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Thread: T56 Magnum Conversion

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeE36 View Post
    Lots of Formula Drift guys seem to use T101A's successfully. I'm not sure if they're beefed up or not. Where did you see a new GSR for $9800? A buddy of mine just bought a brand new one for $5200 I think?

    Mike
    Yeah, some people use ZF320s with 800 ft lbs successfully too, but you wouldn't spend thousands on one...

    Price is straight from GForce. A refurb from them is 7500. The cheapest refurb you can get is from RTS for 6500. I even asked GForce if it's a scam, they said RTS is their biggest client for GSRs and they get the highest discount level, they could never sell me one for anywhere near that. So 5200 is a pipe dream. Nothing wrong with a refurb btw, that's what I'm gonna get. It's the current NASCAR box which are returned after every race, many times with very low miles. They xray and test all components and the ones that are to new spec are retained for refurb builds. So it's as good as new, just doesn't cost it.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    So the Chevy one is correct ? Shifter position doesn't change ? Both are universal ?
    That's what they built it for: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-4089

    Quote Originally Posted by wilhit10 View Post
    Make sure you measure the thread alignment...ask me how I know:
    http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...3-how-to-align

    Also, the linkage is going to be a bit off center. From what I remember it's a few inches in 2 directions. Usable, but I had to have a special shifter made so that I could still use my center console.
    Quote Originally Posted by zemaestro View Post
    Dial Indicate!

    Yeah I planned on checking that first, but the directions say to check it as well. So if you can't RTFM then yes you would have problems. I hope it is right on. It should be. Its not hard to hit .001" after welding if you machine it after you weld.


    Some people have asked for flywheel weight.

    I have a crappy scale at home. When I weighed the flywheel it was at 18.5lbs. R3vLimited has it at 18lbs 10.5oz which is nearly 19lbs.


    After machining and lightening I am at 16lbs with my scale. I took maybe .070" off the front and .200" off the back. I think you could easily go another .100" off the back, but I stopped not knowing.

    With the dual clutches, pressure plate and two idler flywheels I am at 36.5lbs on my scale including the machined M20 flywheel.



    Today I was at a customer with a laser. I got what I think may be the correct transmission brackets laser cut and bent up. I just copied the bolt pattern from the factory brace. Only time will tell if I guessed correctly.
    Last edited by 3literheater; 01-11-2017 at 12:41 AM.

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  3. #28
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  4. #29
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    Since I am changing the rear gears I figured this would be a good time to refurbish the LSD.

    Should I go with a rebuilt LSD unit from like Diffs Online? Or go with a Wavetrac or Quaife unit?

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  5. #30
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    Buy the parts and do it yourself. It's easy peazy.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  6. #31
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    Yes that is what i have planned but I am not sure which I should go with.

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  7. #32
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    Finally got some work done on the car. Got it over to my buddy's shop and took out the rear subframe for the 210mm conversion.



    Got it out in about 2 hours.



    Should I fully weld around these?


    Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 10:58 PM.

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  8. #33
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    Get rid of those studs and buy some e90 m3 subframe bolts.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Get rid of those studs and buy some e90 m3 subframe bolts.
    Que?

    Do tell

  10. #35
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    Might be just regular e90 bolts. Not sure if the m3 ones differ. They replace the studs. Easier to service with bolts.

  11. #36
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    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  12. #37
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    Awesome! I'll keep that in mind when I am ready to drop my subframe

  13. #38
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    How is it easier to service? I liked the studs cause it helped with alignment when I reinstalled the subframe.

  14. #39
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    The E36s have a captive nut in the body? The E30s have a splined stud that drops down from under the seat area. Its a PITA to remove when rusted in!!

    IMG_6316.JPG
    Last edited by wazzu70; 04-24-2017 at 06:16 PM.
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  15. #40
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    Yes, captured nut.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    So you use those 4 bolts with those thick washers from McMaster right? Anyone have the part number for those washers?

    I got all of the nasty underbody coating off today where the AKG RTAB reinforcements go. What a pain in the ass that was. Hopefully it will weld nicely tomorrow.

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3literheater View Post

    So you use those 4 bolts with those thick washers from McMaster right? Anyone have the part number for those washers?

    I got all of the nasty underbody coating off today where the AKG RTAB reinforcements go. What a pain in the ass that was. Hopefully it will weld nicely tomorrow.
    Correct
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  18. #43
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    I don't know if it helps anyone but the driveshaft yoke from an 04 GTO is identical to the factory BMW 3 bolt flange for the rubber ring. Could potentially find a direct bolt on driveshaft setup using it.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3literheater View Post
    So you use those 4 bolts with those thick washers from McMaster right? Anyone have the part number for those washers?
    Z9670 They come in packs of five. Get two packs incase you need to shim the subframe.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  20. #45
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    Can someone enlighten me as to how the e90 bolts are upgrades over the stock studs?

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Can someone enlighten me as to how the e90 bolts are upgrades over the stock studs?
    It may be easier to install the rear subframe and 210 diff for some but I also like using the stock ones as a guide when positioning.

    Using bolts gets rid of the hex that sits between the bushing and the body as well.
    Last edited by chikinhed; 04-25-2017 at 10:03 AM.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post

    It may be easier to install the rear subframe and 210 diff for some but I also like using the stock ones as a guide when positioning.

    Using bolts gets rid of the hex that sits between the bushing and the body as well.
    Is there any benefit to getting rid of that hex?

    I personally thought having studs there was really nice opposed to four bolts. I wouldn't replace them with bolts unless I absolutely had to.

  23. #48
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    The hex sits proud from the body. If the RSFB's have been engineered to work with the protruding hex then you will need a spacer between the body and bushing. The Powerflex bushings I have were not engineered at all so I had to make up shims/spacers to work with the studs.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
    I don't know if it helps anyone but the driveshaft yoke from an 04 GTO is identical to the factory BMW 3 bolt flange for the rubber ring. Could potentially find a direct bolt on driveshaft setup using it.
    Good find. That could be very useful to custom DS builders. I would like to find a strong 2 piece. I don't really like the DSS that does away with the guibo and tends to add significant NVH.

  25. #50
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    My driveshaft will be 1350 slip yoke out of the back of the T56 Mag and a 1350 yoke into the BMW diff adapter I made.

    Here is the welded in AKG reinforcements:






    I also got all of the rear suspension parts sand blasted ready for powder coating. Modified the rear brake disc backing plate to accept the 14" rear rotors.







    Whats the part number for the e90 bolts?

    I have the AKG poly rear bushings and I am thinking or just spacing the top of the subframe down. Maybe using the factory bottom washers. The reason is because AKG machines the bushings to match the shape of the washers. Opinions?
    Last edited by 3literheater; 09-14-2017 at 10:54 PM.

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

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