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Thread: Fiberfast build thread.

  1. #76
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    What DME did the $200 car come with?

    Also you posted a picture on 2-26 that shows a cleaned-up motor with an OBD1 crank position sensor. Is this your original '95 car, or the $200 car that supposedly has a 2.8 M52?
    Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    What DME did the $200 car come with?

    Also you posted a picture on 2-26 that shows a cleaned-up motor with an OBD1 crank position sensor. Is this your original '95 car, or the $200 car that supposedly has a 2.8 M52?
    The cleaned up motor is the supposed M52B28 The crank sensor and wheel are from a obd1 m3 engine placed there by the po. I looked at it and came to the conclusion that it was not a problem until learning of the different computers. Its quite possible that they used different crank triggers as well. Then I am curious how he ran the m3 engine on the 413? Maybe he had the m3 computer as well?
    The car came with the OBD2 96 computer for the 328. I am getting more parts from him this weekend, including the red label 413 computer. I am going to go ahead and swap the cam & crank position sensor and trigger to a m50 setup. Also going to switch to m50 knock sensors, temp sensors and get a chip to run it.
    Anything else you can think of?

  3. #78
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    I'm pretty sure there is detailed information buried in this forum on OB2--to-OD1 conversion, as back in the day everyone did exactly that because nobody could tune OBD2.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    I'm pretty sure there is detailed information buried in this forum on OB2--to-OD1 conversion, as back in the day everyone did exactly that because nobody could tune OBD2.
    I'm leaning towards the crank trigger and knock sensors being the issue here. Its deffinately something not obvious considering it's history.
    I have done extensive searching and have not found a swap guide with parts list, however I think I have a good idea of what is needed and will compile a list this weekend.

  5. #80
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  6. #81
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    Pretty sure that's the problem right there. Look at the alignment pin location for the crank pulley. If you notice the black line from the alignment pin runs right through the -2 teeth section on the hall affect triggers. On a m50tub25 the alignment pin is 120 degrees over?
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-04-2017 at 01:45 AM.

  7. #82
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    cimg0106.jpg
    - - - Updated - - -

    As you can see, the m50usb30 used an old school m50 crank trigger and 506 computer, while the m50tu used a different alighnment pin location and the 413 computer. So this was never going to start on a 413 because the trigger wheel was setup for a 506 computer.
    The M50Tub25 Trigger is on the bottom.

    Can anyone verify this? I am 90% sure.
    Guess I can go eyeball the one on my 325is.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-05-2017 at 12:29 PM.

  8. #83
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    I can't tell because the 325 still has the ac pulley installed so I can't see the alighnment pin. What I do see is that the pullies are verry different.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-05-2017 at 01:23 PM.

  9. #84
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    How curious, the pulley on my red car looks like neither of the ones pictured.

  10. #85
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    Need more back story.
    Why does M3 keep popping up in this investigation?

  11. #86
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    0305171718.jpg

    Scored some pink top injectors.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    Need more back story.
    Why does M3 keep popping up in this investigation?
    Ah yes, the source of all the trouble. So the m50tub25 that was originally in the car blew a head gasket, that was replaced by a 95 m3 motor, that motor was over reved and windowed the block. I believe the parts from the s50usb30 where swapped into the m52b28 that now resides in the car. I am at the point where swapping all the components (known to work) on the m50 in the red car onto the m52.
    1488763669165-372938663.jpg

  13. #88
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    Aha, that clears things up a bit.

    So red car is chassis being kept, but you're not going through the hassle of putting the M52 from the $200 car into it until said M52 runs. Carry on, and good luck!

  14. #89
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    Well, I am thinking... I know everything in the red chassis is working.
    If I find myself those m3 cams, I can do OBD1 M52b28 +M3 Cams +M50 Intake Manifold +Pink injectors +OBD2 Headers +intake and get a chip for that.
    I would still prefer a full tune for the motor so I am looking at my options. All these parts were given to me when I bought the car or kicked down afterwards.
    My total budget for this swap is $1000 and I have spent $400 including car and tow (Had to buy a new torque wrench) so I need a chip, build an intake (3D printed plastic, fiberglass reinforced) find and install m3 cams.
    I have everything else I need for this swap. (I think) if I move everything over from the M50TUB25 in the red car when I put the M52 in there it should work. (With appropriate chip/tune)
    As you said, I would like to see it run before swapping... On the other hand, I have a known working system to run the motor...
    You can see my dilemma as I am looking around for all the parts I need.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-05-2017 at 09:28 PM.

  15. #90
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    I need to order a whole new hose set (the m50tub25 hoses are not oem) the red car still has a phantom vacuum leak somewhere. My guess is the brake booster & or heater core. I can hear a leaking sound after using the heater, then shitting off the car (don't know if this could cause a vac leak but still need to replace it) the fluid in the brake resivoir is black in color (not good) and I assume it's from deteriorating hoses. When I do the swap I plan on replacing as many hoses as possible.

  16. #91
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    What's this about 3D printed manifold?
    That is a ton of work to design and build for zero or less flow gains.

    These manifolds have all kinds of engineered attachment points like threaded metal inserts for fuel rail and the funky clip-snap for the Idle Control Valve that would be dimensionally challenging to one-off recreate in a material suited for underhood temperatures.

    Unless you're fitting ITBs or a trick air-water heat exchanger for a roots/twinscrew compressor there is no need to reinvent the wheel... just use your red car's excellently flowing stock M50 manifold.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    What's this about 3D printed manifold?
    That is a ton of work to design and build for zero or less flow gains.

    These manifolds have all kinds of engineered attachment points like threaded metal inserts for fuel rail and the funky clip-snap for the Idle Control Valve that would be dimensionally challenging to one-off recreate in a material suited for underhood temperatures.

    Unless you're fitting ITBs or a trick air-water heat exchanger for a roots/twinscrew compressor there is no need to reinvent the wheel... just use your red car's excellently flowing stock M50 manifold.
    Yes of course, the 3d printed intake will just be a custom made tube and filter. I plan on using the 3" oem maf and a mishimoto/equivalent elbow for the tb and then making a custom intake tube to fit a k&n ls7 filter (i think it has a 6" flange) deffinately not making a whole plenum.

    - - - Updated - - -

    My printer does an 8x8x8 area so it will be multiple sections glued together then reinforced with fiberglass and painted.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiberFast View Post
    Yes of course, the 3d printed intake will just be a custom made tube and filter. I plan on using the 3" oem maf and a mishimoto/equivalent elbow for the tb and then making a custom intake tube to fit a k&n ls7 filter (i think it has a 6" flange) deffinately not making a whole plenum.

    - - - Updated - - -

    My printer does an 8x8x8 area so it will be multiple sections glued together then reinforced with fiberglass and painted.
    Oh "CAI" intake, not intake manifold - my bad!

    Make sure you design a good shield to try and keep hot engine bay air out.

    I slapped together some junk from Home Depot for mine, though I plan to redo the ghettotastic bent sheetmetal shield with high-temp abs sheet plastic.
    Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    Oh "CAI" intake, not intake manifold - my bad!

    Make sure you design a good shield to try and keep hot engine bay air out.

    I slapped together some junk from Home Depot for mine, though I plan to redo the ghettotastic bent sheetmetal shield with high-temp abs sheet plastic.
    Yea, my shop has a bunch of plastic flight panel used for ata cases I was thinking of using some for the heat shield (already designed) and for door panels as well (sick of looking at door guts)

  20. #95
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    I ordered some header wrap, stainless zipties and a mishimoto intake elbow... None of that does a damned thing for this swap lol. I need hoses and gaskets.
    Seeking advice regarding the oil filter housings. The obd2 one that was on the m52 has a small oil pressure valve similar to a thermostat, the obd1 variant does not. Is it a problem to use the obd1housing?

  21. #96
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    Found the answer, the m50 has the check valve inside near the filter.

  22. #97
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    So the 3D printer is having issues... I had a K&N short ram intake on the silver car so I pulled it and put it on the red car.
    I think I am going to make a simple three piece kit, Part 1. fog light to 3" hose adapter, Part 2. 3" hose to snorkel (This would fit into the triangular shaped cutout) Part 3. intake tube from maf to snorkel.
    What I am thinking is making the "Snorkel" or shroud will be open on the filter end, allowing the filter to be stuffed into the snorkel while attaching the intake tube to the maf.
    This prevents you from hydro-locking the engine by leaving a 1/2" gap open between the end of the snorkel & filter.
    Will require horn movement or removal, and fog light delete.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-08-2017 at 11:06 PM.

  23. #98
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    1489285552679-106339529.jpg

    OBD1 Oil filter housing installed. 22nm, new gasket.

  24. #99
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    1489292232589-1445079258.jpg

    Could not find any o2 bung plugs so I made these from the obd2 o2 sensors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    14892923465711242557315.jpg
    Pass #1

  25. #100
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    14892935805231398666239.jpg

    It ain't perfect, but it should work. Lets do the other one.

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