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Thread: Another Crazy E36 M3 S54 Swap AKA My Realistic Dream Swap

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    97 E36M3 S54

    Cool E36 M3 S54 Swap AKA My Realistic Dream Swap

    So I've been dreaming of putting an S54 into an E36 for over 10 years. I finally have the chance to do it and can barely contain my excitement My first car was a 96 328is manual in arctic silver I had for 7 years, I did everything to that car, then I upgraded to a 05 E46 M3 ZCP and fell in love with that engine, I sold it and regret it but now I can build something even greater than it was (IMO). I always missed the handling feel of the E36. I also had a good friend who shared the same passion for this swap as me that recently passed away, this build is dedicated to him (Stone Whitener).

    My goals for this project:
    • To have a stock looking E36 M3 but with an S54 installed as close to factory quality as feasible.
    • I'd really like to accomplish fitting and getting the E46 M3 gauge cluster fully working. I've only see a couple guys get it to physically fit, and 1 has gotten the speedometer to work correctly. This will likely require swapping to the E46 M3 MK60 ABS system since the gauge cluster receives the vehicle speed via the K-bus from the MK60 ABS unit.
    • I like the idea of possibly having an exhaust cutout so that I can have stock quiet when I want, but race loud at the push of a button but we'll see...
    • Reinforce RTAB pockets and front subframe, possibly refresh the suspension.


    Action Items:
    • 1. Refresh Engine

      -Clean engine
      -WPC Rod Bearings
      -All new gaskets and seals
      -Remove rust on block, repaint it
      -Valve Adjustment
      -Vanos bolts, seals
      -Cryo exhaust hub (maybe not if it looks good?)
      -Weld oil pump nut!
      -N54 studs
      -CPV viton o-ring
      -EGR Blockoff Plate (deleting SAP and post-cat O2's)
      -Replace upper timing chain guide
      -Euro Headers
      -Delete EGT
    • 2. Reinforce Chassis

      -Trailing Arm Pocket Plates
      -Front subframe plates
      -Possibly new subframe and diff bushings (OEM)
      -X-Brace
    • 3. Remove S52, Prep Vehicle and Trans

      -Clean trans
      -Install new TOB, fork, slave cylinder, etc.
      -Convert to manual pedals, install all lines
      -Install DBW pedal
      -Install DME, body side harness and relays
      -Install Fuel pump and regulator
      -DME flash to disable EWS, postcat O2's, SAP
      -Alpha N Tune
    • 4. Install Engine

      -Complete installing wire harnesses
      -Setrab oil cooler and lines
    • 5. Exhaust Work

      -Euro Headers
      -E46 M3 section 1 and 2
      -Custom catback, possibly electric exhaust cutout(s)
      -200 cell race cats welded into section 1



    I purchased a 97 auto E36 M3 6 months ago and have been slowly chipping away at restoring it, it looks pretty good and drives perfect.




    I picked up a S54 motor from an 06 manual vert, 126k miles with all accessories, DME, harness, 6spd 420G trans, fuel pump, FPR, section 1 and 2 from forum member Asmod3us, great guy to deal with btw!


    Got everything home in the garage


    Just look at those ITB's!!!


    Mounted on the stand, started to disassemble a bit...
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 03-03-2017 at 12:10 AM.

  2. #2
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    I'm in! Looks like a clean drop out.

    Maybe you can fab or consult with those know it all guys on getting a signal converter for the speedometer. I bet it ends up being easier than it may seem.

  3. #3
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    95 M3 & Legacy Manwagon
    Let me know if I can help, sounds like you and I have the same goal! I've had about a year and a half on my full OEM integrated setup, and it works as if it's an E46. (if you haven't seen it, my build thread is linked in my sig)

    I have the (S54 Z3M) speedo working correctly and accurately. It requires the Mk60 (or a conditioned speed signal) sent to the DME but not over K-line. The DME then feeds the information to the speedo via the CAN bus, which if you don't completely wire in (including steering angle sensor) means you will need to terminate the missing ends with a resistor (don't remember the resistance off hand).

    E46 M3 cluster works the same as the S54 Z3M cluster, but with the giant PITA of it doesn't fit without lots of surgery to the dash and the need to re do all the wiring connectors (2-plug vs E36 style 3 plug). I highly highly recommend using either the S54 cluster or a CAN interpreter board for the US or Euro (yay oil temp!) E36 cluster.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  4. #4
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmerman535i View Post
    Let me know if I can help, sounds like you and I have the same goal! I've had about a year and a half on my full OEM integrated setup, and it works as if it's an E46. (if you haven't seen it, my build thread is linked in my sig)

    I have the (S54 Z3M) speedo working correctly and accurately. It requires the Mk60 (or a conditioned speed signal) sent to the DME but not over K-line. The DME then feeds the information to the speedo via the CAN bus, which if you don't completely wire in (including steering angle sensor) means you will need to terminate the missing ends with a resistor (don't remember the resistance off hand).

    E46 M3 cluster works the same as the S54 Z3M cluster, but with the giant PITA of it doesn't fit without lots of surgery to the dash and the need to re do all the wiring connectors (2-plug vs E36 style 3 plug). I highly highly recommend using either the S54 cluster or a CAN interpreter board for the US or Euro (yay oil temp!) E36 cluster.
    Smart guy here. My advice...due to rarity/cost of Z3M cluster and the size of E46. The euro cluster with Gary's converter would be best. I STILL haven't sync'd my mileage to the new CAN cluster. If you get the E36 cluster with lower miles than yours, all you need to do is swap code plugs. That alone makes it worth it then add the oil temp, cost and availability! Good luck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmerman535i View Post
    E46 M3 cluster works the same as the S54 Z3M cluster, but with the giant PITA of it doesn't fit without lots of surgery to the dash and the need to re do all the wiring connectors (2-plug vs E36 style 3 plug). I highly highly recommend using either the S54 cluster or a CAN interpreter board for the US or Euro (yay oil temp!) E36 cluster.
    We started looking into the E46 cluster and found some other snags. The Z3 CAN clusters are more like an E36 cluster and don't require the K bus for so many things. It appears the E46 clusters rely on the K bus for things high beam/turn indicators and I'm guessing the mileage tamper dot would be lit unless the matching LCM was installed.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    97 E36M3 S54
    Progress has been a little slow, lately all I've been doing is 1. tearing down the engine to assess its condition and 2. creating a parts list of every little part I'll need, the list is quite comprehensive and when I'm done I'd like to share it so others can plan accordingly...

    I still have yet to pull the oil pan due to the fact that the engine seems so top-heavy on the engine stand I'm afraid to rotate it over, at least without a helper. Is it possible to grab the 2 cylinder head allen plugs on the rear of it?

    Pulled the VCG, a bit of baked on oil but it wipes right off with a rag.


    Inspected the exhaust hub, flanges look pretty good what do you guys think?
    Upper:

    Lower:


    Oil on upper timing cover, assuming from the vanos seal.


    This engine is from a northern car, at first appearance when I received it the block looked like it had a few small rust spots, but once I put a wire brush up to it I found all kinds of loose areas, eek. Part of me wishes I was doing a full rebuild so I could just have the block blasted/tanked but that's far beyond the scope of my plans... SO that means lots of grunt work with wire brush tools, ugh.


    Picked up a Setrab oil cooler from a forum member. I plan on making my own AN lines and using the oil filter housing adapter plate. They will all be black to look as OEM and least flashy as possible :p


    Euro headers on the way


    And an early gen aluminum X-brace, IMO kinda a kickback to the E46 M3 X-brace!


    I also just put in my main order of engine hardware and gaskets, so that should be here in a week or so.
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 03-03-2017 at 12:11 AM.

  7. #7
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    What car did that brace come out of originally? Does in bolt up to e36 without modifications?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by patb1 View Post
    What car did that brace come out of originally? Does in bolt up to e36 without modifications?
    From what I've read it's an 1994 convertible x-brace. I haven't had a chance to fit it up yet but may this weekend, will report back.
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 01-16-2017 at 02:15 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    We started looking into the E46 cluster and found some other snags. The Z3 CAN clusters are more like an E36 cluster and don't require the K bus for so many things. It appears the E46 clusters rely on the K bus for things high beam/turn indicators and I'm guessing the mileage tamper dot would be lit unless the matching LCM was installed.
    I've spent more time looking at this and am considering building an alternative the the CAN board that would make an E46 cluster swap easy.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    That x brace looks more of e46 brace than e36. Never seen e36 with that kind of brace, typically e36's have different one.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    I've spent more time looking at this and am considering building an alternative the the CAN board that would make an E46 cluster swap easy.
    do tell... im interested.. my swap, mechanically, doesnt intimidate me... but all this wiring and wire harnesses i just cant do.. i need to have people build me something that would be 90% plug N play... so anything people can do.. is greatly appreciated
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    do tell... im interested.. my swap, mechanically, doesnt intimidate me... but all this wiring and wire harnesses i just cant do.. i need to have people build me something that would be 90% plug N play... so anything people can do.. is greatly appreciated
    I won't hijack this thread anymore, but I just ordered an E46 M3 cluster and am documenting the signals that would need to be converted to/from the k-bus. I'll also be working on resetting the clusters VIN & mileage and determining if the tamper dot will come on if the LCM is not present. If it does I can likely emulate certain LCM messages. Once I get the cluster and figure out a few things I'll start a thread.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  13. #13
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    Currently waiting on WPC rod bearings to really proceed further on the engine so I've been playing with other things in the meantime. Bearings ETA is late next week...

    I cleaned all the grime off of the X-brace "pan", it was ridiculously dirty, then I gave it a new paintjob . I really like that it adds an official center jacking location for the subframe. It also looks like there may be a rubber or plastic piece that fits into that spot if anyone knows it?


    Also fitted it up to the vehicle, it fits GREAT and looks awesome. Worth noting: there's a nice oil drain cutout for the S52 that won't work once I swap the S54 in, so I'll simply cut a nice hole by the S54 drain plug. Plz ignore the BP deepwater horizon oil spill which seems to be the underside of my M3, I plan on cleaning everything down there during swap time. Also notice the new E46 330I ZHP rack I swapped in, really tightened up the steering feel.


    Euro S54 headers came in from my seller in Athens Greece lol. I read that I need to have a bung welded in for the EGT, does anyone know the ideal position? Also, is it really necessary to have the EGT in the first place?
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 01-22-2017 at 08:30 PM.

  14. #14
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    That cleaned up damn nice.

    Whatd those greek headers run you haha? Shouldn't be to hard to have a bung added on.

  15. #15
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    that under pan you have...looks very close to the E46 pan.. saw a few of them on E46 M3's over on M3forum.net and yes there is a plastic/rubber round jacking point that could be missing off yours

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/attac...8&d=1484338091
    Last edited by TH3 Shifty; 01-25-2017 at 03:02 AM.
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  16. #16
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    Don't need the EGT, just have it coded out.
    Dave
    '18 RAM 2500 Laramie Cummins
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    ///'95 Avus M3 S54B32 Race car -- 2022 ProAutoSports PS1 Champion
    ///'72 Chamonix 2002 (Restoration project)

  17. #17
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    So I spent 4 more hours tonight scraping rust.... This is such a PITA, and I totally wasn't planning on doing this at all for the swap but my OCD is getting to me and the further I go the deeper the rabbit hole is. I have a total of 8 hours into one side of the block and it's only looking like it's 2/3 done... I'll be using por15 gloss which should keep the rust at bay for another 10yrs or more, but seriously boring terrible dirty work to do, can't wait to get to the actual fun stuff like bearings, gaskets etc.


    Speaking of gaskets, all of my gaskets, seals and other misc parts for the engine reseal are here (I keep wanting to call it a rebuild but I'm not pulling the head, or cylinders so meh). I just got notification that the WPC rod bearings and bolts from the GB are in the mail too.

    Some parts worth noting: upper chain guide, vanos oil filter, n54 studs, EGR blockoff
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 01-27-2017 at 12:24 AM.

  18. #18
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    Nice parts pile haha

    I got the cross brace on, you'll need to cut off or press down that half circle indent under the oil pan. It hits the braided oil line under there. You can check my thread for the photos.

  19. #19
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    Just got the new WPC treated rod bearings installed and then welded the OPN. I discovered that it's possible to remove the oil pump with its sprocket still attached from the block by relaxing the slack in the chain. It just BARELY gets passed the alignment dowels buts it's do-able. This is awesome because then I don't have to weld right near/in the engine and makes future removal easier.













    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 03-03-2017 at 12:18 AM.

  20. #20
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    Subbed, I cant wait to see the finished product, keep posting pics and updates! What harness are you going to use?

    Also definitely save yourself the headache and redo the vanos while its out of the car, and knock out a valve adjustment if you havent already.


  21. #21
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    Thank you for documenting this build. I'm still gathering parts up to do a '97 Z3 M52 swap in my Lemons Ti race car. When that motor get tired I'd like to do a S54 swap. These S54 are getting very reasonable in price.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by alwaysbored786 View Post
    Subbed, I cant wait to see the finished product, keep posting pics and updates! What harness are you going to use?

    Also definitely save yourself the headache and redo the vanos while its out of the car, and knock out a valve adjustment if you havent already.
    I just got in my Z3M S54 harness to relocate ECU to E36 location. Gpeterson and I are developing the E46 M3 gauge cluster to work on E36, so whatever comes of that + Andrew on R3V will be the adapter harness.

    This car will be my DD so it must have all the amenities of OEM.

    More pics and updates coming this weekend, its a good one
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 02-25-2017 at 01:05 AM.

  23. #23
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    Part outs, parts, cars, etc: Asmod3us's FS Threads
    Lots of parts on ebay: eBay Auctions

  24. #24
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    So I've finally closed out the de-rusting/corrosion of this block. My OCD got the best of me and well let's just say it's probably better than new..

    Block went from this


    To this


    To this


    To this! (upside down for some reason?)


    To final repainted with POR15 product!


    I've unintentionally become a bit of a rust and paint removal expert. If you ever decide to take on such a task do yourself a favor and go out and buy an air needle scaler, worth every penny. Here's a video of me using it:

    Yup, did that for a few days and it was stripped, great.

    Then I proceeded to do some real work on the engine and removed the front crank seal and installed a new one.
    How to remove a crank seal like a boss (use a pry bar and a wood block against the channel locks and timing cover to slowly pull it out, alternating each side)


    BUT then I noticed the new one had a decent sized gap towards the bottom of the engine. Went in just fine, turns out it's defective, so I removed that one and a new one is in the mail...


    Reinstalled the oil pan


    Some other cool parts showed up
    Euro radiator cover, euro trans brace, new M VC sticker, ZHP 6spd shifter, super expensive "one time use" crank bolts, MZ3 wiring harness



    That's it for now, next I'll be addressing the vanos unit, valve adjustment and finish putting all the accessories on the engine. After that I'll be installing RTAB pocket reinforcements, new susp bushings all around etc.

    Also, in un-related but awesome news we traded in our other car and picked up this '12 X5 fully loaded for a steal. Wife loves it . Here they are together.
    Last edited by M52 POWER!; 03-03-2017 at 12:24 AM.

  25. #25
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    Haha pita crank bolts - great updates that block looks real good. Are you doing the front subframe reinforcement too? I did and I'm happy about it hsha. The motor definitely "torques" around in there even with E9X mounts.

    And that crank seal gave me shit too. I ruined the BMW one in 2 minutes without the cone installed. Had to use a duralast one...but worked like a charm haha.

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