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Thread: Fiberfast build thread.

  1. #326
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by samy01 View Post
    thoughts like your electric motor idea run through my head when i lay in bed and try to sleep

    -e36 V12 biturbo swap
    -e36 v8 swap
    -eating Pizza
    -crazy engine projects

    i honestly would like to see that electric stuff work
    I mean, this is pretty simple to be honest. The components are there, its controlling them that gets tricky.

  2. #327
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    So I took a look at what will need to happen to do this. I will need to cut into the trunk to get the space I need off the back of the diff. I will need to modify an aftermarket diff like a cusco or something I know I can punish, or make a custom carrier with an output spline. I will need to make a custom diff plate I can bolt the motor on that would slide onto the carrier output spline.
    http://www.hpevs.com/Site/power_grap...ak%20graph.pdf
    Something like this would work dandy, this is a little golf cart motor is running 48V/650A. +100 ft lbs and +20 ponies. This is really practical, its going to wake the car up tremendously @50 lbs its not a bad affair.
    Its all about that battery though

  3. #328
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    So two tesla batteries will get about 42v to that little motor, a pair would run roughly $3200. I am going to see if I can find or build a better solution.

  4. #329
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    Well I have stalled on the electric motor idea... On another note I would be happy to make some custom cf piping if someone needs. Its allot of effort and materials are expensive as well, but if you want something no one else has we can work something out. I have designed a few 90 degree elbows and I am going to print and flow bench them to see if they provide less flow restriction than a traditional 90. I am using a 3" pipe over a 6" radius as a control.

  5. #330
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    I decided to design a bottom front mount turbo manifold. First attempt at this but the idea would be to print it in abs 0.05" walls and then coat it in ceramic, pack it in sand and pour it out of iron. This is a preliminary drawing so I will probably make some improvements to the geometry and I am having some issues with the fillet tool so I cant get the little bits finished. Need to do more measuring in the car as well but I feel pretty good about it as a preliminary concept.
    Header1.jpgHeader2.jpgHeader3.jpg

    Ideally I could work on relaxing some angles a bit more and optimizing here and there as well as adding heat shield stands and a bracket that will integrate at the turbo flange and bolt to the block where your ac pump used to be XD
    Header4.jpgHeader5.jpg
    And a couple more to explain those crazy ass pipes. Primaries are 1.5" and dump into 2"x2.5" secondaries square chambers before entering into the turbocharger. Makes excellent use of little space and equals out those runners a bit. I wanted to do more but space is limited.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 04-24-2018 at 02:10 AM.

  6. #331
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    So I did a bunch of measuring and Comparing to the raceland headers I have and this thing is actually dead on. Should fit like a glove. I need to get a gt28 or gt30 twin scroll turbo for final fitment measurements but I am 95% sure there will not be any clearance issues from my determinations with a tape measure. By my estimations the cyl#1 runner should clear the frame by more than half an inch on its intersecting plane, more than likely will have several inches of clearance from the manifold and that is the closest interference that I perceive. I am going to rebuild the model and try to relax some of these port angles now that I have a good idea of what I want.

  7. #332
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    I am redesigning this thing and trying to get it exactly how I want it. I have to say it has proven to be extremely frustrating, the geometry is a major pain in the ass as I expect smooth transitions between lofts/sweeps and that means I need to create multi axis coordinate systems to make single sweeps/lofts. Actually its mostly multi planar lofts because none of these shapes stay the same size except for a few inches of primary runner. The "PITA" turbo flange "ram horn" has given me the most difficulty. Its pissing me off because I know exactly what I want and it just will not let me get there... I can get close, pic for reference.
    Pita1.jpgpita2.jpgpita3.jpg
    So you can see what I want to do here, and I can almost get there, I don't want the spiral to come off the other solid body and leave a gap between them. The helical coordinates are a real bitch and I can't seem to hollow or shell this feature either. Frustrations are real.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 04-30-2018 at 07:16 PM.

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiberFast View Post
    ... Its pissing me off because I know exactly what I want and it just will not let me get there...
    So you can see what I want to do here, and I can almost get there, I don't want the spiral to come off the other solid body and leave a gap between them. The helical coordinates are a real bitch and I can seem to hollow or shell this feature either. Frustrations are real.
    Looks like Inventor. Sounds like Inventor!

    Don't give up! Many a day I fought sweeps and lofts. Occasionally I would need to add some form of reference in a 2D or 3D sketch to "help it along."

    I like where you're going with this.

    Best of luck!

    James

  9. #334
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    Thanks man I am working on it.
    I want to stay in the 6" total width instead of the 8" So I need to pull 2" out of the width just to be safe. I am measuring from the cylinder head to the passenger side frame rail. Another thing to consider is where this will put the turbo exhaust flange in relation to the motor mount. Obviously there will need to be a snaked downpipe that would go back up towards the bottom of the manifold and over the mount then turn down toward the end of the manifold to the position of the oem rear exhaust manifold flange location.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 04-30-2018 at 07:39 PM.

  10. #335
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    I was able to create (Painstakingly) the correct geometry. However, I am now concerned the turbo flange may not be far forward enough. I need a gt37-38 just to fit it in there and see it.
    http://www1.garaget.org/archive/40/39464/76120/76120-761099.jpg
    Someone elses project.



    Last edited by FiberFast; 05-04-2018 at 11:05 PM.

  11. #336
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    It looks tight... I currently have the turbo flange set flush with header flange. The angle is 90 Degrees.

  12. #337
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  13. #338
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    Going to be a real bitch to get those exhaust nuts on. You will have to slip them in and do some finger dancing for the front lower 6 nuts (Least they are in the front) you may need to get under the car for those.

  14. #339
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    Going to do some more work on this, I don't like the sharp angle on cylinder #3 so I am going to wrap that around the inside of the body to get some outward angle on it and relax that a bit. So instead of the No.3 pipe dropping straight down from the flange, it will arc over and follow the inside body of the No.4,5,6 pipe. Otherwise I am fairly happy with it, though I do need to find a suitable turbo for measurement purposes before I bite the bullet on printing/casting this thing. I am sure I will need to make adjustments and probably redesign this from scratch but the important thing for me is the process. I now know how to get the exact geometry I want, and I feel like I have expanded my skills as well.

  15. #340
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    I have finished the model for this manifold but recently purchased an E46 and am in the process of breathing life into another high millage bmw. These cars are all bushings, those go and then everything mechanical gets beat on. I took a ride in the guys e36 M3 from whom I bough the E46 Wagon. Was a low mile (120XXX) well cared for 1999 silver m3, really nice. I thought it was going to be quick when he let it out two gears I just chuckled to myself cause the hellrot commuter has WAY more balls... I took it out for a spin last night cause I haven't started it in two months. its pissed about something and throwing a code but ran relatively smoothly. Chirped 2nd and 3rd hard. When I pulled into the garage something electrical was smoking from behind the dash. My blower motor went out and I noticed my boy had turned it on so I may go in and pull the radio and speakers ect and excess wiring from behind the dash and fix the blower while I am in there so I can defrost my window in the winter. Still a bit of clutch issues but I am going to be digging back into it and getting to the bottom of that as soon as I am done with the basic repairs needed for the e46 325I wagon. I am so grateful to be rid of peace of shit mini vans, and thankful I was able to convince the wife a wagon was better... I mean cause it is...
    Last edited by FiberFast; 07-13-2018 at 02:21 AM.

  16. #341
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    So the car keeps getting pissed about the coolant level. I may need a new coolant level sensor. The temp sensor is brand new. Discovered the brand new Uro hose going from the ICV to the throttle body elbow/boot is absolutely shot. I have a new OEM unit being shipped. I spent a little time working on straightening out the intake as well as it was cocked upwards slightly, I had to drop the (Charcoal canister?) thing down an inch and trim the heat shield. Now I am just waiting for the part.

  17. #342
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    URO = junk, I have also tried them and wouldn't buy again. Also I don't think the cheap coolant level switches work very well/at all.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  18. #343
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    Got the OEM hose on there and oh my god... sounds way better. Getting prepared for the 10th transmission pull now to FINALLY replace that fucking pilot bearing as I am now convinced it is the issue with the clutch. Just got a 1216 code... You have got to be fucking kidding me. TPS is like the only sensor I haven't replaced XD Anyone have objections to me JB welding the new pilot bearing in? I'll replace the flywheel with the next clutch, I am sure the bearing will last that long.

  19. #344
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    Why would you JB weld the pilot bearing? That doesn't make any sense. It just presses in.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  20. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by jc43089 View Post
    Why would you JB weld the pilot bearing? That doesn't make any sense. It just presses in.
    Because the current one is moving around and not staying in place?
    Last year I pulled the trans and found it nearly sideways. Tapped it back into place, trans wroked great for about 3 hours. I assume the bitch is sideways again.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 08-03-2018 at 11:19 PM.

  21. #346
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    '94 325i, '93 325is
    How can it get sideways, it must not be the right one. If it is the right one there is no way it can get turned.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  22. #347
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    I'm finding that the pilot bearing should be 15x32x10. You might want to check yours. (Standard flywheel?)
    Last edited by jmc1590; 08-06-2018 at 11:51 AM.

  23. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmc1590 View Post
    I'm finding that the pilot bearing should be 15x32x10. You might want to check yours. (Standard flywheel?)
    Right so I though the same thing when I seen it in there sideways. I tapped it back into place with a hammer and socket and later removed the transmission to inspect the clutch and install new hardware, I put in a new armature, throw out bearing and I had intended to replace the pilot bearing as well but it was wedged in there good and I couldn't get a paper patch to work so I inspected it and it was properly aligned and spinning without issues so I put it all back together. Worked great for a couple of hours and then back to the problems. I am hoping the pilot bearing is the end to the saga of clutch troubles. On the upside I can take an E36 apart like a pro.

  24. #349
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    Not selling the car. New Koni struts arrived today, new Valeo 328 single mass clutch and pilot bearing kit also picked up today. So, hopefully that solves the clutch issue. Then the suspension is going in along with solid Kline rtabs, megan racing adjustable rears and a whole host of other new parts that have been sitting on the shelf. Rolling up my sleaves and preparing to dig into round 12 or whatever this is ding ding... Ahhh shit...
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-12-2019 at 09:18 PM.

  25. #350
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    Bump from the dead. More information on 325 vs 328 pilot bearings if anyone has any. I dont think they are interchangeable.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 03-12-2019 at 09:19 PM.

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