M62TUB44 Swap or not???

[KVF]

Update...

Thanks for the on board diagnostics information. For some reason the only test mine actually runs is the first test, but I'll look into that more later...

With about 150 miles on the new ICV & pwr steering pump the idle holds at about 550 which is better.

The miss/lumpiness is still present so I'm sure I still have a hidden issue.

Related or unrelated, the idle rises to a perfect 600 when I turn the lights on... oO


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[KVF]

I am committed to bringing this issue and post to completion.

Last night I was finally able to get the stomp test to work and was able to repeat it again after driving into work. Only one code presents and it's 1213 - LAMDA CONTROL 2. Sadly it appears there's 8 million different reasons this code may be thrown, but at least it's a start.

Most people who've had this code report getting the code without any other symptoms. My car clearly has a lumpy idle (very similar to cam'd 70's muscle car) and most recently I've noticed that it sometimes feels as if it goes thru power surges/losses: Pedal in same position cruising and suddenly car feels like a switch was hit and it bumps down in power or vice versa (bumps up).

Any thoughts or info is most appreciated. FYI - Plugs, Coils, Compression, Cam position sensor, ICV, and air leaks have all checked out fine so far... Also new voltage regulator was installed and alternator passed bench test afterward with flying colors.


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[KVF]

I'm starting to get nervous that this is somehow a timing issue... Installed new fuel filter and fpr and verified pressure. Problem remains. Passenger side O2 sensor up next.


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[moroza]

Timing would not cause sporadic dips in power. O2 sensor issues might.

[KVF]

Thanks for reply! Power dips are a bad explanation on my parts. The issue that remains is a constant lumpy idle, which appears to be a consistent misfire without misfire code. That's why I'm thinking injectors or timing, but I mind as well check O2 first.

It's very hard to explain but the car almost feels fine at speed and when accelerating, but there's a slight vibration that's prominent at about 1500 rpm and again at about 3200 rpm. If you leave it in gear to decelerate (engine braking). It feels pretty smooth until you get down to 3200 rpm and then there's a rhythmic lump, lump, lump, lump as the rpms drop and it settles into its 69 charger idle, gently rocking side to side.

Just for info, may I ask how any of you set cam timing? Did you use mechanical tensioning tool, or did you use the newly installed hydraulic tensioner?


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[moroza]

Well, that's interesting. When the engine is warmed up and decelerating in gear (above 1k RPM, with AC off, and if Mercury is in retrograde as it usually is), fuel is cut completely and the engine becomes nothing but a purely mechanical wheel-driven air pump, so all the sensors and the entire fuel system are out of the picture... unless the injectors are leaking... and I don't see how even the most maladjusted cam timing would cause any lumpiness in that scenario.

I set cam timing with my eyeballs and a bunch of wrenches to turn the cams. Took a long time and it was my first timing job of any kind (turns out 1-bank belts with mechanical tensioners are a lot easier than 2-bank chains). Verified that all was square with a new tensioner in and the valvecovers off. Rotated by hand a bunch of times to confirm. That was some 60k miles ago.

[KVF]

Not sure how I missed this, but thank you very much! I threw my back out so troubleshooting has been delayed a bit.

I’m guessing my timing can’t be that out of whack, but what made me nervous is that I set timing (per instructions) with the new “dry” tensioner. As a result, even though the engine turned over nicely by hand, there was a certain spot in the rotation where the chain would fully compress the tensioner and allow the tensioner guide to essentially slap the side of the case. This doesn’t happen now that tensioner is oil filled, but it makes me wonder...

In any event, you mentioned leaking injector and that’s next on my list to check. I’ve noticed that the car takes more cranks than it should to fire up and I suspect that it may be related to injector leak down. The fuel filters and FPR are brand new.


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[KVF]

So I’m diagnosing again and the screwdriver to ear test confirms all injectors are at least firing at idle...

However, a friend asked why my engine was whistling, to which I replied, what whistling, and my daughter says, the engine whistling... I guess it’s at a pitch that I don’t hear well.

In any event, I pull the dipstick and then hear a loud sucking noise from the rear intake cover. Placing a finger over the tube reveals a slight suction. Could this be the dreaded failed diaphragm causing my issues??? I’m just going to replace it... What’s another 50 bucks at this point.


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[KVF]

Finally my saga comes to an end. Rather than install a new rear intake cover I re-timed the engine because I knew the procedure I followed was wrong. Total airhead user error on my behalf. I could only slide a timing block on one of the four cams while the motor was locked at tdc.

After kicking myself and readjusting everything correctly, the lumpy idle is gone and power is up! Let the hunt for a lsd begin.

Thanks for all the help guys!!


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