e36 M3 possible LS Swap

[HJSUSA]

I see. I think engine armor uses tech line brand of coatings. I dont want to drop any money just for the color of the headers.

Damn, Vorsh said you can use stock radiator for 400-500whp. Which radiator are you running/recommend?
Maybe for track use you are suggesting bigger radiator.

I am planning going to go with the holley 302-1 oil pan.
I saw your video of under the car, and it seems ther is about an inch of gap between the subframe and the sump of the f body oil pan.

[OKsweetrides]

The biggest radiator that will fit within the dimensions will be plenty sufficient. I run a C&R (bimmerworld) radiator. I rarely get any of my fans turned on when ambient temps are <70. If you properly fill the coolant, and do not have A/C radiator mounted, then the stock radiator will be acceptable for a stock LS3. If however, you have A/C radiator mounted, then yes, you might want a larger core radiator if not, then good electric fans if your constantly in hot ambient temp.

You don't need to coat the headers, unless your just itching to do it for bragging rights... I run a 650rwhp nat asp 427 in my race car and the steel long tubes on it are plenty fine not coated, and they've got a 12 years of track abuse on them. The only thing that gets hot are the footwell and tunnel area since that's the surfaces closest to the headers. Headers aren't the sole cause of heat in you engine bay. Your engine block and radiator will kick off a significant amount of heat. If your not familiar with thermal management, so long as you have stagnant air, a constant source of heat will continually raise the temperature. If your slowly getting air of the engine bay, then the heat will rise slower when measured by a probe. If your able to create the right pressures and get enough air mass exchanged per unit of time, then you'll never have to worry about super crazy heating. But still... your not gonna have wicked high temps. It'll be some EngTemp(1-x)+Header(x) proportion as the upper limit.

[bimerok]

I see. I think engine armor uses tech line brand of coatings. I dont want to drop any money just for the color of the headers.

Damn, Vorsh said you can use stock radiator for 400-500whp. Which radiator are you running/recommend?
Maybe for track use you are suggesting bigger radiator.

I am planning going to go with the holley 302-1 oil pan.
I saw your video of under the car, and it seems ther is about an inch of gap between the subframe and the sump of the f body oil pan.

As far as radiator, Stock Berh Radiator was fine with LS1 on the street and marginally OK on the track. When I switch to LS2, the stock radiator became less then marginal on the street in anything above 70F. The fan would constantly be running in anything other than highway driving while at above 70F ambient and water temps would always be around high mark for the thermostat. Track use was out of the question at that point.

If you are only planning on using the car on the street I would just go with anything aluminum that is bigger than the stock radiator's useful area. Larger and thicker core. I went with FSR Dual Pass radiator. They were cheap and great quality. I have a write up in my 328 LS2 upgrade/build thread.

As for the oil pan, with LS1 F-Body pan there is actually less then 1" of the space in the tightest spot ( don't know exactly how much space), but obviously nothing is touching and nothing is handing lower than the subframe...

[HJSUSA]

Damn I just put in this Behr radiator 17112227281 it's the Z3 M one and its supposed to be an upgrade from the stock 3 row one. Also the core is suppose to be 42mm vs stock 34mm.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-radiator-z3-behr-17112227281

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5256-mz3-s54-oem-behr-radiator-upgraded-thicker-core-radiator-for-e36/

I am also running Evans waterless coolant.
Maybe this combo will save me from buying a new radiator for now. Have to see.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Damn I just put in this Behr radiator 17112227281 it's the Z3 M one and its supposed to be an upgrade from the stock 3 row one. Also the core is suppose to be 42mm vs stock 34mm.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...hr-17112227281

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...iator-for-e36/

I'm planning to use that radiator as well. LS2 on the street.

Tipsy

[bimerok]

Well, based on the core width that you posted, it's already about 20% improvement. You can always start with what you have and work from there if it's not enough.

[fallguy]

On the subject of rads.... im looking to do something like this with my Z3, notch the rad support and lower the rad 2-3". mine would not be for a cold air intake but feeding from the top of a vertical flow inter cooler, the two turbos will feed the bottom.

Thats the plan anyhow.

546d067837b47_-_flyin-miata-lg.jpg

[pMak26]

Damn I just put in this Behr radiator 17112227281 it's the Z3 M one and its supposed to be an upgrade from the stock 3 row one. Also the core is suppose to be 42mm vs stock 34mm.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...hr-17112227281

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...iator-for-e36/

I am also running Evans waterless coolant.
Maybe this combo will save me from buying a new radiator for now. Have to see.

On the street this rad is plenty efficient enough. On the track however, LSs build a lot of heat very quickly.

[HJSUSA]

Fellas,
I pulled the trigger on the LS3 Engine, T56 trans, connect and cruise package.
Which starter?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/9109/10002/-1
adjustable mounting block

or
http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/9509/10002/-1
nonadjustable mounting block
One is good for 11:1 compression, the other 18:1. Then engine is only 10.7:1 cr.

Fuel pump:
Which one?

[HJSUSA]

So the engine was delivered today:

ls3 1.jpg

ls3 2.jpg

ls3 3.jpg

ls3 4.jpg

Just waiting on the Vorsh Headers.

[HJSUSA]

Bimmerok,
Is the heatshield you added worth it? Is it Thermotec?


Which size shifter is this the 16mm or the 12mm?

[TipsyMcStagger]

Bimmerok,
Is the heatshield you added worth it? Is it Thermotec?

Maybe Jai will reply if you bump his thread; Jai hasn't enjoyed driving his swap very much. One of the reasons is excessive heat in the floors and the tunnel. I'm assuming some of the heat is a factor of where the exhaust is routed but there's no question that using some kind of heat barrier is a smart decision. I don't think Jai used any heat barrier.

Which size shifter is this the 16mm or the 12mm?

The difference between 16mm and 12.5mm is simply the thread pitch for the shift knob. I bought 12.5mm because there are more shift knobs available in 12.5mm.

Tipsy

[bimerok]

Bimmerok,
Is the heatshield you added worth it? Is it Thermotec?


Which size shifter is this the 16mm or the 12mm?

Yes, heat shield is definitely good idea. Double the exhaust, double the power generates lots of heat. So you do want to add some heat shielding. The one I use is from summit racing, made by Heat Shield Products (SHP). Link in this post: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post27635360

As for the shifter, it's been a while, but I think it is their regular 16mm.

[HJSUSA]

Steering shaft:
from previous post:

Flaming River FR 1963 $114
FR 1964 $114

Shaft: Borgeson BRG 450024 $80

Are there cheaper alternatives than spending $114 for each of those flaming river joints?
Are there any joints made by Borgeson that can be used?
http://www.jegs.com/vpt/Borgeson/Ste...int/4294920354

[bimerok]

On wow, they raised prices quite a bit. Used to be $75 per U.

[HJSUSA]

Today I bought:
Aeromotive 340 fuel pump kit.
Corvette fuel regulator AC DElco 19239926
MGW Shifter OEM 16mm (I have an after market shifter anyway; you can buy just the 12mm thread rod for $15 later) There is a 5% coupon.
Trans mount:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy-Suspens...1142G/10002/-1
Powermaster 9109 XS starter
Adapters for throwout bearing to run the clutch bleeder lines.

Bimerok, where did you purchase the steel braided lines, for the clutch bleeder?
Need to make PS hoses.

[bimerok]

HRPWorld. I think part number was BL-6104-36. 36" -4 Teflon Brake Line w/ Straight/Straight Swivel Fitting Ends. $15.29

You will also need FCM2967 from the same vendor. This is the fitting that goes into the Slave bleeding port and will connect to the bleeder line.

On the end of the bleeder line you can get the bleeding screw of your choice. I got my basic bleeder screw in Advaned for couple of dollars.

[HJSUSA]

Bimerok,
Which one is BL-6104-36 in this pic? the top one (long)? I need a shorter one too like you have in there right?
Should I get 4 of these and use 2 for the clutch and 2 for the powersteering?

[bimerok]

The shorter one is the pressure input and is only 16" long. Part Number: BL-6104-16. You will also need a fitting that goes into the slave Russell 641001 from any vendor like summit, ebay, etc... Then to connect pressure line to the chassis side you will need Pegasus 3265-19. I have now solved your clutch hose puzzle

As for Power Steering, you cannot use these. PS gets a much larger AN6 line.

[HJSUSA]

Thank You Bimerok,
A few more

1. Do you think I should add a quick disconnect in the bottom line like in Vorshlag?
https://vorshlag-store.com/collectio...remote-bleeder
Any recomendations?

2. I got the Fuel regulator, how long is your fuel line going to the engine bay? And where did you get the 2 lines going back to the fuel tank and the adapters for it.

3. I am going to order FR1963 and FR1964 Flaming river u joints which are their chrome moly version, and the Borgeson 450024 shaft. I called Borgeson and they dont make anything for 17mm X 54 splines. So it has to be Flaming River, they also make a SS version but it only does up to 30 degrees, where as the chrome moly does up to 35 degrees and can handle more heat.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Thank You Bimerok,
A few more

1. Do you think I should add a quick disconnect in the bottom line like in Vorshlag?
https://vorshlag-store.com/collectio...remote-bleeder
Any recomendations?

2. I got the Fuel regulator, how long is your fuel line going to the engine bay? And where did you get the 2 lines going back to the fuel tank and the adapters for it.

3. I am going to order FR1963 and FR1964 Flaming river u joints which are their chrome moly version, and the Borgeson 450024 shaft. I called Borgeson and they dont make anything for 17mm X 54 splines. So it has to be Flaming River, they also make a SS version but it only does up to 30 degrees, where as the chrome moly does up to 35 degrees and can handle more heat.

Have you read through Bimerok's build threads? Pretty much everything you're asking is addressed in his threads.

LS1 to LS2 Build Thread

LS1 Build Thread

LS2 Build Thread


Tipsy

[HJSUSA]

Yes of course,
I've been reading. But some specific questions/answers are not there.
Just realized, I don't think I need the quick disconnect since I don't track.
His was a swap, so most of the fuel lines must have come with it.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Just realized, I don't think I need the quick disconnect since I don't track.
His was a swap, so most of the fuel lines must have come with it.

"...his was a swap." - Not sure I follow?

Bimerok installed an LS1 into his E36 and then later removed the LS1 in favor of an LS2. Both the orginal LS1 and the LS2 were bought as drop-outs. He also did an LS2 swap into his cousins M3.

Are you asking about the push-connect fittings to attach fuel line to the Corvette filter/regulator? To attach the BMW hard lines from the fuel tank to the regulator, most use Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 push-connect fittings and simply splice some quality injector line to bridge the two.

For the feed from the regulator to the fuel rail on the engine, there are several options. I'm using a Russell 640940 fitting on the output of the regulator along with 6AN PTFE braided fuel line, Summit SUM-250690B hose ends and a Russell 644123 Push-on fitting.

Hope this helps.

Tipsy

[HJSUSA]

Sorry, I meant he got a drop out. So it may have came with the regulator and lines, I don't know.
I have a new crate motor.
Thanks, almost there.

Tipsy, are you in Tampa? I may have to pay you a visit. My car is in Parrish, FL.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Tipsy, are you in Tampa? I may have to pay you a visit. My car is in Parrish, FL.

I'm about 90 minutes from you in New Port Richey (west of US-19). You're welcome anytime. I'm here through the weekend but I travel for a living. Just let me know.

Tipsy