M62TU "Function Inlet Camshaft Control Bank 2"

[Gootsy]

Hey, So I know this topic has kind of been brought up before but bear with me.

So just over this past summer I decided to go through with doing timing chain guides and everything else that goes along with that on my 2003 540i that I purchased just before summer. So I did the job, replaced a bunch of other things while I had the car apart, and actually managed to be successful with the whole ordeal. Anyway the SES light was on and the only code I was getting once the car was back up and running was "Function Inlet Camshaft Control Bank 2". I cleared the code and it stayed away for a while but I did some research and came to the conclusion that there was no way the timing was off because the car was running all too well and the code was just for bank 2 not both. So the SES light does still come on once in a while throwing that same code but it seems to only really happen when the car is started, run at idle for a few minutes, then shut off and started again.

This can't be due to the timing being slightly off could it? The car runs like new, pulls hard, and it really only happens when I don't let the car run for very long and shut it off but the code seems to stay away for the most part once I clear it.

The only reason I'm kinda concerned about this is because I just got through with supercharging it and I want to make sure I don't potentially ruin something.

Some input on this will be much appreciated!

[bmwdirtracer]

The first (easy) thing I'd do is to swap solenoids from one side to the other, see if the code follows the solenoid.

After that, if the code stays on bank 2, I'd suspect that when you timed the engine, you allowed 1 tooth of "slack" on the driver's side, instead of pulling all the slack to the tensioner side. I did this once on an M62, and the car ran perfectly, but kept setting a code for cam control, bank 2. However, the code did reset every second start, not intermittently.

[Gootsy]

Thanks for your input, I'll probably try swapping the solenoids and camshaft position sensors as well once I have the car back on the road. Am I looking at any potential dangers though if there was some slack left on the drivers side during the timing procedure and I decide not to go back in and re time it? Keeping in mind that this code tends to stay away as long as I don't do any short periods of run time.

[bmwdirtracer]

No, you're fine, a single tooth error on the M62 won't break anything. The cam sensors are not your problem -- the code is wrong for that. If it's not the actuator (solenoid), it's timing. Do you have a scanner capable of watching vanos angles as live data? (There's "commanded" angle, and "actual" angle, and a good BMW scanner can watch both.

Has this engine had good oil maintenance for its lifetime? Nothing kills vanos faster than oil sludge.

(Um, you DID follow factory directions and use correct tools for timing and setting the vanos? Multimeter?)

[Gootsy]

I believe my scanner can in fact do vanos angle live data but I'm not sure what to look for. I remember playing around with some live data from the vanos before but I had no idea what I was looking at.

As for the oil maintenance I cant speak for it before my ownership but the car seemed to have been taken decent care of so I would assume so.

Regarding the timing procedure I did in fact use all the proper tools, followed the directions to a T, and checked for continuity with a multi meter.

I'm no mechanic, just a competent DIY'er who can follow directions, but I was very careful throughout the entire timing procedure knowing I couldn't afford to mess it up.

[bmwdirtracer]

Everything you've said indicates you've done everything correctly....I had to ask about the timing tools and procedure, you know, because it's never safe to assume. That single-tooth error caused by not running all the slack to the tensioner side happened to me once, on about my tenth M62TU, using all proper tools and techniques. I probably just got lucky all the times before.

If you didn't see a bunch of sludge under the valvecovers, you're probably fine in this regard.

Try that solenoid swap, and give us an update.

Oh, with the scanner: you should also clear adaptations, by the way. And for the vanos angles, pull up commanded and actual angles, side by side, and compare them. If they're out by a degree or five, no big deal. If they're out by more than that, the timing is likely incorrect/

[Gootsy]

Thanks for some insight into this issue, I feel a lot better knowing that I'm not potentially going to ruin something.

I'll go ahead and try the solenoid swap once the car is back on the road, although it may be a while due to winter and that I'm still sorting out a pulley alignment issue with my supercharger.

Meanwhile I'll definitely compare those vanos angles next time I have the car running.

Regardless of what I find, I cant see myself re timing it. As long as it continues to run good and there is no real risk I can live with clearing the code now and then when it shows up.

Hopefully it just turns out just to be the solenoid, I'll post an update when I have some news.

[bmwdirtracer]

The re-timing isn't difficult, if you have the tools. Only the upper timing covers need to come off, not the lower. It took me a few hours, as I recall. After releasing the tensioner, you can make the chain jump backwards a tooth on the crank, then relock and retime. You're never going to pass inspection with codes, and it's a dirty shame to saddle your new supercharged power with incorrect timing....

[Gootsy]

I know it's not all that much work, especially after already doing it once, but now with the supercharger in the mix that adds a fair amount of extra work if I were to re-time it.

But with the code staying away for the most part and really only showing up periodically, primarily when the car is only ran for a minute or two, shouldn't I have no problem passing inspection as long as the code doesn't come up on the spot?

Also regarding power, there hasn't been any noticeable power loss, if any at all. Like I said, the car runs great and pulls hard, I even managed to run it down the drag strip while it was still stock and it ran what it should.

I'm hoping it does just turn out to be the solenoid.

[bmwdirtracer]

In order to pass an emissions inspection, the car has to complete the self-checks of all parameters, usually requiring at least one long drive cycle (~50 miles), without setting any codes.

[Gootsy]

Guess I'll just have to wait and see, although I think the car should have no problem passing.

Anyway I'll be sure to post an update regarding what I find between looking at the vanos live data and eventually swapping the solenoids.

Thanks again for all the information!

[Gootsy]

Finally got around to trying to check those vanos angles, unfortunately my scanner wasn't able to do so though. I did clear adaptations which made a very noticeable difference in the engines characteristics right away just at idle. Looks like I'm going to have to use INPA if I want to actually check those vanos angles.

[Gootsy]

Finally got around to swapping the vanos solenoids from bank to bank to see if the code would move from bank 2 to bank 1 but unfortunately I didn't have any luck. Guess a bad solenoid isn't the culprit.

[MIKYZZ4]

Wow, finally? 3 months for a simple swap, hate to see the time required for a full set of sparkplugs replacement.
I'd guess my suggestion for not only a swap, but a complete cleaning of the solenoids would be a monumental project.
Clean all Vanos solenoids, along with checking and cleaning connections, If you want quick results.

[Gootsy]

I just never got around to doing it and I finally had some time. I might as well go ahead and clean the connectors though.

[MIKYZZ4]

Remove the solenoids and clean them, not just the connections.

[Gootsy]

I did clean them up a bit when I swapped them but since the code didn't follow the solenoid from bank 2 to bank 1 the issue isn't the solenoid itself.

[bmwdirtracer]

Did you clear the code for bank 2, and then have it reappear, after swapping the solenoids?

You've recently been inside the motor: how nasty was it in there?

You need to see the commanded and actual angles of the vanos / cams.

Have you had to do an emissions inspection yet?

[Gootsy]

I did clear the code, it's reoccurring. It's actually consistently coming back as of lately, it doesn't stay away for a while after I clear it like it use to.

The last time I was in the motor was when I did the timing chain guides and everything back in July but it didn't look bad at all.

I'll try and take a look at those commanded and actual angles with INPA.

And I have not had to go to emissions yet but that's coming up not too far in the future.

The car still runs great despite having the code but I'm at the point where I just really want to get it sorted out finally.

[JimLev]

What's your actual Pxxxx code?
Your trigger wheel is probably slightly off.

[Gootsy]

The code is 34, P0022 I believe

[JimLev]

The code is 34, P0022 I believe

OK, that's bank 2 (drivers side) intake cam over retarded.The trigger wheel is not set correctly.
Score the trigger wheel and the vanos so you know where you started from then loosen the nut on the end of the Vanos and turn the trigger wheel a few degrees CW. Tighten the nut and you should be all set.

[Gootsy]

Thanks for the input, I'm still going to eliminate all other possible causes and get a few more peoples opinions before I go back into the motor.

I'm going to check the connector for the bank 2 solenoid tomorrow and follow the wire up into the harness to see if there are any issues there.

If I do end up going back into the motor I'll probably just re time it and I might as well swap in some rebuilt vanos units while I'm there. It's just a fair amount of work just to move the trigger wheel and not do anything else while I have everything all apart.

[bmwdirtracer]

Um, according to the first post, the code was :""Function Inlet Camshaft Control Bank 2", , was it not?

When did this code change to "Camshaft Over Retarded" ?

[Gootsy]

All I know is that my scanner tells me "P0022 Function Inlet Camshaft Control Bank 2"

INPA tells me "34 Vanos Bank 2"