Fiberfast build thread.

[ddtech]

No prob.

Upon briefly skimming through that section, I better understood a few things. Better late than never to go back and re-check stuff. I still have time, on a personal note.

[FiberFast]

I was able to get the remaining hex head bolts out of my old clutch with some vice grips a small hammer and lots of patience. After looking everything over I am convinced the flywheel is the problem. Looks like the m52 had a single mass. I am considering going to my old transmission as well but I would want to get it rebuilt first. Clutch looks better than 50% worn, presure plate and flywheel are in fair condition.
Considering using the m50 flywheel.

[FiberFast]

14941137787581407795243.jpg
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This is the LUK clutch that came off my old engine. It looks to be physically thicker than whatever was on the m52.

[FiberFast]

After looking over pics I took, the m52 does have a dual mass.
0316171732.jpg. The pilot bearing is not sitting correctly. When I took the transmission out it was cocked to one side so I tapped it back into place, but I don't think it should be that loose. Is there a difference in diameters between the m50 & m52 pilot bearing?
1494352458229-1555020914.jpg
This one.

[FiberFast]

Also, it would appear I have everything I need for the m3 front brakes except callipers. I already have the brakes on m3 spindles and hubs, after some research these should bolt right up.
Attachment 599616
Snagged these off the rear of the silver rat trap. I think it should work out with some new pads. I may need an m3 sway bar. I have the offset oem and delrin m3 controll arm bushings.

[FiberFast]

Just talked to the auto shop. $1000 labor only and probably $200 in parts. That's not the hydraulic system either, all in all I will have to do this myself. This time when I take the transmission out I am going to make damn sure this is fixed.
First of all there is the pilot bearing. Going to get an m52 pilot bearing. I think I am going to skip the dumb shit and use my old transmission so I can rule that out.
Currently trying to figure out if the m52 pilot bearing will work on a getrag 10spline. Either way I will keep the $1000 and do it myself tyvm.

[FiberFast]

Pilot bearings appear to be universal. Throw out bearings are not. So here is my current plan, clean my old transmission up, swap the guibo and pivot pin over, use the longer linkage my old trans has. I will pull the clutch and flywheel and remove the sachs disc and pressure plate. I will install the m50 flywheel with a new pilot bearing. I will use the Sachs disc and possibly pressure plate depending. I will use a new 325is throw out bearing, brand new clutch fork and new hydraulic clutch line. If it doesn't work right after that I will replace the entire hydraulic system.

[FiberFast]

Input Shaft on the old transmission has a lot of slop in it.
Found the pic I took of the pilot bearing, this happened when removing the transmission I am sure, but it don't think the pilot bearing should have that much slop.
0429171057.jpg
So I pushed it back into it's hole. This is obviously not right. If the disc and pressure plate look good I will re-use what I can. Concerned about that flywheel and pilot bearing.

[FiberFast]

Cleaned up the old transmission.
0510171316.jpg
0510171317.jpg

[FiberFast]

Oh god, preparing for another transmission pull.
So far I have ordered a manzo cat back cause the old one is heavy as fuck and last time I bolted it on I told myself it was the last time I would wrestle that heavy piece of crap.
New pilot bearing, new throw out bearing, new hydraulic master to slave line new clutch fork. I will order a new disc if I need one.
Bought most parts from ecs. Ecs ended up getting that pin to me by Thursday so I was fairly impressed thus the reorder, used some local company called "red line 360" for the exhaust so we will see how that goes.

[FiberFast]

So basically after the exhaust and clutch, I am going to have only a few big pieces left. Diff and bushings, suspension bits and brakes. Already well on my way to solving most of this. As mentioned before using known to work or new components is best so I am going to use my old transmission/flyweel/linkage setup with the aforementioned new components thrown in for good measure.

I love www.rockauto.com

$334.62 For re-manufactured m3 front calipers and sport pads and re-manufactured rear 325 calipers and sport pads.

figured I will use the drilled and slotted rears I scooped off the silver car and the m3 brakes up front.
Have not purchased yet but looking at turners website they offer basically the same kit I will have with the calipers for $2300.
I have done monumentally well with this build in the financial department, however I am suffering in the labor dept.

[#1bimmer325]

Where does fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose go?? 95 325 conv

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[FiberFast]

Where does fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose go?? 95 325 conv

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

To the bottom of the intake manifold. There is a small plug for it near the rear of the manfold.

[FiberFast]

Really cool local machinist is turning me a custom brass slave tip for $20. Gonna toss that cat some good smoke (That's legal here)
I am thinking about making adjustable locking brass slave tips, I will make a new thread on that and design the part if there is interest.

[samy01]

with the custom tips you are practically making the rod of the slave longer, because you want it to push further on the big lever, so the clutch will disconnect better, which it doesn't do completely now ? won't this result in a situation where the big lever can't come back all the way like it could without the longer rod, and therefore make the throwout bearing run at engine rpm with more pressure than normal and resulting in shortening it's lifespan ?

[FiberFast]

with the custom tips you are practically making the rod of the slave longer, because you want it to push further on the big lever, so the clutch will disconnect better, which it doesn't do completely now ? won't this result in a situation where the big lever can't come back all the way like it could without the longer rod, and therefore make the throwout bearing run at engine rpm with more pressure than normal and resulting in shortening it's lifespan ?

In short no not really. Rogue engineering already makes an adjustable tip for $50 So no need for me to make them. I am going to try the one my machinist is making, if that don't work I will but the rogue adjustable tip.

[FiberFast]

I noticed the throw out bearing guide tube was worn on the slave side of the transmission so I flipped it over. Should work and dont cost a thing. Mind you this will only work once.

[FiberFast]

After more research I have discovered that the m52 has a larger flywheel and clutch than the m50, what I have is most likely and m3 clutch which is larger than the m52 or m50 flywheel and clutches. So I ordered a new m50 luk disc $62.50 shipped. I will use the oem luk flywheel and pressure plate from the 325is with a new disc. At this point I just want to get that clutch, transmission, and shift linkage out and get the old stuff that worked back in. I am not super stoked about reusing the old dmf and pressure plate but I am willing to bet it will work out fine with a new disc. Least I know it worked with that setup on the m50.

[samy01]

personally i would really be careful with those longer rods

in my logic that would be the same as always having your foot on the clutch a little bit (on a system without the longer rod) while normally driving around, which is definitely not too good for the throwout bearing.

[FiberFast]

personally i would really be careful with those longer rods

in my logic that would be the same as always having your foot on the clutch a little bit (on a system without the longer rod) while normally driving around, which is definitely not too good for the throwout bearing.

When you bleed the clutch It will adjust itself. The rod tip will only change the ratio between pedal and bearing throw. Hope that explains it.

[samy01]

that can't be possible because you always push the same amount of fluid with the master cylinder. you can't suddenly be pushing the rod out further and at the same time have it sit at the same rest position as with the stock one, since your amount of fluid pushed is still the same since you havent changed the hydraulic ration between master and slave.

When you bleed the clutch It will adjust itself

with adjust itself you mean the rod will sit more back into the slave at rest position ? but then with the pedal pushed your rod tip is still at the same point as the stock one since you still push the same amout of fluid.
that's like saying you get more piston stroke when you make the piston rod longer

[FiberFast]

You are making the assumption that the ratio between the master and slave is equal. It is not, so there is already a ratio between the longer master cylinder and the shorter but larger diameter piston of the slave. The throw of the pedal goes way beyond the end of the clutch engagement so there is arguably plenty of room for a longer rod. As far as bleeding the system, when you open the bleeder port on the slave, the pressure plate will push the slave piston back as far as it can go regardless of pin height. Obviously exceeding the piston travel by over extending the tip is a real bad idea and you would get the aforementioned engagement failure. There is a lot of slop in this system though.

I definitely should have done more clutch research. I am going with my old m50 Luk setup with a new disc and the original transmission. Not sure what is on the m52 now but the m50 setup is 8lbs lighter than the m52 setup and I am sure more for the m3 configuration. I don't think I will put more than 220whp down although I will probably be right around 200wtq after some tuning which may be a bit much for that clutch (We will see) by my estimations the brass tip I am getting will be roughly 1/8" longer than what was on the doorman slave cylinder before I knocked the tip off. I did not find the plastic piece so there is another reason to remove the clutch, I am concerned about the pilot bearing and rear main seal being damaged by it. I am hoping installing the new clutch hydraulic line will be easier with the transmission out.

[FiberFast]

Still stoked on my brake setup. Whoever posted the link to all the e36 parts interchange, thank you. So after tripple checking what I have, aside from the missing calipers and pads ($330 from rockauto for all four callipers and pads) I am basically $2000 ahead on those free brakes. Apperently oem m3 spindles cost a damn fortune, I still have not figured out if the ltw m3 spindles I have are any lighter than the m3 or 325/328 spindles.

[FiberFast]

Re: Wheels and tires:
two thumbs up dot jpeg!

Re: $300 Manzo exhaust:
I decided to do this instead, in process now:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ttle-different

Re: M3 front brakes:
Not sure if you know this, but the entire front suspension is different from non-M to M. I swapped complete M front into mine due to this.
The spindles/kingpins/hub units that the different caliper brackets attach to are themselves different: Reference:
http://jj100d.blogspot.com/2011/03/e...ike-legos.html

Also 95 M and 96-99 M have different brakes, what year did you get?

Here it is, thank you Jec. If you go down to the brakes section you will see that all you need for the m3 front brake upgrades is the spindles, rotors, and calipers. As a second opinion I looked up various m3 front brake "kits" to see what was in them and they more or less consist of what I have minus the callipers. Turner wants $2300 for thier upgrade, those are some damned expensive spindles...
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3.../?pdk=BAEAAQEB

[FiberFast]

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$300 shipped. Can't argue with that, it's got to sound better than the old rattle can I have now. Bent tip, bent it back with a hammer. +1 for red line 360