Nice day out here in Virginia. Took the car out of the garage to get sunlight because I thought it needed it (???) Whatever. Still love just looking at the car.
Man, I want to thank you for your thread and pics. Honestly. I always thought my steering wheel was just plain, black, and ugly. I have a 98, but it has the same wheel as you. Last night I decided to also try dishsoap and a toothbrush. It's like a have a whole new wheel! (the pics were taken before I applied leather conditioner, so it looks particularly bad, and really, the leather isn't in great shape anyway)
All this time I didn't think tri-colored stitching was even a thing for this car. I'm psyched, it's like a new free mod
Ben, we're going to try to meet up at the Village Shopping Center saturday morning around 8am. There is a starbucks there towards the end opposite of the Martins where we meet up first, grab some coffee, and then head over. The weather is looking pretty nice this weekend, so hopefully you can make it out.
Look into the Richmond BMW Owners Facebook group if you haven't already and we'll post more information there. Hope to see you out, and sorry to hear about your radiator. I've got a spare at my house that holds just fine, just doesn't look the best. It's an old aluminum radiator for Ireland Engineering.
What are we doing to fix window regulators that do not have the correct size hole for the door card attachment hardware? I'm fairly certain this regulator is new and it looks like one of the hole sizes is not correct. According to realoem the screws are self-tapping, but they do not show any kind of insert in the oversized hole. I could drill it out and install a rivnut but I'd rather not.
10 or 12 mm diameter holes unevenly spaced on either side of the regulator axle
Spoken like a true enthusiast. I have a similar experience where my dad finally made me realize BMWs are not as "out of reach" and obnoxiously expensive as people make them out to be. I wouldn't have any other type of car. The quality and experience is there and you can tell in the first minute of driving one for the first time. People always tell me to "just sell it." I get triggered instantly because they just don't get it! When you're mentally and literally invested in a machine, it becomes a part of you. So you feel an obligation to maintain it or upgrade it. Or even just to drive it.
I've got a sedan, so different regulators. But, IIRC I think if your OEM regulator has never been removed, you do actually have to drill it out.
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
Saturday morning feeling
Ground Control coilovers. Not sure of the rates. Hard to find information about the set.
I also just experienced what you originally experienced...after all these years I've gotten my hand on one of the early model '95 M3's (with the cool LTW badging here and there - a BF93 made in 03/1994) and am absolutely rock hard...have been for three weeks. Should probably call a Dr.
1995 BMW M3/2/5 - Alpine White - Vaders - Stage II Maxsil Pistons, Chipped, 24# Injectors, MagnaFlow Exhaust, and heated door locks!
Fixed the door card to window regulator bracket snafu today.
As I said above the new regulator body had some clearance holes in it where the BMW manual calls for a self tapping size hole. I still think there is an insert that is not called out in any assembly drawing because I can pretty much see it on the passenger side, but that door card is intact- never been removed- and I'd like to keep it that way given the hassle that is removing a 22 year old E36 door card.
First I tried lots of plastic clips. Virtually everything I had and then some. Nothing held very well and they do not lend themselves to servicability there behind the handle.
There was some reconstruction involved after I got the door card off. I have a hot melt gun that I use for things like this that need to cure with a little flexibility
Earlier I thought that I'd just put a rivnut in the big holes to secure the center of the door card, and sure enough that's what I did. I'm not going to chase BMW documentation all over the planet.
We use these all the time at work and they are really handy for blind applications. I got two 1/4-20 aluminum blind rivnuts from work and brought home the setting tool.
~$3500 Italian rivnut gun
Two new rivnuts- looking ALMOST OEM in there. You can see the goldish linkage axle and my two blind rivnuts flanking it
Stiffness on 100
Glad that is done.
Next project is probably gonna be... replacing the radiator. You all were right. I drove all day Sunday and it leaked pretty much everywhere I went. Not good!
Last edited by typed by ben; 02-21-2017 at 07:40 PM.
Good news from last night. Seems like it's not the radiator that's leaking at all and instead the lower hose, or the clamp- something about how it's clamped is keeping it from sealing. Funny thing is I think that was a hose that was replaced by the PO. This guy kept decent records for sure but some of these "replaced" parts are giving me trouble.
Hmm, something is missing...
There we go
Turner actually called me up a few weeks ago to confirm if I ordered that sticker on purpose. They said it's never once been ordered from them, ever, and the lead time was 6 weeks. lol
got some goodies in the mail today
First, sometime while my car was being inspected, the A pillar cover fell off. I got in the car, closed the door, and down it came into my lap. I had no idea there was anything wrong with it. These things don't come cheap, even used. The salvage yards were picked over too so I had no choice but to pay premium prices on eBay, but the parts I got are nice.
And some supplies for the next big project, after I figure out why my lower rad hose is leaking. Very excited to get this light champagne interior looking new again
Car is looking nice, definitely feels good checking things off one by one on the to-do list. Keep it up.
CBlock
Thank you! In fact you have reminded me to update my to-do list:
What I actually needed to fix:
[X] Airbag light
[X] Bad expansion tank sensor
[ ] BAD oil leak. Bad enough that it burned on the exhaust manifold after the first night I took it out
[X] BAD power steering seepage. The entire driver's side of the engine below the reservoir was black with grit and fluid
[ ] Coolant leak from passenger side
[X] Shifter knob wouldn't stay on
[ ] Squeaking steering wheel
[ ] Interior worn (some cracking and discoloration)
[ ] Vent window trim replacement
[ ] 4-5 small dents (hopefully can be hot glued out)
[X] Fuel pump housing crack- horrible fuel smell in the cabin the first time I topped it off
Thats one nice rivnut gun..... I'm kind of surprised no one has ordered the fuel sticker. Can't wait to see how the seats come out, keep up the good work.
"**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."
I have the same color interior and need to do the same. Definitely following this one
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all right, the leather restoration thread.
I will try to get facts only along with my impressions as a consumer. Overall I am pleased, but, the job is still best left to a professional. When you see guys offer group buys on leather restoration for a couple hundred bucks, take them up! You may buy the material and spend the time doing it yourself and you may STILL end up calling in a professional :\
I bought the Leather Restoration Kit from Leather World. I just picked the color and quantities and they did the rest. This kit ran me $112. It includes a leather cleaner, a scuff pad, leather filler, leather conditioner, backing material, a "putty knife", and a pair of nitrile gloves (gee thanks). Those are ordered from most useful to least. The putty knife is a joke. It's more like a bookmark. You can find something easier to use and more durable at an arts and crafts store.
When you get the kit read the directions first. There are some good pointers that will save you effort. Other than that the process is straight forward. Here's the first area we will work.
The very first thing you do is clean the leather with the supplied cleaner and scuff pad. You may take off a little of the old dye when you do this step.
Then you wipe with a clean cloth and let it dry thoroughly.
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