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Thread: M10T in 6 weeks on a budget

  1. #1
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    M10T in 6 weeks on a budget

    The challenge is on.

    A week ago i figured that my e21 m52t project is going to take longer and will be way more expensive then i thought.
    Though i am not trying to abandon my plans. I am just putting the m52t project on hold until I build m10t.

    I decided to challenge myself and build my other e21 on a budget.

    I decided on stock m10 with low psi turbo.

    I contacted Rapidspool and ordered good N tight manifold. Eta for manifold is between 4-6 weeks. Here comes my challange. I want to have everything ready before the manifold arrives.

    So far i prepped the engine to be pulled out


    I pulled 36-1 trigger from ford escort that i am planning to weld to stock crank pulley



    I build ms2v3.0



    And ordered bunch of parts to complete the build.

    The idea is to run t3-50trim or tdo4-15/16 and push around 10psi (for now).

    Ms2 will be set up with 36-1 trigger and wasted spark using logic level lsx coils.
    I might also use ms for boost control.


    For all interested how much the budget build cost here it comes:




    I guess its not that budget anymore.
    2550 so far and it will be more likely 3500 once i am done. Note that i will be using free volvo 4 pot brakes, free 30lb injectors, stock HG, stock head bolts and stock clutch ( until i burn it).




    Plan for today?

    Thanks to captain awesome i will be getting my m10 efi manifold. I will clean it and prep it for painting.




    And here is safari beige that will receive this setup.









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    Last edited by Retoropak; 01-25-2017 at 10:56 AM.

  2. #2
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    I'll follow this with interest. I've been thinking that megajolt might be a good way to upgrade my points ignition while allowing for full EFI and standalone ECU down the road.

  3. #3
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    I'm interested in this as well. Is it going to be an ebay turbo or name brand? The m42 I'm putting in needs a turbo in it's life, but I would like to do it on the cheapish side if possible.
    91 318is
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    I'm interested in this as well. Is it going to be an ebay turbo or name brand? The m42 I'm putting in needs a turbo in it's life, but I would like to do it on the cheapish side if possible.
    Nah i don't want to use Chinese knockoff turbos. However one of my friends was pushing close to 22psi on his ebay turbo in the celica alltrac for a good year without any issues.

    To keep it budget friendly i am looking for used garrett 50/57 trim in need of rebuild or td04 from volvo/saab.

    Tdo4-15g/16t should be a good match with quick spool. But i will probably max out around 200whp

    T3 50 trim is similar and will not flow much past 180-200whp



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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by WantingAfunE21 View Post
    I'll follow this with interest. I've been thinking that megajolt might be a good way to upgrade my points ignition while allowing for full EFI and standalone ECU down the road.
    Not hijack but I have a megajolt for sale for like $100 if you're interested.

    Op if you need a base tune to get started let me know.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retoropak View Post
    Nah i don't want to use Chinese knockoff turbos. However one of my friends was pushing close to 22psi on his ebay turbo in the celica alltrac for a good year without any issues.

    To keep it budget friendly i am looking for used garrett 50/57 trim in need of rebuild or td04 from volvo/saab.

    Tdo4-15g/16t should be a good match with quick spool. But i will probably max out around 200whp

    T3 50 trim is similar and will not flow much past 180-200whp



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I like it. Manageable turbo size selection with moderate output, but probably wider more usable power ie not a dyno/burnout queen. MS and LSX coils, great combo. I still remember Otis (good n tight) and the 380ish output before he S'd a stock m10 connecting rod. Pretty sure went 6pot after that.
    88 M3
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    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by audioscience10 View Post
    Not hijack but I have a megajolt for sale for like $100 if you're interested.

    Op if you need a base tune to get started let me know.
    Thank you. I could definitely use some help i this department. It will be my first ms install and tuning attempt.


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    I like it. Manageable turbo size selection with moderate output, but probably wider more usable power ie not a dyno/burnout queen. MS and LSX coils, great combo. I still remember Otis (good n tight) and the 380ish output before he S'd a stock m10 connecting rod. Pretty sure went 6pot after that.
    Yep i read couple of Otis posts. The way his original m10 manifold looked scared the hell out off me. I hope the one he makes for me will be a little more shiny.


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  9. #9
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    Couple things happen today.

    I received some goodies.

    Tial 38mm


    Amphenol bulkhead connector


    I also got some mosfet drivers to build the lsx coil outputs.

    Then i decided that i will clean up my garage and prepare for pulling the motor and this happen





    Oh well i will clean my garage tomorrow.


    Up next:

    Degreasing, cleaning and prepping for new engine paint and new gaskets.


    Btw all of my kjet stuff is for sale. Let me know if you need something.

    Also i have a ac compressor (big square box. Is it york?) for sale.





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  10. #10
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    Now I feel lazy. Can't tell from the pic, but did you have to remove the intake to pull?
    91 318is
    83 320is

  11. #11
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    M10T in 6 weeks on a budget

    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    Now I feel lazy. Can't tell from the pic, but did you have to remove the intake to pull?
    No, intake can stay. The only thing i had to remove was alternator. Honestly i have no idea how it is possible to pull the intake with engine still in the car. There is a fuel dizzy and bazillion of other things blocking the access to the bottom intake bolts.


    Pulling the motor was fairly easy. Disconnect whatever is connected to the motor i.e. Hoses, wires, cables and exhaust. Remove the alternator and dizzy. Disconnect driveshaft and remove shifter plate and linkage. Remove radiator and pull the motor.

    Be careful not to destroy your brake fluid reservoir. Intake mani might want to hit it.


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    Last edited by Retoropak; 01-27-2017 at 09:25 AM.

  12. #12
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    I'd even go one step further and drop it out the bottom, but that was a nice pull! Doesn't look like you hit anything
    -John

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Somjuan View Post
    I'd even go one step further and drop it out the bottom, but that was a nice pull! Doesn't look like you hit anything
    No i did not hit anything. You have to wiggle it a little to clear the steering rack. Bottom of the bellhousing clears the rack by only fraction of an inch. But once it clears it will come out without any issues.
    I didn't even think about dropping it instead of pulling. But then i would have to drop the subframe and remove suspension and lift the shell high enough to get the motor out.


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retoropak View Post
    No, intake can stay. The only thing i had to remove was alternator. Honestly i have no idea how it is possible to pull the intake with engine still in the car. There is a fuel dizzy and bazillion of other things blocking the access to the bottom intake bolts.


    Pulling the motor was fairly easy. Disconnect whatever is connected to the motor i.e. Hoses, wires, cables and exhaust. Remove the alternator and dizzy. Disconnect driveshaft and remove shifter plate and linkage. Remove radiator and pull the motor.

    Be careful not to destroy your brake fluid reservoir. Intake mani might want to hit it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    One thing I like to do is re-route the engine wire harness afterwards to make sense and easy to remove later. Factory seems to snake it around everything causing choice words. I imagine laughter as they do things like that on assembly. Sure it probably made packaging of drive train neat to go down the line and drop in.

    If don't pull anything off these engines at least pull the distributor itself so doesn't get damaged. Usually when tilting the engine to wrestle it out it's the first interference area that always gave us trouble when going in or out.

    Yeah the only intake that comes off easy is a carb one but at that point not much in the bay anyways.
    Last edited by autox320; 01-27-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  15. #15
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    M10T in 6 weeks on a budget

    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    One thing I like to do is re-route the engine wire harness afterwards to make sense and easy to remove later. Factory seems to snake it around everything causing choice words. I imagine laughter as they do things like that on assembly. Sure it probably made packaging of drive train neat to go down the line and drop in.

    If don't pull anything off these engines at least pull the distributor itself so doesn't get damaged. Usually when tilting the engine to wrestle it out it's the first interference area that always gave us trouble when going in or out.

    Yeah the only intake that comes off easy is a carb one but at that point not much in the bay anyways.
    At least they made separate harness for the engine.
    Yep my new efi harness will have couple connectors in strategic places to make it easy to remove components or pull the engine. This one will be used for lsx coil harness.

    Main harness will have a bulkhead connector.


    One more thing to mention. I hope i will never have to replace the starter.

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    Last edited by Retoropak; 01-27-2017 at 11:47 AM.

  16. #16
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    M10T in 6 weeks on a budget

    Today i cleaned up the engine block and painted it.







    Another question: How do you seal the timing covers without replacing headgasket?
    Also the stock head gasket is 0.051 or 0.07" thick. I am thinking about going with .120 mls and arp studs to drop compression a bit if it will help me with pushing more boost. There is one thing you guys have to remember: The sooner you grenade the motor the sooner you will build the new one.

    How much torque/hp stock pistons can take before they melt or the ring lands fail?
    Last edited by Retoropak; 02-25-2017 at 10:06 PM.

  17. #17
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    No pics show up for me?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    No pics show up for me?
    this is the first time i used imgur. Let me repost.




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  19. #19
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    Much better. The color on the block is a nice touch.
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  20. #20
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    I sprayed my block the same color back when I did the m20 swap. Looks great
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retoropak View Post
    Today i cleaned up the engine block and painted it.
    Another question: How do you seal the timing covers without replacing headgasket?
    Also the stock head gasket is 0.051 or 0.07" thick. I am thinking about going with .120 mls and arp studs to drop compression a bit if it will help me with pushing more boost. There is one thing you guys have to remember: The sooner you grenade the motor the sooner you will build the new one.

    How much torque/hp stock pistons can take before they melt or the ring lands fail?
    I like color painted blocks too. I use Ford diesel grey. Makes any leaks or issues much easier to see than factory black.

    I build entire engines with just headgasket and valve cover gasket, the rest with loctite 518/permatex 51813. Long as it's a machined surface which most bmw engines have you can completely seal it with loctite 518. No more gaskets ever. On the headgasket I like to spray coat both sides with loctite 99ma. Lots of down talk of MLS and I've never used them. If I did though I'd probably do what the Swedish turbo guys started long ago by taking the rivets out, coating each layer with loctite 99ma/3020 euro version, then rivet back together. MLS leaks between layers with high boost. Another downfall is finding a machine shop that can properly surface block and head for a MLS. The RA finish has to be very fine like a mirror for them to seal without failures. Most fail due to poor finish.

    If was me I'd just use a stock gasket spray coat it and studs. Your next limit would be my guess, but cast piston ring lands come to mind. Otis didn't seem to have issues with cast stock pistons, but apparently the rods are only good to about 350-400 Maybe if blow a motor just get some arrow rods and forged pistons.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I should add can also use yamabond or mistubond. Both very good anaerobic sealers like the permatex 51813.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    I like color painted blocks too. I use Ford diesel grey. Makes any leaks or issues much easier to see than factory black.

    I build entire engines with just headgasket and valve cover gasket, the rest with loctite 518/permatex 51813. Long as it's a machined surface which most bmw engines have you can completely seal it with loctite 518. No more gaskets ever. On the headgasket I like to spray coat both sides with loctite 99ma. Lots of down talk of MLS and I've never used them. If I did though I'd probably do what the Swedish turbo guys started long ago by taking the rivets out, coating each layer with loctite 99ma/3020 euro version, then rivet back together. MLS leaks between layers with high boost. Another downfall is finding a machine shop that can properly surface block and head for a MLS. The RA finish has to be very fine like a mirror for them to seal without failures. Most fail due to poor finish.

    If was me I'd just use a stock gasket spray coat it and studs. Your next limit would be my guess, but cast piston ring lands come to mind. Otis didn't seem to have issues with cast stock pistons, but apparently the rods are only good to about 350-400 Maybe if blow a motor just get some arrow rods and forged pistons.
    I believe Otis run JE's on his
    M10 with stock rods.
    Oh well i will go with stock 0.07" hg arp studs and will see what happens. If i blow hg i will oring the block. If i blow the pistons i will get CPs or JEs forged units.

    At this point probably i will have to swap getrag 260 and medium case diff


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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retoropak View Post
    I believe Otis run JE's on his
    M10 with stock rods.
    Oh well i will go with stock 0.07" hg arp studs and will see what happens. If i blow hg i will oring the block. If i blow the pistons i will get CPs or JEs forged units.

    At this point probably i will have to swap getrag 260 and medium case diff
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Least file the ring gaps maybe open them up a bit from stock. Guess say top ring 20 thou or so, second ring 5 to 10 from that. Just thinking out loud. Factory trans yeah may not like that much torque and eventually give out.
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  24. #24
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    I have seen a couple stock m10s fail under boost lately, both in different ways. Shane's 2.0 blew the ringlands at 225hp/292ftlb. Not sure where he was at for boost. The other one I saw failed was a 1.8 with stretched rod bolts.
    My thinking is those are your 2 weak points. I have heard people saying 15psi on a stock 1.8. I personally ran a kjet car for a year at 13psi.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by audioscience10 View Post
    I have seen a couple stock m10s fail under boost lately, both in different ways. Shane's 2.0 blew the ringlands at 225hp/292ftlb. Not sure where he was at for boost. The other one I saw failed was a 1.8 with stretched rod bolts.
    My thinking is those are your 2 weak points. I have heard people saying 15psi on a stock 1.8. I personally ran a kjet car for a year at 13psi.
    I guess it will be wise to source another block and 2.0 crank just in case and start building it


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