Clutch kit suggestions for 95 M3? How many of you can recommend F1 racing kits?

[propcar]

It definitely revs quicker, easier to rev match, feels very good. I really didn't buy the flywheel for performance originally, it was more of a money choice (much cheaper than the OEM dual-mass), but I'm very pleased with it thus far. With A/C off, and idling I really don't notice the rattle much. With A/C on, it is more apparent. I'm not running the UUC mix they recommend to dampen the noise either, and it's not bad (and I'm usually very particular about rattles/creaks). All of that, and the trans I coupled it with has just over 200k miles.

Nice thanks for the info.

Is anybody running their Kevlar clutch kit $525 vs the stage 2 which is different 'carbonized Kevlar'. The standard Kevlar clutch kit description.

"The FX Racing Kevlar offers similar torque holding capacity to the FX Racing Stage 2 Clutch Kit, however, its life expectancy is increased 2-3 times with the Kevlar disc. Our Kevlar friction material is non-abrasive and doesn't score the mating surfaces. It features only slightly increased pedal pressure, significantly longer life than stock, and normal clutch feel during engagement and disengagement for the smoothest operation of any stage we offer."

[Crustashio]

how's the flywheel feel? Lighter rev? flywheel rattle at idle?

Rattles noticeably when warm, but I run D4 ATF and not that mix others use. I've had a few people comment on it. It doesn't bug me, but I am running the 3" BW race exhaust so my noise tolerance is quite high.

[ewrjontan]

So I think I am either going to go with the stage 2 clutch with chromoly flywheel or the sachs oem clutch with chromoly flywheel. I guess I am just worried about going with the stage 2 due to the potential glazing issues. Like i said, I don't plan to drive it on the street TOO often, but I feel like I might change my mind if it gets super cold/snowy and don't want to take the other car out. I guess there is potential problems if I were to "cook" the clutch as well. Is this really an issue at stock power levels?

Anyone else want to chime in on the glazing?

[ben4bama]

Turner says on their site the best clutch is the OE one

[propcar]

So I think I am either going to go with the stage 2 clutch with chromoly flywheel or the sachs oem clutch with chromoly flywheel. I guess I am just worried about going with the stage 2 due to the potential glazing issues. Like i said, I don't plan to drive it on the street TOO often, but I feel like I might change my mind if it gets super cold/snowy and don't want to take the other car out. I guess there is potential problems if I were to "cook" the clutch as well. Is this really an issue at stock power levels?

Anyone else want to chime in on the glazing?

So why not the Kevlar clutch kit which they say is more durable?

[ewrjontan]

So why not the Kevlar clutch kit which they say is more durable?

Didn't even notice them. Based on what it says on Gripforce, it does sound like the best option.

[ewrjontan]

So I ended up going with the f1/fx racing stage 2 kit with a Sachs pressure plate and have the tranny pulled and ready. Did you guys have to balance your flywheel/pressure plates? I can't seem to find a definitive answer.

[bmw328m52]

So I ended up going with the f1/fx racing stage 2 kit with a Sachs pressure plate and have the tranny pulled and ready. Did you guys have to balance your flywheel/pressure plates? I can't seem to find a definitive answer.

Balancing isn't necessary. But make sure you install that disk correctly. Last I heard long side towards flywheel

[ewrjontan]

Which side is the long side? I beleive I read that the springs on the clutch should face towards the flywheel and that it only fits one way.

edit: nvm, did some reading. long side faces flywheel. Gotcha!

[A ///Monster]

I have this kit with the organic disc. I've been happy with it until recently. I was rowing through the gears and when I engaged 3rd the clutch started slipping. I've got about 20k on this set up and most of it is highway miles. I'm guessing that I have glazed the friction surfaces because the clutch feels very strange now. It's about impossible to let the clutch out smoothly and I feel like my engagement point moves around making it even more difficult to release the clutch smoothly. No other ill effects and no more slipping but I'm not very pleased with how my car is drives right now.

[hotdish]

I have this kit with the organic disc. I've been happy with it until recently. I was rowing through the gears and when I engaged 3rd the clutch started slipping. I've got about 20k on this set up and most of it is highway miles. I'm guessing that I have glazed the friction surfaces because the clutch feels very strange now. It's about impossible to let the clutch out smoothly and I feel like my engagement point moves around making it even more difficult to release the clutch smoothly. No other ill effects and no more slipping but I'm not very pleased with how my car is drives right now.

Sounds like you could have a problem with air in your clutch line or a leaking master/slave cylinder.

[A ///Monster]

Sounds like you could have a problem with air in your clutch line or a leaking master/slave cylinder.

Possibly. However, I feel like my clutch engagement point is higher in the pedal travel than it used to be. I would think that air in the clutch line would move my engagement point closer to the floor because it would take extra travel to compress the vapor. I will have the car on stands this weekend to do some other work on it, I'll bleed the clutch line and see if I get bubbles.

I've had 3 or 4 leaking slave cylinders on this car before, this doesn't seem to act or feel the same way. Lesson learned, don't buy cheap slaves cylinders, OEM is the only way to go for slave cylinders.

[hotdish]

Possibly. However, I feel like my clutch engagement point is higher in the pedal travel than it used to be. I would think that air in the clutch line would move my engagement point closer to the floor because it would take extra travel to compress the vapor. I will have the car on stands this weekend to do some other work on it, I'll bleed the clutch line and see if I get bubbles.

I've had 3 or 4 leaking slave cylinders on this car before, this doesn't seem to act or feel the same way. Lesson learned, don't buy cheap slaves cylinders, OEM is the only way to go for slave cylinders.

I think I had that high engagement point plus clutch slippage when my e21 slave cylinder started sticking and breaking - it didn't let the clutch engage fully but could still disengage it

[ewrjontan]

So a little update. Finally got the car driving a couple of months ago and went to the track twice last week after breaking in the clutch. I drove for 500 miles (combination of normal daily driving including highway) and kept the car under 3.5-4K the whole time. Even took a six hour mostly-highway drive (180 miles to and from) after the initial 500 mile break in; clutch was doing great and was surprisingly quiet. I was under the impression that there would be plenty of clutch chatter. As a recap, I got the stage 2 gripforce/f1-racing clutch with a chromoly flywheel.

Anyways, my first track day was a pretty light session. Pushed the car pretty good but since I was still getting comfortable with the track as well as getting used to the car, I didn't push it THAT hard. My second track day I definitely pushed the car. Improved my lap times and had a blast.

After my last session, I noticed that the clutch is chattering pretty good now. When I press in the clutch pedal the sound goes away. The car seems to drive perfectly fine, or at least drove fine on my 45 min drive back home from the track. Haven't had a chance to take the car out again. Any ideas why this would happen or what it might be? Like I said, I expected some chatter since a lot of people with this clutch/flywheel setup have mentioned chatter but I didn't expect it to only become noticeable after almost a thousand miles of driving.

[NoLastName]

When oil in the transmission is hot the gearbox noises become more noticeable. It gets quite hot on track. Like you, years ago when I first installed a lightweight flywheel I thought something was wrong because the noise came and went. There's nothing wrong, it's just something you have to get used to. I hated the rattling so much on the street that I put a dual mass back in. After converting to 100% track use I didn't care about NVH and went back to a super light setup. I've posted this video clip before, but here's what mine sounds like when warmed up. This is an extreme case because it's a twin disc puck clutch in a gutted car - but any lightweight flywheel setup will make this type of rattling/tapping noise to some degree.

[ewrjontan]

oh geez, yeah mine didnt sound that bad but it's kind of what i figured. I was just surprised that it was still noisy after a long highway drive. I'm just running Redline D4 ATF, anything better out there to run?

[NoLastName]

I run a 50/50 mix of Redline D4 ATF and 75W140NS gear oil. Having said that, this mix is exactly what's heard in the video I posted... lol. It's quieter than straight D4 but not by much. You also have to be a little slower and more deliberate with shifts until the thicker oil warms up. Straight D4 shifts quicker.

UUC also suggests trying 50/50 Redline MT-90 + 75W140NS for hotter climates. I haven't tried that mix though. I just live with the idle noise. It's only apparent when not on track.

http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...uce_rattle.htm

[ewrjontan]

Oh nice, I'll try that the next time I change fluids

[TH3 Shifty]

i have the F1 stage 2 and the 14lb chromolly flywheel... had it on the S52 for 30k miles now it sits behind my S54 with 1k miles on it with no issues..

[Hova]

Balancing isn't necessary. But make sure you install that disk correctly. Last I heard long side towards flywheel

Just installed one last week. This is correct. Long side towards flywheel for the F1 Stage 2 Flywheel/Clutch.

[ewrjontan]

Sorry to revive this thread. I have been running my my stage 2 kit (with chromoly flywheel and sachs pressure plate) for about 8000 miles and I don't remember if this problem was occurring as soon as I did the install or it came up after a few miles.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t-a-stop-light

Any ideas?