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Also far from perfect. well see if they hold tomorrow.
Also removed the new fuel pump from the silver car and installed it in the red car. I can feel quite a difference in performance, especially in the upper rpm range.
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So long as they deal up right, I should get a descent little weight savings with these.
Pro tip for exhaust manifold install: order N54 studs, they have a torx tip so you can install and torque them into the head with a torx socket instead of double-nutting.
I didn't weld up my OBD2 manifolds, I bought Hard Motorsports block-off plates from ECS Tuning for those SAP ports. Haven't run it yet.
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They are believed to flow better too.
The OBD1 ones are heavy enough to use as boat anchors! Can't wait to add those to my next scrap metal run.
I have the raceland shorties as well. Don't want to cut my mid pipe though, so I think those are for sale.
I think for right now I am just going to re use the old studs on the m50, but I will order the n54 studs for the m52. Thanks for the tip.
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Might hold for a little while. Need to figure out a bracket for this. Also removed the cruise control module. Also removed the hood liner, my paint is pealing already so screw it.
btw, what is the torx size for those N54 studs? They are quite small.
Last edited by ddtech; 03-14-2017 at 01:19 AM. Reason: n54
'86 E30 325i coupe, euro
'94 E36 318is coupe (Undergoing M52B28 swap)
'95 E36 325i sedan
'97 E36 328is coupe
'83 Porsche 944
'11 E90 328i sedan (soon)
'18 F31 330i touring
I will post the answer when I get home and look at it. I do remember my local O'Reilly's only had complete sets and it was the smallest in the set.
They are tiny - you must take extreme care to keep one hand firm on the socket to keep it straight on the stud's torx when torque-ing to a very tight 20nm. At least two of my new studs may be damaged from slipping off. Still less trouble than double-nutting, I hate doing that for high-torque applications.
Also, the copper nuts that go on the studs to hold the header on are supposed to be one use only, so buy new nuts.
UPDATE: the small torx socket is an E6 (sockets are E, drivers are T).
Last edited by JEC928; 03-15-2017 at 09:01 AM.
Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.
I have them in already but just finger-tightened. Need a socket. Thx you guys..
studs_copy_sm.jpg
'86 E30 325i coupe, euro
'94 E36 318is coupe (Undergoing M52B28 swap)
'95 E36 325i sedan
'97 E36 328is coupe
'83 Porsche 944
'11 E90 328i sedan (soon)
'18 F31 330i touring
I am going to reuse my nuts and studs on the m50. Vanos is dying anyway. What happens if your Vanos fails completely? Is your engine dead? Or just loss of top end power?
Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.
1489624813359-1507819044.jpg
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Bit of cleanup required.
The gunk is from the dipstick seal. I will replace it.
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-15-2017 at 09:45 PM.
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This swap sucks...
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-15-2017 at 09:36 PM.
Next project is to get the transmission unbolted and figure out what is going on.
I'm still convinced your $200 silver car was Samana Beige Metallic from the factory. Strut towers are the same dark gold as mine, much darker than the pale gold of the real color from years of engine compartment life.
Silver car was bostungrund or some shit.
It stll has the paint label, I guess they descided not to paint over the label for whatever reason.
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Last edited by FiberFast; 03-16-2017 at 07:28 PM.
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I noticed these two plugs on the oil filter housing. Can I use these for an oil cooler? Pretty sure this one is from an m3.
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-16-2017 at 08:36 PM.
that link (59555358) didn't work. btw, that engine looks way cleaner than mine. yours is probaby local, and mine came from new england area (with car).
another thing, how does one torque an 1/4 in. E6 socket to 20nm when an adapter will need to be used with a 3/8 torque wrench. It seems that the adapter won't be any good after it 's finished with all those studs, if it even lasts without breaking off..
'86 E30 325i coupe, euro
'94 E36 318is coupe (Undergoing M52B28 swap)
'95 E36 325i sedan
'97 E36 328is coupe
'83 Porsche 944
'11 E90 328i sedan (soon)
'18 F31 330i touring
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New clutch, it's a Sachs clutch labeled 3082 892 001. Not sure if that means anything.
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Great...
So I discovered the clutch issue, it was the slave cylinder installed in the transmission. The piston bore looks to be completely rusted which would explain the "crunchy" feeling I experienced. Trying to figure out if I want to get a new one or use the one I have on the red car.
Also wondering if I should go through the hastle of removing and inspecting the clutch, I would rather not deal with the stripped hex bolts if I don't have to. Is there any specific alighnment I should be concerned about?
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-17-2017 at 01:01 AM.
Cleaned things up a bit.
Started to install guibo then realized I need new nuts and one of the bolts was frozen to the steel insert in the guibo. Pushed the bolt out with a press and the sleeve came with it, so I will need a new bolt or salvage one from the red car.
I ordered some new rear swaybar end links and transmission mounts. The motor mounts in the silver car appear to be in decent condition so I can save $100 there, and use those as the mounts in the red car are dead.
The M52 was missing the bracket that holds the dipstick in place, the PO put a bunch of orange rubber gasket crap (I use black RTV ffs) in the pistick hole and whilst trying to remove the goop I discovered the 1/2 O ring.
I tilted the engine and was unable to retrieve the other piece of the O ring from the drain plug. I will be putting in a new oil pan gasket and cleaning the muck out of the oil pan. Hopefully I discover the missing bit of O ring and while I am in there I can do a basic internal inspection. I will be looking for bent, scored, corroded or abnormally worn components.
The PO kicked me down some solid delrin rear trailing arm bushings I am considering using, but I also don't want to get hammered on driving those on the street so any advice there would be appreciated.
I still have a good bit of suspension/brake work to do on the red car so I will need to pussyfoot about on the new motor until I get the car properly sorted. I also need to get a limited slip differential to properly apply the power, I want to go with a lower gear ratio high 2's low 3's. The car has and will have significant weight reduction and larger rims/tires and I feel like the longer ratio provides a better gear/speed for street driving without sacrificing acceleration due to lower mass. I spent $400 on parts this weekend and I still need to buy the chip and cams so I am obviously going to spend somewhere in the $1500 range to do this swap, I was hoping to do it for $1000 or less but that's looking less than likely.
I need some advice regarding the hydraulic lifters/lash caps. The engine is bone dry of oil and has it has been sitting for four years, do I need to remove the trays and vacuum fill the lifters? or can I just disconnect the spark plugs and pump up the oil pressure by turning over the engine a dozen times?
On the drive shaft, someone had mentioned marking where the drive shaft aligns to the transmission before removing it. I am installing a "new" transmission as well, do I just cross my fingers and hope everything drive shaft related balances? If someone could elaborate on the standard protocol for center shaft bearing installation and pre loading that would be helpful.
Bump for questions unanswered.
Those n54 studs do not fit my head. I am so not installing those.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-K7fCQlUhj0
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