E39 seats plug in

[thanasy]

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Hey folks. I have a 1998 528i. My seat has seen better days and seat warmer stopped working. It almost fried my behind one day and now won't turn on.

Regardless i I bought another seat from a 1999 528i and half way installing the newer one I find out the seat plugs (electric wiring) is day and night difference!!!! The new seat i got is the yellow harness.

Is there any harness to add in for this? My seat plug under my seat is black and the other one is yellow! Pins and everything look day and night different. I'm sooo upset right now!

Was even looking to upgrade to the seats seats that come out from under your leg etc (forgot what it's called) but I said to myself keep it simple and the same as my cars original one so no complications.

Any recommendations folks?

Cheers

[DennisG01]

If it's not obvious by looking at it, get your hands on a wiring schematic and see if the actual wires (forget about the plug) have the same functions. If so, you can splice them or put the old seat plug on the new seat's wiring.

[edjack]

There were a number of changes from '98 to '99 that may affect the seat wiring. Might be best to find the correct MY seat.

DennisG01 has a good suggestion.

[thanasy]

Kind of figured that out the 98 - 99 difference now. I didn't even see the difference in harness colour until the newer one was in my car and ready to be plugged in!

[geargrinder]

Whats that? The connectors aren't the same?!? You dont' say! Amazing! Oh yeah. We knew that, sorry.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ack-Connectors

Bottom line, not huge deal, you need to hack the seat connector out of your old seats, or go hack one from a junkyard car, and splice it into the new seat, but all the wire colors are the same..
Then you need to swap the pretensioner over from your old seats.

Rob (hackmechanic) says heat never worked 100% but never reported if that was bad seat or wiring or what...

[jicaino]

Remove the entire wiring on your old seat and use it on the new donor. All the lenghts and connectors will match. The only thing you need to take care of is the belt pretensioner which on your car will be single stage and in the newer seat will be dual stage.

[thanasy]

So remove my wiring that go into my old harness that's black? And then what?? I think I'm confused. Lol

[DennisG01]

I was saying to splice the old seat connector onto the new seat's wiring (cut the new seat's connector off) if the wiring matches. But it sounds like Jicaino is saying that you can remove the ENTIRE wiring harness from the old seat (and the entire wiring harness from the new seat) and install the old harness back in to the new seat.

[thanasy]

I actually heard on the radio today some guy goes to the dealership once a year to have them remove his license plate cover (4 screws) so he can put on his new stickers on his plate.

Having said that im definitely NOT that guy but removing wires transferring back and forth for me may be abit challenging or hectic.

I was was thinking maybe if I can find another seat with black harness somewhere and just take my loses on this one I bought. I only paid $40 bucks for it. But cost me $50 for mechanic to take out old one put in new one and then put in original one again. Just in case anyone was wondering. Lol

Will I be able to get those fancy seats (think they are called comfort) to fit in my car if it's same harness. Anyone know even if they had them made this early or does anyone have them installed?

cheers

- - - Updated - - -

Remove the entire wiring on your old seat and use it on the new donor. All the lenghts and connectors will match. The only thing you need to take care of is the belt pretensioner which on your car will be single stage and in the newer seat will be dual stage.

By removing old wiring you mean all the wires?? or the plug that has like 4 wires that plugs into the back of the harness??

[geargrinder]

Yeah taking the whole harness out is a good route but not without labor intensity too. I just tried to do this on a seat that was in a car 2 weeks ago and gave up. The harness is secured a lot of places and way easier if the seat is out and upside down.

I'd just splice the connectors myself since the wire code is all perfect - just a dozen butt splices or a
So..... but at least the seat needs to be Unbolted and tipped back.

And... Yeah the comfort seats are drop in easy. But obv you want a yellow connector seat or you're in the same boat!

- - - Updated - - -

Oops I mean black connector seat - forgot which way you were going !

[thanasy]

Yellow is most definitely not my favorite color today!!!

[angeleye540i]

<img src="http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=591538"/> <img src="http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=591539"/> Hey folks. I have a 1998 528i. My seat has seen better days and seat warmer stopped working. It almost fried my behind one day and now won't turn on. Regardless i I bought another seat from a 1999 528i and half way installing the newer one I find out the seat plugs (electric wiring) is day and night difference!!!! The new seat i got is the yellow harness. Is there any harness to add in for this? My seat plug under my seat is black and the other one is yellow! Pins and everything look day and night different. I'm sooo upset right now! Was even looking to upgrade to the seats seats that come out from under your leg etc (forgot what it's called) but I said to myself keep it simple and the same as my cars original one so no complications. Any recommendations folks? Cheers

the e34 heated seats have been known to catch fire... Had a friend, well moms ex BF that lost his e34 to a fire started by the seats... I havnt heard of e39 doing that, but I suppose enough time has passed with enough cArs out there, just about anything is possible and likely to have happened at least once somewhere...

[angeleye540i]

Sport seats are what's u refd... Totally recommend unless u have back problems and need adjustable lumbar, altho I'm not even sure the comfort seats had that on e39, someone here knows I'm sure... But even tho lumbar is not adjustable, it is supportive in the sport seats

[angeleye540i]

Sorry I have never unplugged seats so I can't really address your problem, u could splice and make a hybrid and or conversion harness if u are good enough with either teeth scissors or wire trimmers... I use my teeth but I've been wiring stuff forever...

Oh , what the grinder speaks of ^ is what I was saying... I didn't know it was a direct 1-1, but hey that's what I'd do if so... It's not as hard as u may think, if you have never spliced and wired stuff without harness before... Just a few tricks to keep in mind... A) know how much wire u have to work with and plan accordingly, u may need to extend some wires if u cut them too short and or can't get enough wire to work with after stripping insulator... And B) never leave any wire exposed or touching ANYTHING metal or conductive and of course not ANY OTHER WIRES... Those basic rules and you are good to go... Everyone has there own little tricks beyond that... I can't stand the splice caps that require non parallels, and look messy, the heat shrink looms are best IMO, less messy, but WCS u can use any kind of tape, but SHOULD use electric tape...

[angeleye540i]

The splice caps would be good for a hybrid harness tho, for a three way on each wire

[jicaino]

Yes, I was suggesting remove the entire wiring harness and swap it back in on the donor. It's indeed a little bit labor intensive

If you don't want to splice the cables, the connectors swaps. I mean, the black housing and the yellow housings are just that, housings that hosts the various other connectors that host the terminals. The only thing that needs adressing is the dual vs. single stage belt pretensioner. That needs all the wiring and connector replaced (you need to remove the leads from the main harness because the wires and connectors are different).

If you're not comfortable removing the seats by yourself, then it's most definitely out of your league (no offense intended, just stating it plain and clear so you don't "balls up" on a strager's suggestion and go stretching out on DYI'ng something that you'll get frustrated and wn't be able to finish)

Good thing for you is that there's way more comfort seats that have the black connector than the yellow one. They're heaven. You get shoulders angle regulation, lumbar support, tighs support, a bunch of nice adjustments. The only thing that might require rewiring is active seats feature or ventilated seats feature. I wouldn't use heated seats, they can catch on fire, that's a real risk, not just internet myths. IIRC Stuck bought and restored a very nice 528i/5 (metallic red over sandbeige) that had been totaled out of seat catching fire. He did a wonderful job and then sold it to a guy who totaled, so I guess the poor car couldn't escape its ultimate faith.

[Qsilver7]

The e38 & e39 use the same front seats. Click the following link to a 2014 reply that has images of all the e38/e39 electric seat options (except the 10-way basic electric seat): http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post27564661

The dual stage airbag system started with the 3/99 build date...so any e38 or e39 on the same side of that build date can swap front seats (plug-n-play)...except for some special options like the "active comfort seats" from a 750il (booty massaging feature)...or if you did not have heated seats and want to swap in heated seats...then there are a few extras you may need to wire up etc...as well as add the switch in the switch unit below the IHKA control panel.

The 750iL's "active comfort seats" were 16-way comfort seats with 2 bladders in the lower seat that when initiated fill and release to create a gentle rocking motion of the lower pelvis to help prevent fatigue on long trips...or anytime you feel like you need a booty massage.

the e38 & e39 had multiple "electric" seats:

up to 3/99 build date:

• 10-way basic seat (can be 14-way if optioned with 4-way lumbar feature)
• 16-way comfort seat (has 2-way upper articulating back + 4-way lumbar feature to the basic 10-way seat)
• 12 - way sport seat (used only on the e39 in the US market) has 2-way extending thigh support to the basic 10-way basic seat + larger side bolstering

after 3/99 build date:

• all the above
• 18-way sport comfort seat: adds 2-way extending thigh support + 4-way lumbar feature + 2-way upper articulating back to the basic 10-way electric seat. Also adds larger side bolster along with extended bolstering up into the headrest area

[thanasy]

So if I located another seat with the black harness to match my original one will it be okay?? Or do I have to start counting pins etc? I located a seat and the seller is telling me the harness is black. He says he has both style seats for sale the sport and comfort.

Thx everyone for your info. Wish I could buy each one of you a beer!!

cheers

[jicaino]

So if I located another seat with the black harness to match my original one will it be okay?? Or do I have to start counting pins etc? I located a seat and the seller is telling me the harness is black. He says he has both style seats for sale the sport and comfort.

Thx everyone for your info. Wish I could buy each one of you a beer!!

cheers

Throw a keg party and fly us all there. We'll bring the tools and take care of the seats for you. :

[geargrinder]

the e38 & e39 had multiple "electric" seats:

up to 3/99 build date:

• 10-way basic seat (can be 14-way if optioned with 4-way lumbar feature)
• 16-way comfort seat (has 2-way upper articulating back + 4-way lumbar feature to the basic 10-way seat)
• 12 - way sport seat (used only on the e39 in the US market) has 2-way extending thigh support to the basic 10-way basic seat + larger side bolstering

after 3/99 build date:

• all the above
• 18-way sport comfort seat: adds 2-way extending thigh support + 4-way lumbar feature + 2-way upper articulating back to the basic 10-way electric seat. Also adds larger side bolster along with extended bolstering up into the headrest area

Q - For some reason I was under the impression that there was even a more basic electric seat, in between manual and the 10-way? The kind of thing spec'd in base cars for non-NorAm markets just above the stripper manual seat? Am I wrong about that?

[Qsilver7]

As far as I know...for the US market...the e39 base seats were either manual or the 10/12/16/18 way electric offerings. The basic electric seat always had at least 10-ways (on the e38/e39). The base has 6 arrows for the bottom seat movements front/rear tilt + up/down + back/forth. Then the back had 4 arrows for upper seat back movements: forward/backward + headrest up/down.

The 3 series and the e53 had different electric seats...maybe you're thinking of those? For instance, the basic electric seat in the e53 did NOT have electric headrests...so it's basic electric seat only had 8-way movements. But like the e38/e39...the lumbar option could add its 4-way movement to create a 12-way basic electric seat.

Someone just posted a 2003 e39 brochure PDF not to long ago...I can't remember if that was here or over on BimFest's e39 forum. But if anyone downloaded that PDF...they could look up the info in the back to double-check the seat offerings.

[jwwetzel]

I think the connections to the motors themselves are the same, regardless of the main harness plug.
you might have to take the back panel off the seat to get to the seat motors in the back rest. then you could unplug the motors from the harness & re-use your old harness plugged in to the motors on the new seats. look up your old seats & the new seats on realoem.com, that's what i did to get the idea.

your other option is the old/ new wiring harness main plug splice...which is what i'm considering doing. I'm not a mechanic' not an electrical genius either. I'm just a stubborn bastard that's to stupid to fail...Once I start a project the ocd kicks in & I won't give up.

[Jason5driver]

My seat about burned my @ss off today on the way home from work.
Can the seat be fixed, or do I need to replace it?
2000/9 build date with standard comfort seats (black leather).

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

My seat about burned my @ss off today on the way home from work.
Can the seat be fixed, or do I need to replace it?
2000/9 build date with standard comfort seats (black leather).

The original seats, well, the drivers seat in my wagon burned my left thigh 2 years ago, literally burned a hole through the leather. The heat elements gone bad or something and almost had a run away that can cause a fire. Stuuck bought a red E39 that he flipped years ago, documenting what he replaced and cleaned up, that fire looked pretty bad, passenger side, the whole inner door panel was all melted up. I never fixed mine, I found a clean set of the 16 way comfort seats out of an E38 at a local yard last year.

[Jason5driver]

The original seats, well, the drivers seat in my wagon burned my left thigh 2 years ago, literally burned a hole through the leather.
The heat elements gone bad or something and almost had a run away that can cause a fire.
Stuck bought a red E39 that he flipped years ago, documenting what he replaced and cleaned up, that fire looked pretty bad, passenger side, the whole inner door panel was all melted up.
I never fixed mine, I found a clean set of the 16 way comfort seats out of an E38 at a local yard last year.

I need to find some good E38 or M5 seats...
I am not sure if it is the cushion or the heating element that is the problem (burning my leg and bum).