Restoring a 2001 750iL that sat for 3 years

[mooll]

gotcha , didn't know what.

[masu3701]

When the weather gets better I will plan on replacing water pump and thermostat.

Didn't turn on the AC when plugged new fan. Though it suppose to come on for a bit when the engine starts, then go off?

[XAlt]

When the weather gets better I will plan on replacing water pump and thermostat.

Didn't turn on the AC when plugged new fan. Though it suppose to come on for a bit when the engine starts, then go off?

No, it's basically an AC support fan or kicks in before overheating.

[mooll]

should be working then when you start the car its supposed to run for a second or at least "twitch"

[XAlt]

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...FQEvaQod9gsIsw

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/11531436852/

should be working then when you start the car its supposed to run for a second or at least "twitch"

Yea, you'd have to be quick with the key.

Use the easy start and run to the front while it cranks.

[masu3701]

should be working then when you start the car its supposed to run for a second or at least "twitch"

It didnt turn when after i plugged it in and started the car.

[mooll]

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https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...FQEvaQod9gsIsw

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/11531436852/

Yea, you'd have to be quick with the key.

Use the easy start and run to the front while it cranks.

except definitely order it/them from FCP euro instead.
we are one state away from FCP, so shipping is always a day with $9 priority mail on any order. and in case you didn't know they have a lifetime warranty, so if the part fails at any time ( which it very well could ) they will replace it again for free quick and easy. also, i think their prices are better, too.

[XAlt]

except definitely order it/them from FCP euro instead.
we are one state away from FCP, so shipping is always a day with $9 priority mail on any order. and in case you didn't know they have a lifetime warranty, so if the part fails at any time ( which it very well could ) they will replace it again for free quick and easy. also, i think their prices are better, too.

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except definitely order it/them from FCP euro instead.
we are one state away from FCP, so shipping is always a day with $9 priority mail on any order. and in case you didn't know they have a lifetime warranty, so if the part fails at any time ( which it very well could ) they will replace it again for free quick and easy. also, i think their prices are better, too.

These guys just had some pics to compare.

FCP is an easy win because muh warranty.

[mooll]

It didnt turn when after i plugged it in and started the car.

It's immediate you'd have to have a helper and all it does it "twitches" not turns

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Gotcha Xalt-just making sure OP is aware of FCP , too.

[masu3701]

It's immediate you'd have to have a helper and all it does it "twitches" not turns

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Gotcha Xalt-just making sure OP is aware of FCP , too.

Oh ok. Will try with the AC on then, at that point should always be on when ac on right?

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except definitely order it/them from FCP euro instead.
we are one state away from FCP, so shipping is always a day with $9 priority mail on any order. and in case you didn't know they have a lifetime warranty, so if the part fails at any time ( which it very well could ) they will replace it again for free quick and easy. also, i think their prices are better, too.

The water pump is expensive, 250$ on FCP

[XAlt]

Oh ok. Will try with the AC on then, at that point should always be on when ac on right?
The water pump is expensive, 250$ on FCP

It needs to be over 45F outside for it to kick in with the AC on. If the water pump is fine, don't worry about it.

[XAlt]

I think DUDMD would know if the M73 stat hooks up to the N.

[masu3701]

I think DUDMD would know if the M73 stat hooks up to the N.

How do I test a bad or good tstat?

[XAlt]

How do I test a bad or good tstat?

The stat's fine if it's fluctuating temp, it's working as intended. The older 90C stat is just better to keep temps down.

[masu3701]

The stat's fine if it's fluctuating temp, it's working as intended. The older 90C stat is just better to keep temps down.

So its probably good then. Temp varies between 107-110, and would go lower at times
Just making sure i dont replace parts that are functioning properly

[mooll]

The water pump is expensive, 250$ on FCP

point being ? oem? that's what they cost.
fan still will TWITCH when u switch a/c on regardless of temp iirc
again itll just twitch not turn

[masu3701]

So its probably good then. Temp varies between 107-110, and would go lower at times
Just making sure i dont replace parts that are functioning properly

Ok so i just topped off some coolant after car seating over night. Just need a lil.
Started the car with cap off and no coolant circulating through the top. Temp got to 95 degrees and at 12o clock and still no coolant circulating.

When should the thermostat open up? the water was rising up and was getting closer and closer to the top of the tank, so I had to close it before it go out.

[XAlt]

Ok so i just topped off some coolant after car seating over night. Just need a lil.
Started the car with cap off and no coolant circulating through the top. Temp got to 95 degrees and at 12o clock and still no coolant circulating.

When should the thermostat open up? the water was rising up and was getting closer and closer to the top of the tank, so I had to close it before it go out.

It's a 105C stat by default.

[masu3701]

It's a 105C stat by default.

So i probably closed it too soon? But Coolant was almost about to come out of the tank. At that poing coolant temp was at around 96

[XAlt]

So i probably closed it too soon? But Coolant was almost about to come out of the tank. At that poing coolant temp was at around 96

Unless it's venting coolant, don't worry about it. When the car reaches 105C or so, it'll open up. When the car's at operating temperature, even letting the cap out a bit will send that coolant squirting out like crazy.

The car isn't overheating, right now your concern is making sure compression is good and there's no cross-contamination.

[masu3701]

Unless it's venting coolant, don't worry about it. When the car reaches 105C or so, it'll open up. When the car's at operating temperature, even letting the cap out a bit will send that coolant squirting out like crazy.

The car isn't overheating, right now your concern is making sure compression is good and there's no cross-contamination.

Took thd car on a 30 miles ride on thr highway and coolant temp not going about 111.
A mile away from home i decided to step on the gas and accelerate hard and there come the low coolant warning light and coolant temp goes past 12o clock. Stoped and let it cool down. Open the hood and coolant coming out of extansion cap

[XAlt]

Took thd car on a 30 miles ride on thr highway and coolant temp not going about 111.
A mile away from home i decided to step on the gas and accelerate hard and there come the low coolant warning light and coolant temp goes past 12o clock. Stoped and let it cool down. Open the hood and coolant coming out of extansion cap

HG is still probably leaking as there's a direct correlation between throttle and coolant loss. The thermostat is doing it's job if it's hanging around 110C even with a leaking HG until it succumbs to overpressure.

It's time to band aid that some more, there's no point in chasing other possible gremlins when the car is running on antifreeze. Just get a couple bottles of the Moroso linked, run it per instructions, do a compression test, report back and see if you can salvage it. After that, we can get to the issue of the aux fan and other minor things that would change things by a degree or so.

[XAlt]

But yea, keep it grounded. You don't want to blow another rad and hose or put internals at risk with watery oil.

[MIKYZZ4]

Let me put it this way, a true fix requires headgasket replacement along with other technical adjustments, details, a lengthy repair procedure and expense.
So a temporary Band-Aid approach to repair is being attempted, which is fine for now. But it should be understood, it will never perform normally in its present condition,meaning you can't expect it to perform as if no damage is present. Remember it's just a Band-Aid to critical internal damage, so light duty usage is required.
Keep expenses to a minimum, and only replace components that are critical to keep it limping along. This type of repair is meant extend the life of a normally driven DD, until eventual replacement.

[masu3701]

Let me put it this way, a true fix requires headgasket replacement along with other technical adjustments, details, a lengthy repair procedure and expense.
So a temporary Band-Aid approach to repair is being attempted, which is fine for now. But it should be understood, it will never perform normally in its present condition,meaning you can't expect it to perform as if no damage is present. Remember it's just a Band-Aid to critical internal damage, so light duty usage is required.
Keep expenses to a minimum, and only replace components that are critical to keep it limping along. This type of repair is meant extend the life of a normally driven DD, until eventual replacement.

Anything right now is just experimentation, I didn't think that Bar's stuff would fix this engine, and I still dont want to accept that the HG is the issue even though it is.
CEL came on with misfires on cylinders 7 to 12.

Right now my options are:

1- to attempt tiring the engine down myself see what I get. ( Will be a fun learning toy)
2- Pay my bmw buddy (who hasnt done one of this engine in years) close to $3k to pull it apart.
3- Get a used engine and swap. Used are around $1k. But who know whts wrong with them.

My 4th option: ( I like this one)

I came across this 01 750 with a salvage title. California car with 130k
Need minor body work in the front. I just like california cars due to no rust.

Now what will it take to get a reconstructed title and put the car on the road?

Here are some pics.

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