Last edited by 3literheater; 04-26-2017 at 01:44 AM.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Thank you! Just ordered 2 packs!
I don't have pictures yet, but I have the e46 rear upper cast aluminum control arms as well. I sand blasted them clean and am sanding off the casting flash just because it does look a little better. I think I may bead blast them again and not get too carried away, but I am also thinking of having them powder coated with everything else.
I ordered 4 of these bolts as well PN: 33326760340
Last edited by 3literheater; 04-26-2017 at 10:51 PM.
You are going to have to get crafty with the sway bar attach brackets and figure out a method to attach the ABS sensor wiring with those control arms.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
To me it looks like the factory e46 swaybar brackets will work just fine. Did you have those with your control arms? They look like they could be maybe in a slightly different position though.
Probably just drill a few holes to use the e36 ABS wiring holders too.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 10:59 PM.
lots of good info here.. if this works out well and can hold the jam this might convince me to go t56 mag versus th400.
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Got the transmission out on Friday and tried to mount the bell housing on today. I ended up bending one of the transmission dowels. Quick Time used a much thicker motor plate so its hard to mount the bell with only a few MM of dowel sticking out.
I may have to make a bit of room in the transmission tunnel as well.
Does anyone know a BMW part number to some longer dowels?
Here is the one I have currently. It's 14.5 mm x 11 mm.
11117524470
It would be nice to find one that is maybe 3 mm longer?
Made some progress this weekend.
Everything seems to line up okay. No trimming off any of the bosses on the side of the transmission. And the shifter hole and transmission shifter line up near perfect. Doesn't look like I will have to trim the sheet metal at all. Some spots it's pretty tight in the transmission tunnel. I may make some more room with a BFH. First though I need to remove all the stock sound deadening stuff to see the clearances better. It will also give me a reason to put the gold film all over the transmission tunnel haha.
Here you can see I made a few brackets that bolt into the stock locations. I did buy a CX Racing transmission mount for their LS conversions, but its like a mile off so that thing is going back. I need some 1" or 1 1/4" tubing and some triangle gussets to be burnt out. Looks like I dont even need to bend the tube. Just an 11" straight section should do. I plan to work on that more tomorrow after I cut out all the sound foam stuff.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 11:26 PM.
Looks good. Thanks for posting. This is an expensive undertaking but I might do it after I break another ZF320.
Whats the weight difference on the control arms?
95 M3, 5.3 LS, PTE 7675CEA, TH400/Gear Vendors OD
10.4@136 Pump gas at 3530lbs.
Build thread
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...LS-Turbo-build
Maybe 3 lbs. Not worth it lol.
Here is the completed transmission mount and transmission position.
Looks like a 3.5" driveshaft could work.
Motor position. I marked where it was with the stock trans in there and a few other measurements were taken in various places as well.
Shifter position.
Clearance around the shifter.
Transmission mount clearance to transmission.
Close ups of the transmission mount completed.
Ready for powder coat!
I am thinking of getting a short shifter for this thing called a White Lightning. Also the short shifter has a smaller base so it would give even more clearance for the transmission in the body hole. http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8425...gnum-t-56.html
Not too sure about the quality of the unit, but some reviews are good. I don't know about american muscle stuff.
I ordered this shifter stick: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-6-5-Sh...%257Ciid%253A1
Not sure what knob I want to run yet??? I have the UUC one with the leather wrap, but its all loose and coming off because UUC makes junk.
Hopefully stuff starts coming back from powder and plating here soon as well.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 11:19 PM.
Brace turned out really nice!!
I would get a taller shifter that is bent back a little bit to get some more leverage. The magnum has internal hard stops for the shift detents so you cant shift it too hard. A longer stick gives you some more leverage to really bang the gears.
Thanks!
I'm pretty lanky so if I get a bent back lever I think it might feel unnatural. Luckily the shifter sticks are cheap to buy or easy to make, so I wont have a problem if I want to change it out. Perry do you have an opinion on the White Lightning? I called MGW today and they do not make an adjustable short shifter for the Magnum.
Some good news today. The powdercoater messed up on my upper control arms. They have a little blotchy spots in the paint. Not really a big deal for something under the car. So he agreed to spray the transmission support brace for free because the control arms came out funky.
Also the plater decided not to charge me for the rears hubs so another FREEBIE!!
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 11:04 PM.
I would try the stock one first. That part of the shifter is basically just a ball and socket so unless you want more spring force to center the shifter I don't think it will really have any benefit. I'm 6'4" and I thought having the shifter back toward me really helped me hit gears since I have the seat all the way back.
Here is the first shifter I had. It was bent back to far and not heavy enough
i replaced it with this one which was taller and heavier and not bent back quite as much. This one was just awesome to drive
Everything is back from powder coating and assembled, so I can put the Magnum in there for good after I set up the throw out bearing.
Here is the shifter stick I bought. It looks like it will work okay, but I needed to modify it to work. Had to open up the holes to accept 3/8 bolts and had to machine it a little thinner on one side. I would not recommend this stick for someone who cannot modify it.
I have my LSD unit back from being rebuilt. I also ordered all new bearings for it. I am going to try and put it together here soon. That is what's holding up the rear suspension going back in now.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 11:02 PM.
I need to fix all the damn pictures and I have been super busy at work.
I finally got the DSS 1000hp axles after 6 weeks. They look pretty lame in my opinion. Still rusty and dirty and the new inner CV is all beat up.
The outer housings dont look tempered and shotpeened to me. What do you guys think?:
The Rear Axle Bar and Inner CV upgrade for the E36 M3 is now available. We have developed a set of axle bars, inner CV and outer CV internal upgrade, using our 36 spline high grade aircraft quality bars (stock axle bars are 28 spline) and a custom chromoly CV cage and race set makes these axles practically indestructible. Our chromoly 108mm inner CV is a direct replacement for the stock unit, and features full aerospace grade internals. The factory M3 outer CV housing is made from a very strong material, and we upgrade the internals to an aerospace grade set also.
You must send in your factory OEM axles so we can assemble this set. We will temper and shotpeen the outer housings, install factory style metal covers on the outer CV (double o-ring sealed), install our new cage/race internals along with our 36 spline bars and 108mm inner CV. Rated to 1000HP with a 1-year warranty.
Also I have been messing with building the rear diff myself. Trying to get the pinion depth and backlash set is a bitch on the 210mm diff. I would like to read the BMW TIS on this to get all the specs on it. Not sure where to obtain that.
Once the diff is done I can start reassembly finally.
Last edited by 3literheater; 08-03-2017 at 12:01 AM.
Here's mine:
I ordered "new" 2001 E46 Automatic cores from BMW, and had them shipped to DSS. (Arriving the end of March) I received the above the end of May.
One of the splined shafts wouldn't fit into the hub smoothly, so I had to put the whole driveshaft in the deep freeze. Even then, it was a struggle to get it seated....and I'd hate to have to change a wheel bearing on that side. I think the "New" core provided by BMW was the issue, but there was clearly no "processing" done on the part by DSS.
This is what an OEM inner looks like disassembled:
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 08-03-2017 at 05:03 AM.
I didn't even think about ordering new axles. Seems like a better idea in theory. Yours look used as well.
I'll just sandblast them clean and hope for the best. How bad do you think my outer CV is worn VS a new one?
Here's a small update:
Tried assembling the diff with the 3.72 shim and this is my pattern. I need to back off a bit. The pattern is showing way too deep. I read somewhere that you should make adjustments in the range of .003" until you get close with the pattern? Any advice?
The current pattern with the 3.72mm shim.
Here is the tool I made for holding the pinion.
Here is the first set of pinion shims. I have since ordered a thinner set to try and play with the pattern.
Here is the limited slip that DiffsOnline rebuilt. The only thing you can see that is different is the ramp angles.
I also got a new set of wheels to handle the big brake kit because my knock off AC 5-spokes do not have any caliper clearance.
Some Pilot Super Sport rubber I got on sale.
My new DieselGate daily. Turned my old one in for a smoking deal and got this one for pennies. Upgraded to the SEL wagon, tinted windows, lowered on H&R sports, with wheel spacers.
I think I missed this a while ago. Here is the before and after transmission tunnel clearance with a BFH.
Drivers side before:
Drivers side after:
Passenger side before:
Passenger side after:
You can see it did't need much if any really because the poly engine and trans mounts are so stiff. I couldn't beat my car with a hammer so I had my buddy do it just a bit so there wouldn't be any vibrations or anything.
Here are the big brakes. Went with a kit from Lee Massive. I liked the fact I could customize it and also still have a factory E-brake. These are the 6 piston Aero6 fronts and 4 piston Superlite 4R rears. Both plated in nickle.
I am not sure why, but I want 14" rear rotors so Lee gave me a drawing to step up the rears to the larger rotor. His drawing was slightly off but changed a few things and they worked.
If you guys need the bearing part numbers for the 210mm diff let me know. I have them all. I think it was $150 for all the brand new bearings.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-16-2017 at 02:11 AM.
I like the trans conversion. Very nice work!
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