Looks like I need to convert from whatever the BMW flare is to a -4 AN. The -4 AN line almost makes it to the BMW hard line. Can I order a custom line from someone?
Here's all the stuff I didn't know I needed. Wiring pigtails and the speedo block off plate.
Trying to get the rear sway bar dialed in with the e46 rear upper control arms/
The 3" driveshaft is very close to the drivers side e-brake line. Also about 1/4" from the sheet metal under the back seat.
Plenty of room near the center support bearing mount.
Got the clutch line all plumbed in. This was easy. Just used Earl's bubble flare to -4 AN fitting then the -4 female to -4 male 90 and the lines were long enough from the release bearing. For some reason my vacuum bleeder is not bleeding the Tilton bearing correctly. I think I am going to try reverse bleeding it next.
Did the same with the rear brake lines since my standard e36 aftermarket stainless lines were too short.
There is no way to route the ABS wire on the e46 upper control arms so this was my solution. Once I remove the gas tank again later for the bigger fuel pumps I will add one or two more wire holders. For now this works fine with a few zip ties.
With a 3” DS you probably need to either lower the SF and Diff or use a custom gas tank. Lowering the SF could screw up the pinion angle. I have found you can lower the engine a little by cutting down mounts. Not sure it would be enough but even a little clearance in the tank saddle area would help.
The diff is lowered just a bit already. There is probably a 1/2" clearance from the driveshaft above the tank now. It is just close to that one e-brake clip. The closeness is on the diff end. The motor being 6 foot away I would have to drop it several inches to make a very small difference, but that would mean the transmission mount would have to lower as well.
The diff is all solid mounted in the subframe. Do you think it will move much?
Ideally I would get another subframe and cut out the bottom to give the diff the proper angle which would make all the clearance needed. The Rally Road diff bracket makes the diff nose high toward the tank. Basically the bracket doesn't really put the diff in the right spot.
Last edited by 3literheater; 11-11-2018 at 05:45 PM.
Finally got it going last night and driving. Already put 140 miles on it. Just trying to shake it down and make sure I did everything right.
There are some vibrations at 2500 rpm in 6th gear at 85mph. I am thinking the driveline shop did a crappy job on the welding of the driveshaft. They have told me they will make it right if anything is wrong. The driveline has .013" of tube runout on the billet Sonnax yoke side and .018" runout on the differential yoke side that I made. Does anyone have any input? I am pretty sure the runout should be lower than .010" but some websites claim .020" is okay. Like here: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp...iveshaft-tech/
The vibrations could also be from the poly bushings and stuff. Hard to tell since I changed so much.
I will try and upload all the latest pictures of everything complete.
And on a review note. This transmission shifts nicer than any BMW shifter I have driven. There's a lot of slop in the BMW linkage even with a DSSR and nice short shift kit.
This clutch has very nice engagement and is not hard to disengage. Pedal feel is like stock.
Last edited by 3literheater; 11-30-2018 at 02:26 AM.
I’m curious how this swap has been treating you. Any updates?
I have it in my 1100whp e36, i never take my foot off the gas when shifting it in a race, t56 magnum and 210 diff are hands down the best things you can do to a high power bmw.
I think that after getting so used to your skateboard, you should wear a diaper when you get the ride in the 1100 rwhp car.
I need to catch back up on everyones builds, Damn.
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