Door Won't Unlock Both From Inside or Outside Car

[NolliM3]

SO, yesterday I got stuck at the gas station occupying a lane for three hours...driver door would not open and passenger side had been double locked. The central locking system wasn't popping the passenger when unlocking trunk and the remote showed the driver door unlocked. Had to get POP-A-Lock to use the inflatable bag to open the passenger door. When I had gotten home, I attached DIS for diagnoses and got these...see pictures.









So, based on the RealOEM diagram, it appears the door lever (number 6) on the driver side broke however, I am puzzled as to the fault code of the ZV...the thermoswitch on both doors responded...what does that mean? My passenger door will not lock with the remote despite the remote having a new battery, nor will the window roll down. The passenger door will only double lock.

How to take the door panel off with the driver door lock? Is my issue with the passenger door the actuator?

[dworthy]

Yes, #6 goes to the lock mech.

As for the thermoswitch, that is a defrost option which turns on when the temps get below 38 degrees, and you lift/hold the door handle up.

Do you even see the plunger move up/down when the key is in and you attempt to turn it?

What happens when you lock/unlock from the passenger side? Or the trunk? Do you get the normal sounds from the rest of the car? Also are you using a remote to lock/unlock the car?

[328 Power 04]

The actuator interferes and fails to open the door sometimes. My Z3 roady just started doing this.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_0939 #9

[NolliM3]

Yes, #6 goes to the lock mech.

As for the thermoswitch, that is a defrost option which turns on when the temps get below 38 degrees, and you lift/hold the door handle up.

Do you even see the plunger move up/down when the key is in and you attempt to turn it?

What happens when you lock/unlock from the passenger side? Or the trunk? Do you get the normal sounds from the rest of the car? Also are you using a remote to lock/unlock the car?

Thank you Dworthy for responding...I understand the thermoswitch...was more wondering as to why such message would show under diagnostic faults instead of status.

Yes, the plunger does go up and down with the remote (driver side)...to unlock, it goes up then comes back down...only if the passenger side is double locked. If the double lock is disengaged via the trunk then, the driver side plunger stays up however, the door can't unlock because the lever is either broke or disengaged.

An important info I forgot to mention earlier is that the PO had some problems with the driver door where the key lock mechanism went bad and instead of fixing, and of course, the expenditure, they installed an aftermarket remote on the driver side. It does unlock the car; however, the double locking controls only the trunk and passenger side.

The passenger side since last week will not lock with the remote or with locking from the trunk. The only way to lock the passenger side is to double lock by pushing the plunger all the way down from inside the car...that's how I discovered that, double locking like that, locks the fuel door. I don't get the normal sound when I unlock the trunk only because the passenger side doesn't unlock nor will the passenger window roll down. I checked all fuses today (under hood) and all are good. Yes, remote only...key doesn't insert into passenger side.

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The actuator interferes and fails to open the door sometimes. My Z3 roady just started doing this.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_0939 #9

Thanks 328 Power 04 for responding...based on what you're experiencing, then the actuator on the passenger side of my car died...it was doing what you're now experiencing with your car for some time.

(Side note: helping Chris out was AWESOME!)

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Searching always reveal others with the same issue without any resolution.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ide-OR-outside!

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ide-Or-Outside

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ide-or-outside!

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-from-inside

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/474380

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/door/panel.htm

What I don't understand is why BMW would design any system such as the door locking/unlocking that when there is a problem, one can't open the door from INSIDE the car...doesn't make sense. How am I to fix the problem if I need to open the door to remove the door panel? The last two links show some info while warning that the door panel will be messed up during the process. I have to get the driver door open to fix.

[shogun]

That is the purpose to make a lock system bullet proof against car theft.

In case there is such problem, the dealer/workshop has the T*S how to proceed. We should not make it too easy for the car thieves.

This is the info from an old T*S for the E34 rear doors, maybe also works on the front on E36, onfortunately I could not download years ago the drawings for the procedure when I found that):
E34 locked rear door procedure
Special repair note: If the rear door lock actuator fails when the door is locked, the door cannot be opened to replace the actuator. The following procedure can be used to open the door without cutting the door trim panel.
-remove 3 screws retaining door trim panel at upper mount of grab handle, inside door release handle, and behind ashtray. Remove plastic door knob.
-Open the window and, using a putty knife or trim removal tool, carefully pry the uppermost part of the door trim panel away from the chrome trim by the window opening to get the upper retaining clips to release. The insertion of the tool is eased somewhat by pressing down on the trim panel.
-Carefully pry the trim panel back, and use a small block of wood or screwdriver handle to hold it away from the door.
-Use a long, thin screwdriver to reach between the trim panel and door, and peel the insulating sheet away from the door so that you can see the end of the lock actuator.
-Use a bar, or a long, heavy screwdriver to reach inside the door and contact the white plastic end of the actuator that the lock linkage hooks up to. Hit the end of the tool so that the white plastic end breaks off, disconnecting the linkage from the seized actuator. The door can now be unlocked and you may proceed with the repair in the usual manner.

[NolliM3]

That is the purpose to make a lock system bullet proof against car theft.

In case there is such problem, the dealer/workshop has the T*S how to proceed. We should not make it too easy for the car thieves.

This is the info from an old T*S for the E34 rear doors, maybe also works on the front on E36, onfortunately I could not download years ago the drawings for the procedure when I found that):
E34 locked rear door procedure
Special repair note: If the rear door lock actuator fails when the door is locked, the door cannot be opened to replace the actuator. The following procedure can be used to open the door without cutting the door trim panel.
-remove 3 screws retaining door trim panel at upper mount of grab handle, inside door release handle, and behind ashtray. Remove plastic door knob.
-Open the window and, using a putty knife or trim removal tool, carefully pry the uppermost part of the door trim panel away from the chrome trim by the window opening to get the upper retaining clips to release. The insertion of the tool is eased somewhat by pressing down on the trim panel.
-Carefully pry the trim panel back, and use a small block of wood or screwdriver handle to hold it away from the door.
-Use a long, thin screwdriver to reach between the trim panel and door, and peel the insulating sheet away from the door so that you can see the end of the lock actuator.
-Use a bar, or a long, heavy screwdriver to reach inside the door and contact the white plastic end of the actuator that the lock linkage hooks up to. Hit the end of the tool so that the white plastic end breaks off, disconnecting the linkage from the seized actuator. The door can now be unlocked and you may proceed with the repair in the usual manner.

Thank you Shogun for responding. The door lock system was a faulty design and that's why BMW made changes on the 96 - 99 E36 models; however, I have seen E46 and E92 models during my search having the same exact problem. If I have the legitimate keys in hand, I should always able to get in the car and that wasn't what I experienced at the gas station. It seems that my driver side lever might have broken, and the passenger side actuator went bad thus rendering the double lock system inoperable.

What you shared should work except I may need to remove the driver seat. I also found this thread as well: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...eplacement-DIY

[dworthy]

Removing the driver's seat will give you more space that you will need to pull the panel off.

[NolliM3]

Removing the driver's seat will give you more space that you will need to pull the panel off.

Dworthy...So, took the passenger door panel off to get ideas how to remove the driver door panel while the door is locked only to discover the hardware unglued from the panel...unbelievable cheap piece of sh*t for a BMW! That just zap my energy and I left it for another day.

[dworthy]

Yes, sorry to inform you that BMW used crappy glue during the 90's. The door panels will come apart and leave all the plastic bits still attached to the door.

Have you ever heard of Gorilla Glue? You will have to clean the contact surfaces to remove all the black gooey stuff, I like to use a razor blade and rubbing alcohol. Then you follow the instruction, and have to let it dry overnight. There are several DIY's on the E-36 sub-forum on how to do this fun.

[328 Power 04]

Aahhh yes... the era of BMW experimenting with recycled materials to be more environmentally friendly and natural...

[NolliM3]

Dworthy...So, took the passenger door panel off to get ideas how to remove the driver door panel while the door is locked only to discover the hardware unglued from the panel...unbelievable cheap piece of sh*t for a BMW! That just zap my energy and I left it for another day.

Yes, sorry to inform you that BMW used crappy glue during the 90's. The door panels will come apart and leave all the plastic bits still attached to the door.

Have you ever heard of Gorilla Glue? You will have to clean the contact surfaces to remove all the black gooey stuff, I like to use a razor blade and rubbing alcohol. Then you follow the instruction, and have to let it dry overnight. There are several DIY's on the E-36 sub-forum on how to do this fun.

Today, I removed the driver seat and discovered how easy it is to remove the driver door panel. I also discovered the driver door panel that is original, had all hardware held on with the original glue...it's solid too. So, if that's recycled material, then it's hardcore. The PO changed the passenger door panel and might have used glue that's not meant for this application.

I looked at the mechanism, and it appears the lever on the driver door attached...so, it's probably the actuator that's bad. I tried to disconnect the actuator, and it wouldn't budge...I'll try again tomorrow. The PO had done a hack job with an aftermarket remote instead of changing and having the dealer re-keyed.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/RCQ9no]



So, I did clean the surfaces on the passenger as best as possible. I would like to find that black glue...Gorilla glue might have been used by PO or something similar. I have used Goop Marine in the pass on another car and would most likely use it again if I can't get that black glue especially to attach the sound barrier. Anyone knows where to get the black glue, if it's available?

[shadowpuck]

I believe it's 3m window weld.

[NolliM3]

Aahhh yes... the era of BMW experimenting with recycled materials to be more environmentally friendly and natural...

The driver door panel had all the hardware attached with that black glue...so that environmentally friendly stuff is bad to the bone...that panel is original to the car. Would love to get some to attach the sound barrier...know where?

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I believe it's 3m window weld.

AWESOME!!!! Thank you! Was that also used to secure the hardware to the door panel?

[dworthy]

I have used Gorilla glue for my panels and other's as well. It is a tan color, and holds like no tomorrow, as I had to remove the panels several times and they are still in one piece.

See if you can loosen the thorx bolts holding the actuator in place and manually unlock the car, this should allow you to open the door.

[shadowpuck]

If you are talking about fixing the panels themselves - I've always used a two part epoxy.

[ross1]

He's talking about the black goo that holds the vapor barrier. Pretty much any sticky glue or caulk will work for re-attaching the plastic vapor barrier sheet, duct tape works fine as well.
OP If you pry off the actuator( it just snaps on) the lock should open.
#9 here;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_0939

[shadowpuck]

yup, was aware he was talking (initially) about the vapor barrier, then he asked about the panel itself...

so, to reiterate, the suggestion i've received and used in the past was 3m window weld for the barrier and 2-part epoxy for the panel....

[NolliM3]

yup, was aware he was talking (initially) about the vapor barrier, then he asked about the panel itself...

so, to reiterate, the suggestion i've received and used in the past was 3m window weld for the barrier and 2-part epoxy for the panel....

Well Shadowpuck, for the cost of the 3M Window weld, I could get the Gorilla black tape (high temperature) and PC 11 A/B 2-part epoxy...I'll use the tape for the vapor barrier. They're on the way to me.
Screen Shot 2017-02-01 at 3.52.37 PM.jpg Screen Shot 2017-02-01 at 3.53.53 PM.png

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He's talking about the black goo that holds the vapor barrier. Pretty much any sticky glue or caulk will work for re-attaching the plastic vapor barrier sheet, duct tape works fine as well.
OP If you pry off the actuator( it just snaps on) the lock should open.
#9 here;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_0939

Thanks Ross1 for responding...I got the door opened by just removing the connection to the actuator...I have purchased the replacement and will try to figure out how to remove the actuator with undoing any screws when it arrived...I look pictures with a Borescope camera, but it still wasn't clear what to do.

[shadowpuck]

*shrug* wouldn't be my choice, but, hey, it's not my car!

[NolliM3]

*shrug* wouldn't be my choice, but, hey, it's not my car!

The Gorilla tape...well, whomever did the work for the PO, didn't install the vapor barrier properly; so, the barrier is all crumpled up from folding and thought using the tape will help it to lay flat. With 35yds, I have plenty left over for other use.