Fiberfast build thread.

[FiberFast]

Ok so from my research (I believe we covered this prior) there is only 1 correct size bearing (OD) but there are two different shaft sizes... I got a new bearing I believe for a 325is, now, follow my thinking here. I believe there are three different bearings but they all have the same OD, so the 328/M3 pilot bearings for the ZF transmission actually have a larger alighnment shaft, not on the splines itself, those are the same, but the the tip of the shaft on the zf I believe is 12mm and the G260 is 10mm. (Correct me if I am wrong, it would not be the first time) SOOOO, remember when I said I found the pilot bearing sideways-ish and then tapped in back into place and was unable to remove it again? yea... how could that even happen if the bearing was tight to the shaft? the tip of the input shaft would have to have been bent in order for that to geometrically happen, which it was not. Long and the short is this, while it may "Work" to throw a G260 on a M52/S50-52 you are putting unnecessary loading on your trans main input bearing if you are not running a 325 10mm bearing. Maybe I am high on this, maybe the PO got the wrong part or threw some random bearing in there? If this is true you should be be able to bolt a ZF to a 325is without the 328/M3 pilot bearing. Can anyone confirm this? I believe I will use a thin layer of lock-tight red carefully spread just around the inside lip on the pilot bearing recess. This should allow for later removal (With some added effort) and I can position it using the clutch alignment tool as it dries.

[FiberFast]

Ok so from my research (I believe we covered this prior) there is only 1 correct size bearing (OD) but there are two different shaft sizes... I got a new bearing I believe for a 325is, now, follow my thinking here. I believe there are three different bearings but they all have the same OD, so the 328/M3 pilot bearings for the ZF transmission actually have a larger alighnment shaft, not on the splines itself, those are the same, but the the tip of the shaft on the zf I believe is 12mm and the G260 is 10mm. (Correct me if I am wrong, it would not be the first time) SOOOO, remember when I said I found the pilot bearing sideways-ish and then tapped in back into place and was unable to remove it again? yea... how could that even happen if the bearing was tight to the shaft? the tip of the input shaft would have to have been bent in order for that to geometrically happen, which it was not. Long and the short is this, while it may "Work" to throw a G260 on a M52/S50-52 you are putting unnecessary loading on your trans main input bearing if you are not running a 325 10mm bearing. Maybe I am high on this, maybe the PO got the wrong part or threw some random bearing in there? If this is true you should be be able to bolt a ZF to a 325is without the 328/M3 pilot bearing. Can anyone confirm this? I believe I will use a thin layer of lock-tight red carefully spread just around the inside lip on the pilot bearing recess. This should allow for later removal (With some added effort) and I can position it using the clutch alignment tool as it dries.

Confirmed. Pilot bearings have same OD with different ID. I am looking at a new pilot bearing for my 325is, it fits on the 325is clutch alignment tool, with a tiny bit of wiggle room. It does not fit on the 328is clutch alignment tool, although it looks like it does, it does in fact NOT. Let this be a lesson to all you fucks swapping transmissions, they are NOT the same size spline nipple! I was recently read a bimmerforums thread where dude was talking about his alignment tool being shit and needing to put duct tape on it. More than likely this was a 328 bearing with a G260 transmission, I believe that was what dude was doing. Well, I should track that cat down and let him know he need a new input shaft bearing and seal for his transmission and a 325is pilot bearing...
On that note, I have probably grenaded my input shaft bearing and seal (I will look at it when its out) I am considering spending a few more bucks on the transmission before just tossing it back in. I was thinking since these G260's get used for a plethora of cars and are getting eaten by all the race cars, maybe a trans shop might make me a good one from the two for the remaining core + parts? I am going to ask around. no harm in that...

[FiberFast]

Removing the Blue paint from these megan racing adjustable control arms. No offense to Megan racing, if my car was blue I would be all about these... But on my hellrot? I like the hand polished raw aluminum look. I'll get you another pic when they are assembled.
Raw Alu Bars.jpg

[FiberFast]

Adjustable Rear Contoll Arms.jpg
Good enough for me. Hand sanded and polished. Ignore the bushings, yes I know those go in the top. I need to get a few more before I get started on the rear. I would REALLY like to get a rogue engineering diff cover and limited slip diff, but that just going to have to wait (Unfortunately) which is bullshit cause I am going to have the rear end apart to do all the bushings. I have to buy the rest of the bushings (Subframe) and I believe the lower insides (The ones that actually go on the control arms) I also need to cough up $270 for all the brake parts, plus I need to design and have rear brackets machined from my brake thread, then find and purchase, or again, design and have manufactured 315x20mm vented rear discs with a 325is hub fitment so you can KEEP YOUR FUCKING E-BRAKE. This is ultimately the greatest dilemma in M3 rear brake conversions. After you spend $980 per rear trailing arm, you have no parking brake. Brilliant...

[FiberFast]

Bushings..jpg

I got the spherical bearing shown here mostly installed. Its flush on one side an standing proud about 1/8" on the other. It that normal?
I got it all the way in, now I am fighting with the upper inner bushing and its proving to be way more of a bitch.

[FiberFast]

Ok, So I put the drivers side rear hardware in (Except the brakes cause parts arent here yet) I need a new dust boot kit cause the KYB one I got is meh. That's fine because while taking out the passenger side equipment, I broke the sensor (yay rookie, shit was really rusty though) and the lower outer bushing on this hub is fucked. I mean I can't put it back in like that, so I need to order new ones and push the bushing out of the drivers side as well. I can fix that dust boot I want to swap anyways, so trying to make a double negative look like two birds. Its been rainy af so the rubber is drying super slow and is still tacky two days later but I think will finish out nice when it does finally dry. I have to say I am a bit winded and I know how much work is ahead. Fuck... Built not bought, for the love of automobiles.
Almost.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and by the way, I thought thought the drivers side was a bitch... The passenger side looks like its going to be hell...
Looking at this for the near future as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-E30-E36...gAAOSw5HBbPxWK


Quick and dirty, like the rest of my build... I like it.

[pbonsalb]

Interesting inexpensive diff conversion. Let us know how it turns out. I have a BMW 210mm in mine, but only because I was breaking diff output stubs when drag racing on R compound tires.

[FiberFast]

I'm going to do this for sure. I think I might need to have the output gears milled a scooch but we will see, for the price I am not complaining. I understand how this works and I am good with it. Its basically an Eaton/Detriot locker lsd conversion, more or less the same hardware we have been running in muscle cars for decades and these can put up with some punishment. The main thing is to understand the difference between your lockers. This progressive locking system has grooves cut into the plates so that the box can twist over the spline shaft and apply additional force (Lots) to lock the plates. This is a huge difference in breakaway torque from the super cheap kits you see (Phantom ect) that only use torsion springs. The design is simple and makes sense, definitely using a magnetic plug, may install a diff cooler in the future as well.

[FiberFast]

So I found a good deal on a set of Bavarian autosport lowering springs and picked them up. Comparing them to the M-sport spring they are about the same height as my m-sport springs but are thinner. I will keep my M-sport springs and if I hate these I will swap them back. Already kinda not liking my decision already, but I think when I see the car put together lowered an extra 3/4" I will be happy (So long as they work good, my car has always felt quite planted)

[FiberFast]

Looking at the Rear Swaybar reinforcements tabs, first of all no, I am not paying $25+ for two pieces of bent plate. I can make that in my shop, I got down to cutting the plate and then it occurred to me... If I make a boxed in reinforcement, I can bend a 1/2" reinforcement bar and thread the ends. Then I can use a few nuts on either end of the box to apply tension, or weld it in. This should have the effect of a stiffer swaybar, but without the associated increase in spring rate.

Ok, so looking into this further and I am going to make something badass! Basically, its going to be a diff support/swaybar support bar. It will in no way interface with the swaybar, other than providing more rigidity at its mounting points (Think strut bar, but for your sway bars) I was trying to figure out how to keep the support bar from flopping around, I mean its threaded and double nutted onto the swaybar support bracket, but I wanted a sure way to ensure it dosn't flop around. That's when it occurred to me I could use a set of old rear swaybar bushings and another set of custom brackets to create a lower diff support bar as well. So its basically a rear end reinforcement bar, ties in at the sway tabs and unused lower diff machine tabs.

[FiberFast]

Handle Bars 1.jpg
Handle Bars 2.jpg
Handle Bars 3.jpg
Something like that... I call them handle bars.
I haven't checked the exhaust yet but it is quite tucked up in there. I will take a look and make sure there is no issue before proceeding to make the backets. I am thinking square stock for the brackets. The handle bar will be tempered then quenched for hardening after I bang a slight twist out of it. The bars will then get threads, two nuts, and washers so you can apply pretension in, or out to your liking, before locking the nuts.
I'm an old man, I hurt my back bending that bitch.

[FiberFast]

Did not clear the exhaust by about 1". I can move it into a different position and it clears just fine. I would have to move the diff mount points way out to do that, and I am looking at it and I can see that if I bend a new bar I can get it to fit with plenty of room to spare if I shorten the center of the bar to be tighter around the diff. The part hitting the exhaust is the lower corner, if I move that corner over about 1" I will clear for days. Also the bar should move very little so there is no worry about anything whacking on it. I have looked around and other than the exhaust it looks all good, you can see in my last post how much extra room there was around the diff. Needs to be tight, with the bends where the zip ties are and the bushings on the inside. cant re-bend it so I'll be buying another bar tomorrow.

[pbonsalb]

I have read before of people with other cars doubling 2 stock swaybars or welding a helper bar to a stock swaybar. Don’t know if either would work on the E36. What do you have planned for the front? These cars like a lot more bar in the front than the rear.

[FiberFast]

I have read before of people with other cars doubling 2 stock swaybars or welding a helper bar to a stock swaybar. Don’t know if either would work on the E36. What do you have planned for the front? These cars like a lot more bar in the front than the rear.

So technically it does not interfere with the swaybar operation. It just ties into the swaybar tabs, and makes the center of the swaybar a little stiffer. Interestingly it does this without affecting spring rate so your ride should feel about the same with a little less roll, it also adds a diff mount point to help stiffen the diff, and stiffens the back of the sub-frame. In the front I plan to use the OE vert reinforcement I don't have yet.

[FiberFast]

Bent a new bar, fits perfectly! Looks perfect! Clears the exhaust with room to spare. Very pleased with myself when I measured it and got it perfect. Next its going into the fire. One of the cool things about being a glassblower/engineer/metallurgist is knowing how to temper steel, fortunately for me I have just enough fabrication skill to put that knowledge to use. I also hurt my back some more, didn't say it was easy.

[FiberFast]

Handle Bars Success.jpg
Upper bar is the good one.
Handle Bar brackets.jpg
These are the prototype handle bar brackets. They have welded in support tubes for the shaft. I don't think they will slide around but we will see. Its a prototype so I assume there will be issues.

[FiberFast]

So I have not tempered the bar yet as I want to thread it first and then chase it afterwards. I need to get a 5/8" thread die, and some nuts. I cut an inch off either end on this one and I really wish it was only 3/4". I will need to use a compression nut on the outside as there is only 1/4" of bar sticking out either end. I cut it with room to clear the sway bar. It will have a large locknut on the inside, the double nut and internal reinforcement on the bracket I am hoping will prevent the brackets from moving around.

[FiberFast]

Differential bracket is done, I need to get longer bolts to test fit it. But I figured I would share my progress. Bushing wraps around the bar, U-bolts secure the bushing to the differential bracket. I hand made this shit with a drill and hand file. Real pride is the work in your hands.
Diff Bracket 1.jpg
Diff Bracket 2.jpg
Diff Bracket 3.jpg
The hardware, custom 1/4" plates ground to 0.2". These plates fit onto the dog ears on the diff and space the bracket so it sits flush on the casting mark on the bottom of the case. The two extra thick ground washers go on the backside and fit in the little groove quite nicely. Going to go get those longer bolts and maybe some acorn nuts to finish off those U-bolt tips.

[FiberFast]

Test Fit 2.jpg
Test Fit 1.jpg
Everything fits perfectly. But you have to install the bushing to the bracket before you mount the bracket to the diff I discovered. It would be very difficult otherwise, I will probably use a clamp to do it tomorrow. Also parts are coming, I got some today already. New tie rod ends, new coolant level sensor. Bushings for the rear trailing arms. and rear bump stops. Rest of the items I need for the suspension should be here tomorrow and I can button that up, and finish the brakes. I was quoted $400 for the parking brake adapters so I am looking around for a better price obviously.

[pbonsalb]

Do you think the brace should be longer so you can put two bushings and brackets on it space furthercart along the flat section of the bar, like all factory swaybars are mounted? You could probably make or weld a bigger brace and salvage a couple of stock bushings and U brackets from some other car that have the right diameter bushing for your bar.

If you are trying to reduce the diameter of the inside of the rotor to fit the brakes, why not make the shoes taller instead? Sort of like this:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604481

[FiberFast]

Do you think the brace should be longer so you can put two bushings and brackets on it space furthercart along the flat section of the bar, like all factory swaybars are mounted? You could probably make or weld a bigger brace and salvage a couple of stock bushings and U brackets from some other car that have the right diameter bushing for your bar.

If you are trying to reduce the diameter of the inside of the rotor to fit the brakes, why not make the shoes taller instead? Sort of like this:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604481

Legit hack on those brake shoes. The gap is huge and it wont work. I looked at doing that and I just need to find the right machine shop. The idea is to do it right, even if the right way doesn't exist yet. One mount should do just fine, remember it still braced at the stock mounts, and this should help the OE mounts work more effectively. I am running out of time on the Handle bars so I think I will drill a hole through the bar and bracket and drop a safety pin through from the top. I want to thread it but this is a prototype and I need to hash out other concerns first.

[FiberFast]

Install 1.jpg
Install 2.jpg
Install 3.jpg
Installed, it is VERY secure. I shook the bar and the whole car shook...
I drilled holes up through the bracket and bar a dropped a 1/4" lich pin through it. If it make too much racket I will thread it and stick a grade 8 bolt in there. I'll test it and see how it works. There are already some things I would change for a kit.

[FiberFast]

So I bled the brakes today, they feel incredibly hard. Like standing on a brick actually. There is little to no "Squishy" pedal feel I have heard reported from others using the stock 325is master cylinder. Brake pedal feels damn good but I haven't run them yet as then clutch fix is coming, then smog prep. I have to hit the alignment shop to get her squared up first thing... My attempts at alignment are poor at best.
Brake setup:
325is master cylinder.
OE M3 brakes front and rear (Rebuild with stoptech/centric components)
Stoptech Sport rotors
Stoptech Sport pads
Stoptech Stainless steel brake lines

I am looking for a descent price on the parking brake adapters and will fix the parking brake when I can.
Obviously I put the trailing arms, tckline bushings, replaced all the bushings and I am waiting on my wheel stud kit from ecs.

[FiberFast]

Ok so I got my wheel studs and Mishimoto fancy red aluminum nuts. Apparently these will take a 30mm spacer, going for 20mm all around. Going to poke a little so a bit more rolling is expected. I really like the ride height on these Bavarian springs, its fuckin just right, we will see how they ride soon I hope.
New pilot bearing/clutch/single mass flywheel installed. Guide bush repair sleeve should be here tomorrow.
In the mean time I cleaned up my electric fan install and moved the relay into the box with the rest of the relays (I'm a stickler for detail) in the most oem fashion I could muster. I will get pics later, I need to test it and make sure it works lol.
I have to tighten my drive shaft bolts and wheel hub nuts... A compression test is in the near future to see if anything is going on with cyl #1 or just some water got down there cause I don't have the cover on. (Rusty water boiled out of the plug tube? could be cracked head or failed gasket we shall see) The overflow/radiator cap is still leaking, this is cap #3 are these things supposed to vent? I am starting to wonder if my expansion tank is the culprit.

[FiberFast]

Things are slowly coming together. The guide bush did not do at all what I thought it did but I installed it anyway and used the better of the two guide tubes I had. I have installed the clutch but have not tested it yet other than getting in the car and hitting the clutch pedal. The Valeo single mass conversion clutch feels much lighter than the sachs pressure plate I had, not sure if this was a pressure plate issue or wtf but we will find out if its fixed soon (Hope) The transmission is in desperate need of a rebuild, I have a spare G260 I am going to build for the turbo motor because this box is on its last legs after the recent clutch abuse. The diff needs to be rebuilt, looking at the racing diffs progressive locker conversion in the near future for that. Wheel spacers are next, I ordered the wrong sensor for the expansion tank, turns out my car has a 94 build date so I need the older one. I need to find or buy another bung for the intake as I am putting it all to stock for smog purposes. I have been having coolant spray out of my overflow cap so I assume I need to bleed the system better, however, my heater does not work (Fried motor?) so now I need to get under the fucking dash (YAY!) fuck my life this car lol...