This thread revival gave me a bit of motivation. Imma go spend some money with your cousin so we can make it interesting if you bring this thing down south. We'll see which Capelo can build faster E36's lol.
Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
Penn State University '08...better than your school since 1855
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Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
Penn State University '08...better than your school since 1855
Sigma Lambda Beta International Fraternity Incorporated
UTI Class of '10, BMW "STEPchild"
Acurazine.com Mod Squad
Yeah,
I wish my car were still a 5k car... Now its a 11K car invested. Which I couldn't sell for 6.
I wonder what I could have gotten with a 15,000 down payment
, Perhaps
And I hate seeing turbo thread builds that break so quickly. But an 88MM is quite hefty
And what are you thinking you spiked too? Can you check peak boost level?
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-03-2018 at 06:09 PM.
No Ragrets lol
I was only in a rush to turn it up so I could seal the deal on a FBO E85 335i run that I had lined up. To be honest I couldve destroyed that car on wastegate 15psi. I was also gearing up to run an e85 porsche locally but the car broke a few weeks later since I just couldn't turn it back down lol.
The boost would come on hard and get to about 19/20 for a second maybe for 2-300rpm of range and taper down to about 17/18 depending on weather. Was getting pretty cold here at the time too. I disconnected the battery and never thought to check peak but I bet its a little higher since I was still dialing it in.
Good news but no progress yet. I found the color coding dots on my block indicating which main bearing sizes the engine originally had for each main. I ordered a generic OE set from worldpac but apparently the part number points to a white color code. Even though they're an OE part number they are still off and not true 60mm bearings. My block is showing 4 Green Bearing sets and 3 Yellow (One of which is thrust for #6). Now I have to figure out the most cost effective way to get a mismatch or just buy both sets.
You can see colored dots right below the main studs. It's pretty awesome they survived 21 yrs of use.
Rods should be easier at least
Last edited by SCapelo; 01-03-2018 at 08:31 PM.
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
Yeah sucks that happened to you. I have spare motor lying in my garage now just as a precaution not because I don't think they can handle it but because I'm new to this...
I had the same problem when it was getting cold here in Virginia. I think it was maybe 20 degrees or so (its 1 degree now) and I typically had the car set on 10 PSI but under WOT would hit 12.5 or so. With the weather drop, and the car set on same level was hitting 16-16.5 easily. Which is a bit concerning on base tune, ha.
But anyway, I like the build and seems that your gonna be pretty happy once your all said and done.
All in all though I think a lot of us here feel that we have made or some cases built our "dream within means" car. Which is awesome.
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-03-2018 at 08:30 PM.
WOW a 6.5psi increase would be big time damage for my car lol I'm glad it wasn't that bad!
I have a spare running s52 also but I'd like to save it for an e30 some day
This was a long time goal of mine and it was worth every bit of effort. Just gotta make sure this ho starts up after all this in-depth bottom end work that I have no business doing lol
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
Yeah, I think if I was running an 88MM terb accelerating 40+ in third gear with a 6.5 PSI creep I'd have many problems
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
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It’s compressor impeller inducer (small end that sees the air first) in millimeters and turbine impeller inducer (big end that sees the air first on its way out) in millimeters. That is Precision Turbo nomenclature — the other turbo makers don’t always refer to their turbos this way even though it makes the most sense.
block mains color dots.jpg
Are these the dots?
These dots represent the measurements based on the block in relation to the original crankshaft, correct?
If one were using a different crank, these colors would have little or no "bearing" on the situation?
Yes I believe so. In this case I am using original s52 block and crank with no line-honing. Just a bearing replacement and plasti-gauge for the check. The ARP main stud paperwork says to be weary of main cap distortion due to the higher clamping but I'm hoping it won't be an issue.
I don't go by precision terms on this turba cause it's way cooler to tell people Gee Tee Fourtyyyyyyy :0
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
Got some more work done with the correct yellow main bearings. My crank shaft had yellow markings and the BMW TIS indicated to go by those specifically.
Plastigauged all of the mains and all were within .035 to .040 - all within spec. Got the ARP main studs on there torqued to spec and all is well. Crank spins nicely now.
Just got my ring filer today and plan to get the piston rings gapped and the entire rotating assembly together this weekend. Not much holding me back from getting it all done besides time at this point. Also figured now's a good time to clean and paint all the engine parts. And a pic of my car from this past summer really hit me in the feels
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97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
Progress. Gonna make all the power soon.
Thanks for the pointers. Been bothering Zack for a few weeks about this. Now after getting this far the whole build doesn't seem all that difficult to do. I mean I hope this biatch doesn't blow up 3 miles in but at least I'd be a little quicker on the progress next go around lol
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
Recheck that those mains, should be measured in inches. or at least convert it to inches.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
I went by this here? Says mm
Also help from this thread https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...=305587&page=2
Last edited by SCapelo; 01-19-2018 at 04:24 PM.
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
JE suggested I think 0.017 and 0.018 for ring gaps for me. I went with 0.019 and 0.022 for safety. Doesn't hurt to have a little more ring gap IMO.
I went with the sheet they supplied; Moderate turbo/nitrous.
It gave me 0.017 and 0.018 , and choose to go with 0.019 and 0.022 for safety. Happy with the results. Was my first ever engine build, and its held up great so far.
- - - Updated - - -
Looks like its saying 0.017 and 0.019 for you. I would gap them a bit wider, if I were you.
awesome progress, boost away worry free... did you use a stock replacement main bearings and caps instead of the ARP brand bearing stuff? this is nice, so instead of bothering them AND butters, does this mean I get to bother you when I slap this m52 block together this summer with an s52 crank? LOL. im not planning on really sending my stock s52 that hard right away anyways.
Last edited by JPE36M3; 01-20-2018 at 01:10 AM.
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