Fiberfast build thread.

[pbonsalb]

Don’t attempt to build the G250 for turbo use. Buy a used ZF320, linkage and driveshaft (at least the front half). G250 are not worth messing with. When they fail, upgrade to the ZF320.

A 6 speed conversion, whether 420G or GS6-37, is worth considering if you can get lucky and find parts cheap. Few do.

[FiberFast]

I have said this before, but this time I think the clutch is actually fixed. I believe I have properly bled the cooling system and while attempting to do this my heater decided to start working again (Bonus but I also put a small fire extinguisher in the car cause wtf?..) My radaitor fan still work after the re-wiring so there are some bonuses. I have some rubbing/other sounds coming from the rear of the car that are concerning and need looking into. Something in the exhaust system is rattling like hell, and the rubbing and rattling means I only drove it to the end of the drive and back. I can feel the damage done to the trans for sure, maybe bent forks, maybe shot synchros, but its time to figure those out soon. Hopefully I can limp along on it until the end of summer as I desperately want to do the exterior. I'll get the little annoyances out of the way over the next week of so, check engine light is on and off while she is thinking about it... Probably tps and coolant level sensors again (The only two I have not replaced fml)

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Don’t attempt to build the G250 for turbo use. Buy a used ZF320, linkage and driveshaft (at least the front half). G250 are not worth messing with. When they fail, upgrade to the ZF320.

A 6 speed conversion, whether 420G or GS6-37, is worth considering if you can get lucky and find parts cheap. Few do.

I may go that route if I grenade both of these. Probably ZF but that 6th gear is damn tempting.

[pbonsalb]

With turbo torque you don’t need a short diff to liven up the car so you can run a 2.93 or 3.15 and be happy with the performance and cruise at reasonable rpm. With a supercharger, I always wanted more and went from a 3.23 to 3.38 to 3.64. Then I wanted a 6 speed.

Still, buy a 6 speed if you can get it cheap. Weighs more, though. I am going 6 speed now only because I have broken a couple of ZF320 and the 6 speed can take more power. I don’t need the 6th gear, but also won’t mind having it.

[FiberFast]

With turbo torque you don’t need a short diff to liven up the car so you can run a 2.93 or 3.15 and be happy with the performance and cruise at reasonable rpm. With a supercharger, I always wanted more and went from a 3.23 to 3.38 to 3.64. Then I wanted a 6 speed.

Still, buy a 6 speed if you can get it cheap. Weighs more, though. I am going 6 speed now only because I have broken a couple of ZF320 and the 6 speed can take more power. I don’t need the 6th gear, but also won’t mind having it.

Ok so I got the car together correctly this time (drive train/engine) and it is magically behaving. Except now my temp gauge is stuck at half way (You got to be F*cking kidding me) the coolant level is bitching again of course, but the dme seems to be chill on the tps for the moment. Clutch works, brakes work but I need to adjust the camber and all kind of suspension adjustments before I can even hobble to the nearest alignment shop. If I could drive around without rubbing I would say I like these springs allot. The height is perfect for me, ride feels good so far. Too bad bav auto is out of business, cant get these anymore...

I am starting to think that I may sell the other g260 and start with a fresh build all the way back. I understand the 5 series differentials are much beefier and will probably do that. Still shooting for roughly 400whp, its more that enough for me. I am not trying to be the fastest thing on the street, I just want to have something fun to drive. That being said, I think with a few upgrades (Internals, trans, diff) I could make that setup reliable for 100k miles (Turbo @50-60K) and that would be worth it to me. Watching people thrash their shit and constantly having to fix a week link is why you don't want +500hp on a street car. Currently looking at a BorgWarner S256 turbo, looks about right and $550 seems like a good price from a reputable manufacturer.

Needs spacers..jpg
Here is how it sits now. A few adjustment need to be made, it is rubbing all over (Bad) so its not going anywhere without spacers and some moderate fender rolling as well.

[FiberFast]

Well, I been wanting to do this for a while now... So I just bit the bullet on this.
Gas cap.JPG
It is going into the location of the bmw emblem on my trunk. Obviously it is a gas cap. Come up with your own original shit lol, don't be biting. I have an extremely clear vision of what I want the car to look like at this point. Its going to take allot of effort, money, and balls... I mean I am going to install this shit with a fucking 2" hole saw and make it look not hacked. Obviously I am going to re-route the fuel tube and shave the fuel door.

[FiberFast]

Plans for the exterior:

Wheels (Almost done just need spacers and alignment)
Fenders will need some rolling
Fenders need E30 corner conversion fabrication
Fashia need to have the eye lips cut off and be bent in to match the bumper arc, then more material added as the light pocket will be deeper.
Fashia will also need a new vertical 5 series style eye lip fabricated and welded in.
Custom E30-ish 3D printed and carbon fiber reinforced lights/grills
Knockoff M3 front and rear bumper install
E30 mirrors
Symmetrical side skirts
Custom carbon fiber side skirt rocker
Shave fuel doors
Shave door handles and install door poppers
Shave side marker lights
Remove the trunk lip above the license plate and shave the trunk lock.
Cut the lip out of the rear of the body above the rear bumper and shave it flush to match the new front.
Custom 2" rise carbon fiber cowl hood (As oem-ish as possible)
Remove dings, dents, and clearcoat
Replace drivers side window with oem unit.
Custom carbon fiber B pillar caps and removable rear quarter windows
Custom small carbon fiber spoiler that matches the little notch in the rear of the car.

This may take a while, but like I said, I know exactly how I want it to look. Still need other mechanical bits as well, but its finally in good working order.

[FiberFast]

Quick question for those of you who have welded on these cars, what gauge metal did you use?

[drstuess]

I dont think just any old 5 series diff is much stronger (most are still 188?), you would need to find a 210 mm. You should be fine at your desired power levels with a medium case lsd.



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[FiberFast]

I dont think just any old 5 series diff is much stronger (most are still 188?), you would need to find a 210 mm. You should be fine at your desired power levels with a medium case lsd.



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Probably, but I want to properly bullet proof it. I don't abuse my car like a fucking moron, but I do drive it hard. Right now its taking everything not to do the old LSX/T56 treatment, but I think a turbo and the six cylinder is sexy. Plus, the E46 wagon my mom wrecked just got dropped back in the yard and I am considering putting an LSX in that instead... Since I need to rip part of the front sub-frame off anyways (the upper drivers side support structure next to the strut mount) I don't know how bad it is yet... Trying to stay focused on my car atm. Money is always the issue.

Sheet metal gauge?

[pbonsalb]

188 is fine for a 400 rwhp turbo car. The problem will be the 325/328 output stubs, which will break if launched hard enough on sticky enough rubber. M3 axles and diff output stubs will take more abuse.

210 are hard to break. M3 axles bolt up. The diff output stubs are bigger but fit. Rally Road sells a weld on bracket to
mount an E32 210 into a 6 cylinder E36 subframe.

[FiberFast]

188 is fine for a 400 rwhp turbo car. The problem will be the 325/328 output stubs, which will break if launched hard enough on sticky enough rubber. M3 axles and diff output stubs will take more abuse.

210 are hard to break. M3 axles bolt up. The diff output stubs are bigger but fit. Rally Road sells a weld on bracket to
mount an E32 210 into a 6 cylinder E36 subframe.

Interesting, do I need an M3 case for that? I was planning or trying out the racing diffs online progressive locker posted earlier. When I do that I plan on rebuilding the differential completely, if I can machine in larger bearings ect I may go for it. Hoping the old girl stays together long enough to finish the paint and body work I have planned. Really thought though exactly what I am going to do and, if I don't fuck it up, should look angry as hell. if it looks like shit I can take it off and put back to stock. If it looks right I will mod the rear to match.

[pbonsalb]

M3 case is the same as 325/328. I have read that you can machine 325/328 RTA to fit M3 axles. I don’t think you need to improve anything inside the diff other than to add LSD or the equivalent if you have an open. 325 manual with winter package have LSD. No 328 have LSD, at least in the US. All M3 have LSD. But 20-25 year old LSD have worn clutches and the carrier cap bolts are likely loosening up so they need attention.

[FiberFast]

M3 case is the same as 325/328. I have read that you can machine 325/328 RTA to fit M3 axles. I don’t think you need to improve anything inside the diff other than to add LSD or the equivalent if you have an open. 325 manual with winter package have LSD. No 328 have LSD, at least in the US. All M3 have LSD. But 20-25 year old LSD have worn clutches and the carrier cap bolts are likely loosening up so they need attention.

This. Which is precisely why I am looking at the locker kit. For $320 I can get this kit and make it work, or spend $300 on a craiglist lsd that doesn't. The devil you know so to speak...

Also ordered a full set of KSP 20mm wheel spacers. Hardware looks like garbage but its going on studs, I will let you know what I think when I get them.

I also have installed a gang of other shit I should review.
ECS ss clutch line, brass pivot pin and other ECS brand parts I have used are top notch. ECS seems to be doing a great job of representing our community and providing quality products at a reasonable price.
The M3 brakes have settled and I am now experiencing the squishy everyone was discussing, that needs addressing. I have nothing but good things to say about Stoptech/Centric products, you guys are awesome!
The old style 17x8.5 C2 rims rub, they say fender rolling... Nono, you will need spacers for these and I assume that's why they only come in 8" widths now (Lucky for me I grabbed the last set of the 8.5's)
I the Bav auto lowering springs are great, they feel really good. People were complaining about them being soft, they are not, they are soft(er) and feel great for the street. I will post more on these after I have a few more miles on them.
Koni Struts seem like all the rave they are cracked up to be, for my springs I wish I had gone with stiffer bilstiens to match my springs, but that has nothing to do with koni these seem great. As with the springs I will discuss these more later.
The Manzo cheap ass exhaust I put on is actually really good. Its got exactly the tone I was looking for and does not drone at part throttle allowing me to maintain speeds without the hum (Love it) The fitment is not that great and will require some muscle hustling.
The "Handle Bar" I designed is DEFINITELY working. Just hobbling the car around I can hear the bushing squaking on the bar which means two things, 1. Its almost doing what I wanted 2. I need to make some adjustments.
The Valeo clutch/flywheel conversion is light on the spring rate, feels very stockish in comparison to the sachs. I would recommend this for a street car with mild mods for sure. Will get eaten by forced induction.

I plan on selling the torsion bars and a few other parts I am designing and fabbing. I am playing with different company names and shit and I was kinda digging on "Erebus Auto Tech"

[FiberFast]

Hey, I fixed the exhaust rattle. Completely, and it sounds better than it ever has. I was able to adjust it all while it was loose (Including my mid pipe, I have the magnaflow 2-1 unit) and got it all tightened back up right. It actually sits correctly in the bumper as well now (Before it was a little off to one side and a bit crooked) I am convinced I have it setup the way the asshole who tac welded it did lol. Sounds fucking brutal, no more rattle in the mid rev range, deep and throaty with a snarly growl up top. I am pleased.
I will continue the adjustments, I need a basic alignment just to get to the alignment shop. I get the concept but it would be nice to know what does what and any tips are appreciated.

[FiberFast]

Gas cap1.jpg
Gas cap2.jpg
This fits OVER the stock gas cap, so when I move the filler neck I wont be having smog issues. Very pleased with this purchase, haven seen anyone else do this so I hope it will be one of those little details that makes my car a little different from everyone else's. This is my E36, there are many like it, but this one is mine...

[pbonsalb]

That will be custom. You could convert to a fuel cell in the trunk.

[FiberFast]

That will be custom. You could convert to a fuel cell in the trunk.

I am going to leave the tanks where they are and run some fuel grade rigid tube through the tire well area from the oem tank fill location. I will run that up over the battery (I will put my cover back over it ffs) to a flexible fule grade hose that costs $1.75 an inch. So yea lets use as little as possible. I am going to use the hole on the passenger side of the trunk lid to run the hose out.
I also pealed off that stupid ugly piece of trim above the license plate. Still figuring out what I am going to do about the plate lights, and I am devizing strategies for moving my lock mechanism inward about 2" so its not sticking off the back of the car like a little 2" chrome cock now that the trim is gone.

[FiberFast]

Digging into many projects on the car. Right now I am working on a custom piece of trim for the bumper/plate. Going to get this 3D printed real soon. I spent lots of time measuring, I will probably need to make adjustments to the model/print before I am hapy with it but we will see how the first half fits.
Plate trim 1.jpg
Plate trim 2.jpg
Plate trim 3.jpg

[FiberFast]

So I had a failed print which I expected as I printed with no supports. But I got enough of it printed to have a look and make the nescicary adjustments. I have a few things to revise, the top is about 0.5" to high, and the plate tray need to be 0.25" taller.The print failed in an unexpected spot so I will need to design my own custom supports. That seems to be the case with all my prints.

[FiberFast]

Revised design, I may change it a bit more. Do you guys like the angled flush face more? Or this little lip on the revision? I may go for the flush face, still deciding.
Test 1.jpg
Test2.jpg
Test3.jpg
Its a work in progress, but I thought I would share. This one is accurate to fit.
Obviously I will glue the two halves together to form the above shape and laminate them with carbon fiber to make a cfrp component.
I will remodel this to have the flush face and angular design like the previous unit to compare with. If you have not figured it out, this piece is a low profile (width) replacement for the trim above the license plate. Its probably not legal, but I am doing my best to not occlude the license plate with the trim. I don't think I will be bothered.

[FiberFast]

Test V2.jpg
Test V2 2.jpg
Ok I am liking that allot more... I think it will suit the rest of the car. Now, there is about 0.25" arc I have not designed into the part. I will try and print this in sections and see how it fits.

[FiberFast]

Patchwork.jpg
So I need to completely rethink my printing strategy. I think I am going to have to break this down into small 1" strips, Looks like I have greatly improved the dimensional accuracy. It was hard for me to picture what this was going to look like, but after I am seeing the model then looking at this taped together mesh of failed print I am beginning to see what its going to look like and its badass...
Patchwork 2.jpg
I think what I may end up doing is just printing the small pieces, then laminating with cf, then cut the excess plastic out. Open to suggestions if you are an experienced 3D printer.

[FiberFast]

I am completely annoyed with the 3D printer, and I am beginning to consider other mediums. Foam or balsawood. I think I have enough foam I can just cut this out an laminate it. Kind of annoyed this whole process did not go smoother and it left me desiring an SLA printer which is more than I want to spend. I will go cut this from foam and see how that goes.
Arts and crafts 1.jpg
Arts and crafts 2.jpg
Went and played around a little. Still going to cut the shapes from foam. The foam core I have is light weight and rigid, sands and shapes excellently, unfortunately it performs poorly when thinned. I need to build the plate section from thin abs plastic or something thinner and rigid. I suppose I could use the white foam board pictured. It is incredibly light weight. I am thinking glue, bondo, shape, sand, paint, wet lay 3 layers, sand, wetsand, then install.

[FiberFast]

I made this one from foam. It needs to be a little bit bigger to fit the plate. Of course I measured and I can sand it and get the plate in, but I am going to add several layers of material to that. Best to give it another 1/2". Making a new one with a bit o of an arc in it.
Foam1.jpg
Foam2.jpg
Foam3.jpg
Foam4.jpg
Love it? Hate it? Critique away...

[FiberFast]

Starting on a wood core. The foam proved too difficult to work with when thinned. I will post pics when I have something worth looking at. Obviously the wood is heavier, but I mean... This is not exactly going to save weight. Should look good though.