Clutch kit suggestions for 95 M3? How many of you can recommend F1 racing kits?

[ewrjontan]

So come spring time, I will be no longer using my 95 M3 as a daily. It'll be mostly for recreational non-competitive track days. I am looking at clutch kits and really want to know how many of you all are running F1 racing kits?

I will most likely go with this bimmerworld kit (http://www.bimmerworld.com/E36-Z3-Li...t-Stage-I.html) but I am curious about the F1 racing kits (mostly interested in Stage 2). I wouldn't mind saving some money and going with them. It sounds like they are fine out of the box, but are they in terms of longevity? Do they last as long as any other kits?

Also, I don't plan on partaking in full-on drift events, as much as I would like to, however, I wouldn't mind being able to throw some clutch kicks into the mix every once in a while. Will the bimmerworld/F1 racing clutch kits be able to handle that just fine?

[rajicase]

I run a fx(same as f1) 6 puck stage 4 on my turbo m3; 465whp/418wtq.

Love it. Very street friendly, easy to get used to, affordable, etc.

By far the best clutch for the money, and it's just a good set up in general.

As far as longevity, I have had mine for 15k miles and it feels the same as day 1. Engagement point hasn't changed. And I beat on the m regularly, and daily drive it. So I can't say for sure, but I have a feeling it will last quite a while , especially if you are NA.

I'd skip the stage 2 and get the stage 4. It is 90% as smooth and easy to drive as stock. The only difference is when starting from a stop you need to give it a bit more throttle or it'll chatter a bit. Really a minot detail...

[m3bs]

Tracked my car with the stock original clutch for 14 years (97 events) with no issues.

[ewrjontan]

I run a fx(same as f1) 6 puck stage 4 on my turbo m3; 465whp/418wtq.

Love it. Very street friendly, easy to get used to, affordable, etc.

By far the best clutch for the money, and it's just a good set up in general.

As far as longevity, I have had mine for 15k miles and it feels the same as day 1. Engagement point hasn't changed. And I beat on the m regularly, and daily drive it. So I can't say for sure, but I have a feeling it will last quite a while , especially if you are NA.

I'd skip the stage 2 and get the stage 4. It is 90% as smooth and easy to drive as stock. The only difference is when starting from a stop you need to give it a bit more throttle or it'll chatter a bit. Really a minot detail...

Interesting. Are running the f1 racing flywheel as well? Chromoly or aluminum? Really at this point, I have no doubt that even the stock clutch/dm flywheel would be able to handle the track abuse...it seems to be more of a price issue now.

[mboor]

I have an F1 Stage 4 clutch kit in my E34. It's been holding up very well for the last 8000 miles behind the 300hp V8. There's better options out there, but these clutches are the best bang for the buck and seem to hold the power well. Overall im very happy with mine.

[rajicase]

Interesting. Are running the f1 racing flywheel as well? Chromoly or aluminum? Really at this point, I have no doubt that even the stock clutch/dm flywheel would be able to handle the track abuse...it seems to be more of a price issue now.

I'm running the factory dmf .

[Krohn27]

I'm running the FX 14.5lb chromoly flywheel with an OEM sachs clutch and OEM sachs pressure plate. I'm very pleased with it. My car is purely street driven, I've got 600 miles so far on the setup. (1995 m3)

[Milney325]

I run the F1 stage 2 kit with the 14lb chromoly flywheel, and have nothing bad to say about it. Driveability is close to stock, and it has held up to DD, HPDE, and Time Attack usage for over 3 years and probably 20k miles. I'd definitely recommend it.

[Butters Stoch]

I run the F1 stage 2 kit with the 14lb chromoly flywheel, and have nothing bad to say about it. Driveability is close to stock, and it has held up to DD, HPDE, and Time Attack usage for over 3 years and probably 20k miles. I'd definitely recommend it.

This would be my choice for a NA car.

[vaderTT76]

I ran a stage 4 fx with the aluminum fw. Little bit more chatter than the steel jb racing. Mine didn't come with the torque plate and I didn't want to gouge the pretty aluminum, so I called Aasco and got one from them. The steel fw doesn't need them though.

All in all, best bang for the buck.

[rajicase]

This would be my choice for a NA car.

NA...psssh

[ewrjontan]

Awesome guys! I appreciate everyones input; this is exactly what I wanted to hear. Is there any reason to really spend the extra money on the stage 4 vs just going stage 2? I don't plan on boosting anytime soon but if going stage 4 means that I can beat on it harder for longer (and clutch kick more often without feeling bad) then maybe I will do that.

[rajicase]

Awesome guys! I appreciate everyones input; this is exactly what I wanted to hear. Is there any reason to really spend the extra money on the stage 4 vs just going stage 2? I don't plan on boosting anytime soon but if going stage 4 means that I can beat on it harder for longer (and clutch kick more often without feeling bad) then maybe I will do that.

If you wanna do clutch kicks, get the 4. It has held up to my obscene numbers of clutch kicks with turby powers.

[Butters Stoch]

Stage 4 is ceramic disc. Its much more aggressive then the stage2. I believe stage 2 is kevlar? Those are much more drivable than ceramic discs.
If you don't have the power, and not drifting or drag racing, then I wouldn't buy the ceramic. But I agree w/ above, for very spirited driving, 4 is the way to go.

[ewrjontan]

So according to the gripforce tech support, the carbon/kevlar clutches (as found in the stage 2 kits) is not recommended for street cars (and stop and go traffic) due to glazing. Now, as said, this car will be retiring from daily duties but I can't say for sure if I will continue running it during the winter months or not. Is this really that big of an issue?

That being said, stage 4 seems to be cheaper on ebay so I will probably be going with that.

[bmw328m52]

^ I will be going the same route here shortly. Looks like the only difference btw stage 3/4 is that 3 is sprung and 4 is unsprung. I would think stage 3(sprung) would be better if running the fx chromoly flywheel. Stage 4 if you decide to run your stock dmf. I'm still confused on install of the clutch disk tho but I'll deal with it after purchase.

[Butters Stoch]

^ I will be going the same route here shortly. Looks like the only difference btw stage 3/4 is that 3 is sprung and 4 is unsprung. I would think stage 3(sprung) would be better if running the fx chromoly flywheel. Stage 4 if you decide to run your stock dmf. I'm still confused on install of the clutch disk tho but I'll deal with it after purchase.

Stage 3/4 is an on/off switch compared to a kevlar or organic. If your not FI I would not choose a stage 3/4. Kevlar is more than fine on the street.
Unless your making 350-495wtq don't buy the 3/4.

[MassiveWalrus]

Im running a factory clutch set, but im using a Sachs Sport ,Spring hub type with higher friction organic linings, Disc with a AASCO 12 lbs Aluminum flywheel.

[tmswell]

last m3, I had a Stage 2 Clutch kit from UUC and LOVED it.
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/light...utch-p194.aspx
also had the UUC EvoII SSK --paired well

[Crustashio]

My stage 2 + 14lb chromoly has held up to an untold number of autocross launches and lots of trackdays over the past 3 years. Clutch feels *better* than stock (had brand new stock clutch in the year before).

[mboor]

Stage 3/4 is an on/off switch compared to a kevlar or organic. If your not FI I would not choose a stage 3/4. Kevlar is more than fine on the street.
Unless your making 350-495wtq don't buy the 3/4.

I have a stage 4 FX in my v8 E34. It's definitely an on/off switch. Take off from a dead stop takes some getting used to, other than that it's been great so far.

[propcar]

My stage 2 + 14lb chromoly has held up to an untold number of autocross launches and lots of trackdays over the past 3 years. Clutch feels *better* than stock (had brand new stock clutch in the year before).

how's the flywheel feel? Lighter rev? flywheel rattle at idle?

[Milney325]

So according to the gripforce tech support, the carbon/kevlar clutches (as found in the stage 2 kits) is not recommended for street cars (and stop and go traffic) due to glazing. Now, as said, this car will be retiring from daily duties but I can't say for sure if I will continue running it during the winter months or not. Is this really that big of an issue?

That being said, stage 4 seems to be cheaper on ebay so I will probably be going with that.

The stage 2 is fine for the street, but you do have to be conscious of how you're using it. I've noticed that it will tolerate very little slippage/riding of the clutch before it starts to smell and slip, so I could see it glazing quite easily. Really this is only ever an issue if you're parallel parking on a steep hill or something. Otherwise just keep the revs low and release the clutch fairly quickly and it's no problem. I daily drove mine in stop and go traffic for a couple years with no issues.

[ewrjontan]

The stage 2 is fine for the street, but you do have to be conscious of how you're using it. I've noticed that it will tolerate very little slippage/riding of the clutch before it starts to smell and slip, so I could see it glazing quite easily. Really this is only ever an issue if you're parallel parking on a steep hill or something. Otherwise just keep the revs low and release the clutch fairly quickly and it's no problem. I daily drove mine in stop and go traffic for a couple years with no issues.

Good to hear!

[Krohn27]

how's the flywheel feel? Lighter rev? flywheel rattle at idle?

It definitely revs quicker, easier to rev match, feels very good. I really didn't buy the flywheel for performance originally, it was more of a money choice (much cheaper than the OEM dual-mass), but I'm very pleased with it thus far. With A/C off, and idling I really don't notice the rattle much. With A/C on, it is more apparent. I'm not running the UUC mix they recommend to dampen the noise either, and it's not bad (and I'm usually very particular about rattles/creaks). All of that, and the trans I coupled it with has just over 200k miles.