schrick!!
eyeballing a car w/ one instlld......
Ive NEVER even seen a car w/ one.....in like 15 yrs....lol
looking for comments......I searched a bit but no answers
I've had one on my car for 4-5 years now. Most hate on it because of the price, but it's the best mod for an S52. I've run the full gamut of N/A, from stock+Schrick to FBO (intake, cams, headers, etc). The other mods were a waste of money IMO. The Schrick has nice top end gains with no loss in low end and has excellent fit & finish. The ideal K.I.S.S. setup would be a Schrick manifold, good software tune, and a mild catback exhaust which actually makes it a better value proposition in the end. Puts you around 240whp with zero compromises. To get an extra 15whp at 7k rpm you have to spend another $2000+ and perform intensive labor that just isn't worth it.
It took me a long time to come to terms with parting with my Schrick manifold because it's such a cool piece but now that I am FI its benefits are negated by other things, so I reluctantly switched to the M50 manifold at the advice of my tuner.
'99 Estoril Blue + Dove Grey ///M3 coupe
'04 Jet Black + Cinnamon ///M3 coupe
It is probably a good compromise manifold. But the M50 manifold out flows it. And think about how the M50 manifold was used on 2.5L M50 without complaint. An S52 with M50 manifold will still have more torque than an S50, M52 or M50 as well as more horsepower than any of them.
jvit...
thnx 4 that insight.
But I must say Ive driven some s52s w/ fbo and cars were close to 300 crank......very very strong......but all had m50 IM.
I know a car fs w/ this schrick IM so I was wondering..its just such a unicorn item
K I S S?????
Buy car with it. Sell manifold to someone who thinks its really special. They seem to go for $500-1000. Buy $75 M50 manifold with proceeds.
Yes. You always shit on it. And the 2.5L reference is fair, but no one COULD complain because there wasn't an alternative. And that argument fails to acknowledge how many people think the extra torque down low of a 3.2 is nice. Yet everyone who puts an M50 manifold on immediately notices the loss of it. So it's up to the individual to decide if they will make that compromise, but the Schrick doesn't give up much to either manifold.
True the M50 is only ~$75 but don't forget the other $200+ for a quality adapter kit.
S52 with FBO can be strong, but when you add up the cost they absolutely pale in comparison to any S54 or FI.
KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid
'99 Estoril Blue + Dove Grey ///M3 coupe
'04 Jet Black + Cinnamon ///M3 coupe
Having driven an S52+M50 car a few times, and owning an S52 stock car...that extra torque is fantastic. I personally find the S52 manifold low end torque way better than the last 1000rpm of pull for an M50'd street car. I like my S54 (a lot) but around town the stock S52 feels gruntier.
If I could swing it (i.e., wasn't in the midst of a move....) I'd jump on yours. I almost wonder if Schrick manifold + supercharger would be a good street car/DD combo.
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
I would not recommend an M50 manifold alone -- I agree you lose noticeable bottom end and your stock redline limits your top end gains.
But as part of a well thought out package of mods, it is a great one. European Car proved that years ago (M50 manifold, tune, intake, Schrick cams). They plugged much of the bottom end tradeoff. Had they done headers and a track pipe, their results would have been even better. Another good mod to make the car feel torquier is to change to a 3.38 diff. An electric fan conversion and underdrive pulleys also help. I have done all this stuff over the years. Here is the European Car article:
Attachment 590252
You can buy a fancy $200 manifold installation kit if you want, but if you don't want to, you can also DIY your own kit for $20. I certainly don't have a fancy $200 kit on my M50 manifold and my DIY has worked fine for the past 11 years.
Good info here from MotoIQ to help people make informed decisions:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...MW-E36-M3.aspx
It comes down to a matter of personal preference and driving style. I am actually not a frequent redliner. I like good low end power, and I feel like I have enough of it. But everyone should do the research and see what they think will work for them. If they want an expensive compromise manifold, I think the Schrick is the only one around.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 01-10-2017 at 08:18 PM.
I had a Schrick manifold, looked nice and worked fine....had to ditch it to fit the aftercooler for my supercharger kit as it is slightly wider than an m50 manifold (without having the schrick manifold custom machined) and the m50 has worked great as well.
I do remember that was I was NA, I had slightly lower peak dyno numbers than others with the same mods and an m50 manifold vs. me with the schrick. Obviously car/dyno/conditions play into that as well but it was pretty consistent.
Man, you all are talking like it's a big ol mountain of torque you lose, when what you are really meaning is about 8 lbft., and most of that is really in an area under the curve that nobody uses. Like 2000 rpm.
It's not like a LT1 that makes almost 400lb-ft at 2000 rpm...
No matter where you go, there you are...
All the bolt ons on my car make 237rwhp. Probably make in the low 240's on a dyno at sea level. The tune did a really good job of filling in the loss of low end torque...
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
Wouldnt you lose more like 15% at 5000 feet or is there an altitude correction built into the dyno?
thnx to all..........some good in the know dudes here........thanx
car looks like its getting a PPI today..and not by me...sigh..I think its gone
The dyno does correct for altitude (mostly). So I won't gain the 18% back that I've truly lost but the dyno can't quite accurately account for it. My 237rwhp here is probably somewhere around low to mid 240's rwhp at sea level...
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
i cannot remember what these even look like.
17 posts and no pics
I had to go google what this looked like too lol.
To my point earlier, the setup you mentioned is a waste of money nowadays. It would cost around $4000 to get you to only 260whp. I've done all of those things and regretted it. Hence recommending a manifold, tune, and catback. $1000-1500 wakes the car up and gets you the majority of the gains, while also being very easy to DIY.
Find a centri S/C for $2500 and make more, or spend $4k on a nice turbo setup and make way more. And at that price point, you are also in S54 swap territory.
Yup. They always point out how you can gain the lost torque back with software, but forget that it's possible to make even more than before lol
For you guys who want pics.. all three manifolds here:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=564698
'99 Estoril Blue + Dove Grey ///M3 coupe
'04 Jet Black + Cinnamon ///M3 coupe
Pretty sure $4000 isn't getting you an S54 swap. That'll get you the motor, but that's just the start for the swap...
Not worth doing a centri supercharger setup unless it's intercooled. A rear diff swap will be just as quick otherwise and more consistent.
Also depends on what you're using the car for. For instance I can't add forced induction to my car, I'd break out of my time trial class.
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
I like the intercooled supercharger, turbo, and S54 options. I have done tbe intercooled supercharger, the turbo, and all tge bolt on mods. Have not done the S54 swap but with over 600 rwhp, I am not really feeling the need. I am also not the biggest fan of the 8000 rpm motors that trade torque for top end power. I have one of those motors in my E90M3 with a bunch of bolt on mods. Honestly, I really like my turbo E36M3. Its got about over 500 lbs rwtq and has about as much low end torque as a stock M3.
This.
I was close to doing an S54 swap but the ultimate cost of "doing it right" is still in the $10k range, and that's accounting for me doing everything myself except for wiring, I'd draft in help for that. By contrast I spent maybe $3500 on my rebuild with cams, built head, etc, etc and am very happy with the results. Especially combined with a 3.46 diff.
Yes a modded S54 would still be more capable, but to me, mine sounds cooler and feels more aggressive than any S54 I've driven. And I've still got more than a few kinks to work out.
He makes another good point about classes. As far as classing goes, any swap pretty much universally puts you in classes where it's very hard for the E36 chassis to compete. Although it's not relevant to me now, this is in my long term plans and was part of my process as well.
@M3AMI
96 BG/Magma Lux
Mods. Lots of Mods.
You can find motors for $3-4k, and the sale of an S52 can subsidize another $2k.
Rear diff's don't do much without an increased redline - and every M5x based motor is capped in that regard.
That's a fun setup, but you're pretty much maxed out at 260whp. Stock S54's put down 275-280, and 300+ with headers+tune or 330+ with cams etc, so the additional cost also nets you substantial gains. But I do understand the need to keep the S52. Personally speaking, I think it's a much better engine in FI form than it is NA. Hence my opinion is that when looking at the big picture it's best left mostly stock.
'99 Estoril Blue + Dove Grey ///M3 coupe
'04 Jet Black + Cinnamon ///M3 coupe
Yes, exactly. $4000 buys you the motor. That's just the start.
Several people who've done the swap have told me $10,000 as cost for the complete swap.
Even getting $2000 for the S52 that leaves an $8000 difference. Double the $4000 you threw out there.
At this point where $8-10,000 buys another entire M3, that's hard money to swallow.
If my S52 blew up I may consider it but I'd be far more likely to drop in an LS3 for the same cost....
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
as mentioned earlier, i walked from this car ..some1 beat me to it....... But the thread turned out to be very informative...
Doc,..LS3 huh?....
that being said, I saw this yesterday, not for sale , but man, imagine a NA engine making over 600 hp.......at a DE........and never tell any1 whats under the hood.....lol...altho your exhaust sounds may cause some to inquire....btw, I dont enjoy this host...ever...actually the owner of car seems to think hes a bit of a twerp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0iHA0K0Uv0
Last edited by jrkoupe; 01-16-2017 at 02:52 PM.
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