The cracks in my leg bolster were kind of high so I hit the whole area first with 320 grit sand paper, then 600. You can see the leveling taking place from the discoloration.
Here's the interesting part and the part I and most others are going to find challenging: the filler. They send along a very fine crack filler. It works, as far as I can tell, like a very flexible Bondo. You can sand it, too.
The first hard lessons learned were to apply only as much as you need to fill the crack and don't be sloppy. Apply only as much as you care to sand off. Wipe that excess up!
Here's what happens if you don't clean it up... LOTS to sand!
That's better. The areas you fill should look like a scab left behind after you cut yourself. It may take several layers to fill so just use a little at a time. You can aid the cure with a heat gun but keep it moving and don't overdo it, as the filler will bubble on you.
Once it's cured to the touch, feel the area with your hand. If it feels pretty smooth you can probably move on. If you can still feel a low spot you will need more filler. I needed about 3 thin applications for these.
After it's cured to the touch you will still need at least 24 full hours to get a sandable cure. Waiting is always the hardest part. For your sake, like a cooking show I am going to move along to a spot that has already been leveled to show how to use the dye.
Last edited by typed by ben; 03-04-2017 at 10:28 PM.
While we wait for the leg bolster to dry, let's go ahead and color the side bolsters of the seat bottom, which I filled last night. I used filler very sparingly as these cracks were what I consider to be superficial, and would cover very well just using dye.
This side bolster has already been cleaned after leveling so we are ready for dye. The dye smells a lot like latex paint but it's quite a bit thinner. You will need to do multiple coats to build up color. More on the build up part later.
Mask off anything you don't want dye on.
Keep the dye bottle AWAY from your work area. Carelessness =
They give you a big chunk of sponge. I always cut a little piece off to use and leave the rest just in case. This is layer 1 of dye, in progress. You can barely tell the difference.
Flash with the heat gun after applying to coat to aid cure.
Layer 2. Is this dye working?
Layer 4. Yes, I think it's coloring...
Layer 6
8th and final layer
Some side by sides for contrast. Not sure if the dye is a little bit yellow or my leather was just that dirty and faded. The dyed color is very appealing. Buttery.
So... The wrap up.
1. Probably best to order the semi gloss sheen for your dye. I got the satin and it looks not that great, more like a true flat. I may end up getting a bottle of the semi gloss to cover up. The satin looks like thick makeup.
2. The dye builds up really badly in the stitching and makes the seats look like fake injection molded leather-appearance plastic.
3. The conditioner they send is pretty meh. I used the Leatherique reconditioner I had left over and that helped.
4. This is very time consuming and subjective work and the result is not all that breathtaking. It's a 5 footer for sure- looking into the car from the glass you say "Wow! Nice interior!" but once you get in and actually see the stitching and feel the leather, you might start to second guess the effort.
5. These cracks in my leg bolster were my first effort at filling, but they are probably too big and too split to be properly filled, at least by an amateur. If you have cracks like these consider calling in reinforcements; you will probably be glad you did.
6. If you can at all spare it, dye your seats outside of the car. That keeps the dye itself out of your interior, yes, but with the seats on a bench you can make the area you are working level with the ground. That will help the dye self level and avoid bubbles or chunky spots.
Last edited by typed by ben; 03-04-2017 at 10:52 PM.
Looks not terrible at least. This is a project I need/want to do to mine as well, eventually.
Also for the A Pillars, I had a similar deal when I got my car. No A pillars at all and one of the C pillars didn't have any tabs, so it was sitting on the back seat. Buying a new replacement in black, which is the stock color, costs a fortune. However, you can buy a gray piece at about 1/2 the cost, then using some black fabric spray paint for $5, you have what you need. It's a little rougher to the touch, but how often do you actually touch your pillar panels?
Or you can make the attachment tabs, use bonding material.
wish I thought of that!
I did think of this- just didn't want a half measure. I have done that to cheaper cars but this one deserves better IMO
Interestingly- more water under the car but from the pump itself, which I just replaced. All I can think of that would break two water pumps in a row is excessive belt tension. Going to have to see what the hell is going on with my tensioner in the coming days.
My god this thing can give some headaches.
Nice thread Ben, excellent documentation.
I found the same with the seats, mine have been dyed at least once before I got the car and they look okay from a distance, but are on my list to repair properly with new leather at some point. The person who did mine was much more sloppy than what you did which didn't help.
I'm more surprised anyone leaves it. First thing I'd do is peel that eyesore off...
Always interesting to see what people value.
Caprica Junkie
That makes me feel a little better. Maybe I am way off- the only results I have seen posted are fantastic, factory original appearing results. Probably there's a reason those are the only results you see. Now that the dye has cured for a few days and I'm nearer to getting the whole seat done it looks better. And I have done what I can to keep dye off the stitch work. All those little things add up. But the cracks will never look new again.
I always wanted a *new* one- not going to put a paper filter and all that back in it but I'd like it to look as close to off the truck as I can get, within reasonI'm more surprised anyone leaves it. First thing I'd do is peel that eyesore off...
Always interesting to see what people value.
not sure how i've missed this thread, but great work! i'd very much like to have a nice e36M at some point to complement the gripmissile.
and boston is second only to avus IMO.
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
thank you for the kind words
Spent another $150 today and made some discoveries. You may recall that I am looking at replacing a water pump because of seal failure after only about 100 miles. Here is some more backstory:
1. Belt route was wrong but I didn't know it. Whoever put the belt on last time wrapped the belt UNDER the eccentric instead of over. I should have known something was up when it was damn near impossible to get the belt back on.
2. I think he did it because the tensioner is locked up- and if that doesn't beat all the socket head cap screw that holds the pulley on is rounded out. That tensioner assembly was a sonofabitch to get out. Took almost an hour of faffing around with socket and universal combos.
This could be confirmation bias- but I think excessive tension from the improper belt routing and the locked up tensioner trashed my idler and tensioner pulley and also side loaded the water pump, egging out the seals and causing it to leak, almost instantly, from the weep hole. The car also sounded like a heard of mice going down the road.
I also found there is another oil leak, up high, from somewhere near the filter housing. It's wet pretty much everywhere below, and there is fresh engine oil running down the front cover to the power steering lines, eventually dripping off on the passenger side.
Supposedly the gasket is new. I am going to clean this whole area and maybe add some dye so I can see exactly where the leak is. I want to get that fixed basically before I reinstall all the tensioner stuff. It is a more than superficial leak- seems to originate around this banjo bolt. Not sure I want to know how the hell you get to that.
Last edited by typed by ben; 03-08-2017 at 04:51 PM.
Totally could be that VANOS oil line (that's, I believe, what that is in the picture, although I can't tell for sure).
I assume valve cover gasket's been done? oil filter housing gasket is a pretty easy job, too. And those banjo bolts, sometimes it just takes the right washers to fix those leaks. I used a regular old copper washer on some banjos in my power steering and they leaked even though everything was new. Replaced with an OEM washer (looked up the part number on realoem and all that) and it made all the difference.
Man what a night.
Threw new parts at the car- hydraulic shock take up/tensioner, tensioner pulley, eccentric idler, and water pump- this time one with a cast impeller. THat means I've had all three styles- milled, welded, and cast. We'll see how this one lasts.
Good news is with the correct belt routing and new pulleys the front of the engine is quiet again. The herd of mice has been evicted.
The catastrophe came when I took the oil filter lid off and the o-ring did not seat. Oil everywhere. Good lord what a mess. Won't forget to check that part again.
I also did just a little experimentation with a fan delete. I have read people's thoughts and like most everyone I think I'd like to install a puller if I do take the mechanical fan off. It gets plenty hot here in the summer and I'd just like to have the insurance- cheap insurance at that- in case I do get some heat in the car that the radiator can't get rid of.
Last edited by typed by ben; 03-13-2017 at 09:02 AM.
Been running without the fan for about 150 miles now. Engine temps are the same and it has been warmer here- 70s all weekend. Can't decide if I want to just keep it OEM or go with what I believe to be the superior system, an electric auxiliary fan. For the work involved I might just put the fan back on.
Also trying to decide on my next update- 3 spoke M-tech steering wheel, Depo projector headlights, or dent removal. I need a new clock spring in any event so that is really pushing me in the steering wheel direction. I have wood accents so a wood grain wheel I think would look pretty sharp.
Really would like to get into a set of forged DS or LTW wheels too. That's a big line item on the budget but I noticed over the weekend that my Contours are not a matched set.
Last edited by typed by ben; 03-27-2017 at 10:09 AM.
i've put off upgrading my stock headlights on the daily for almost a year.
i regret it every time i drive it at night.
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Had some idle time waiting for a delivery today so I did another layer of filler on the passenger seat. Need to get that redyed and then order another bottle of dye for the back.
I also tackled my door handle trim. Absolutely baffling until you find the slider, then actually, pretty easy. I understand this is more challenging to do on the coupes because you can't see it. I found a great video of the lock assembly and slider pin location that will get you in the right area: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGE7ncBE_vQ
Some others had said that you need to make a tool, have the door off, etc. I didn't find that to be the case. I did heat up and bend an old screwdriver but it was actually way too big. Ultimately I used a right angle screwdriver and a paint key- both were the perfect size and gave the right amount of leverage.
When I was installing the new trim I pressed in on the thinner top portion to help the hooks seat as the slider was retracting. You may find that you need to jiggle or work it in different ways so the pin can retract easier- that way you don't have to beat on it at all.
It also helps to go ahead and use some clear moly lube on your door handle axles and hinges and the slider pin itself. Makes reinstallation way easier and helps the door handle actuation feel new.
The weather sucks in Virginia right now, but I am one of the fortunate garage privileged M3 owners.
Let's see, to get you all up to speed:
Spring is here and that means a lot of my free time and funding is going to golf. Still devoting resources to the dream car project though. I get a huge smile every time I see it in the morning.
Paintless dent man came by two weeks ago and I was really shocked at the job he did. The spots I had him repair were like there was never even the slightest bump- and the metal was creased! Unbelievable. Not cheap and on a 22 year old car there's a lot of work for him. I'll have to save up some more and have him come back and work on the roof and deck lid.
I've also been slowly redying the seats. Passenger seat is 60% done but I am 100% out of dye. For an entire worn interior I'd guess you need something on the order of 32 oz. From here on in that project, I I am just going to go ahead and take the seats out of the car and airbrush the dye to get a more even finish. It takes probably 10 coats of dye to lay flat with the sponge they supply. I can also flash with air instead of the heat gun and I think that will leave fewer "high" spots in the dyed areas. That will also help with lighting/shadow, which is tough to do with the seats in the car.
I have also undertaken a rite of passage in the E36 community: door panel repair.
I bought a plastic slot-and-tab replacement kit for the window sill from a guy on eBay. The parts are very nice and heavy- good replacements for the OEM version which totally disintegrated last time I took the panel off. Price was out of this world for injection molded plastic though. The dies cost a lot to make I'm sure but materials are fractions of fractions of a penny. Oh well. When you need a part, you need a part.
All this from just trying to fasten the interior handle to the door frame.
Next up: more dye and vent window trim and seal replacement.
I'm impressed. You're fixing all of the things that I have neglected to fix for the last 10 years.
I think I'll go fix something now.
Fantastic looking M3 btw. I wish I would have picked up a green one or something less common than cosmos schwarz. Too late, I'm married to my car now.
Ted Teten
1995 M3 Coupe - S52'd
got lots of QT in on the interior today. Trying to stretch the leatherette stuff on the card is a PITA. It will never look right. Did BMW put these on with an autoclave or something? Ridiculous
Switching to an airbrush for the dye was just what the doctor ordered. Lays down nice and even. You don't even have to thin it- just drop it in the cup and away you go. I sprayed about 50 PSI, four to five coats
New steering wheel should be here at the end of the month.
these things, they continue
Refurbished 3 spoke euro wheel with airbag. Feels very nice in the hands but the horn button is a bit sticky, as in, sticks in the "horn on" position
I gave my original wheel wheel and airbag away. To my surprise that thing got snatched up in just a couple of hours.
Interior trim replacement continues as well. I have a new B pillar seatbelt adjuster cover as well as the very hard to find C pillar with courtesy light cover. Some jabroni used a wood screw to attach my current one. Thanks a million.
Hello everybody! Been a quiet few months for me as summertime activities dominated my schedule, then transitioned into an unexpectedly busy holiday season.
The return January and of cold temperatures and bad weather has meant time in the garage and some interesting discoveries.
My leather reconditioning has not held up so well, especially in the driver's seat. I just don't think the leather has enough natural moisture in it to survive the stress of someone getting in and out. Darkened hairline cracks are stating to appear on the areas I repaired. Dang.
I ordered an old computer and got my tiny ADS so I can start to do engine diagnostics.
I replaced a bunch of seals around the glass. The interior pieces over the rear seats are not sitting right. I feel like you really need to know what you're doing to get that stuff to sit right.
I replaced the headlights with some ebay depo projectors:
And apparently the car has never had a good MAF on it. I had been chasing a poor idle quality and weird power delivery issue for a while- sometimes better and sometimes worse, sometimes giving me a PO1221 for the O2. The car has a Turner PROM and larger injectors so I just assumed that came with the territory. Wrong! I finally broke down and did some shade tree diagnostics yesterday and found out I had a bad MAF.
I ordered a Bosch on Amazon last night before bed and it was on my front porch at 10:45 this morning! Awesome. Swapped it out and did a test drive.....
This is a brand new car. Power delivery is so much more smooth it almost feels like it's lost top end, because power in the low end and VANOS activation RPM ranges are so similar now. The car idles well and doesn't try to stall when I coast. You can barely feel the engine running at idle. So much better. I took some pics to celebrate.
So I still need to take care of some engine oil leaks, which I think is just going to be crush washers on the tensioner and the VANOS oil supply line. There is also still a leak somewhere in the rear- guessing a rear main? I may wait until it's clutch time to tackle that.
I got a little mad money left over so I think I am going to replace or rebuild my VANOS piston this month. So that leaves against my original list:
[X] Airbag light
[X] Bad expansion tank sensor
[X] BAD oil leak. Bad enough that it burned on the exhaust manifold after the first night I took it out
[X] BAD power steering seepage. The entire driver's side of the engine below the reservoir was black with grit and fluid
[X] Coolant leak from passenger side
[X] Shifter knob wouldn't stay on
[X] Squeaking steering wheel
[X] Interior worn (some cracking and discoloration)
[X] Vent window trim replacement
[ ] 2-3 small dents (hopefully can be hot glued out)
[X] Fuel pump housing crack- horrible fuel smell in the cabin the first time I topped it off
[ ] VANOS piston service
Heck yes!!! Awesome progress!!!
1997 BMW M3 - Boston Green/Modena
Awesome work!
About your door panels - was the vinyl delaminating? If so, process did you use and what adhesive to get it to all stick again?
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Bookmarks