Fiberfast build thread.

[FiberFast]

I am wondering if maybe I installed the gear selector backwards. Would that cause a problem?
Also I know I forgot to install shift linkage bushings and I have ordered some.
I will get a look at that shift linkage tomorrow.

[FiberFast]

Shift Linkage is installed with the link on the drivers side of the transmission and the clips on the passenger side.
I am at my wits end with this clutch.
The master cylinder had a compression fitting so I pulled the guts from the new unit and used them to "Rebuild" the old one as the connector was different.
I put the old slave in and that helped a little. Right now I am thinking 1. Throughout bearing backwards (Probably not) 2. Retention clip/spring malfunction 3.Slave rod not long enough.
Symptoms go like this,
With the engine off I can easily slip through all gears (Like butter)
With the engine running it does not want to go into gear. I have to grind 1st to get it in.
With the clutch fully pressed and the car in gear there is a slight acceleration (Like its not fully disengaged)
Strangely, the clutch does not seem to fully engage until half way into the pedal throw (Wonder if the pressure plate is over torqued?)
I can get into 1st without the grind but requires me to slip it in as I come to a stop and hold the clutch (It no good)
The car is somewhat drivable but this clutch situation has to be remedied before I can commute it. (the cars main function)
So, lets hear suggestions.

[FiberFast]

After some inspection of the old clutch I have come to the conclusion that there is only one thing this could possibly be. I put in an order for a brass pivot pin from ecs. The clutch engagement is half pedal clutch does not fully disengage, why? That plastic pos tip is broken. There really is no other viable explanation for what I am experiencing so next weekend the transmission is coming out...

[FiberFast]

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That's what happened to the spare I took out of the old transmission. I am 100% sure this is the problem. This is why ecs sells the brass ones, after 25 years those plastic pieces are done. I highly suggest a brass upgrade when you do your clutch. There is absofuckinglutelty no reason for this component to be made from plastic.

[samy01]

this could be your problem indeed. your clutch doesn't disconnect completely anymore right ?

well, my old clutch didn't disconnect fully too, turned out two of the tangential leaf springs snapped. but that plastic thing was still in very good shape after 160k miles.



anyway, you're probably not getting around taking out the transmission

[FiberFast]

Also just pulled the trigger on a set of c2's 17x8.5 square wraped in some general g-max as-03's. These are cheap rims and tires with the whole bundle costing $1100 shipped. I am apalled at how much money some ppl spend on rims and tires.

[FiberFast]

this could be your problem indeed. your clutch doesn't disconnect completely anymore right ?

well, my old clutch didn't disconnect fully too, turned out two of the tangential leaf springs snapped. but that plastic thing was still in very good shape after 160k miles.



anyway, you're probably not getting around taking out the transmission

Going to pull the trans and remove the loose piece of plastic from the bellhousing and replace the clip and pivot pin. The clip from my trans looks good so I will install it with the pin. I will place new shift linkage bushings as well. While I have everything apart I will replace that center shaft bearing cause I will have the axle off anyway. This will also allow me to check and realign the half shaft. All in all this was a major fuckup on my part so fixing it is rightly deserved.
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[FiberFast]

So this being my second order from ecs I have to say while thier website is polished and has loads of parts at fair prices, their shipping and reaction time is shit. If I order a part on Saturday, you take the money on Monday and my part is just "picked" on Tuesday, why the fuck did I pay twice as much for faster shipping? I won't get the part until mid next week. Bummer...

[JEC928]

I like ECS, great selection and they develop aftermarket solutions.

But for stock parts, FCP Euro is the king.

[ddtech]

ECS comes from Ohio, i noted.. they bought the TMS online sales portion. ECS is good for those who are in Ca- no tax, mostly no shipping charges. If you want fast there is pelican (but they add sales tax for us in Ca). Looks like they have a point of distro in S.SF. But for fast+cheap, there is autohausaz. fcpeuro is good too. anyway, people spend money on tires/wheels because they want to, different set of priorities. can't win em all.

[FiberFast]

I am not shit talking ECS, they seem like a good company. I wish they shipped items quicker is all.
My best experience has been www.rockauto.com these guys bill and ship super fast and have unheard of prices. Just don't expect to find allot of aftermarket parts, it's mostly oem or equivalent though they do have some "performance" parts at unheard of prices. Think I paid $60 for stop tech stainless brake lines which are twice the price elsewhere.

[mslevin]

On the topic of online parts stores, I've always had good luck with Summit Racing. Not always the best for OEM parts, but they're often my go-to for safety gear, gauges, etc. Their shipping is free over a certain amount and is crazy fast. Ordered something last night and it should be arriving today from Reno, and thats with the cheapest shipping ($9).

[drummerboi]

RockAuto is pretty good with shipping. Have you tried Rmeuropean.com. Their price is cheap, but shipping is best for us CA residents. Pay before 2 pm Pacific and your parts will be here next day. Free shipping with $65 over.

[FiberFast]

On the topic of online parts stores, I've always had good luck with Summit Racing. Not always the best for OEM parts, but they're often my go-to for safety gear, gauges, etc. Their shipping is free over a certain amount and is crazy fast. Ordered something last night and it should be arriving today from Reno, and thats with the cheapest shipping ($9).

+1 for summit racing! I have been ordering from them for years and they are awesome.

[FiberFast]

RockAuto is pretty good with shipping. Have you tried Rmeuropean.com. Their price is cheap, but shipping is best for us CA residents. Pay before 2 pm Pacific and your parts will be here next day. Free shipping with $65 over.

I looked at some of thier stuff and meant to give them a try. I'll take a look later.
17x8.5 trm c2's with g- max As-03's 225/45zr-17
Are comming, so exited! Also going to replace the cat back next month (hopefully) then it's on to the rear end.
Off the top of my head stuff that needs to be done.
1. Remove transmission and replace the pivot pin.
Obviously I am going to inspect everything carefully, clutch systems are pretty simple so it was easy to discern the problem.
2. Remove the axle (this will hapen before the trans obviously) replace the pos Center shaft bearing and realign.
3. Inspect leaks and adress (almost everything is leaking, I am becoming to accept this as a norm for these cars. Everything was torqued to spec) some at least one, power steering line is leaking from the compression during. I will need to inspect further, might also be leaking at the banjos. Oil is leaking from somewhere so I need to inspect and fix that. Trans fluid is leaking because I did not torque the piss out of the drain bolt so that will be torqued to spec.
Coming soon,
Wheel fitment and spacers.
Rear end rebuild with lsd and new bushings/controll arms.
Coil over suspension.
Break upgrades
Cat back
Software/tune
Exterior/paint & knockoff m3 effects.
This is the short list.

[FiberFast]

So the bushings I ordered where not what I wanted. I need the little yellow spacers that go on either side of the shift linkage bar.

[JEC928]

LOL at the short list.
These lists have no end...

[FiberFast]

LOL at the short list.
These lists have no end...

Nono, there is an end for me... I have to assure my wife of this every time I buy parts. Part of the joys of living in ca is the smog laws dictate how much I can spend. I will have a list three times as long for little things to do, the bulk of the money spending (big ticket items) is coming to a close.
I have new front spindles with new bearings and stop tech rotors (they are huge) I need m3 calipers for them, which will cost about $200 from rock auto.
I have a set of sloted rotors on the silver car I will use for now (when I get the chance to move them over) I am going to use a pos manzo catback $300 shipped. I am going to do my best to find descent suspension in the $500 range. I have the rear controll arms, I need the diff and bushings $1000.
So to complete the running gear I am thinking $2500. The whole project should be finished for around $4k, this will include paint (doing myself) fiberglass panels ect. Total build cost will be somewhere in the $12k range including the $3500 spent on the car.
Make no mistake, this is a budget build. It may not seem like it but if you consider the scope of the project and the fact that this will basically be a new car it makes allot of sense. This is what it costs to rebuild a sports car properly.

[FiberFast]

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[FiberFast]

Pics don't do them justice.
Tire rack is badass! Paid yesterday, delivered today.
Fitment with the 225 tire is perfect. They certainly don't need any spacers, I can drop 1.5" front and 1" rear no problem.
In hindsight I should have gotten 245's but the price was right for the 225's. Tires wear and I will go for some 245's next year.

[JEC928]

Re: Wheels and tires:
two thumbs up dot jpeg!

Re: $300 Manzo exhaust:
I decided to do this instead, in process now:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ttle-different

Re: M3 front brakes:
Not sure if you know this, but the entire front suspension is different from non-M to M. I swapped complete M front into mine due to this.
The spindles/kingpins/hub units that the different caliper brackets attach to are themselves different: Reference:
http://jj100d.blogspot.com/2011/03/e...ike-legos.html

Also 95 M and 96-99 M have different brakes, what year did you get?

[ddtech]

right on... doing my suspension today. got the koni SRT kit, came with H&R springs. also got eibach sways, etc. i prefer billies and h&r with TMS sways, but this was more for cost. i'd never done e36 suspension (only e30), but i now understand that there is a right way and a wrong way in terms of sequence. Your car is looking great. wives seem to never understand the thrill of putting something together.

[JEC928]

Make no mistake, this is a budget build. It may not seem like it but if you consider the scope of the project and the fact that this will basically be a new car it makes allot of sense. This is what it costs to rebuild a sports car properly.

For reference, a non-budget E36 build:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=489481

[ddtech]

Also 95 M and 96-99 M have different brakes, what year did you get?

This is why pre '96 are not used for the 5-lug swap for E30s..

[ddtech]

re: m brakes.. meaning they are different between those years and early components don't fit..