701]

Getting ready to attack the removal of the heads.
Can someone enlighten me on how to go about locking the cams and removing the heads. The plan is to remove the heads and take them to machine shop for resurfacing ( is it necessary?).
Do I have to remove the cams, springs, and valves before sending the heads off?

[XAlt]

Getting ready to attack the removal of the heads.
Can someone enlighten me on how to go about locking the cams and removing the heads. The plan is to remove the heads and take them to machine shop for resurfacing ( is it necessary?).
Do I have to remove the cams, springs, and valves before sending the heads off?

The M73 is fairly similar to the M70. The E32 forum should also be useful for help with timing.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/en...0rebuild_1.htm
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1211972

[masu3701]

decided to inspect the head bolts while researching on how to do the timing, and found 2 loose and 1 broken bolts on left side head
and 1 broken bold on right side head. Those that are broken I was able to pull them straight out. All the loose and broken bolts are on the exhaust side

[MIKYZZ4]

They are one time use bolts, are they not? Previous mechanics had other ideas.

[masu3701]

They are one time use bolts, are they not? Previous mechanics had other ideas.

Yes they are. will replace all. was just wondering why they would get loose and brake off

[MIKYZZ4]

Like I said, previous mechanics had other ideas regarding the one-time use policy, lol.
I trust you wouldn't commit such errors. The error of their ways is confirmed by the evidence.

[XAlt]

Yes they are. will replace all. was just wondering why they would get loose and brake off

When the car is repeatedly overheated, these crappy TTY bolts are the first thing to go. It's kind of like the original Northstar, except it isn't torqued to the max and it doesn't happen out of the blue.

Hopefully the threads in the block are good.

[masu3701]

Does anyone know how to remove the exhaust heat shield plates on the side of the heads? Trying to remove it so that I can see if I have room to remove the exhaust manifolds from the top.